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Frank W
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:10:19 +0100, "Eric the Red"
wrote:

Not wanting to sound like I am bragging but I think I am quite good at diy
woodworking. In my time I have built plenty of units, shelves, door frames
and put up lots of skirtting and the like. I am usually pleased with the
results of the actual woodworking standard, things are square, no gaps and
they are solid enough. Where I do get disappointed is when I have painted
what I have done, it just never looks that good. I take my time not to get
runs and work the paint to take off any excess.

Anyone got any good tips as I am sure I am not the only one not happy with
the quality of a painted finish.


Yes. Don't use brushes. Learn to spray-paint. If you must apply paint
using a bristled implement try paint pads or rollers.

Frank
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Frank W
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:42:59 +0100, "Eric the Red"
wrote:

Frank, your comments on paint pads is interesting. I have used these for
emulsioning walls and been pleased with the results. Being quick, less messy
than a roller and gave good coverage. Just never thought to use them on
gloss work.

For my last project a friend did suggest spray painting so I got a can of
spray from a diy store. Yes the coat of paint was smoother but the coverage
was patchy and would have required at least another 2 cans to give a decent
coat. At around £6 a can I thought this was an expensive route to take for
want is not a big unit so ended sanding and painting by hand.

Eric.



Eric, I used to be a professional pseudo-antique furnitue finisher
making pieces for museum displays. A chippy would knock the piece up
in plywood and it was my job to make it look like an ancient, genuine
Tudor, or Victorian or whatever period piece. I remember I always used
a spray gun, and finished most things in cellulose. Cellulose as you
probably know is what they uised to finish cars with in the old days.
It sprays nicely, and is very easy to rub down between coats, and the
equipment cleans up easily because cellulose remans soluble even after
it dries. Clear cellulose can be mixed with colours to produce the
wood effects you want. I used to buy all my tins of cellulose from a
car refinishing supplies shop. I suspect they still sell it, as it is
good for touch-up work. You also buy your cellulose thinners from the
same place. You can (if you really hunt around) still buy cellulose in
spray cans, but of course there is one big, big disadvantage in doing
that: you can't mix up your own colours. Also, with a spray gun and an
airbrush, you have much better control. You can, for axample, create a
darker, aged patina in the little nooks and crannies of your piece

As for paint pads, yes, you can use them for most kinds of oil-based
paints and varnishes. In fact, today, I have been varnishing my
104-year old floorboards using paint pads. Much nicer to use than a
brush: no brush strokes and no loose hairs coming adrift.

HTH

Frank
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Stephen Hull
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

In message
"Eric the Red" wrote:

Not wanting to sound like I am bragging but I think I am quite good at diy
woodworking. In my time I have built plenty of units, shelves, door frames
and put up lots of skirtting and the like. I am usually pleased with the
results of the actual woodworking standard, things are square, no gaps and
they are solid enough. Where I do get disappointed is when I have painted
what I have done, it just never looks that good. I take my time not to get
runs and work the paint to take off any excess.

Anyone got any good tips as I am sure I am not the only one not happy with
the quality of a painted finish.

At first I thought it was cheap brushes then the quality of the paint. My
painting is better but I think still room for improvement.

For what it's worth you can produce brush work with absolutely no brush
marks showing. You should use a decent quality paint and an equal choice
in the quality of paintbrush will help.

You need the slower drying linseed oil based paint that gives wider open
times helping to eliminate brush marks completely.

A few tips on brushing methods can be found he
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/brush.html

Steve.


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Woodspoiler
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

I've been using a mini foam roller and water-based gloss with
good results. The finish is slightly dimpled but I happen to like
it that way.

Regarding cellulose, is the finish hardwearing enough for fitted
furniture used every day, for example?

Is it feasible to spray an assembled piece of work in-situ - for
instance the guts of a large fitted wardrobe - and get a decent
finish right into the corners? I realise you'd have to mask off
beforehand.

W.


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Sean Delere
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

Yes. Don't use brushes. Learn to spray-paint. If you must apply paint
using a bristled implement try paint pads or rollers.


I have been using foam brushes for stains and varnishes for the exact same
problems the OP had with brushes. I get them from the local pound shop in
packs of 20 in 3 different sizes so I have never bothered cleaning one.

The results are on a par with a gloss roller but much easier to use.

Sean




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Frank W
 
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Default Avoiding brush stokes - getting a good painted finish

On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 20:06:08 +0000 (UTC), "Woodspoiler"
wrote:

I've been using a mini foam roller and water-based gloss with
good results. The finish is slightly dimpled but I happen to like
it that way.

Regarding cellulose, is the finish hardwearing enough for fitted
furniture used every day, for example?


Yes, because it is much harder than French polish for example.

Is it feasible to spray an assembled piece of work in-situ - for
instance the guts of a large fitted wardrobe - and get a decent
finish right into the corners?


I seem to recall having a problem with spraying interior corners
evenly. I can't remember if I overcame that problem by refining my
technique somehow. I suspect I did. I suspect the trick is to spray
into the angle first using a narrow spray and a smaller spray gun,
then spray the large areas afterwards. If you do have a problem with
it, why not spray the inside of the panels *before* assembly?
Alternatively, paint the inside using paint pads and something other
than cellulose (stain/varnish for example)...

HTH

Frank



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