Mira Zest trouble
I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working.
(see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of manual) I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower. The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold, Medium and Hot. If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord. Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without electrical power (quoted from the manual). If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water. Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot). This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is pulling through. So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid! Thanks in advance, Durn |
Mira Zest trouble
"Durn" wrote in message ... I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working. (see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of manual) I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower. The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold, Medium and Hot. If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord. Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without electrical power (quoted from the manual). If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water. Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot). This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is pulling through. So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid! Thanks in advance, Durn My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it! Lawrence |
Mira Zest trouble
Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning!
Durn "Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message ... "Durn" wrote in message ... I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working. (see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of manual) I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower. The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold, Medium and Hot. If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord. Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without electrical power (quoted from the manual). If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water. Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot). This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is pulling through. So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid! Thanks in advance, Durn My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it! Lawrence |
Mira Zest trouble
Just to wrap this thread up - I tested the voltage running across the pole
switch, 240v going in and 30v going out! No wonder the light was switching off whenever the shower switched on! Bought a new pole switch and hey presto, a working shower again. Thanks for the suggestion about checking that out! Durn "Durn" wrote in message ... Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning! Durn "Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message ... "Durn" wrote in message ... I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working. (see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of manual) I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower. The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold, Medium and Hot. If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord. Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without electrical power (quoted from the manual). If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water. Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot). This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is pulling through. So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid! Thanks in advance, Durn My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it! Lawrence |
Mira Zest trouble
"Durn" wrote in message ... Just to wrap this thread up - I tested the voltage running across the pole switch, 240v going in and 30v going out! No wonder the light was switching off whenever the shower switched on! Bought a new pole switch and hey presto, a working shower again. Thanks for the suggestion about checking that out! Durn I would also check the tightness of the shower cable connections inside the CU and shower to make sure they are not loose. It will only take a few minutes. Adam |
Mira Zest trouble
I thought I had replied to this, but obviously not.
Just to close this thread, the problem was indeed the pull switch. I put a multimeter across the supply and got 240v, put it across the load and got 10v - that would explain why the light went out on the pull switch if the shower was turned on - all the voltage was being sucked up by the shower, so there was not enough to light the led in the pull switch! I bought a new pull switch and all has been well since. Thanks for the advice. Durn "Durn" wrote in message ... Ah - never thought of that! Thanks - i'll try it in the morning! Durn "Lawrence Milbourn" wrote in message ... "Durn" wrote in message ... I have an old Mira Zest 8.5kW shower which has recently stopped working. (see http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecat...df/p3617_1.pdf for pdf of manual) I dont want to buy a new/replacement shower as I will shortly (within the next 6-9 months) be redocorating the bathroom, including a new shower. The shower is an electric one which has 3 different "power" settings; Cold, Medium and Hot. If I turn the power on via the pull cord, the light on the pull cord switches on - showing that electric is getting to the pull cord. Now, if I turn the shower on with the power setting set to Cold, the red light stays on. Note that the first setting, Cold, can be obtained without electrical power (quoted from the manual). If I now turn the shower up to either Medium or Hot the red light on the Pull cord switches off, and I get no hot water. Now, if I turn the water supply off and leave the electrical supply on, the light on the pull cord always stays on, no matter what the power setting is set to (i.e. Cold, Medium or Hot). This leads me to believe that the Microswitches inside the shower are working fine (otherwise I would expect the light on the pull cord to turn off regardless of whether the water supply was on or off), and that the fault is either the thermal switch, or the heater tank. It appears that the fault only occurs when the shower actually attempts to heat the water it is pulling through. So, my question is (finally!), how can I test if the fault is in the thermal switch, or the heater tank - bearing in mind that I am not advanced in fault finding, but do not mind trying! Obviously, I dont want to turn the electric and water supplies on and then stand in the shower with the case off, trying to fault find with the multimeter... That sounds rather stupid! Thanks in advance, Durn My guess is that you've got a poor connection in your pull switch. The loading thw heater produces is enough to cause the poor connection to drop sufficient pd to put the neon out. Investigate the switch. It could be just enough to tighten up the screws in it! Lawrence |
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