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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky.
Pic 02 shows how the wall bends. The max gap
of this bend is half an inch. This picture was
taken with a 2M level resting on the lintel
at the top, and the 2nd row of blocks up at
the bottom. Picture 03 show how far out
of plumb the wall is.

The first three rows of bricks are at least
flat to each other if not quite plumb.
Placing the level flat on these first 3 rows
shows how much the thing bends... Over
an inch by the time it reaches the lintel.
See photo 04.

I haven't spoken to the boss man yet..
When I discussed it with the "foreman"
he said - no problem - will all disappear
when it gets plastered. Is that reasonable?
Is the plasterer going to agree with that?

Would appreciate comments.

Thanks,
Roy








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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

In article ,
RzB wrote:
I haven't spoken to the boss man yet..
When I discussed it with the "foreman"
he said - no problem - will all disappear
when it gets plastered. Is that reasonable?


Assuming it can be made good - and square - to the existing wall, yes.

Is the plasterer going to agree with that?


Hopefully the boss man will be supplying the plasterer, so it's his
problem. If you're doing the subbing yourself it might cost more than it
should.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

RzB wrote:
I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky.
Pic 02 shows how the wall bends. The max gap
of this bend is half an inch. This picture was
taken with a 2M level resting on the lintel
at the top, and the 2nd row of blocks up at
the bottom. Picture 03 show how far out
of plumb the wall is.

The first three rows of bricks are at least
flat to each other if not quite plumb.
Placing the level flat on these first 3 rows
shows how much the thing bends... Over
an inch by the time it reaches the lintel.
See photo 04.

I haven't spoken to the boss man yet..
When I discussed it with the "foreman"
he said - no problem - will all disappear
when it gets plastered. Is that reasonable?
Is the plasterer going to agree with that?

Would appreciate comments.

Thanks,
Roy


knock it down and get the builder to re do it properly. it's wayyyyy out of line.
it will cost no more than a bricky for a half day - £70 to £100 and if he can't
find a bricky or refuses to pay for it get your own in and knock it off the bill.

all you want is for the job to be as good as the money you're going to pay.
unless the rules have changed, walls should be built straight and plumb.

p.s. I'd like to see you get a door casing on, striaght, on pic 4 LOL ;-)



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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 09:51:46 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named
"RzB" randomly hit the keyboard and
produced:

I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky...
Over an inch by the time it reaches the lintel.


A wall that leans by more than a third of its thickness has its centre
of gravity outside the base of the wall, and is therefore inherently
unstable (aka, 'the middle third' rule). From my structures lectures
many, many years ago, I seem to recall that any load applied more than
one sixth of the wall's thickness away from the centre is classed as
'eccentrically loaded' and the ability of the wall to resist turning
moments needs to be calculated.

How have they managed to get it out of plumb anyway? They're building
off the existing foundation at the base, it looks like they're
building up to an existing wall line at the top, and they're tying in
to an existing wall at the side. Either the rest of the house is out
of plumb to begin with or they've managed a major breakthrough in
topographical mathematics. Any chance of posting a photo of the head
of this wall?

Get the Building Control Surveyor to take a look before it's
plastered, preferably with both you and the builder there.

PS. I'd question the lintel as well. It looks to be a 65mm high
pre-stressed one. These need the composite action of at least three
courses of block or bricks above before any substantial point load is
placed over. A 100mm x 150mm pre-cast would be better.

PPS. Why have they used Celcon Solar blocks when ordinary dense or
mediumweight blocks would have been cheaper and better?
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"
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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

RzB wrote:

When I discussed it with the "foreman"
he said - no problem - will all disappear
when it gets plastered.


Not if its plastered by the bloke who built it.................

Or was the bloke who built it 'plastered' at the time?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257




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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

Gents,
Many thanks for your responses. I'm loath
to put anymore work with them, so will be
looking elsewhere for a plasterer I think.

It may well be that the "boss" will just say -
not good enough and will do it again!
We shall see... I'll let you know.

He is only contracted to do the brickwork and
fit a liner. It will be interesting to see how he
manages that :-)

I wish I had done it all myself now! My wife
talked me out of it because I would have taken
longer! Hmmm...

Roy




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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

RzB wrote:
I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky.
Pic 02 shows how the wall bends. The max gap
of this bend is half an inch. This picture was
taken with a 2M level resting on the lintel
at the top, and the 2nd row of blocks up at
the bottom. Picture 03 show how far out
of plumb the wall is.

