The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less than a
year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the bit where
it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the exposed wires
have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it and he
said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

TIA
Suzanne

In article ,
says...
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less than a
year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the bit where
it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the exposed wires
have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it and he
said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

Solder only really provides an electrical connection - there should be
something else providing mechanical strength to the joint. Presumably
only the very end of the cable is exposed where it enters the plug, and
this isn't enough area to make a good join. Also presumably Dell uses a
proprietary connector so you can't just buy a new one and solder it on.
To avoid the problem in future you could try applying a few layers of
heatshrink tube to the plug/cable end so that stress is spread over a
length of cable rather than all where it enters the plug.

On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 19:04:29 +0100, "Suz" wrote:

The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less than a
year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the bit where
it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the exposed wires
have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it and he
said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

TIA
Suzanne


Solder is intended to ' seal ' a good quality mechanical joint between
two conductors. It has no physical strength and is not meant to carry
current in that sense. Such faults where wires enter moulded plugs are
non-repairable unless you are prepared to do a real bodge by cutting
into the moulding ( Not recommended )

Andy

On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 19:04:29 +0100, "Suz" wrote:

The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less than a
year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the bit
where
it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the exposed wires
have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it and he
said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

Does one of these fit?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...4240&doy=5m10D
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...2948&doy=5m10D
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...2952&doy=5m10D
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...2951&doy=5m10D

Then you can solder it on the end of the lead.

Suz wrote:

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

The only reason soldering wouldn't work is if your husband can't solder
properly :-(


--
Grunff

Suz wrote:

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

from my past experiences of trying to solder low voltage or thin
stranded wires on flexible things (like speaker wires & stuff) what
happens is..... you solder the wires without problem, but create a stiff
un-flexible joint where solder ends and wires start.

Unless this point is adequately supported past the connection, after
just a few wiggles of the wire it re-fractures losing connection.

Solder it's self is a good conductor.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)

In article , Grunff
writes
Suz wrote:

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of that
type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

The only reason soldering wouldn't work is if your husband can't solder
properly :-(
bzzzzzt is the correct answer :-!
--
fred

Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the
bit where it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the
exposed wires have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it
and he said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of
that type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

TIA
Suzanne

Seems hubby has not been using flux based solder.

Give him a dig and tell him to do it right. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Grunff wrote:
Suz wrote:

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of
that type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

The only reason soldering wouldn't work is if your husband can't
solder properly :-(

This is true, probably not heating the plug up long enough. Or the joint is
not clean?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade. bare
the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with soldering
iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with the
paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place then put some
more paste on the contacts position wire/s over contacts and apply
soldering iron till the solder melts then withdraw soldering iron but on no
account move the soldered job otherwise dryness occurs.

And make sure the soldering iron is about 15 to 25Watts
jobby. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade. bare
the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with soldering
iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with the
paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place then put some
more paste on the contacts position wire/s over contacts and apply
soldering iron till the solder melts then withdraw soldering iron but on no
account move the soldered job otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me


--
geoff

raden wrote:
In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade.
bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with
soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place
then put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over
contacts and apply soldering iron till the solder melts then
withdraw soldering iron but on no account move the soldered job
otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

Would you care to enlighten us with your rendition of soldering?


--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
raden wrote:
In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade.
bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with
soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place
then put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over
contacts and apply soldering iron till the solder melts then
withdraw soldering iron but on no account move the soldered job
otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

Would you care to enlighten us with your rendition of soldering?

Nah - it's a load of wank [1]

just like using flux paste with modern connectors and cables

[1] - well, I did used to get through a 500g reel / month until I
started paying other people to do it for me

--
geoff

raden wrote:
In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
raden wrote:
In message ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby writes
Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley
blade. bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the
solder with soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place
then put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over
contacts and apply soldering iron till the solder melts then
withdraw soldering iron but on no account move the soldered job
otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

Would you care to enlighten us with your rendition of soldering?

