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  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
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Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Hi,

Does anyone have a copy of the Myson program? Can't find it anywhere on
t'internet.

Reason I need is that I have had a ch guy round and I think he's
oversizing everything to avoid comeback. For example about 10,000 BTU
for a 4mx2mx2.7m bedroom (2 external walls) Also suggested a 37.9kW
boiler for a 3 bed end terrace house (100 yr old). The reasoning is
that the boiler (not a combi) would not need to work as hard etc. I
understand that oversizing condensing boilers is not as much as an
issue as they are modulated but surely this is enough to heat the
neighbours house too.

I thought I'd try calculating some rooms last night. Found the formula,
and have taken into account wall sizes, windows, doors, U-values,
ventilation rate etc but it all seems on the low side the bedroom was
coming out at about 1.4Kw. As an experiment I put a 2kw electric heater
in there for 30 mins and it just managed to heat the room up.

Also labour for all fitting is £800 - resited and new boiler,
converting to a sealed S-Plan and 7 rads (one resited). Does this sound
reasonable?


Cheers!

  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On 16 Feb 2006 02:11:21 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

Hi,

Does anyone have a copy of the Myson program? Can't find it anywhere on
t'internet.

Reason I need is that I have had a ch guy round and I think he's
oversizing everything to avoid comeback. For example about 10,000 BTU
for a 4mx2mx2.7m bedroom (2 external walls) Also suggested a 37.9kW
boiler for a 3 bed end terrace house (100 yr old). The reasoning is
that the boiler (not a combi) would not need to work as hard etc. I
understand that oversizing condensing boilers is not as much as an
issue as they are modulated but surely this is enough to heat the
neighbours house too.


If he's working in BTUs then he should be shown the door anyway.

If he's mixing BTU and kW units then the above should apply together
with a steel capped boot.

If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.

I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.



I thought I'd try calculating some rooms last night. Found the formula,
and have taken into account wall sizes, windows, doors, U-values,
ventilation rate etc but it all seems on the low side the bedroom was
coming out at about 1.4Kw. As an experiment I put a 2kw electric heater
in there for 30 mins and it just managed to heat the room up.

Also labour for all fitting is £800 - resited and new boiler,
converting to a sealed S-Plan and 7 rads (one resited). Does this sound
reasonable?


Cheers!


--

..andy

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Supposing that the BTU calc for the rads comes to about 50,000
(calculated at -3 degrees outside and with an extra 20% to be on the
safe side) and domestic HW is required, would the boiler below be a
good choice?


http://www.worcesterbosch.co.uk/inde...&con_id=125930

88,000 BTU max output, fully modulating etc, etc...

Cheers,
Matt

  #4   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
John Rumm
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Andy Hall wrote:

I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.


It does sound excessive... worst case I could calculate for my place was
about 8kW and that included the 2nd floor as well (although compared to
the rest of the house that is well insulated).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Lunny wrote:
Supposing that the BTU calc for the rads comes to about 50,000
(calculated at -3 degrees outside and with an extra 20% to be on the
safe side) and domestic HW is required, would the boiler below be a
good choice?


http://www.worcesterbosch.co.uk/inde...&con_id=125930

88,000 BTU max output, fully modulating etc, etc...

Cheers,
Matt


Sizing boilers and radiators on heat loss is not always such a good idea.

The peak output determines how FAST the place will heat up..

Then, providing you have proper thermostats, the heat loss will only
determine the duty cycle of the boiler.

And provided that you have a bit of hysteresis on the stats, that will
prevent short cycling.

So efficiency of heating is not really a function of the boiler or
radiator SIZE.

They just need to be big enough to heat the place up quickly enough.

If you are at home all day in the winter..you may run the heating more,
and need less peak output..OTOH if you leave the house empty in the day,
you should go for a bit more radiator size and a bit more of a boiler.

By the sound of it, something around 25KW for the boiler, and about 4KW
in the larger rooms and less in the smaller sounds fairly sound.

Pay more attention to thermostats and controls than to rad and boiler
sizing.

I think that if I were to do a rad installation again, I'd go for an
electrical stat in every room, with a motorized valve for every room,
and connect the switches all in series to control the boiler - no master
stat.. :-)




  #6   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Roger Mills \(aka Set Square\)
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:


I think that if I were to do a rad installation again, I'd go for an
electrical stat in every room, with a motorized valve for every room,
and connect the switches all in series to control the boiler - no
master stat.. :-)


I presume you mean *parallel*? If wired in series, the boiler will only fire
when *all* rooms are cooling for heat simultaneously. Saves on gas, I
suppose. g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Please reply to newsgroup.
Reply address IS valid, but is disposable in the event of excessive
spam.


