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Cleaning stainless steel
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair |
Cleaning stainless steel
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair I think you can get stainless steel cleaner, but i've not used that in a while. Baby oil works quite well, but i'm not sure if it's OK on bits that might get hot. HTH |
Cleaning stainless steel
Blair wrote: We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left microfibre 'e-cloth'. John Lewis and Lakeland sell them - really good for windows too. |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair" wrote:
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Anything that shifts oily grease will do it. You're never going to keep it clean because a cooker hood always has enough oil film on it from cooking to show prints. If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. If it's stained or burned, then a Garryflex block (rubber eraser with abrasive grit in it) will re-finish stainless to a good brushed or mirror finish. You'll need to passivate it afterwards with citric acid (easy, Google) or else the bare stainless will stain quickly. |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, Blair wrote:
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Cleaning it is one thing. Proprietary cleaners will take off finger marks, especially if followed up with paper towel. Any shiny surface will show up fingerprints to some degree or another. Polishing it (which will make any prints more evident) can be done with *very* fine abrasives, 12,000 gauge or so. -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote: [SS] If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
"John Schmitt" wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote: [SS] If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS That problem is now well known on boats - it has led to a few total loss accidents though when keels have fallen off. http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...rShoeBolts.jpg -- |
Cleaning stainless steel
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left I cleaned a kitchen sink using a tube of chrome polish I found. The result was stunning. the kitchen sink was old but it polished to a showroom finish. |
Cleaning stainless steel
Blair wrote:
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair Bleach. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
Cleaning stainless steel
My son uses WD40.
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Cleaning stainless steel
"stoker" wrote in message oups.com... My son uses WD40. Isn't it wonderful I now have methods to clean Stainless Steel. I have passed on the list to my wife who asked me the question. She will make the decision. Thanks to all for your replies Blair |
Cleaning stainless steel
Blair wrote:
"stoker" wrote in message oups.com... My son uses WD40. Isn't it wonderful I now have methods to clean Stainless Steel. I have passed on the list to my wife who asked me the question. She will make the decision. Thanks to all for your replies Blair I'd leave the WD40 out of it, summat to do with the chemicals? -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
Cleaning stainless steel
John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote: [SS] If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS John Schmitt It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. Interesting experience buying citric acid from SavaCentre pharmacy. No comment till I asked for *two* lots of 100gms. "What are you using it for?". "To dissolve cocaine" "Naaah, you don't look like that sort of person" Shares a smile with her colleague and hands me the packages. |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:41:37 +0100, Peter
wrote: I cleaned a kitchen sink using a tube of chrome polish I found. Autosol ? That's a polish with very hard abrasive in it, because it's intended for pure chrome, not necessarily stainless. It's works fine on many metals, but it's usually slower and certainly more expensive than it needs to be. |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:03:07 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote: If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. As John said, it's particularly good on iron oxides. Its only real use as a wood bleach is for removing metal stains, even blue iron stain on oak. It's good on hardwood decking, but can be a bit harsh on resinous softwood (larch) decking. If you do use it on teak or brownwood kurtzii, then it's important to re-oil the finish afterwards. |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:07:57 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby
wrote: We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair Bleach. Excellent. Not. Chlorides are excellent corrosive agents for most metals. While bleach is hypochlorite, it degenerates to the chloride both spontaneously and in contact with reducing agents. As it does this, the potential for an electrochemical cell exists. For machining SS, chlorinated cutting fluids are normally used to prevent the (almost instantaneous) formation of the very hard chromium oxide layer by instead forming the chloride. The chloride is soft and so the tool life is greatly prolonged. John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote: Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood) stains a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the oak will react with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck and give it a bit of salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain. Again the oxalic acid forms a metastable complex which is colourless. Being metastable, the colour will return in time and require a further application. John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:07:57 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote: We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair Bleach. Excellent. Not. Chlorides are excellent corrosive agents for most metals. While bleach is hypochlorite, it degenerates to the chloride both spontaneously and in contact with reducing agents. As it does this, the potential for an electrochemical cell exists. For machining SS, chlorinated cutting fluids are normally used to prevent the (almost instantaneous) formation of the very hard chromium oxide layer by instead forming the chloride. The chloride is soft and so the tool life is greatly prolonged. John Schmitt Hmmm! my sink is still in its pristine condition from new 4 years ago, allways bleach it down after washing up also makes the taps sparkle as does the cutlery. In the very long term your probably right, but hey i'm not interested with the boring science of it all. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
