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Chris Vowles
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop


Bought a 4 meter kitchen worktop which has to be cut in exactly the
right place to make 2 work tops for two kitchen units, cost 90 quid so
really don't want to cock it up

Which saw has best chance of cutting a straight line and not chipping
the top :-

General hardwood type saw with the flexible blade (worked well when
cutting the wooden floor I put down) such as this one
(http://www.diy.com/images/products/i...5147_H_1_l.jpg)

Tenon Saw (won't bend)
(http://www.diy.com/images/products/i...88_su1_1_l.jpg)

Electric Jigsaw (don't fancy making a straight cut with this)

Circular Saw (reckon it will rip the top to bits)


Should I put any masking or insulation tape where I am going to cut

Any advice welcome

Chris

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Grunff
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

Chris Vowles wrote:

Circular Saw (reckon it will rip the top to bits)


Of those listed, this would be my choice. It won't rip the top
to bits - you get a surprisingly clean cut with a circular saw
on laminate.


Should I put any masking or insulation tape where I am going to cut


On the bullnose, yes. The rest of the cut won't need it.

--
Grunff

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Simon
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

Use the Circular saw, cut the worktop upside down so that the teeth are
hitting the face rather than lifting it, cut front to back and use a
straight edge guide and line it up with a decent square. Do all that and you
will have a nice clean, square and straight cut.


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John Armstrong
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 20:24:08 +0100, Grunff wrote:

Chris Vowles wrote:

Circular Saw (reckon it will rip the top to bits)


Of those listed, this would be my choice. It won't rip the top
to bits - you get a surprisingly clean cut with a circular saw
on laminate.

Best cut from underside though.


--
John
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Grunff
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

John Armstrong wrote:

Of those listed, this would be my choice. It won't rip the top
to bits - you get a surprisingly clean cut with a circular saw
on laminate.


Best cut from underside though.


Yeah, sorry - I should've said that. If you cut from above it
will tear the laminate off!

--
Grunff



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Sean Delere
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

Use the Circular saw, cut the worktop upside down so that the teeth are
hitting the face rather than lifting it, cut front to back and use a
straight edge guide and line it up with a decent square. Do all that and

you
will have a nice clean, square and straight cut.


Agreed.

If you clamp the straight edge to the side you are keeping (ie. not the
waste side) then you can't go wrong. Even if you do wander from the guide it
will cut into the waste portion and not ruin your finished cut.

Sean


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Christian McArdle
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

Which saw has best chance of cutting a straight line and not chipping
the top :-


Cut 3mm oversize with the circular saw and then shave off the remaining with
a half inch router with clamped guides.

Christian.


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Sean Delere
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

If you clamp the straight edge to the side you are keeping (ie. not the
waste side) then you can't go wrong. Even if you do wander from the guide

it
will cut into the waste portion and not ruin your finished cut.


Thanks, my worry is that I have no waste at all, both halves are to be
used as top is exactly the correct length



If things are that tight you are going to struggle. Will the thickness of
the circular saw blade rob you of too much material? If so you're going to
have to use a jigsaw for a thinner blade.

If you can afford to loose the SC blade thickness then you could always
attach a second straight edge to stop you from wandering off the line.

Sean


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Chris Vowles
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 12:07:34 +0000 (UTC), "Sean Delere"
wrote:

If you clamp the straight edge to the side you are keeping (ie. not the
waste side) then you can't go wrong. Even if you do wander from the guide

it
will cut into the waste portion and not ruin your finished cut.


Thanks, my worry is that I have no waste at all, both halves are to be
used as top is exactly the correct length



If things are that tight you are going to struggle. Will the thickness of
the circular saw blade rob you of too much material? If so you're going to
have to use a jigsaw for a thinner blade.

If you can afford to loose the SC blade thickness then you could always
attach a second straight edge to stop you from wandering off the line.


Thanks for the advice, I have about 5-10mm spare!

Chris
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stuart noble
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop


Simon wrote in message ...
Chris ... just be careful and you should be fine with 1 straight edge,

don't
make the mistake of watching the cut, watch the edge of your base against
the straight edge, make sure that both bits of worktop are well supported

Which means you need 4 supports of the same size. I use those nesting
plastic storage bins. Cheaper than saw horses and don't take up much room.
Also the lower height is better for circ saw operation. You can put your
foot on the workpiece and have both hands free for the saw. Make sure the
batten you're following overhangs the worktop at the beginning of the cut by
6" or so. This means that the blade is in the right position and spinning
niceley before it touches the workpiece.




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Peter Scott
 
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Default Tips on cutting a worktop

Does one end butt into tiles. If so that will give you some leaway, praps 8
mm
if you need it depending on tile thickness.

--
__________________________________________________ ______________

Peter Scott
__________________________________________________ ______________


"Sean Delere" wrote in message
...
If you clamp the straight edge to the side you are keeping (ie. not the
waste side) then you can't go wrong. Even if you do wander from the

guide
it
will cut into the waste portion and not ruin your finished cut.


Thanks, my worry is that I have no waste at all, both halves are to be
used as top is exactly the correct length



If things are that tight you are going to struggle. Will the thickness of
the circular saw blade rob you of too much material? If so you're going to
have to use a jigsaw for a thinner blade.

If you can afford to loose the SC blade thickness then you could always
attach a second straight edge to stop you from wandering off the line.

Sean




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