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Mike Halmarack
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

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Ian Stirling
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

Mike Halmarack ... wrote:
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?


It's a fine balance.
You really, really don't want to get rotted floors, due to condensation.

Water comes out of the ground as vapour - if the underfloor is not
properly sealed, and from the top, though the floor.
If it then condenses, when it hits the cold underfloor void, bad things
happen.
I wonder how much power heat recovering vent bricks would save...
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Mike Halmarack
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 13:17:26 +0100, wrote:

On 15 Apr,
Ian Stirling wrote:

Mike Halmarack ... wrote:
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?


It's a fine balance.
You really, really don't want to get rotted floors, due to condensation.

Water comes out of the ground as vapour - if the underfloor is not
properly sealed, and from the top, though the floor.
If it then condenses, when it hits the cold underfloor void, bad things
happen.
I wonder how much power heat recovering vent bricks would save...


He's talking abou a first floor, which will have a ceiling below. These are
rarely ventilated.


This one has 2 louvered vents in the east facing wall at 1st floor
level. the other 3 walls have none. This may be enough to provide the
stiff breeze passing through but it could also be coming from
elsewhere, like up the cavity. But with this kind of timber framed
construction with a brick skin outside I think there's continuous
boarding between the frame and the cavity.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

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Mark
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.


Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
...
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?


Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"



-

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Mike Halmarack
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:03:54 GMT, "Mark" wrote:


Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
.. .
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?


Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"


Thanks for the cautionary tips. Maybe there's a moderated air flow
achievable the will have the required anti-damp damp effect, without
carrying away quite so much heat. Perhaps an adjustable louvered vent
in place of the fixed louvres.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.


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Tournifreak
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.


Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:03:54 GMT, "Mark" wrote:


Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
.. .
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?


Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"


Thanks for the cautionary tips. Maybe there's a moderated air flow
achievable the will have the required anti-damp damp effect, without
carrying away quite so much heat. Perhaps an adjustable louvered vent
in place of the fixed louvres.


I don't get it. Very few houses have airbricks at first floor level.
But a few do around this area. So why is it necessary for some houses
and not for others? Was it just a short-lived idea sometime in the
early 20th century? I'm sure someone on here knows...

Jon.

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The Natural Philosopher
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

Tournifreak wrote:
Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:03:54 GMT, "Mark" wrote:

Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
...
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?
Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"

Thanks for the cautionary tips. Maybe there's a moderated air flow
achievable the will have the required anti-damp damp effect, without
carrying away quite so much heat. Perhaps an adjustable louvered vent
in place of the fixed louvres.


I don't get it. Very few houses have airbricks at first floor level.
But a few do around this area. So why is it necessary for some houses
and not for others? Was it just a short-lived idea sometime in the
early 20th century? I'm sure someone on here knows...

Jon.

What do you mean by 'first floor level

In US terms thats ground floor level

If you are talking in terms of between lower and upper storeys, i.e.
well above ground, there is no point in ventilating at that level unless
there is some specific unique damp problem.

Cavity walls need some venting allegedly, but that need not extend
inside the floor structure.

chances are the joist are laid into the inner wall leaf and simply have
random gaps around them. Plug the gaps, or stuff the floor with rockwool.

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Mike Halmarack
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

On 15 Apr 2006 09:08:11 -0700, "Tournifreak"
wrote:


Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:03:54 GMT, "Mark" wrote:


Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
.. .
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?

Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"


Thanks for the cautionary tips. Maybe there's a moderated air flow
achievable the will have the required anti-damp damp effect, without
carrying away quite so much heat. Perhaps an adjustable louvered vent
in place of the fixed louvres.


I don't get it. Very few houses have airbricks at first floor level.


I must check, it'll give me an excuse to get out more. :-)

But a few do around this area. So why is it necessary for some houses
and not for others? Was it just a short-lived idea sometime in the
early 20th century? I'm sure someone on here knows...

Jon.


I can currently only guess at the structure of this 1984 built house
and I'm not going to take it apart to any great extent to check. Other
than membranes etc. it seems to be a box with plywood sides surrounded
by a cavity, then a single skin of bricks. Just below the ground
floor, on two sides of the house there are 6 air vents which are
ducted through the cavity and an inner skin of blocks. These ventilate
the under floor space including the exposed floor joists of the ground
floor. By doing this, they don't seem to be ventilating the cavity.

The 2 air vents at 1st floor level may not be ducted, so they might
only be ventilating the cavity directly.

The first floor is a multi-compartment box, with floorboards above and
plasterboard below the compartments are formed by the floor joists
which aren't likely to be weakened much by cut out vents. The joist
ends finish at a timber wall plate of the same size to complete the
box effect. So where the stiff breeze comes from I still don't know
for sure.

I don't know if the
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.
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Mike Halmarack
 
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Default Unlagged pipes in suspended timber 1st floor.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 06:20:34 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Tournifreak wrote:
Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:03:54 GMT, "Mark" wrote:

Mike Halmarack ... wrote in message
...
To lag these pipes properly would mean pulling up a lot of
floorboards.
Does there really need to be quite so many air bricks allowing such a
cold draught in a floor of this type, at this level?
Yes, unless you want to kill your house and yourself
Google "blocked air bricks" and "health risk damp spores"
Thanks for the cautionary tips. Maybe there's a moderated air flow
achievable the will have the required anti-damp damp effect, without
carrying away quite so much heat. Perhaps an adjustable louvered vent
in place of the fixed louvres.


I don't get it. Very few houses have airbricks at first floor level.
But a few do around this area. So why is it necessary for some houses
and not for others? Was it just a short-lived idea sometime in the
early 20th century? I'm sure someone on here knows...

Jon.

What do you mean by 'first floor level

In US terms thats ground floor level


I was hoping that in the UK it would mean the floor above the ground
floor.

If you are talking in terms of between lower and upper storeys, i.e.
well above ground, there is no point in ventilating at that level unless
there is some specific unique damp problem.


There isn't one of those.


Cavity walls need some venting allegedly, but that need not extend
inside the floor structure.


That's what I thought

chances are the joist are laid into the inner wall leaf and simply have
random gaps around them.


There may be gaps somewhere but where I can see them the joist ends
are close jointed to a timber wall plate, which, if countinuous, would
pretty much air seal them.

Plug the gaps, or stuff the floor with rockwool.


If I was happy to pull up the tongue and groove flooring to do that
I'd have no real problem there. i realise that I wouldn't have to pull
it all up but I'd like to keep damage to the structure to a minimum.

I've pulled up some boards for plumbing purposes though and modified
the method of cutting the tongues that I read on this NG, so maybe
I'll mention it in another thread.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.
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