Scratches on brushed stainless steel
I've found some scratches/marks which run across the 'grain' on our
brushed stainless steel hob. Is there a simple way to remove them that won't leave it looking worse? TIA -- Frank (Beware of spam trap - remove the negative) |
Scratches on brushed stainless steel
F wrote:
I've found some scratches/marks which run across the 'grain' on our brushed stainless steel hob. Is there a simple way to remove them that won't leave it looking worse? TIA Not really. |
Scratches on brushed stainless steel
On 02/06/2006 13:15 The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Not really. Two words I didn't really want to hear! Ho, hum. -- Frank (Beware of spam trap - remove the negative) |
Scratches on brushed stainless steel
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 13:09:45 +0100, F wrote:
I've found some scratches/marks which run across the 'grain' on our brushed stainless steel hob. Is there a simple way to remove them that won't leave it looking worse? Garryflex / Roebuck abrasive blocks in a couple of different grades. Won't take long, so long as you can match the overall shininess of the main hob (otherwise you have to do the lot!). Practice round the back first and see how you manage for matching the finish. As always, start coarse and work fine - don't change grade until you really are done and ready, otherwise you just get the same scratches with a beautifully polish on them. If they're deep, then you might have trouble getting them out. Burnishing first, then buffing over won't remove them, but it will make them much less obvious. As it's a kitchen, remember to passive the clean steel after finishing it, otherwise you'll get staining. Use a solution of citric acid (homebrew shop) and Google. |
Scratches on brushed stainless steel
On 02/06/2006 19:01 Andy Dingley wrote:
[snip useful advice - thanks] As it's a kitchen, remember to passive the clean steel after finishing it, otherwise you'll get staining. Use a solution of citric acid (homebrew shop) and Google. A Google for 'passive stainless steel citric acid kitchen' produced lots of industrial references: 'Passivation should only be performed by trained, experienced technicians familiar with the potential hazards associated with the science. Safety practices must be fully understood when handling passivation chemicals. Special boots, gloves, aprons and other safety equipment must be used'. Can just imagine it in the kitchen! Any chance of an appropriate URL? -- Frank (Beware of spam trap - remove the negative) |
Scratches on brushed stainless steel
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 19:34:41 +0100, F wrote:
A Google for 'passive stainless steel citric acid kitchen' produced lots of industrial references: Sorry, typo on my part - should have been "passivate". You can do it with citric acid, or with hydrofluoric acid. Don't use hydrofluoric, it's ****ing toxic in ways you can't even imagine. Nitric acid might be used, be is too likely to discolour it with iron salts, unless you're in a careful production environment. Citric acid is easy though, and safe. For small stuff, throw it in a pan of warm citric acid and simmer it for half an hour. For sheetmetal, wipe it over with a spongeful of warmed, 10% (by weight) citric acid solution, as hot as you can handle in rubber gloves. Leave it for half an hour, then rinse. If you can warm the metalwork up first (hot air gun?) then it's likely to give a better result, but you only need it "uncomfortably hand hot", not glowing. Degrease _throughly_ beforehand, by giving it a good "kitchen scrubbing", doing your refinishing and polishing, then wiping it down carefully with isopropanol or acetone on kitchen paper towels (standard workshop solvents, shouldn't be too hard to find). The theory http://www.delstar.com/passivating.htm http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/100304.html Practice is probably best described on www.finishing.com Citrisurf is supposed to be the dead easy improved version. http://www.stellarsolutions.net/wave.htm |
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