I'm about to finish lining the workshop part of my Garage, recently
built. And then move in.
I'd like to paint something on the floor of the Workshop part, and
apply a "stabiliser" to the Garage part. The idea being to make them
easier to sweep out and stop my Yard Brush wearing the surface.
Any recommendations, and advice?
TIA
--
Olav Marjasoo
Overlooking the Clyde, West Coast of Scotland

"Olav Marjasoo" wrote in message
...
I'm about to finish lining the workshop part of my Garage, recently
built. And then move in.
I'd like to paint something on the floor of the Workshop part, and
apply a "stabiliser" to the Garage part. The idea being to make them
easier to sweep out and stop my Yard Brush wearing the surface.
Any recommendations, and advice?
TIA

A friend put down International garage floor paint in their shed recently
and it seems to be a good job.

Suzanne

On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:37:11 GMT, (Olav Marjasoo)
wrote:

I'm about to finish lining the workshop part of my Garage, recently
built. And then move in.
I'd like to paint something on the floor of the Workshop part, and
apply a "stabiliser" to the Garage part. The idea being to make them
easier to sweep out and stop my Yard Brush wearing the surface.
Any recommendations, and advice?
TIA

I used the two part epoxy system that Decorating Direct (Max Bone)
has.

This involves an initial sealer coat, and then two top coats. The
amount required was as billed on the web site.

This material will fill small imperfections in the floor and will also
stop minor crumbling of the concrete as long as it is not severe.

Like a lot of materials of this type there is a minimum and maximum
time window for recoating - IIRC 16-48 hours.

At the time of doing the job, I had things stored in the garage that
couldn't be left outside, but they only occupied one half.

I therefore arranged things on a time plan and worked backwards to
plan the actual times to paint. Basically this involved, for the
sealer and first top coat, painting one half, moving the contents
after 16 hours and painting the other half; then wait another 16 hours
and moving the contents back.

I arranged times so that the last coat would be done very early one
morning (around 6am) with everything out of the garage, and then all
could go back last thing that night.

Everything went like clockwork and the final result is very pleasing.

The paint costs at least twice the price of the standard single part
paint but I am pretty sure will last more than twice as long.
One of my neighbours did his floor in DIY shed floor paint a couple of
years ago and it's already showing wear. Since this is something of
a PITA job, I'd prefer to spend more and do it less.......

For application, I found that medium pile rollers on a pole were
effective - although you bin them after each coat of course.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:55:10 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:37:11 GMT, (Olav Marjasoo)
wrote:

I'm about to finish lining the workshop part of my Garage, recently
built. And then move in.
I'd like to paint something on the floor of the Workshop part, and
apply a "stabiliser" to the Garage part. The idea being to make them
easier to sweep out and stop my Yard Brush wearing the surface.
Any recommendations, and advice?
TIA

I used the two part epoxy system that Decorating Direct (Max Bone)
has.

This involves an initial sealer coat, and then two top coats. The
amount required was as billed on the web site.

This material will fill small imperfections in the floor and will also
stop minor crumbling of the concrete as long as it is not severe.

Like a lot of materials of this type there is a minimum and maximum
time window for recoating - IIRC 16-48 hours.

At the time of doing the job, I had things stored in the garage that
couldn't be left outside, but they only occupied one half.

I therefore arranged things on a time plan and worked backwards to
plan the actual times to paint. Basically this involved, for the
sealer and first top coat, painting one half, moving the contents
after 16 hours and painting the other half; then wait another 16 hours
and moving the contents back.

I arranged times so that the last coat would be done very early one
morning (around 6am) with everything out of the garage, and then all
could go back last thing that night.

Everything went like clockwork and the final result is very pleasing.

The paint costs at least twice the price of the standard single part
paint but I am pretty sure will last more than twice as long.
One of my neighbours did his floor in DIY shed floor paint a couple of
years ago and it's already showing wear. Since this is something of
a PITA job, I'd prefer to spend more and do it less.......

For application, I found that medium pile rollers on a pole were
effective - although you bin them after each coat of course.


.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Thanks All. I hadn't thought about a roller. Good Idea. They are so
cheap, I agree you can bin them at the end of the job.
--
Olav Marjasoo
Overlooking the Clyde, West Coast of Scotland

Olav Marjasoo wrote:

On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:55:10 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:


On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:37:11 GMT, (Olav Marjasoo)
wrote:


I'm about to finish lining the workshop part of my Garage, recently
built. And then move in.
I'd like to paint something on the floor of the Workshop part, and
apply a "stabiliser" to the Garage part. The idea being to make them
easier to sweep out and stop my Yard Brush wearing the surface.
Any recommendations, and advice?
TIA

I used the two part epoxy system that Decorating Direct (Max Bone)
has.

This involves an initial sealer coat, and then two top coats. The
amount required was as billed on the web site.

This material will fill small imperfections in the floor and will also
stop minor crumbling of the concrete as long as it is not severe.

Like a lot of materials of this type there is a minimum and maximum
time window for recoating - IIRC 16-48 hours.

At the time of doing the job, I had things stored in the garage that
couldn't be left outside, but they only occupied one half.

I therefore arranged things on a time plan and worked backwards to
plan the actual times to paint. Basically this involved, for the
sealer and first top coat, painting one half, moving the contents
after 16 hours and painting the other half; then wait another 16 hours
and moving the contents back.

I arranged times so that the last coat would be done very early one
morning (around 6am) with everything out of the garage, and then all
could go back last thing that night.

Everything went like clockwork and the final result is very pleasing.

The paint costs at least twice the price of the standard single part
paint but I am pretty sure will last more than twice as long.
One of my neighbours did his floor in DIY shed floor paint a couple of
years ago and it's already showing wear. Since this is something of
a PITA job, I'd prefer to spend more and do it less.......

For application, I found that medium pile rollers on a pole were
effective - although you bin them after each coat of course.


.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Thanks All. I hadn't thought about a roller. Good Idea. They are so
cheap, I agree you can bin them at the end of the job.
--


Only bin the furry bits., The pole you can keep. :-)


Olav Marjasoo
Overlooking the Clyde, West Coast of Scotland