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jr2 jr2 is offline
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Question A Lintel install query...

We will shortly be converting the kitchen room and dining room into one room

requiring the removal of a load bearing single brick wall (3 Metres in length)

the load being joists ... (bedroom joists) that run at right angles across the

top of the brick wall ... obviously a lintel will be installed to support the

joists... OK so the required overlap of the lintel onto pads/base at each end

is I believe 150mm. the 150mm. at one end ...ie. the outside wall of the

house... won't be a problem the problem comes at the internal wall end

where there would only be a 100mm. overlap this is obviously because the

internal wall is only a single brick ... what would you say is the best way of

making up the extra base ?? could we just simply leave a stub wall of half

brick or full brick of the wall that we're taking out at the internal wall end to

form a T Shape (a stubby T shape) and thus comfortably make up the

required 150mm. ... or is there a better looking way / method. or will the

councils building inspector accept the short 100mm. base in the first case.

maybe not... any thoughts ?
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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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Default A Lintel install query...

In article ,
jr2 wrote:
We will shortly be converting the kitchen room and dining room into one
room requiring the removal of a load bearing single brick wall (3 Metres
in length) the load being joists ... (bedroom joists) that run at right
angles across the top of the brick wall ... obviously a lintel will be
installed to support the joists... OK so the required overlap of the
lintel onto pads/base at each end is I believe 150mm. the 150mm. at one
end ...ie. the outside wall of the house... won't be a problem the
problem comes at the internal wall end where there would only be a
100mm. overlap this is obviously because the internal wall is only a
single brick ... what would you say is the best way of making up the
extra base ?? could we just simply leave a stub wall of half brick or
full brick of the wall that we're taking out at the internal wall end to
form a T Shape (a stubby T shape) and thus comfortably make up the
required 150mm. ... or is there a better looking way / method. or will
the councils building inspector accept the short 100mm. base in the
first case. maybe not... any thoughts ?


Best to get a structural engineer in to do the calculations and tell the
type of pad stone required for the internal wall.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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Weatherlawyer
 
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Default A Lintel install query...


jr2 wrote:
We will shortly be converting the kitchen room and dining room into one
room

requiring the removal of a load bearing single brick wall (3 Metres in
length)

the load being joists ... (bedroom joists) that run at right angles
across the

top of the brick wall ... obviously a lintel will be installed to
support the

You are talking abut an RSJ or some sort of purlin not a lintle.
Someone on here posted this page:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...ring_walls.htm

It's certainly worth a look.

You will need to prop the ceilings on both sides with accrows or 3 x 2s
nailed to headers and footplates, whatever. Leave yourself enough space
to work under them.

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jr2 jr2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weatherlawyer
jr2 wrote:
We will shortly be converting the kitchen room and dining room into one
room

requiring the removal of a load bearing single brick wall (3 Metres in
length)

the load being joists ... (bedroom joists) that run at right angles
across the

top of the brick wall ... obviously a lintel will be installed to
support the

You are talking abut an RSJ or some sort of purlin not a lintle.
Someone on here posted this page:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...ring_walls.htm

It's certainly worth a look.

You will need to prop the ceilings on both sides with accrows or 3 x 2s
nailed to headers and footplates, whatever. Leave yourself enough space
to work under them.
Sorry... yes I have the rsj lined up ready to purchase from a guy who has sold quite a few of them to people who have had them ok'd by the council.

The RSJ details are 152x89x16 UB

The council engineer has been informed of this and sounds favourible,
the acros and 5 x 2 s ...etc, won't be a prob. it's just how best to arrange for the base under the end of the rsj which is poking thro' the single brick wall... whereby we have 150mm. to rest on.

and the important thing is to get the rsj inside of the acros ready to lift into pos.
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Phil
 
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Default A Lintel install query...

The 1/2 brick wall may not be strong enough to carry the RSJ and it's
imposed loads - you will need a structural engineer to show this and
provide a solution.



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Set Square
 
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Default A Lintel install query...

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Phil wrote:

The 1/2 brick wall may not be strong enough to carry the RSJ and it's
imposed loads - you will need a structural engineer to show this and
provide a solution.


