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Light table - suitable lights for
I am hoping to build a modest sized light table - about 18" x 12" which
would be sufficient to display about 50 35mm slides. The simplest construction I can imagine is a shallow wooden box with a sheet of suitable diffusing plastic as the working surface. What lighting would be suitable for such a table? Low wattage high luminosity seems essential. Are the new (to me) LED bulbs appropriate? What sort of luminosity do they give and in what sort of beam? I assume spotlights are not appropriate. I don't want to spend a lot - well not much more than it would cost to buy, say, 3 of the larger tables that Jessops sell as that would give me the sort of area I am looking for. Any suggestions gladly considered! TIA Frank |
Light table - suitable lights for
Small fluorescent tubes such as found in kitchens etc? Sand blasted
glass could be better for a screen as it is more durable. |
Light table - suitable lights for
Frank Stacey wrote: I am hoping to build a modest sized light table - about 18" x 12" which would be sufficient to display about 50 35mm slides. The simplest construction I can imagine is a shallow wooden box with a sheet of suitable diffusing plastic as the working surface. What lighting would be suitable for such a table? Low wattage high luminosity seems essential. Are the new (to me) LED bulbs appropriate? What sort of luminosity do they give and in what sort of beam? I assume spotlights are not appropriate. I don't want to spend a lot - well not much more than it would cost to buy, say, 3 of the larger tables that Jessops sell as that would give me the sort of area I am looking for. Any suggestions gladly considered! TIA Frank I have a 60W circular fluorescent I use face up for such a purpose. It's an old type with flat translucent cover rather than the modern fancy etched glass saucer. I can get about 45 2x2 slides on its 18" diameter. It's slightly dimmer in the middle than at the edges -- of no consequence for viewing, but might be if you're going to photograph the slides en masse. I doubt if you can buy one like mine other than in a junk shop, as IIRC translucent covers are illegal under current lighting regs, but this may give you some ideas. Other than a circular tube, a couple of modern B-shaped fluorescents under a sheet of plastic would probably work. Chris |
Light table - suitable lights for
On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 12:06:05 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote: The simplest construction I can imagine is a shallow wooden box Shallow boxes are much too difficult to make. Make a deep box instead, give the inside a coat of good white gloss and use reflected light to illuminate things. A couple of small fluo tubes with ply or MDF lids over them to stop direct light will give a much more even lighting than a shallow box and direct line-of-sight to a bulb, even with a diffuser. |
Light table - suitable lights for
Can you beg, borrow or steal an X-ray viewing box from somewhere?
They seem to be the right size and sort of light for you. They're usually lit with fluorescent tubes. -- Helen D. Vecht: Edgware. |
Light table - suitable lights for
"Frank Stacey" wrote in message ... I am hoping to build a modest sized light table - about 18" x 12" which would be sufficient to display about 50 35mm slides. The simplest construction I can imagine is a shallow wooden box with a sheet of suitable diffusing plastic as the working surface. What lighting would be suitable for such a table? Low wattage high luminosity seems essential. Are the new (to me) LED bulbs appropriate? What sort of luminosity do they give and in what sort of beam? I assume spotlights are not appropriate. I don't want to spend a lot - well not much more than it would cost to buy, say, 3 of the larger tables that Jessops sell as that would give me the sort of area I am looking for. Any suggestions gladly considered! A good look at this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-LIGHT-BOX-L...QQcmdZViewItem will give some ideas |
Light table - suitable lights for
On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 14:23:18 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:
Shallow boxes are much too difficult to make. Make a deep box instead, give the inside a coat of good white gloss and use reflected light to illuminate things. I like the idea of deeper white painted box but I'd use matt white rather than gloss otherwise you will get a highlight from the light source at some points. A couple of small fluo tubes with ply or MDF lids No need to go for lids a strip along the back of the tube/fitting wide enough so that no direct light can reach the viewing glass. Everything inside painted white including the strips. -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
Light table - suitable lights for
