A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

....I thank you

If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that as a
router table ;-)

Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable guides
for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.

Ideal for rebates and the like.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

Here's the 'P'

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that as a
router table ;-)

Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable guides
for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.

One thought would be are the chuck bearings designed for side thrust?

--
*Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that as a
router table ;-)

Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable guides
for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.

One thought would be are the chuck bearings designed for side thrust?

No, they almost certainly are not.
Also, the RPM is very slow, which means that more will be taken off each
bite, and rigidity is even more important - which the drill press will
not have. This will cause very high stresses in the cutter, and may
cause bits to fly off.
Not to mention that the side forces may well cause the chuck attachment
to actually fall out - as these are usually morse tapers.

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
...I thank you

If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that
as a router table ;-)

Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable
guides for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.

Ideal for rebates and the like.

It does work,but as stated there's not enough speed although it will cut in
moderate small shavings(passes).

Ho well. ;-(

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that as
a
router table ;-)

Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable
guides
for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.

One thought would be are the chuck bearings designed for side thrust?

No, they almost certainly are not.
Also, the RPM is very slow, which means that more will be taken off each
bite, and rigidity is even more important - which the drill press will
not have. This will cause very high stresses in the cutter, and may
cause bits to fly off.
Not to mention that the side forces may well cause the chuck attachment
to actually fall out - as these are usually morse tapers.

========================
I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed is very
low compared with a conventional router good results can be achieved if you
take your time.

It won't work very well with the more complex bits (router bits) but for
routine work it's pretty good. I made a beautiful set of kitchen cupboard
cappings and footings (friezes??) a few weeks ago and only a light sanding
was needed before varnishing.

My table is a piece of Contiboard, 9" wide X 36" long. It's fixed to the
drill table with countersunk screws with nuts and washers underneath. I use
various bits of offcut timber to make expendable fences to suit different
jobs and occasionally for fine adjustment I use a bottle jack under the
table to raise it by small amounts.

Cic.


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A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

Cicero wrote:
snip
I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed is very
low compared with a conventional router good results can be achieved if you
take your time.

I may be wrong, but I suspect that your drill press is considerably more
rigid than most.

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Cicero wrote:
snip
I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed is
very
low compared with a conventional router good results can be achieved if
you
take your time.

I may be wrong, but I suspect that your drill press is considerably more
rigid than most.

===================
You're probably right. It's one of those crude Eastern European items that
came here about 20 years ago - built like the Iron Bridge but without the
refinements.

More significantly it's used by myself only for DIY and would probably not
last very long in a commercial environment if used continuously as an
overhead router. It was affordable at the time of buying and I'll keep it
until it gives up the ghost.

Cic.



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A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

Ian Stirling wrote:
Cicero wrote:
snip
I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed
is very low compared with a conventional router good results can be
achieved if you take your time.

I may be wrong, but I suspect that your drill press is considerably
more rigid than most.

How do you mean*more rigid* the one i bought from Aldi is heavy as the bulk
of it is made from steel&cast metal and is bolted to the melamine worktop.
granted the speed is nowhere near perfect for use in routing but it does do
some aspects of profiling with care.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

A bit of ingenuity on my part...
 

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
. uk...
Ian Stirling wrote:
Cicero wrote:
snip
I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed
is very low compared with a conventional router good results can be
achieved if you take your time.

I may be wrong, but I suspect that your drill press is considerably
more rigid than most.

How do you mean*more rigid* the one i bought from Aldi is heavy as the
bulk
of it is made from steel&cast metal and is bolted to the melamine worktop.
granted the speed is nowhere near perfect for use in routing but it does
do
some aspects of profiling with care.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




===========================
Basically it means just that there should be no flex in the pillar itself
or any free play between the pillar and the base or head. Remember that some
larger floor-standing drills are nearly 6 ' tall and any flex in the column
would make accurate work impossible.

If you're using a fairly cheap drill as an overhead router then the most
likely point of failure is whatever fixing is used to hold the head to the
column - probably just a small grub screw. This isn't likely to cause
problems when used as intended as a drill but the side forces caused by use
as an overhead router might cause the head to turn on the column. Just make
sure it's well tightened.

I would suggest that 'melamine' isn't really strong enough for any drill
press. Mine is fitted to a 6' x 2' bench with 2" solid wood top.

Cic.


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