SNIP

Unfortunately, this is how the wall will have to stay.
If he'd been building an independant wall, not adjoining other existing
walls, it would probably have been straight and plumb, in this case however,
he had to build it so that it attatched to the existing walls, which are
also probably a mile out...that is to say, if he'd built it perfectly
straight, there would have been an inch step out to the existing brickwork.

HTH


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?


Unfortunately, this is how the wall will have to stay.
If he'd been building an independant wall, not adjoining other existing
walls, it would probably have been straight and plumb, in this case
however, he had to build it so that it attatched to the existing walls,
which are also probably a mile out...that is to say, if he'd built it
perfectly straight, there would have been an inch step out to the existing
brickwork.

HTH

No I don't think so... I have put a line against the
wall from end to end. At the top it all lines up perfectly.
At the bottom the new rows drift away the line..
I think the guy realised this after 3 courses and then
just bent the following courses back to meet up
with the lintel.

Thanks for your resonse..
Roy


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?


"RzB" wrote in message
...
I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky.
Pic 02 shows how the wall bends.


Is this bowed along the complete length of the wall or only at the end
underneath the dubiously sized lintel.

If so you can probably guess why.







-


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?


RzB wrote:

"... I wish I had done it all myself now! My wife
talked me out of it because I would have taken
longer! Hmmm... "

Oh how I can sympathise with that! I'm into the 13th week of a 4-6
week project. I know that I could have done a better job than the
builder and I would have saved myself lots of cash and aggravation. I
might have even got it finished earlier than the builder is going to
achieve.

Never again. If there's a next time, I'll be doing it myself and
refusing to listen to voices about it taking me too long!

Mike



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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?


RzB wrote:

Unfortunately, this is how the wall will have to stay.
If he'd been building an independant wall, not adjoining other existing
walls, it would probably have been straight and plumb, in this case
however, he had to build it so that it attatched to the existing walls,
which are also probably a mile out...that is to say, if he'd built it
perfectly straight, there would have been an inch step out to the existing
brickwork.


No I don't think so... I have put a line against the wall from end to end.
At the top it all lines up perfectly.At the bottom the new rows drift away the line..
I think the guy realised this after 3 courses and then just bent the following courses
back to meet up with the lintel.


I would have said from the last pic that the wall looked to be in
keeping with the other walls. If you are adamant that it is not then
have the wall knocked down and either tell the brickie to shove off or
get it right. It doesn't look too difficult a job which may be why the
boss let a crap brickie loose on it.

You could'nt do much worse yourself could you and have had the
conntentment of having done it yourself.

What newsreader are you using the lines in your post are very short.

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The message .com
from "MikeH" contains these words:

Oh how I can sympathise with that! I'm into the 13th week of a 4-6
week project.


I promised the wife the conservatory would be finished in time for her
birthday - which is next week.

Fortunately I never specified which birthday. I've now been cornered and
agreed to get it done before she's 40.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
ups.com...

RzB wrote:

== snip
I would have said from the last pic that the wall looked to be in
keeping with the other walls. If you are adamant that it is not then
have the wall knocked down and either tell the brickie to shove off or
get it right. It doesn't look too difficult a job which may be why the
boss let a crap brickie loose on it.

You could'nt do much worse yourself could you and have had the
conntentment of having done it yourself.

What newsreader are you using the lines in your post are very short.


Yes - I'm sure. I'm also absolutly certain that I could have done better
myself. I did a bricklaying evening class a few years ago and have
constructed
a couple of more difficult walls than this one. Plumb and straight. Just not
the
worlds fastest at it :-)

Apols about the line length - I'm using Outlook Express - what line length
would you recommend? I tend to use quite a short length to stop wrapping as
the s build up.

Thanks,
Roy





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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

MikeH wrote:
RzB wrote:

"... I wish I had done it all myself now! My wife
talked me out of it because I would have taken
longer! Hmmm... "

Oh how I can sympathise with that! I'm into the 13th week of a 4-6
week project. I know that I could have done a better job than the
builder and I would have saved myself lots of cash and aggravation. I
might have even got it finished earlier than the builder is going to
achieve.


Never again. If there's a next time, I'll be doing it myself and
refusing to listen to voices about it taking me too long!


Pah - that's nothing, I'm in the fifth year of an 8-week project....
Oh.... you mean you have a tradesman in the 13th week of a 4-6 week
project. Ahem.

