flushing central heating - more questions
 

Well a couple more questions and also an update as to where I've got to.
Last time I asked about draining the system as I couldn't open the
bleeding valves on some of the radiators upstairs. Following advice here
I sprayed some wd40 (found in the garage) on the valves, left a day or
so, bought a brass radiator key from Wickes and opened them up with a
bit of pressure. So thanks to whoever suggested that.

I drained the entire system till the water ran clear just to see how
long it would take and also to make sure I could do it without any
problems and what a difference it's made to the system . The boiler now
makes no noise at all and all the radiators are nice and hot when the
system's on. Is this really all it takes?

Anyway, I'd like to complete the job and put some cleaner in the system
and then some inhibitor once I've drained all the cleaner out. So my
first question is what sort of cleaner/inhibitor would people recommend.
I was going to go for Fernox but couldn't see it in my local Wickes
although they did have some of their own stuff.

My second question is... Is this cleaner/inhibitor stuff okay where
there's a plastic joint? A plumber came round to fix a leak and put a
plastic joint in on one of the pipes under the floor. Is this bad? I've
never liked plastic but unfortunately I wasn't around when he did it and
the whole thing was fixed, paid for and refloored before I had anything
to say about it.

Thanks all

--
John Kelly

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flushing central heating - more questions
 

On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:40:13 +0000 (UTC), John Kelly
wrote:

My second question is... Is this cleaner/inhibitor stuff okay where
there's a plastic joint? A plumber came round to fix a leak and put a
plastic joint in on one of the pipes under the floor. Is this bad? I've
never liked plastic but unfortunately I wasn't around when he did it and
the whole thing was fixed, paid for and refloored before I had anything
to say about it.

Wickes own brand stuff will probably do the job fine. If you want
Fernox then B&Q sell it.

I'm sure it'll be fine with plastic, however, check the back of the
bottle..if it's not OK it will say so.

For ease of sue you can get fernox in tubes that you squirt into a
radiator via the bleed valve. It's more expensive than the normal
stuff but far easier than going into the loft:

http://www.fernox.com/

sponix

flushing central heating - more questions
 

On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:40:13 +0000 (UTC), John Kelly
wrote:

Well a couple more questions and also an update as to where I've got to.
Last time I asked about draining the system as I couldn't open the
bleeding valves on some of the radiators upstairs. Following advice here
I sprayed some wd40 (found in the garage) on the valves, left a day or
so, bought a brass radiator key from Wickes and opened them up with a
bit of pressure. So thanks to whoever suggested that.

I drained the entire system till the water ran clear just to see how
long it would take and also to make sure I could do it without any
problems and what a difference it's made to the system . The boiler now
makes no noise at all and all the radiators are nice and hot when the
system's on. Is this really all it takes?

Anyway, I'd like to complete the job and put some cleaner in the system
and then some inhibitor once I've drained all the cleaner out. So my
first question is what sort of cleaner/inhibitor would people recommend.
I was going to go for Fernox but couldn't see it in my local Wickes
although they did have some of their own stuff.

I've always used Fernox products (for 25 years + ) and I know they
work. More expensive than own brands, but in the context of the cost
of replacing a heating system, inconsequential. You can get their
products from B&Q and heating merchants. Sentinel also has a good
reputation.

It may be that the Wickes stuff is the same thing - I have no idea -
but I prefer to stick with what I know works.





My second question is... Is this cleaner/inhibitor stuff okay where
there's a plastic joint? A plumber came round to fix a leak and put a
plastic joint in on one of the pipes under the floor. Is this bad? I've
never liked plastic but unfortunately I wasn't around when he did it and
the whole thing was fixed, paid for and refloored before I had anything
to say about it.


It shouldn't be a problem at all. Do read the cleaner instructions
carefully though. Depending on product, you run it in the system from
anything from a few hours to a week.



--

..andy

flushing central heating - more questions
 

In article ,
am says...
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 14:40:13 +0000 (UTC), John Kelly
wrote:

Well a couple more questions and also an update as to where I've got to.
Last time I asked about draining the system as I couldn't open the
bleeding valves on some of the radiators upstairs. Following advice here
I sprayed some wd40 (found in the garage) on the valves, left a day or
so, bought a brass radiator key from Wickes and opened them up with a
bit of pressure. So thanks to whoever suggested that.

I drained the entire system till the water ran clear just to see how
long it would take and also to make sure I could do it without any
problems and what a difference it's made to the system . The boiler now
makes no noise at all and all the radiators are nice and hot when the
system's on. Is this really all it takes?

Anyway, I'd like to complete the job and put some cleaner in the system
and then some inhibitor once I've drained all the cleaner out. So my
first question is what sort of cleaner/inhibitor would people recommend.
I was going to go for Fernox but couldn't see it in my local Wickes
although they did have some of their own stuff.

I've always used Fernox products (for 25 years + ) and I know they
work. More expensive than own brands, but in the context of the cost
of replacing a heating system, inconsequential. You can get their
products from B&Q and heating merchants. Sentinel also has a good
reputation.

It may be that the Wickes stuff is the same thing - I have no idea -
but I prefer to stick with what I know works.

This is true - maybe I'm losing sight of what I actually want to achieve
in my quest for ever cheaper ways of doing it.

My second question is... Is this cleaner/inhibitor stuff okay where
there's a plastic joint? A plumber came round to fix a leak and put a
plastic joint in on one of the pipes under the floor. Is this bad? I've
never liked plastic but unfortunately I wasn't around when he did it and
the whole thing was fixed, paid for and refloored before I had anything
to say about it.

It shouldn't be a problem at all. Do read the cleaner instructions
carefully though. Depending on product, you run it in the system from
anything from a few hours to a week.

Thanks

--
John Kelly

Remove dimspam if replying by mail