  #7   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Roger Mills \(aka Set Square\)
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lunny wrote:


I thought I'd try calculating some rooms last night. Found the
formula, and have taken into account wall sizes, windows, doors,
U-values, ventilation rate etc but it all seems on the low side the
bedroom was coming out at about 1.4Kw. As an experiment I put a 2kw
electric heater in there for 30 mins and it just managed to heat the
room up.

Did you take air changes into account? That can account for a substantial
extra heating requirement.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Please reply to newsgroup.
Reply address IS valid, but is disposable in the event of excessive
spam.


  #8   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Yes. Sorry, this is what I meant by ventilation rate.

I'm getting the impression that I don't really need a boiler as big as
the ch installer suggested....

I'll see what the Myson calc says.

Cheers.

  #9   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Andy,

Have PM'ed you with my email address. Let me know if you don't get it.

Cheers,
Matt

  #10   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 11:29:11 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:

I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.


It does sound excessive... worst case I could calculate for my place was
about 8kW and that included the 2nd floor as well (although compared to
the rest of the house that is well insulated).



Sure, but here we are talking about three external walls that are
probably just double brick. That makes a huge difference.


--

..andy



  #11   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On 16 Feb 2006 05:30:46 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

Andy,

Have PM'ed you with my email address. Let me know if you don't get it.

Cheers,
Matt



Sorry, nothing received.....


--

..andy

  #12   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program


Andy Hall wrote:
On 16 Feb 2006 05:30:46 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

Andy,

Have PM'ed you with my email address. Let me know if you don't get it.

Cheers,
Matt



Sorry, nothing received.....


--

.andy


Andy,

Please send to

Cheers,
Matt

  #13   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program


Lunny wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 16 Feb 2006 05:30:46 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

Andy,

Have PM'ed you with my email address. Let me know if you don't get it.

Cheers,
Matt



Sorry, nothing received.....


--

.andy


Andy,

Please send to

Cheers,
Matt


Obviously removing *remove*

Cheers,
Matt

  #14   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
The Natural Philosopher
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Roger Mills (aka Set Square) wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I think that if I were to do a rad installation again, I'd go for an
electrical stat in every room, with a motorized valve for every room,
and connect the switches all in series to control the boiler - no
master stat.. :-)


I presume you mean *parallel*? If wired in series, the boiler will only fire
when *all* rooms are cooling for heat simultaneously. Saves on gas, I
suppose. g

Ooops. Mea culpa!

yup parallel the room stats and put them in series with the timer..
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
raden
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

In message , Andy Hall
writes
On 16 Feb 2006 02:11:21 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

Hi,

Does anyone have a copy of the Myson program? Can't find it anywhere on
t'internet.

Reason I need is that I have had a ch guy round and I think he's
oversizing everything to avoid comeback. For example about 10,000 BTU
for a 4mx2mx2.7m bedroom (2 external walls) Also suggested a 37.9kW
boiler for a 3 bed end terrace house (100 yr old). The reasoning is
that the boiler (not a combi) would not need to work as hard etc. I
understand that oversizing condensing boilers is not as much as an
issue as they are modulated but surely this is enough to heat the
neighbours house too.


If he's working in BTUs then he should be shown the door anyway.

If he's mixing BTU and kW units then the above should apply together
with a steel capped boot.

If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Actschully ...

me please ?



I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.



I thought I'd try calculating some rooms last night. Found the formula,
and have taken into account wall sizes, windows, doors, U-values,
ventilation rate etc but it all seems on the low side the bedroom was
coming out at about 1.4Kw. As an experiment I put a 2kw electric heater
in there for 30 mins and it just managed to heat the room up.

Also labour for all fitting is £800 - resited and new boiler,
converting to a sealed S-Plan and 7 rads (one resited). Does this sound
reasonable?


Cheers!



--
geoff


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 22:06:57 GMT, raden wrote:

In message , Andy Hall



If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Actschully ...

me please ?




On its way



--

..andy

  #17   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
John Rumm
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Andy Hall wrote:

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 11:29:11 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:


I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.


It does sound excessive... worst case I could calculate for my place was
about 8kW and that included the 2nd floor as well (although compared to
the rest of the house that is well insulated).




Sure, but here we are talking about three external walls that are
probably just double brick. That makes a huge difference.