David
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RzB wrote:
I have had a builder move a door opening.
See picture 01 on...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

Unfortunately the wall is a little wonky.
Pic 02 shows how the wall bends. The max gap
of this bend is half an inch. This picture was
taken with a 2M level resting on the lintel
at the top, and the 2nd row of blocks up at
the bottom. Picture 03 show how far out
of plumb the wall is.

The first three rows of bricks are at least
flat to each other if not quite plumb.
Placing the level flat on these first 3 rows
shows how much the thing bends... Over
an inch by the time it reaches the lintel.
See photo 04.

I haven't spoken to the boss man yet..
When I discussed it with the "foreman"
he said - no problem - will all disappear
when it gets plastered. Is that reasonable?
Is the plasterer going to agree with that?

Would appreciate comments.

Thanks,
Roy


Unfortunately this looks like a no win situation. You have not shown
the level against the existing brick wall so we do not know what the
bricky was up against. It certainely looks as if the existing wall was
out of plumb and he has had to follow suit. Had he built it perfectly
plumb and it missed the top wall you would have been slating him for
not following suit. the bricky has followed the existing wall and now
it is not plumb. Okay granted there is a bend in the wall but it could
be overcome by the plasterer. Again we don't know if the bricky strung
it through side to side and the wall is merely following what exists.
If the wall is not load bearing and the concrete lintel is spanning the
opening then it would not concern me that it is only supporting one or
two rows of thermalite blocks, there is very little weight there.
Overall it seems that the bricky has done a fair job with what he had
to contend with, perhaps could have done better with regards the bend.
Please try and be fair with him. I am not suggesting that you are, but
it is horrible when a customer starts picking fault with the work to
avoid paying or achieve discounts.

Legin



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Unfortunately this looks like a no win situation. You have not shown
the level against the existing brick wall so we do not know what the
bricky was up against. It certainely looks as if the existing wall was
out of plumb and he has had to follow suit. Had he built it perfectly
plumb and it missed the top wall you would have been slating him for
not following suit. the bricky has followed the existing wall and now
it is not plumb. Okay granted there is a bend in the wall but it could
be overcome by the plasterer. Again we don't know if the bricky strung
it through side to side and the wall is merely following what exists.
If the wall is not load bearing and the concrete lintel is spanning the
opening then it would not concern me that it is only supporting one or
two rows of thermalite blocks, there is very little weight there.
Overall it seems that the bricky has done a fair job with what he had
to contend with, perhaps could have done better with regards the bend.
Please try and be fair with him. I am not suggesting that you are, but
it is horrible when a customer starts picking fault with the work to
avoid paying or achieve discounts.

Legin


Legin,
No no - it's not like that at all... I hate conflict and I couldn't agree
more
about "picking fault just to haggle on price". Not my style at all and
not the case here at all. I already slipped the brickie a tenner at the end
of
a very hot day for a beer as a thank you for the effort. He worked very
hard -
there was a fair bit of demolition to be done. That was before I noticed
the problem.

It's quiet difficult to explain what has happened here but I'm totally
convinced this wall could be plumb/straight. The brickie
has gone off line with the bottom courses as it approaches the new
opening. Then he has attempted to pull it back with upper courses
to tie into the lintel. If you understand what I mean.

I think it's going to be very difficult to fit a lining properly. This needs
to be plumb/square as I have to install double doors in this gap.

I am waiting for plasterers to come and give me quotes in the next few
days. It will be interesting to see if they feel they can "make it right".
If they can then no problem.. However I have my doubts.

Also I agree about the size of the lintel - there is very little weight on
it.
My main concern is the hanging of the doors and the plastering.

I'm hoping the boss man will come in and see that it's not quite right.
If he doesn't, then my guess is that I will pay up, put it down to
experience,
knock it down and redo it myself :-) Ho hum...

Many thanks for your response.

Roy
















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Legin,

Apols for the duff line lengths - having a bit of a
problem with that today..

Also - thanks for your post - It made me go back
and check everything.... It really is quite a complex
problem, although you wouldn't think so from
first appearances.

Anyway - it will be interesting to see what the
boss man will say - currently he is imobile with
a back injury (not nice) - so it will have to wait
for a bit.

Thanks for your help.
Roy



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RzB wrote:
Legin,

Apols for the duff line lengths - having a bit of a
problem with that today..