Nah - it's a load of wank [1]

just like using flux paste with modern connectors and cables

[1] - well, I did used to get through a 500g reel / month until I
started paying other people to do it for me

Well the reason I said to the OP to use flux paste is because it sounds as
if he's using a crap solder.
Either that or his soldering iron is too low in wattage for the job
intended. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Suz wrote:

The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
It's a Dell laptop and the leads are notoriously flimsy around the
bit where it plus into the laptop. The insulation has broken and the
exposed wires have been pinging off one by one this last month.

I asked hubby would a drop of solder and loads of tape not sort it
and he said he tried this last time but it didn't work.

My question is why does the solder not work? Is it conductivity of
that type of solder? Is there an easy solution?

It's still under guarantee on your information. Tell Dell(nicely) you
want a new one, but reliable this time!!

Regards
Capitol

In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
raden wrote:
In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
raden wrote:
In message ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby writes
Suz wrote:
The power lead on my laptop has broken again - I replaced it less
than a year ago.
[snip]

If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley
blade. bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the
solder with soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place
then put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over
contacts and apply soldering iron till the solder melts then
withdraw soldering iron but on no account move the soldered job
otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

Would you care to enlighten us with your rendition of soldering?

Nah - it's a load of wank [1]

just like using flux paste with modern connectors and cables

[1] - well, I did used to get through a 500g reel / month until I
started paying other people to do it for me

Well the reason I said to the OP to use flux paste is because it sounds as
if he's using a crap solder.

Then the answer is to use a better quality solder

Flux is the devils jism

I think it's prolly that the soldering technique requires a bit of
practice

Either that or his soldering iron is too low in wattage for the job
intended. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite



--
geoff

raden wrote in :


If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade.
bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with
soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place then
put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over contacts and
apply soldering iron till the solder melts then withdraw soldering
iron but on no account move the soldered job otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

I think I might agree if I knew what bukake is

mike

In message , mike ring
writes
raden wrote in :


If the metal prong is dirty scrape the surface with a stanley blade.
bare the wire and wrap solder around wire then heat the solder with
soldering iron.
Next get some solder flux paste from a local electronics shop, with
the paste rub some on the plugs contacts till it flows into place then
put some more paste on the contacts position wire/s over contacts and
apply soldering iron till the solder melts then withdraw soldering
iron but on no account move the soldered job otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

I think I might agree if I knew what bukake is

Google is your (not work safe) friend


--
geoff

mike ring wrote:

I think I might agree if I knew what bukake is

It appears to be a type of parallel processing...

--
Andy

On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 19:29:24 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:

Solder only really provides an electrical connection - there should be
something else providing mechanical strength to the joint. Presumably
only the very end of the cable is exposed where it enters the plug, and
this isn't enough area to make a good join. Also presumably Dell uses a
proprietary connector so you can't just buy a new one and solder it on.
To avoid the problem in future you could try applying a few layers of
heatshrink tube to the plug/cable end so that stress is spread over a
length of cable rather than all where it enters the plug.

It is a small relief to know that I am not the only one who has bodged up
an electrical connector. As for heatshrink, there is a variety available
with hot-melt glue on the inside which is excellent for the job. Some
years ago I was involved with resistivity measurements of terrain to
locate stratum boundaries.This involved reels of wire which were about
500m long, which were attached to the base unit with "banana" plugs. The
wires were forever being tripped over by students and that heatshrink
meant that the wire did not rip out of the plug. Instead, I ended up
straightening out the plugs.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 19:29:24 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

Solder only really provides an electrical connection - there should
be something else providing mechanical strength to the joint.
Presumably only the very end of the cable is exposed where it enters
the plug, and this isn't enough area to make a good join. Also
presumably Dell uses a proprietary connector so you can't just buy a
new one and solder it on. To avoid the problem in future you could
try applying a few layers of heatshrink tube to the plug/cable end
so that stress is spread over a length of cable rather than all
where it enters the plug.