Yup, but that is what I have got: 9" solid wall with 1" render over

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
raden
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

In message , Andy Hall
writes
On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 22:06:57 GMT, raden wrote:

In message , Andy Hall



If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Actschully ...

me please ?




On its way

Parked and garaged

--
geoff
  #19   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 23:18:22 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 11:29:11 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:


I would be surprised if 38kW were needed for this application. I
might believe 25.

It does sound excessive... worst case I could calculate for my place was
about 8kW and that included the 2nd floor as well (although compared to
the rest of the house that is well insulated).




Sure, but here we are talking about three external walls that are
probably just double brick. That makes a huge difference.


Yup, but that is what I have got: 9" solid wall with 1" render over



I'm surprised that you had so little heatloss.

However, keep in mind that a terraced house is often narrow and deep
rather than more square like a detached or semidetached house. It may
also have an extension section for kitchen and third bedroom.

The result is a substantial outside wall area.


--

..andy

  #20   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Lunny
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

I've "Mysoned" the house and it says the boiler size required is 19kW.
Allowing about 4kw for hot water would mean I'd need 23Kw. Would
getting a 24kw boiler be a good idea? Would it mean the boiler would be
overworked at all or does it just mean that the house/HW will not heat
up as fast? What would be the advantages/disadvantages of oversizing
the boiler?



  #21   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Tony Bryer
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On 17 Feb 2006 08:15:39 -0800 Lunny wrote :
I've "Mysoned" the house and it says the boiler size required is
19kW. Allowing about 4kw for hot water would mean I'd need 23Kw.
Would getting a 24kw boiler be a good idea? Would it mean the boiler
would be overworked at all or does it just mean that the house/HW
will not heat up as fast? What would be the advantages/disadvantages
of oversizing the boiler?


if the boiler you are considering is a modulating one then there's no
huge problem with it being a bit oversized - when the full output is
not required the gas burn rate will be reduced to what is needed. If
you oversize and the boiler cannot modulate down then it will run in
stop/start mode for most of the heating season.

You can check boiler outputs from our free browser, see sig

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.12 released 8 Dec 2005]


  #22   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
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Default Myson Heat Loss Program

On 17 Feb 2006 08:15:39 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:

I've "Mysoned" the house and it says the boiler size required is 19kW.


That sounds more reasonable.


Allowing about 4kw for hot water would mean I'd need 23Kw.


This is where some interpretation of the results is needed.

The 4kW figure stems from when it was common practice to heat the
water in the cylinder using convection circulation from the boiler
(aka gravity). This would be about the typical trasnfer rate and
would be happening all the time that the heating is running as well as
when HW only. Therefore the figure was added.

Nowadays on new installations one can't fit gravity systems (building
regulations) and the typical arrangement is to use a diverter valve
and fully pump the circuit to the coil of the cylinder. Especially
if the cylinder is a Part L type or better still a fast recovery, the
heat trasnfer rate can be 20kW or possibly more. The idea is that
when HW reheat is needed, the boiler is switched over from heating and
all of its output goes to the cylinder. Since this is more, then
reheat is fast and then the boiler is switched back. Ergo, you don't
have to allow for water heating.

Would
getting a 24kw boiler be a good idea? Would it mean the boiler would be
overworked at all or does it just mean that the house/HW will not heat
up as fast? What would be the advantages/disadvantages of oversizing
the boiler?


I think that something in the 24-25 or even 28kW range is fine.

If you go for a modulating boiler, and typically will with a
condensing model that is normally required nowadays, it will run at
lower output when running the heating. In any case, for much of the
year you won't need anything like 19kW anyway.


--

..andy

  #23   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Steve
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 16 Feb 2006 02:11:21 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:



If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Andy,

Can I ask you to please send me a copy also.

Remove the '.remove' from my hotmail address.

Thanks


  #24   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program



On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 18:41:04 +0000 (UTC), "Steve"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On 16 Feb 2006 02:11:21 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:



If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Andy,

Can I ask you to please send me a copy also.

Remove the '.remove' from my hotmail address.

Thanks



On its way



--

..andy

  #25   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Steve
 
Posts: n/a
Default Myson Heat Loss Program

Thanks very much Andy

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...


On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 18:41:04 +0000 (UTC), "Steve"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
. ..
On 16 Feb 2006 02:11:21 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:



If you would like the Myson program, send me an email.


Andy,

Can I ask you to please send me a copy also.

Remove the '.remove' from my hotmail address.

Thanks



On its way



--

.andy



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