Sunvic Programmable Room Thermostat TLX 6501 (revisited)
 

Hi,

I've been reading the forum around the TLX 6510 and came across this useful thread:
http://www.diybanter.com/showthread.php?t=2967

I have an old Honeywell T6360B room thermostat and I'm in the middle of decorating. I'm trying to get something that looks a bit nicer (and digital, too) and I've been to B&Q and bought a Sunvic TLX 6501.

The problem I'm facing is this:

The Honeywell thermostat has 3 wires (blue, brown and yellow), which I believe are (taken from thread above):

Blue - Neutral
Brown - CH on (i.e. permanent live)
Yellow/Green - switched live

It's wired as follows (from left to right)

Earth
2 Blue
3 Yellow
4
1 Red
5 Not used (no terminal attached)
6 Not used (no terminal attached)

(I believe that 5 and 6 are for an optional LED, which this model doesn't have).

The new Sunvic TLX 6501 has 3 terminals (although the thread I mentioned above suggests that only 2 are used).

Based on my current setup with the Honeywell, can anyone help me decipher which wires to use and which colours go where?

The Sunvic has the following options:
NO
COM
NC

I'm hoping that what I've bought will still do the same job as the old analogue Honeywell, but the advantage of this is that during the colder months, I can leave the heating on all day (we don't normally do this) and have it automatically set lower during the night and warmer during the day.

Thanks for your help.
Matt

Sunvic Programmable Room Thermostar TLX 6501 (revisited)
 

Hi,

Just bought the Sunvic myself from B&Q to replace an old 3 wire thermostat
and it works a treat.

I have a new combi fitted which I have set to "Constant" in order that the
Sunvic can control the heating.

My old connections were Live, Neutral and Heat. I connected the Live to the
COM terminal and Heat (for switching the heting on) to the NO connection.
The Neutral is not required for this type of thermostat and I have safely
terminated that wire.

All works great and it looks quiet cool too.

Andy


"DIY-Matt" wrote in message
...

Hi,

I've been reading the forum around the TLX 6510 and came across this
useful thread:
http://www.diybanter.com/showthread.php?t=2967

I have an old Honeywell T6360B room thermostat and I'm in the middle of
decorating. I'm trying to get something that looks a bit nicer (and
digital, too) and I've been to B&Q and bought a Sunvic TLX 6501.

The problem I'm facing is this:

The Honeywell thermostat has 3 wires (blue, brown and yellow), which I
believe are (taken from thread above):

Blue - Neutral
Brown - CH on (i.e. permanent live)
Yellow/Green - switched live

It's wired as follows (from left to right)

Earth
2 Blue
3 Yellow
4
1 Red
5 Not used (no terminal attached)
6 Not used (no terminal attached)

(I believe that 5 and 6 are for an optional LED, which this model
doesn't have).

The new Sunvic TLX 6501 has 3 terminals (although the thread I
mentioned above suggests that only 2 are used).

Based on my current setup with the Honeywell, can anyone help me
decipher which wires to use and which colours go where?

The Sunvic has the following options:
NO
COM
NC

I'm hoping that what I've bought will still do the same job as the old
analogue Honeywell, but the advantage of this is that during the colder
months, I can leave the heating on all day (we don't normally do this)
and have it automatically set lower during the night and warmer during
the day.

Thanks for your help.
Matt


--
DIY-Matt

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the response. I've finished decorating where the thermastat is going, so I wired it up this afternoon. All seems to have gone well, although I have noticed the following:

Evening (econo) Temperature is set to 17°c
Daytime (Comfort) Temperature is set to 20°c

When the thermostat knocks my heating on (and it does this correctly when the temperature drops below 20°c in the daytime setting), the rotating fan icon (cooling) is shown, and not the sun icon (heating) as I would have expected.

I've set all the internal dip switches to 1 (Temperature span 1°c, operation mode: heating) but this hasn't changed anything. Just wondering if you'd seen the same or had any ideas?

Would this happen if the wiring was the wrong way round? I'm *assuming* that the red wire was live (I've not connected the blue - neutral - and the yellow is conneted to NO as described.

Cheers,
Matt