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Johnt
 
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Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going
to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they
should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing
socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best
sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little
at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to
go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one.
Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up
but i've got a concrete floor.

I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put
condiment/utensil holders.

Cheers for the advise.

J


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Jim Gregory
 
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Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

"Johnt" wrote in message
...
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm
going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like
they should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an
existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing
i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then
along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the
next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing socket
to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor
and then back up but i've got a concrete floor.

I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put
condiment/utensil holders.

Cheers for the advice.

J

Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box
recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK
triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as long
as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed 12A.
Jim



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michaelangelo7
 
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Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

Run the cable in 20mm steel conduit, then at least you can detect it
with a cable detector and the chances of piercing it with drilling will
be slim.

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Posted to uk.d-i-y
ARWadsworth
 
Posts: n/a
Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen


"Jim Gregory" wrote in message
...
"Johnt" wrote in message
...
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm
going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like
they should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an
existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing
i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then
along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the
next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing
socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under
the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor.



You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the
skirting.
If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong with
clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on the
skirting.


I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put
condiment/utensil holders.


Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables deep
enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep should be
OK)

Cheers for the advice.

J

Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box
recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK
triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as
long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed
12A.
Jim


The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I would
not recommend such adaptors for this use.

Adam


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Jim Gregory
 
Posts: n/a
Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
. ..

"Jim Gregory" wrote in message
...
"Johnt" wrote in message
...
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm
going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like
they should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an
existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing
i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then
along a little at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the
next socket or to go straight across horizontally from the existing
socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under
the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete floor.



You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the
skirting.
If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong
with clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on the
skirting.


I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put
condiment/utensil holders.


Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables deep
enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep should
be OK)

Cheers for the advice.

J

Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box
recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to MK
triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable as
long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not exceed
12A.
Jim


The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I
would not recommend such adaptors for this use.

Adam


Not necessarily, only a 3kW kettle, for a few minutes, or a grill-pan draws
that much. Wouldn't have them connected at the same dual/triple array
anyway. Many other kitchen worktop appliances are far more moderate. Even a
m'wave oven-grill draws only 5A max.
IMO the 3-gang outlets are not what I'd call adaptors, but useful products
made from lateral thinking.
Jim




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Posted to uk.d-i-y
 
Posts: n/a
Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

Johnt wrote:
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm going
to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like they
should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an existing
socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The thing i'm not best
sure about is whether to go straight down to the floor then along a little
at the back of the skirting board and then back up to the next socket or to
go straight across horizontally from the existing socket to the new one.
Normally i would not hesitate to run down, under the floor and then back up
but i've got a concrete floor.

It's perfectly sensible and allowed by the regulations to run the
cables horizontally between the sockets.

--
Chris Green

  #7   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Christian McArdle
 
Posts: n/a
Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen

I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally but
this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially put
condiment/utensil holders.


I just ran mine horizontally. Less hassle. Ensure the cable run is within
the height of the sockets.

Christian.


  #8   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
ARWadsworth
 
Posts: n/a
Default Electric Sockets in Kitchen


"Jim Gregory" wrote in message
...
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
. ..

"Jim Gregory" wrote in message
...
"Johnt" wrote in message
...
Hi I'm adding a couple of new sockets in the kitchen.

I'm placing them at the same level as the existing ones, they're about
8inches above the worktops. The wiring for the existing ones, that i'm
going to split the ring from are cabled vertically down the wall (like
they should).

In order to wire the new sockets i'm going to have to wire from an
existing socket to my new one, then onto the next one etc etc. The
thing i'm not best sure about is whether to go straight down to the
floor then along a little at the back of the skirting board and then
back up to the next socket or to go straight across horizontally from
the existing socket to the new one. Normally i would not hesitate to
run down, under the floor and then back up but i've got a concrete
floor.



You might have a concrete floor but do not hide the cables behind the
skirting.
If there are kitchen units infront of the cable there is nothing wrong
with clipping the cables to the skirting or using trunking above or on
the skirting.


I know you can expect sockets within the kitchen to run horizontally
but this would leave cable in a position where you would potentially
put condiment/utensil holders.


Then put the utensil holders at a different height or sink the cables
deep enought to allow a screw into the wall for such holders (50mm deep
should be OK)

Cheers for the advice.

J
Before you start carving (vertically) into the wall and making new box
recesses, have you thought about converting any double-gang outlets to
MK triple-gang ones yet with the same-sized box? I think it's feisable
as long as the total load per cluster that you have in mind does not
exceed 12A.
Jim


The load is likely to exceed 13 amps on a kitchen worktop socket and I
would not recommend such adaptors for this use.

Adam


Not necessarily, only a 3kW kettle, for a few minutes, or a grill-pan
draws that much. Wouldn't have them connected at the same dual/triple
array anyway. Many other kitchen worktop appliances are far more moderate.
Even a m'wave oven-grill draws only 5A max.
IMO the 3-gang outlets are not what I'd call adaptors, but useful
products made from lateral thinking.
Jim


They are 13 amp adaptors and contain a 13 amp fuse.

Adam


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