Also - thanks for your post - It made me go back
and check everything.... It really is quite a complex
problem, although you wouldn't think so from
first appearances.

Anyway - it will be interesting to see what the
boss man will say - currently he is imobile with
a back injury (not nice) - so it will have to wait
for a bit.


get some acro's on monday, take the wall down, replace the lintel, rebuild the wall
with the correct blocks only vertical this time, with no curves, as it ought to be.

knock the materials and your labour costs off the 'builders' bill + 10% for being cheeky.

you have photographic evidence of the wall, the builder doesn't.



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RzB wrote:

Legin,
No no - it's not like that at all... I hate conflict and I couldn't agree
more
about "picking fault just to haggle on price". Not my style at all and
not the case here at all. I already slipped the brickie a tenner at the end
of
a very hot day for a beer as a thank you for the effort. He worked very
hard -
there was a fair bit of demolition to be done. That was before I noticed
the problem.


My apologies then for even thinking that you may have been trying to
avoid paying.

It's quiet difficult to explain what has happened here but I'm totally
convinced this wall could be plumb/straight. The brickie
has gone off line with the bottom courses as it approaches the new
opening. Then he has attempted to pull it back with upper courses
to tie into the lintel. If you understand what I mean.


Has he started building it plumb and then had to bend it in to the
existing?

I think it's going to be very difficult to fit a lining properly. This needs
to be plumb/square as I have to install double doors in this gap.

I am waiting for plasterers to come and give me quotes in the next few
days. It will be interesting to see if they feel they can "make it right".
If they can then no problem.. However I have my doubts.


Door linings come 5 and a quater inch wide. Block = 4 inch. You have 1
quater to
play with. Okay the plaster may be a bit thinner one side in the middle
and a bit fatter the other side but more than do able. As I have said
the bend could have been better but given that I have not seen the
existing walls then it is difficult to comment further. Your pic 1
shows that the block work is in line with the existing wall so may be
that it bellied as well? Don't get me wrong here there are definately
some botch it merchants out there and half an inch is pushing the
limits but you would expect the blockwork to be within a quater here
and there. I don't mean to sound rough but I have worked for engineers
who expect you to work to the nearest thou. Knowing that you are going
to plaster the blockwork you don't have to be so precise.

Also I agree about the size of the lintel - there is very little weight on
it.
My main concern is the hanging of the doors and the plastering.

I'm hoping the boss man will come in and see that it's not quite right.
If he doesn't, then my guess is that I will pay up, put it down to
experience,
knock it down and redo it myself :-) Ho hum...


I think that you will find that this is unnecessary. Filling the hollow
with extra plaster, no problem. If the blockwork is protruding too much
the other side then a duff saw will soon cut it back. At most it is
only half inch. Given earlier comments on door linings you can get
round this.
Your next problem however is if the carpenter fits the door frame to
the opening it may be off plumb. However again he can only go with what
is there.

Many thanks for your response.

Roy


Good luck and I do hope all goes well.

Legin

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.. wrote:
get some acro's on monday, take the wall down, replace the lintel, rebuild the wall
with the correct blocks only vertical this time, with no curves, as it ought to be.


Great advice. The wall will be level at the bottom but will jut out
half/ three quaters of an inch at the top and sides, where it fails to
meet the existing walls. I have worked on old houses where they have
been 1 and half inches out floor to ceiling. Stood for three hundred
years as well although hopefully plumb when first built!

knock the materials and your labour costs off the 'builders' bill + 10% for being cheeky.


Point out your concerns and hopefully reach agreement. If the builder
is confident that the finished job will be alright then make it a
condition that you will only pay if it looks okay when finished.
Perhaps consider a different builder next time.

you have photographic evidence of the wall, the builder doesn't.


The evidence shows a new wall tied into an existing wall. The new wall
is out of plumb, so the old wall must be out of plumb. There is a bend
in the new wall, but we dont see the level against the existing wall so
it is dificult to comment further. I think enough doubt exists for any
judge to question what may or not have happened.
The builder is confident that the plastering will finish the job okay,
why not give him the chance.

Legin



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RzB wrote:
.... Anyway - it will be interesting to see what the
boss man will say - currently he is imobile with
a back injury (not nice) - so it will have to wait
for a bit.


