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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.
I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. Cheers for the advise. J |
#2
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
"Johnt" wrote in message
... Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen. I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. Cheers for the advice. J Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed 12A. Jim |
#3
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
Run the cable in 20mm steel conduit, then at least you can detect it
with a cable detector and the chances of piercing it with drilling will be slim. |
#4
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
"Jim Gregory" wrote in message ... "Johnt" wrote in message ... Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen. I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the skirting. If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong with clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on the skirting. I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables deep enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep should be OK) Cheers for the advice. J Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed 12A. Jim The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I would not recommend such adaptors for this use. Adam |
#5
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
. .. "Jim Gregory" wrote in message ... "Johnt" wrote in message ... Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen. I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the skirting. If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong with clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on the skirting. I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables deep enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep should be OK) Cheers for the advice. J Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed 12A. Jim The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I would not recommend such adaptors for this use. Adam Not necessarily, only a 3kW kettle, for a few minutes, or a grill-pan draws that much. Wouldn't have them connected at the same dual/triple array anyway. Many other kitchen worktop appliances are far more moderate. Even a m'wave oven-grill draws only 5A max. IMO the 3-gang outlets are not what I'd call adaptors, but useful products made from lateral thinking. Jim |
#6
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
Johnt wrote:
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen. I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. It's perfectly sensible and allowed by the regulations to run the cables horizontally between the sockets. -- Chris Green |
#7
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. I just ran mine horizontally. Less hassle. Ensure the cable run is within the height of the sockets. Christian. |
#8
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Electric Sockets in Kitchen
"Jim Gregory" wrote in message ... "ARWadsworth" wrote in message . .. "Jim Gregory" wrote in message ... "Johnt" wrote in message ... Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen. I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about 8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they should). In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor. You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the skirting. If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong with clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on the skirting. I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put condiment/utensil holders. Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables deep enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep should be OK) Cheers for the advice. J Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed 12A. Jim The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I would not recommend such adaptors for this use. Adam Not necessarily, only a 3kW kettle, for a few minutes, or a grill-pan draws that much. Wouldn't have them connected at the same dual/triple array anyway. Many other kitchen worktop appliances are far more moderate. Even a m'wave oven-grill draws only 5A max. IMO the 3-gang outlets are not what I'd call adaptors, but useful products made from lateral thinking. Jim They are 13 amp adaptors and contain a 13 amp fuse. Adam |
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