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Old October 14th 05, 07:11 PM
Durn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble

I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of
manual)

I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the
next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower.

The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold,
Medium and Hot.

If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord
switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord.

Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red
light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without
electrical power (quoted from the manual).

If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the
Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water.

Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the
light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is
set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot).

This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are
working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn
off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the
fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the
fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is
pulling through.

So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal
switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault
finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the
electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case
off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid!

Thanks in advance,
Durn



  #2   Report Post  
Old October 14th 05, 08:44 PM
Lawrence Milbourn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble


"Durn" wrote in message
...
I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of
manual)

I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the
next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower.

The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings;
Cold, Medium and Hot.

If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord
switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord.

Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red
light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained
without electrical power (quoted from the manual).

If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the
Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water.

Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on,
the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power
setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot).

This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are
working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn
off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the
fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that
the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water
it is pulling through.

So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the
thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not
advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want
to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower
with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That
sounds rather stupid!

Thanks in advance,
Durn

My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The
loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop
sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be
just enough to tighten up the screws in it!

Lawrence


  #3   Report Post  
Old October 14th 05, 09:43 PM
Durn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble

Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning!

Durn

"Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message
...

"Durn" wrote in message
...
I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of
manual)

I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the
next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower.

The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings;
Cold, Medium and Hot.

If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord
switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord.

Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red
light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained
without electrical power (quoted from the manual).

If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the
Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water.

Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on,
the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power
setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot).

This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are
working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn
off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the
fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that
the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water
it is pulling through.

So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the
thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not
advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont
want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the
shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter...
That sounds rather stupid!

Thanks in advance,
Durn

My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The
loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop
sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be
just enough to tighten up the screws in it!

Lawrence



  #4   Report Post  
Old October 16th 05, 08:59 AM
Durn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble

Just to wrap this thread up - I tested the voltage running across the pole
switch, 240v going in and 30v going out! No wonder the light was switching
off whenever the shower switched on! Bought a new pole switch and hey
presto, a working shower again. Thanks for the suggestion about checking
that out!

Durn

"Durn" wrote in message
...
Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning!

Durn

"Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message
...

"Durn" wrote in message
...
I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of
manual)

I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within
the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new
shower.

The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings;
Cold, Medium and Hot.

If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord
switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord.

Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red
light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained
without electrical power (quoted from the manual).

If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the
Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water.

Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on,
the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power
setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot).

This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are
working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to
turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that
the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears
that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the
water it is pulling through.

So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the
thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not
advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont
want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the
shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter...
That sounds rather stupid!

Thanks in advance,
Durn

My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The
loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to
drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It
could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it!

Lawrence





  #5   Report Post  
Old October 16th 05, 02:10 PM
ARWadsworth
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble


"Durn" wrote in message
...
Just to wrap this thread up - I tested the voltage running across the pole
switch, 240v going in and 30v going out! No wonder the light was
switching off whenever the shower switched on! Bought a new pole switch
and hey presto, a working shower again. Thanks for the suggestion about
checking that out!

Durn


I would also check the tightness of the shower cable connections inside the
CU and shower to make sure they are not loose. It will only take a few
minutes.

Adam




  #6   Report Post  
Old December 15th 05, 06:18 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
Durn
 
Posts: n/a
Default Mira Zest trouble

I thought I had replied to this, but obviously not.

Just to close this thread, the problem was indeed the pull switch. I put a
multimeter across the supply and got 240v, put it across the load and got
10v - that would explain why the light went out on the pull switch if the
shower was turned on - all the voltage was being sucked up by the shower, so
there was not enough to light the led in the pull switch!

I bought a new pull switch and all has been well since.

Thanks for the advice.
Durn

"Durn" wrote in message
...
Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning!

Durn

"Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message
...

"Durn" wrote in message
...
I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of
manual)

I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within
the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new
shower.

The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings;
Cold, Medium and Hot.

If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord
switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord.

Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red
light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained
without electrical power (quoted from the manual).

If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the
Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water.

Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on,
the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power
setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot).

This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are
working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to
turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that
the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears
that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the
water it is pulling through.

So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the
thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not
advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont
want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the
shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter...
That sounds rather stupid!

Thanks in advance,
Durn

My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The
loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to
drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It
could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it!

Lawrence







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