draughty floor board gaps
 

Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob

draughty floor board gaps
 

wrote:
Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob


High time someone addressed this problem. Looks like it's black, which
is probably the best colour because then you don't actually see it, and
it just highlights the straight lines.
I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.
Let us know if you end up using it.

draughty floor board gaps
 

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob


High time someone addressed this problem. Looks like it's black, which
is probably the best colour because then you don't actually see it, and
it just highlights the straight lines.
I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.
Let us know if you end up using it.

The boatbuilder's fix for gaps like this is to use a polyurethane
sealant in a darker colour than the wood such as Sikaflex®-290 DC. There
are cheaper polyurethane sealants around and they have an estimated
50-75 year life.

The good things is that they can be sanded and overpainted or varnished
which you cannot do with silicone sealants.

draughty floor board gaps
 

Steve Firth wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob


High time someone addressed this problem. Looks like it's black, which
is probably the best colour because then you don't actually see it, and
it just highlights the straight lines.
I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.
Let us know if you end up using it.

The boatbuilder's fix for gaps like this is to use a polyurethane
sealant in a darker colour than the wood such as Sikaflex®-290 DC. There
are cheaper polyurethane sealants around and they have an estimated
50-75 year life.

The good things is that they can be sanded and overpainted or varnished
which you cannot do with silicone sealants.

How do you get it to stay in the gap if there is a void beneath?

Jacob

draughty floor board gaps
 

wrote:
Steve Firth wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob

High time someone addressed this problem. Looks like it's black, which
is probably the best colour because then you don't actually see it, and
it just highlights the straight lines.
I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.
Let us know if you end up using it.
The boatbuilder's fix for gaps like this is to use a polyurethane
sealant in a darker colour than the wood such as Sikaflex®-290 DC. There
are cheaper polyurethane sealants around and they have an estimated
50-75 year life.

The good things is that they can be sanded and overpainted or varnished
which you cannot do with silicone sealants.

How do you get it to stay in the gap if there is a void beneath?

In my case I just squirt it in, practice lets you gauge how much to
apply and how to cut nozzles to match gap width. If you don't like that
you can save sealant by caulking with string or newspaper.

draughty floor board gaps
 

Stuart Noble wrote:
owdman wrote:
Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

They don't show the section anywhere. I think you might be right!
Perhaps it's a re-packaged "off the wall" product.


High time someone addressed this problem.

This problem has been addressed. On their site they even say
"Consultations with the sanding contractor revealed our options
to be very few. We could use Papier-mché or a mix of glue an
sawdust, pushed into the gaps and re-sanded". I wouldn't recommend
the glue and sawdust, not if the glue's PVA, anyway. Papier mache
works quite well.


Looks like it's black, which
is probably the best colour because then you don't actually see it, and
it just highlights the straight lines.

Probably a vee, as they say it should be pressed down out of sight
into a 1-8mm wide groove 10mm deep minimum.


I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.

Probably a springy vee.

draughty floor board gaps
 

Chris Bacon wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

owdman wrote:

Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?


They don't show the section anywhere. I think you might be right!
Perhaps it's a re-packaged "off the wall" product.


High time someone addressed this problem.


This problem has been addressed. On their site they even say
"Consultations with the sanding contractor revealed our options
to be very few. We could use Papier-mché or a mix of glue an
sawdust, pushed into the gaps and re-sanded". I wouldn't recommend
the glue and sawdust, not if the glue's PVA, anyway. Papier mache
works quite well.


Looks like it's black, which is probably the best colour because then
you don't actually see it, and it just highlights the straight lines.


Probably a vee, as they say it should be pressed down out of sight
into a 1-8mm wide groove 10mm deep minimum.


I have my doubts about the bits between the joists staying put if the
gap is significantly wider, or narrower than the strip. I can only see
rubber or silicone being sufficiently flexible.


Probably a springy vee.

IME springy plastic vees cease being springy after a while, at which
point presumably they would sag between the joists. Best stuff I've seen
is a silicone tube section, which compresses down to nothing but readily
springs back, even after several years of compression.

draughty floor board gaps
 

On 28 Jan 2006 15:43:47 -0800, wrote:

Anybody tried this: http://www.stopg-p.co.uk/ ?
It struck me that there might be something similar but cheaper in a
plastic or neoprene mouldings catalogue. Any alternative suggestions?

cheers
Jacob

Hi,

You could get some large dia black Armaflex pipe insulation, slit it
then cut strips of the width you need.

Probably best to install when the boards are well dried out and use
strips that are some wider than the gaps.

BES do quite a good selection of Armaflex:

http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/086.asp

Also good for protecting rafters from your head ;)

cheers,
Pete.