Mmmm. Having 'been there', as they say, I wouldn't wish a back injury
on anyone. However, there are people who will fabricate any sort of
excuse in order to avoid having to admit to a screw-up and deal with
it. Some folk just think it's easier (and acceptable) to let the
customer stew and hope that the problem will somehow go away in the
meantime.

I hate confrontation too, and I strongly believe in treating others
fairly - like paying very promptly for work done. But this shouldn't
be a one-sided affair. You should always be able to expect a decent
job from people working on your behalf. If you don't get it, there are
times that you just have to remind others who's the customer in the
relationship and just press hard until you receive the treatment and
standard of job to which you are entitled.

Whoops - I'm thinking about personal experiences and have drifted onto
a soap-box. Sorry. Rant over.

Mike

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"legin" wrote in
message
ups.com...

RzB wrote:

Legin,

== clip

It's quiet difficult to explain what has happened
here but I'm totally
convinced this wall could be plumb/straight. The
brickie
has gone off line with the bottom courses as it
approaches the new
opening. Then he has attempted to pull it back with
upper courses
to tie into the lintel. If you understand what I
mean.


Has he started building it plumb and then had to bend
it in to the
existing?

I think it's going to be very difficult to fit a
lining properly. This needs
to be plumb/square as I have to install double doors
in this gap.

I am waiting for plasterers to come and give me
quotes in the next few
days. It will be interesting to see if they feel
they can "make it right".
If they can then no problem.. However I have my
doubts.


Door linings come 5 and a quater inch wide. Block = 4
inch. You have 1
quater to
play with. Okay the plaster may be a bit thinner one
side in the middle
and a bit fatter the other side but more than do
able. As I have said
the bend could have been better but given that I have
not seen the
existing walls then it is difficult to comment
further. Your pic 1
shows that the block work is in line with the
existing wall so may be
that it bellied as well? Don't get me wrong here
there are definately
some botch it merchants out there and half an inch is
pushing the
limits but you would expect the blockwork to be
within a quater here
and there. I don't mean to sound rough but I have
worked for engineers
who expect you to work to the nearest thou. Knowing
that you are going
to plaster the blockwork you don't have to be so
precise.

Also I agree about the size of the lintel - there is
very little weight on
it.
My main concern is the hanging of the doors and the
plastering.

I'm hoping the boss man will come in and see that
it's not quite right.
If he doesn't, then my guess is that I will pay up,
put it down to
experience,
knock it down and redo it myself :-) Ho hum...


I think that you will find that this is unnecessary.
Filling the hollow
with extra plaster, no problem. If the blockwork is
protruding too much
the other side then a duff saw will soon cut it back.
At most it is
only half inch. Given earlier comments on door
linings you can get
round this.
Your next problem however is if the carpenter fits
the door frame to
the opening it may be off plumb. However again he can
only go with what
is there.

Many thanks for your response.

Roy


Good luck and I do hope all goes well.

Legin


Legin,

Things move fast round 'ere... I have just had a
plasterer arrive
to view prior to quoting. The plastering job is much
much larger
than just this wall. Probably about 5 days total..

Anyway - of the wall.. In answer to the question "What
would you
do if it were your wall?".. his response was (without
hesitation) -
"knock it down and do it again". In response to the
question
"can you fix the problem at the plastering stage?" his
response was -
"hmmm.. not sure - would like to see it once the lining
is fitted".

Obviously I have to balance the plasterer/bricklayer
thing here :-)
It was good that he didn't say outright "No - not
possible to fix".

BTW - I'm the carpenter at the end of the line who has
to hang the
doors :-) Scary... :-)

Re what the brickie has done... See new diagram on..

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

This is an attempt to explain what I think has
happened.
It's an exageration and not the complete story but
hopefully
you can get a better understanding of what I'm
saying...

The lintel was placed in position before any blocks
were laid,
using Acro props etc... Then the wall was built up
towards
the new opening. However the bottom courses go away
from the
"line" as it get towards the new opening. God only
knows why!
Then to bring it back on course the the upper courses
were bent
over to meet the lintel. Yes?

Thanks,
Roy




























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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

Arghhhhh,....!!!! I hate line lengths!!!
Apols...
Roy


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

"MikeH" wrote in message
oups.com...

RzB wrote:
.... Anyway - it will be interesting to see what the
boss man will say - currently he is imobile with
a back injury (not nice) - so it will have to wait
for a bit.