It is a small relief to know that I am not the only one who has
bodged up an electrical connector. As for heatshrink, there is a
variety available with hot-melt glue on the inside which is excellent
for the job. Some years ago I was involved with resistivity
measurements of terrain to locate stratum boundaries.This involved
reels of wire which were about 500m long, which were attached to the
base unit with "banana" plugs. The wires were forever being tripped
over by students and that heatshrink meant that the wire did not rip
out of the plug. Instead, I ended up straightening out the plugs.

John Schmitt

I'd of thought this was an accident waiting to happen if students where
tripping over wires in the work place.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
o.uk...
John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 19:29:24 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

Solder only really provides an electrical connection - there should
be something else providing mechanical strength to the joint.
Presumably only the very end of the cable is exposed where it enters
the plug, and this isn't enough area to make a good join. Also
presumably Dell uses a proprietary connector so you can't just buy a
new one and solder it on. To avoid the problem in future you could
try applying a few layers of heatshrink tube to the plug/cable end
so that stress is spread over a length of cable rather than all
where it enters the plug.

It is a small relief to know that I am not the only one who has
bodged up an electrical connector. As for heatshrink, there is a
variety available with hot-melt glue on the inside which is excellent
for the job. Some years ago I was involved with resistivity
measurements of terrain to locate stratum boundaries.This involved
reels of wire which were about 500m long, which were attached to the
base unit with "banana" plugs. The wires were forever being tripped
over by students and that heatshrink meant that the wire did not rip
out of the plug. Instead, I ended up straightening out the plugs.

John Schmitt

I'd of thought this was an accident waiting to happen if students where
tripping over wires in the work place.
--

When measuring stratum on rough terrain, it can hardly be described as "the
work place"?

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me


--
geoff

Soap and water and rinse out your mouth immediately!
Geez! That was an image I could do without!

Shocked and horrified,
Suzanne

raden wrote in :

iron but on no account move the soldered job otherwise dryness occurs.

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

I think I might agree if I knew what bukake is

Google is your (not work safe) friend

Oh, gawd, that's even worse than finding out what merkin means

mike

"John Schmitt" wrote in
news
This involved reels of wire
which were about 500m long, which were attached to the base unit with
"banana" plugs.

Gawd, if the reel's 500m long, how the hell much wire was on it.

You haven't got a name for this super heatshring, have you, sounds as
thought I could use some

mike

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 09:55:17 +0100, Andy Wade
wrote:

mike ring wrote:

I think I might agree if I knew what bukake is

It appears to be a type of parallel processing...

I believe it can be serial, too.

[I'll get me coat.]

--
Gentlemen! You can't fight in here; this is the war room

Suz, geoffe:
Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me

Soap and water and rinse out your mouth immediately!
Geez! That was an image I could do without!

Shocked and horrified,
Suzanne

they sure do have some strange ideas over there

NT

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:15:12 +0100, mike ring
wrote:

You haven't got a name for this super heatshring, have you, sounds as
thought I could use some

The manufacturer appears to be Tyco. Available in a diversity of starting
diameters, precut lengths, or in rolls. A quick search on the RS website
for "shrinkwrap adhesive lined" gave several pages of search results.
Presumably the other players in the trade also supply it.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

In article , John
Schmitt writes
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:15:12 +0100, mike ring
wrote:

You haven't got a name for this super heatshring, have you, sounds as
thought I could use some

The manufacturer appears to be Tyco. Available in a diversity of starting
diameters, precut lengths, or in rolls. A quick search on the RS website
for "shrinkwrap adhesive lined" gave several pages of search results.
Presumably the other players in the trade also supply it.

