Plastic ch plumbing
 

Has anyone used this piping?

Mary

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mary Fisher wrote:

Has anyone used this piping?

Mary

Yes, I used it when I converted part of the garage into a downstairs
bathroom for an elderly relative, and needed to hook and additional radiator
into the CH system.

Make sure you use barrier pipe - some makes, such as Hep2o come in 2
versions, only one of which is suitable for CH systems. You mustn't use
plastic pipe within one metre of the boiler. I prefer a short length of
copper on each radiator valve too, joining onto plastic under the floor. If
you have horizontal runs, it is as well to support the pipe over the entire
run to prevent it sagging - which might encourage air-locks to form.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Plastic ch plumbing
 

Mary Fisher wrote:

Has anyone used this piping?

Yup, used speedfit many times for CH mods.

--
Cheers,

John.

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Plastic ch plumbing
 

you can use it but as Roger advised it looks terrible because it sags
with the heat if on a skirting board run. copper is the much better
option even though a bit more expensive.
I had to replace a whole line of pipes because it looked so bad and
saggy.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

you can use it but as Roger advised it looks terrible because it sags
with the heat if on a skirting board run. copper is the much better
option even though a bit more expensive.
I had to replace a whole line of pipes because it looked so bad and
saggy.

Although I didn't explicitly say so, I wouldn't use it anywhere where it
*shows* - but it's fine for threading through awkward places where getting a
straight run of copper in would be very difficult.

My comment about sagging was more to do with avoiding airlocks rather than
appearance. For a horizontal run under the floor, I would support it along
its full length on pieces of timber so that it *can't* sag.

--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Please reply to newsgroup.
Reply address IS valid, but not regularly monitored.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:08:36 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:

Make sure you use barrier pipe - some makes, such as Hep2o come in 2
versions, only one of which is suitable for CH systems.

.... unless you have inhibitor in your system. The amount of air absorbed
through non-barrier pipe is probably still vastly smaller than from the
header tank in an open vented system.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

Roger Mills wrote:

Although I didn't explicitly say so, I wouldn't use it anywhere where it
*shows* - but it's fine for threading through awkward places where getting a
straight run of copper in would be very difficult.

Yup, and it is also very handy where you need to bury the stuff in
plaster or concrete.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Plastic ch plumbing
 

"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
t...
Has anyone used this piping?

Mary

Best only use in awkward spots, where threading is useful. Don't use the
pushfit fitting as they tend to be problematic. use brass compression
fitting, and they even cost less.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

"John Stumbles" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:08:36 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:

Make sure you use barrier pipe - some makes, such as Hep2o come in 2
versions, only one of which is suitable for CH systems.

.... unless you have inhibitor in your system. The amount of air absorbed
through non-barrier pipe is probably still vastly smaller than from the
header tank in an open vented system.

British Gas will not take on a system with non-barrier pipe.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

you can use it but as Roger advised it looks terrible because it sags
with the heat if on a skirting board run. copper is the much better
option even though a bit more expensive.
I had to replace a whole line of pipes because it looked so bad and
saggy.

Although I didn't explicitly say so, I wouldn't use it anywhere where it
*shows* - but it's fine for threading through awkward places where getting a
straight run of copper in would be very difficult.


Yep, I used Hep2O in our old Leeds house when we redid the CH. Very
happy with it- of course not where it shows though (or at least where
you would care) I found a slightly better finish was had by using copper
for the drops from the rad valves through the floor.

My comment about sagging was more to do with avoiding airlocks rather than
appearance. For a horizontal run under the floor, I would support it along
its full length on pieces of timber so that it *can't* sag.

I didn't find that necessary. Fixing to the side of joists, or at each
joist crossing was enough.
--
Chris French

Plastic ch plumbing
 

"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
t...
Has anyone used this piping?

My whole house both CH and water is done in Osmagold pushfit plastic, except
the boiler to HW tank and pipework to loft which is copper. If you read the
Osmagold documentation bits near the boiler etc need to be in copper in case
the boiler faults and starts blowing superheated water around the pipework.
Osmagold is at www.wavin.co.uk. I got all my new bits from local Travis
Perkins.

Just added two kick space heaters on the CH system this weekend. Popped in a
couple of 15mm T's, ran 15mm pipe down wall behind plaster board, luckily
builders used very generous dot and daubs to attach the kitchen plaster
board, connected to heaters, refilled and Fernox'ed system and all OK.

Two recommendations are buy a proper set of pipe cutters, makes the job
easier (£9 from Wickes) and get some silicone lubricant (£4) as it makes
reseating seals and pushing in pipe easier. You are supposed to scrap the
grab rings and M ring seals, but if you are careful you can push the grab
rings off existing pipe and reuse them. Oh remember to put the inserts in
the pipe before fixing.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In article .com,
wrote:
you can use it but as Roger advised it looks terrible because it sags
with the heat if on a skirting board run. copper is the much better
option even though a bit more expensive.

Eh? If you use solder fittings it's cheaper.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

you can use it but as Roger advised it looks terrible because it sags
with the heat if on a skirting board run. copper is the much better
option even though a bit more expensive.
I had to replace a whole line of pipes because it looked so bad and
saggy.

Although I didn't explicitly say so, I wouldn't use it anywhere where it
*shows* - but it's fine for threading through awkward places where getting a
straight run of copper in would be very difficult.

My comment about sagging was more to do with avoiding airlocks rather than
appearance. For a horizontal run under the floor, I would support it along
its full length on pieces of timber so that it *can't* sag.