Mmmm. Having 'been there', as they say, I wouldn't wish a back injury
on anyone. However, there are people who will fabricate any sort of
excuse in order to avoid having to admit to a screw-up and deal with
it. Some folk just think it's easier (and acceptable) to let the
customer stew and hope that the problem will somehow go away in the
meantime.

I hate confrontation too, and I strongly believe in treating others
fairly - like paying very promptly for work done. But this shouldn't
be a one-sided affair. You should always be able to expect a decent
job from people working on your behalf. If you don't get it, there are
times that you just have to remind others who's the customer in the
relationship and just press hard until you receive the treatment and
standard of job to which you are entitled.

Whoops - I'm thinking about personal experiences and have drifted onto
a soap-box. Sorry. Rant over.

Mike


Mike,
I think the back problem is real... This guy has been thoroughly reliable
so far!!

Yes I do agree with what you say. I too will pay on the button - but
would like things done properly.

I'm sure it will all come out OK in the end... :-)
Roy


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?



Legin,

Things move fast round 'ere... I have just had a
plasterer arrive
to view prior to quoting. The plastering job is much
much larger
than just this wall. Probably about 5 days total..

Anyway - of the wall.. In answer to the question "What
would you
do if it were your wall?".. his response was (without
hesitation) -
"knock it down and do it again". In response to the
question
"can you fix the problem at the plastering stage?" his
response was -
"hmmm.. not sure - would like to see it once the lining
is fitted".

Obviously I have to balance the plasterer/bricklayer
thing here :-)
It was good that he didn't say outright "No - not
possible to fix".

BTW - I'm the carpenter at the end of the line who has
to hang the
doors :-) Scary... :-)

Re what the brickie has done... See new diagram on..

www.gillandroy.com/diy/banana

This is an attempt to explain what I think has
happened.
It's an exageration and not the complete story but
hopefully
you can get a better understanding of what I'm
saying...

The lintel was placed in position before any blocks
were laid,
using Acro props etc... Then the wall was built up
towards
the new opening. However the bottom courses go away
from the
"line" as it get towards the new opening. God only
knows why!
Then to bring it back on course the the upper courses
were bent
over to meet the lintel. Yes?

Thanks,
Roy


Seems like he has been a bit lax then.
Given that the blocks that are attatched to what was the existing wall
are presumed to be okay, why not offer a compromise. Ask them to take
down and rebuild the section where the door frame is going.
If it was my job I could get round this. As a carpenter you must be
used to fixing frames to brick work/ block work that is off plumb or a
bit skewed.
All the best
Legin



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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

legin wrote:
. wrote:
get some acro's on monday, take the wall down, replace the lintel,
rebuild the wall
with the correct blocks only vertical this time, with no curves, as
it ought to be.


Great advice.


thanks !

snip bollix



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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

legin wrote:

used to fixing frames to brick work/ block work that is off plumb or a
bit skewed.


because of dodgy blockwork by 'builders', no doubt.





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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

Seems like he has been a bit lax then.
Given that the blocks that are attatched to what was the existing wall
are presumed to be okay, why not offer a compromise. Ask them to take
down and rebuild the section where the door frame is going.
If it was my job I could get round this. As a carpenter you must be
used to fixing frames to brick work/ block work that is off plumb or a
bit skewed.
All the best
Legin


Yes good idea for a compromise... If there needs to
be bends etc in the wall, anywhere would be better
than at the door frame.

Hmm - well I'm not a carpenter by trade... but yes -
I can handle things that are off plumb - nothing is
ever perfect! However there are limits :-)

I'm sure it will all get fixed in the end !!

Thanks for your help,
Roy


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

Well how's this for a happy ending...

I spoke to the boss man over the weekend and explained
that I was a bit concerned with this part of the job, and
that when his back was ok we needed to discuss.

First thing this morning the doorbell rings and the brickie
is standing on the doorstep. Takes a look, agrees it not right.
He has taken half of the blocks down and is currently
rebuilding!

Impressive or what!!!!

Roy


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Default Builders banana wall - OK or not?

On 2006-07-24 10:13:12 +0100, "RzB" said:

Well how's this for a happy ending...

I spoke to the boss man over the weekend and explained
that I was a bit concerned with this part of the job, and
that when his back was ok we needed to discuss.

First thing this morning the doorbell rings and the brickie
is standing on the doorstep. Takes a look, agrees it not right.
He has taken half of the blocks down and is currently
rebuilding!

Impressive or what!!!!

Roy


Expected, I would have thought :-)


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