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 14:51:04 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote: I like the idea of deeper white painted box but I'd use matt white rather than gloss otherwise you will get a highlight from the light source at some points. Use a fluorescent - if you have a large source you can avoid the hot spot problems. There's about four stops brightness difference between typical matt and gloss white paints. |
Light table - suitable lights for
Hi Andy
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:13:17 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote: On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 14:51:04 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" wrote: I like the idea of deeper white painted box but I'd use matt white rather than gloss otherwise you will get a highlight from the light source at some points. Use a fluorescent - if you have a large source you can avoid the hot spot problems. There's about four stops brightness difference between typical matt and gloss white paints. I know you're into stained glass (from your other posts)..... I wonder if you've ever tried to make a lightbox to show off stained glass... With the new Craft Fair season coming along - I was thinking about better ways of displaying stained glass suncatchers - and was wondering about some sort of fold out lightbox display - but concerned that it shouldn't be too bright and 'dazzle' people.... Can't always rely on sunlight to show off the glass - and it does need light from behind for best effect... Any experience of this ? TIA Adrian www.inspired-glass.co.uk ======return email munged================= take out the papers and the trash to reply |
Light table - suitable lights for
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Light table - suitable lights for
HI Andy
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 02:06:03 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote: On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:51:44 +0000, Adrian Brentnall adrian-the papers and the wrote: I wonder if you've ever tried to make a lightbox to show off stained glass... Yes, several. Deep boxes with straight fluo tubes and no diffuser. With translucent 'perspex' on the front ? You don't find that you get too much 'glare' ? Some of this depends on the glass - some looks better with more diffuse light, highly textured glass needs a bit of a point source or you lose the variation in brightness with angle. Hanging the piece from a short chain and allowing it all to wobble a bit can help too - movement adds sparkle. True. At the last show I did back in December I had a lovely lighting setup - 8ft x 4ft window high up in the wall with the sunlight streaming in - lit everything up a treat. The the people on the next stall complained that it was too bright - so the organisers stuck some cardboard over the window - darn ! Need my own 'portable' sunlight g Can't always rely on sunlight to show off the glass - and it does need light from behind for best effect... Our "suncatchers" are mainly Swarovskis and beads, rather than flat glass. Spot lighting from the front is important to get a good sparkle. I've been using 12V dichroic spots, and with metal foil snoots or even lens systems to get a spot beam. Slightly different to me - but you're right - needs a combination of lighting to get the best. Helen prefers a simple approach of halogen floods at about half a kilowatt / metre of shopfront. Keeps the stall warm in Winter too! I've got this image of the snow 2" thick around the stall, but yourselves there in straw hat & sunglasses g. I suppose if there's 'enough' light around (from the floods) then a light-coloured material behind the hanging glass will give some 'back-lighting' - maybe I'll try that before doing anything more elaborate. I've got a couple of 150watt floods - I'll have a play. Need to think generally about displays - it didn't matter so much when you were only paying a tenner or £20 a table - but when stand fees get up, (and beyond) the £100 mark then 'every little helps!' Thanks for the advice. BTW - you don't know where I can buy those 'double-headed pins' that they use to hold jewelley on display stands, do you ?? Take care Adrian ======return email munged================= take out the papers and the trash to reply |
Light table - suitable lights for
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:13:17 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:
I like the idea of deeper white painted box but I'd use matt white rather than gloss otherwise you will get a highlight from the light source at some points. Use a fluorescent - if you have a large source you can avoid the hot spot problems. You can still get a flare from gloss and fluories. Perhaps my choice of the word "points" wasn't descriptive enough. A linear fluory will produce a linear flare. A 2D type might be better but making the mask will be harder. One to covering the entire back of the tube area I think you be to big and produce a dark area. There's about four stops brightness difference between typical matt and gloss white paints. Shouldn't imagine that is a problem for a light box for view slides. -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
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