Cleaning stainless steel
John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble wrote: Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood) stains a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the oak will react with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck and give it a bit of salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain. Again the oxalic acid forms a metastable complex which is colourless. Being metastable, the colour will return in time and require a further application. John Schmitt You must have really pi**ed your parents off. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair"
wrote: We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair Cillit bang works well here! |
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Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:03:07 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote: John Schmitt wrote: On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote: [SS] If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket will have it. Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS John Schmitt It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. Interesting experience buying citric acid from SavaCentre pharmacy. No comment till I asked for *two* lots of 100gms. "What are you using it for?". "To dissolve cocaine" "Naaah, you don't look like that sort of person" Shares a smile with her colleague and hands me the packages. Same with meths in Boots. "I have to ask what you want it for?" "I'm going to drink it". Out I go with it, and not another word. :)) (I must look rough!) Hey-ho |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 16:37:28 +0100, Sean Mc
wrote: Another thumbs up for Barkeepers friend.....Asda sell it Not to me they don't - I'm not shopping at Walmart! |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair"
wrote: We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left Blair I've had great results using Hagesan HG Steel Polish. www.HGinternational.com is quoted on the bottle, but I bought the stuff a few years ago... -- Frank Erskine |
Cleaning stainless steel
John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble wrote: Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the hydrated oxides of iron. It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach. It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood) stains a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the oak will react with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck and give it a bit of salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain. Again the oxalic acid forms a metastable complex which is colourless. Being metastable, the colour will return in time and require a further application. John Schmitt I imagine most of what people would want to clean from decking wouldn't be iron stains, and most of the decking wouldn't be hardwood. So, what else is special about oxalic that it's sold as a cleaner for decking, the bulk of which is likely to be softwood? |
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Then don't..........whats wrong with Asda / Walmart????? Sean |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:17:03 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote: I imagine most of what people would want to clean from decking wouldn't be iron stains, and most of the decking wouldn't be hardwood. So, what else is special about oxalic that it's sold as a cleaner for decking, the bulk of which is likely to be softwood? Not a lot. It tends to lighten up grey weathered wood a bit, and disodium peroxydicarbonate is rather more effective, hydrolysing in water to give hydrogen peroxide. The only real way to properly restore the surface is with the traditional sailors prayerbook or bible. Nothing particularly religious, just blocks of stone, but using them got the sailors on their knees. Nowadays long-handled ones are supplied so you can remain standing. John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 16:06:40 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby
wrote: [chemistry] You must have really pi**ed your parents off. Bearing in mind that one was a university lecturer and the other a teacher, probably not too much. I believe I was six when my father did finally get a little tired of me asking too many questions and took me down to the local library and introduced me to the librarian, a kindly grey-haired woman who helped me to use the library, particularly when she showed me how to use the dewey decimal system. I remember some strange looks from adults when I was asking for them to reach down books you would not associate with small boys, like Euclidean geometry or how to learn Italian. As it happened my father was set to be going to Italy in the not too distant future, and taking the family with him. The family seem to have a flair for learning languages, my brother can do about a dozen and my seven-year-old niece three. John Schmitt -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
Cleaning stainless steel
"John Schmitt" wrote:
On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:17:03 +0100, Stuart Noble wrote: The only real way to properly restore the surface is with the traditional sailors prayerbook or bible. Nothing particularly religious, just blocks of stone, but using them got the sailors on their knees. Nowadays long-handled ones are supplied so you can remain standing. To the dismay of Dr Drivel who always fancied a sailor with a wiggling arse :-) -- |
Cleaning stainless steel
Had some of this under the kitchen sink for years - it's fantastic on
stainless steel. www.sheilashine.com |
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