So why bother faffing around with it then at all ?, Copper, all the way
unless there's somewhere awkward to thread it through. I had a nasty
offset bend to go through to get around some framing. That's the only
plastic in my house.

Oh, and 1 pushfit on copper. Left by a plumber. grr.

P.

P.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

Mary Fisher wrote:
Has anyone used this piping?

Mary

Don't ever, ever, ever buy the big curled up rolls of Speedfit piping.
Especially 22mm. It will never go where you want it to.

Regards,
Jon.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On 20 Mar 2006 04:48:08 -0800, "Tournifreak"
wrote:


Mary Fisher wrote:
Has anyone used this piping?

Mary

Don't ever, ever, ever buy the big curled up rolls of Speedfit piping.
Especially 22mm. It will never go where you want it to.

Regards,
Jon.



It will if you use hot water.


I used it for pipe runs between the house and the workshop to provide
heating there. Even the 6m lengths would not have been long enough
without underground joints and I wanted to avoid them since they
wouldn't mechanically fit into the ducting.




--

..andy

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:58:50 +0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:


"John Stumbles" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:08:36 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:

Make sure you use barrier pipe - some makes, such as Hep2o come in 2
versions, only one of which is suitable for CH systems.

.... unless you have inhibitor in your system. The amount of air absorbed
through non-barrier pipe is probably still vastly smaller than from the
header tank in an open vented system.

British Gas will not take on a system with non-barrier pipe.

That's not the same as whether it's suitable or otherwise (and not true
unless you substitute 'may' for 'will').

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....db7ffcad95adb1
or http://tinyurl.com/kwskw

Plastic ch plumbing
 

wrote:

So why bother faffing around with it then at all ?, Copper, all the way
unless there's somewhere awkward to thread it through.

It has its attractions... Easy to thread, easy to bury, and quick to
cut, form and assemble. If you use copper or chrome for the visible bits
then saggy bits do not matter much so long as you are not stressing
joints. The issue of air locks on CH systems is not that significant
with pressurised systems anyway.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Plastic ch plumbing
 

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
wrote:

So why bother faffing around with it then at all ?, Copper, all the way
unless there's somewhere awkward to thread it through.

It has its attractions... Easy to thread,

That's what he said.

easy to bury,

So is copper when coiled a plastic coated.

and quick to cut,

So is copper.

form and assemble.

So is copper.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 10:26:19 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

It has its attractions... Easy to thread,

That's what he said.

easy to bury,

So is copper when coiled a plastic coated.

and quick to cut,

So is copper.

form and assemble.

So is copper.


Plastic always seems 'amateurish' to me, like it was designed for
people who don't know how to solder or operate a bender.

Personally, I prefer copper as it appears more professional and
'permanent' somehow.

I dunno what it is but plakky pipe has an 'aura' similar to secondary
double glazing, iyswim?

sponix

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 11:00:34 +0000, Sponix wrote:

On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 10:26:19 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

It has its attractions... Easy to thread,

That's what he said.

easy to bury,

So is copper when coiled a plastic coated.

and quick to cut,

So is copper.

form and assemble.

So is copper.


Plastic always seems 'amateurish' to me, like it was designed for
people who don't know how to solder or operate a bender.

Personally, I prefer copper as it appears more professional and
'permanent' somehow.

I dunno what it is but plakky pipe has an 'aura' similar to secondary
double glazing, iyswim?


I agree with your aesthetic sentiments. I once saw a piccie of a
very vintage radio (sorry, "wireless set" :-)) where the wiring was
done in dead straight lengths of about 16 gauge with perfect 90 degree
pulled bends - like a tube map in copper. Nicely bent and joined copper
pipework is like that. However in terms of getting a job done soundly
and to a reasonable price for something like central heating in a
furnished house you can't beat plastic under the floors and out of sight
(with just a bit of copper where it's on show).

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In article ,
Sponix wrote:
Plastic always seems 'amateurish' to me, like it was designed for
people who don't know how to solder or operate a bender.

Personally, I prefer copper as it appears more professional and
'permanent' somehow.

I dunno what it is but plakky pipe has an 'aura' similar to secondary
double glazing, iyswim?

Suppose it depends if you enjoy DIY plumbing or just do it because you
have to.

--
*Is there another word for synonym?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In article ,
John Stumbles wrote:
I agree with your aesthetic sentiments. I once saw a piccie of a
very vintage radio (sorry, "wireless set" :-)) where the wiring was
done in dead straight lengths of about 16 gauge with perfect 90 degree
pulled bends - like a tube map in copper.

Quad stuff is /was done like that.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Suppose it depends if you enjoy DIY plumbing or just do it because you
have to.

Or maybe both. I enjoy DIY plumbing, and take a pride in making anything
visible look neat. But I still use plastic pipe when I deem it to be
'appropriate'.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Please reply to newsgroup.
Reply address IS valid, but not regularly monitored.

Plastic ch plumbing
 

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 15:00:19 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 20 Mar 2006 04:48:08 -0800, "Tournifreak"
wrote:

Don't ever, ever, ever buy the big curled up rolls of Speedfit piping.
Especially 22mm. It will never go where you want it to.


It will if you use hot water.


I used it for pipe runs between the house and the workshop to provide
heating there. Even the 6m lengths would not have been long enough
without underground joints and I wanted to avoid them since they
wouldn't mechanically fit into the ducting.

Hi,

A steamer blowing steam through the pipe might be good for getting the
pipes to soften a bit to stay in place. Some cold forming bends would
help the corners stay in shape until the pipe cools. Thick gloves
essential though...

cheers,
Pete.