If it's only holding up a floor - and not any other brickwork and/or
supporting the roof - it will probably be ok. After all, the other end of
the RSJ will probably only be supported by the inner leaf of the cavity
wall, which is - in effect - a single brick wall. You don't get much support
from a cavity!
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Chris Bacon
 
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Default A Lintel install query...

Set Square wrote:
Phil wrote:
The 1/2 brick wall may not be strong enough to carry the RSJ and it's
imposed loads - you will need a structural engineer to show this and
provide a solution.


If it's only holding up a floor - and not any other brickwork and/or
supporting the roof - it will probably be ok. After all, the other end of
the RSJ will probably only be supported by the inner leaf of the cavity
wall, which is - in effect - a single brick wall. You don't get much support
from a cavity!


He could always build up a pier for extra support.
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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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Default A Lintel install query...

In article ,
Chris Bacon wrote:
If it's only holding up a floor - and not any other brickwork and/or
supporting the roof - it will probably be ok. After all, the other end
of the RSJ will probably only be supported by the inner leaf of the
cavity wall, which is - in effect - a single brick wall. You don't get
much support from a cavity!


He could always build up a pier for extra support.


Yes - but this would look unsightly. Best get a structural engineer in.
The BCO will probably insist you do anyway.

--
*Laugh alone and the world thinks you're an idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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jr2 jr2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
The 1/2 brick wall may not be strong enough to carry the RSJ and it's
imposed loads - you will need a structural engineer to show this and
provide a solution.
yes but it will be full brick "pier" wall plus the existing single brick wall...
and the "pier" wall will be tied in with "frame cramps".
okeedokee...
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Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr2
We will shortly be converting the kitchen room and dining room into one room

requiring the removal of a load bearing single brick wall (3 Metres in length)

the load being joists ... (bedroom joists) that run at right angles across the

top of the brick wall ... obviously a lintel will be installed to support the

joists... OK so the required overlap of the lintel onto pads/base at each end

is I believe 150mm. the 150mm. at one end ...ie. the outside wall of the

house... won't be a problem the problem comes at the internal wall end

where there would only be a 100mm. overlap this is obviously because the

internal wall is only a single brick ... what would you say is the best way of

making up the extra base ?? could we just simply leave a stub wall of half

brick or full brick of the wall that we're taking out at the internal wall end to

form a T Shape (a stubby T shape) and thus comfortably make up the

required 150mm. ... or is there a better looking way / method. or will the

councils building inspector accept the short 100mm. base in the first case.

maybe not... any thoughts ?
So am I right in thinking you will be making a `T` shaped pad stone?

The leg underneath the UB will be 315mm? (215mm (one brick) + 100mm (the wall it is perpendicular to))

Make it 300mm wide across the back and at least 150mm (2 courses) deep and you will have no probs. Use a good strong mix concrete like C30 to construct the padstone then the spread of the load will be more than adequate. This is based on the fact that it is a small steel section in the first place spanning 3m, so the loading is not astronomical at each end. If the floor above is only typical joist and floor board construction with a relatively low live load then cool. If you have a water bed or similar heavy load directly above and adjacent to this area then you mak have problems justifying the forces


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jr2 jr2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordless Crazy
So am I right in thinking you will be making a `T` shaped pad stone?

The leg underneath the UB will be 315mm? (215mm (one brick) + 100mm (the wall it is perpendicular to))

Make it 300mm wide across the back and at least 150mm (2 courses) deep and you will have no probs. Use a good strong mix concrete like C30 to construct the padstone then the spread of the load will be more than adequate. This is based on the fact that it is a small steel section in the first place spanning 3m, so the loading is not astronomical at each end. If the floor above is only typical joist and floor board construction with a relatively low live load then cool. If you have a water bed or similar heavy load directly above and adjacent to this area then you mak have problems justifying the forces
yes all the way... T shaped pad stone... as you say there is no real length involved... but in fact you're uncannily correct about everything including the water bed... so the way I see it either the council ok it or the water bed might have to go (it's 15 year old in any case.)
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