Adhesive lined heatshrink (tubing) is the generic term, I wouldn't use
anything else these days as there is little that you use heatshrink for that
does not benefit from some sort of strain relief, it also seals better than the
much lauded self amalgamating tape.
--
fred

fred wrote:
In article , John
Schmitt writes
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:15:12 +0100, mike ring
wrote:

You haven't got a name for this super heatshring, have you, sounds as
thought I could use some

The manufacturer appears to be Tyco. Available in a diversity of starting
diameters, precut lengths, or in rolls. A quick search on the RS website
for "shrinkwrap adhesive lined" gave several pages of search results.
Presumably the other players in the trade also supply it.

Adhesive lined heatshrink (tubing) is the generic term, I wouldn't use
anything else these days as there is little that you use heatshrink for that
does not benefit from some sort of strain relief, it also seals better than the
much lauded self amalgamating tape.

Better yet, repair the soldered connections, make sure they're good, and
then flood the joint with hot-melt glue.

But even before you re-solder the wires, check whether the tubing is
going to shrink down far enough to grip the cable. If the connector body
is large and the cable is thin, you may need to build up the cable
diameter with smaller heat-shrink or even PVC tape.

As others have said, do not rely on the thin wires or the solder for any
mechanical strength at all. If you can, try to add some reinforcement
before gluing, possibly using very small cable ties and plastic or
wooden "splints".

Then follow-up with the adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing, which will
partially melt the glue underneath and make a very strong bond.

That's about the best it can be bodged.


--
Ian White

In message , Owain
writes
raden wrote:
Would you care to enlighten us with your rendition of soldering?
Nah - it's a load of wank [1]
[1] - well, I did used to get through a 500g reel / month ...

Ah yes, but how many joints were you getting per reel? :-)

A whole new concept in rollups ?

Reflowing e.g. a Puma pcb (about 50 joints) would take about 18" of
18swg solder

.... but I have no idea what length of solder equates to 500g


--
geoff

In message , Suz
writes

Sounds more like bukake than soldering to me


--
geoff

Soap and water and rinse out your mouth immediately!

That has an entirely different name ...

--
geoff

The manufacturer appears to be Tyco. Available in a diversity of
starting diameters, precut lengths, or in rolls. A quick search on
the RS website for "shrinkwrap adhesive lined" gave several pages of
search results. Presumably the other players in the trade also supply
it.

Adhesive lined heatshrink (tubing) is the generic term, I wouldn't use
anything else these days as there is little that you use heatshrink
for that does not benefit from some sort of strain relief, it also
seals better than the much lauded self amalgamating tape.

Thanks, John and fred, must get some next time Matron lets me out

mike

"Ian White" wrote in message
...
fred wrote:
In article , John
Schmitt writes
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:15:12 +0100, mike ring
wrote:

You haven't got a name for this super heatshring, have you, sounds as
thought I could use some

The manufacturer appears to be Tyco. Available in a diversity of starting
diameters, precut lengths, or in rolls. A quick search on the RS website
for "shrinkwrap adhesive lined" gave several pages of search results.
Presumably the other players in the trade also supply it.

Adhesive lined heatshrink (tubing) is the generic term, I wouldn't use
anything else these days as there is little that you use heatshrink for
that
does not benefit from some sort of strain relief, it also seals better
than the
much lauded self amalgamating tape.

Better yet, repair the soldered connections, make sure they're good, and
then flood the joint with hot-melt glue.

But even before you re-solder the wires, check whether the tubing is going
to shrink down far enough to grip the cable. If the connector body is
large and the cable is thin, you may need to build up the cable diameter
with smaller heat-shrink or even PVC tape.

As others have said, do not rely on the thin wires or the solder for any
mechanical strength at all. If you can, try to add some reinforcement
before gluing, possibly using very small cable ties and plastic or wooden
"splints".

Then follow-up with the adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing, which will
partially melt the glue underneath and make a very strong bond.

That's about the best it can be bodged.


Hubby has bodged it in some mysterious way that involves splints and loadsa
tape. Won't tell me what's underneath because "you'll only tell that lot on
uk-d-i-y" and went off muttering bad temperedly "******s", "don't know how
to solder indeed", and "get a life".

Hee hee hee. Much hilarity.

Suzanne