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Tightening a nut without marking it
I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator
valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare |
Mike,
try a fabric or leather strap wrench like you'd use on an oil filter on a car. Chris |
Mike,
try a fabric or leather strap wrench like you'd use on an oil filter on a car. Chris |
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"Michael Chare" wrote in message
... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? The force will be distributed more evenly than with an open ended spanner or wrench-plus-material-between-jaws. |
"rrh" wrote in message .uk... "Michael Chare" wrote in message ... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? The force will be distributed more evenly than with an open ended spanner or wrench-plus-material-between-jaws. Heck of a job to get a ring spanner off a pipe fitting once all is connected! |
Michael Chare wrote:
I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. What nut is it? If it's the one that goes between the valve and the rad., then just get a well-filling spanner with smooth jaws that fits well (even a good adjustable!), and make sure that it really *does* fit well (your adjustable is adjusted properly, you could even take it apart and polish the jaws!), and that the inside of the fitting is *clean*, and that the thread is lightly lubricated with vaseline, and that the "cone" of the "cup and cone" of the joint is clean, blemish-free, and has a bit of vaseline lovingly wiped onto it, and that the joint lines up properly, and just do the thing up finger-tight, and nip it up with your glittering adjustable. These things should *not* need swinging on, just a nip is OK. Remember - "You cannot make a watertight joint *more* watertight". |
Apols., I forgot to mention:
You have had recommendations to use a soft packing piece between the nut and jaws of the doing-up thing. This is *not* on, as the soft thing *will* go through, then the loading upon the very point of the nut will be *greatly* increased, and the chrome will be shgged. |
rrh wrote:
"Michael Chare" wrote... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? It's all right if you can get it on, but afterwards you might not be able to have it off. |
Michael Chare wrote:
I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Oversized open ended spanner with two small pieces of plywood in the jaws. Why do you not want to mark it? |
"ben" wrote in message . uk... Michael Chare wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Oversized open ended spanner with two small pieces of plywood in the jaws. Why do you not want to mark it? Because it's a "*chrome plated* hexagonal nut", I assume on show? |
"Chris Bacon" wrote in message ... rrh wrote: "Michael Chare" wrote... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? It's all right if you can get it on, but afterwards you might not be able to have it off. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ROFLO!!!!!! |
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 21:35:22 +0100, Chris Bacon wrote:
rrh wrote: "Michael Chare" wrote... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? It's all right if you can get it on, but afterwards you might not be able to have it off. Won't matter if he buys enough ring spanners. |
In message , john
writes "rrh" wrote in message o.uk... "Michael Chare" wrote in message ... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? The force will be distributed more evenly than with an open ended spanner or wrench-plus-material-between-jaws. Heck of a job to get a ring spanner off a pipe fitting once all is connected! Better to leave it there as part of the designer fitting plus you know where to find it when the thing leaks -- geoff |
ben wrote:
Michael Chare wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Oversized open ended spanner with two small pieces of plywood in the jaws. wood slips have always worked well for me. But if the wood begins to break through, stop, release pressure, or it'll mark. Obvious nuff really. Hardboard generaly works, ditto formica, thin ply can split. NT |
raden wrote:
Better to leave it there as part of the designer fitting May I suggest Snap-On or Auto-Pro as designer spanners which would complement the designer fittings. My other choice would be Facom for a more Europen styling. Britool for a traditional "english" style Draper or stanley or anyother market stall brand for your typical wickes/B&Q (Thatcherised)council house. -- http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK. http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL! http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers. http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes) |
Suz wrote:
Because it's a "*chrome plated* hexagonal nut", I assume on show? All these crazy ideas. If the spanner is the correct size and of suitable quality and the nut is not done up by a ham-fisted gorilla it will not be marked anyway. It's not like it's made of wax or anything. -- http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK. http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL! http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers. http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes) |
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:41:01 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote: In article , says... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Use a spanner a millimetre oversize and wrap a bit of Fairy Liquid bottle around the nut. Or wrap a bit of old leather belt around the nut and use Mole grips or a Stilson wrench. In my expereince the fastest way to mark a nut is using mole grips I'd go with your orignal idea. Rick |
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
Suz wrote: Because it's a "*chrome plated* hexagonal nut", I assume on show? All these crazy ideas. If the spanner is the correct size and of suitable quality and the nut is not done up by a ham-fisted gorilla it will not be marked anyway. It's not like it's made of wax or anything. have to disagree, it /is/ made of /something/ |
In article ,
rrh wrote: Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? The force will be distributed more evenly than with an open ended spanner or wrench-plus-material-between-jaws. Difficult to use a ring spanner where pipes are involved... -- *Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
In article ,
Michael Chare wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Use a good quality tight fitting spanner whose jaws are as wide as the nut to spread the load. Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Trouble is any soft material is likely to allow the spanner to rotate and damage the edges of the nut. You could try one of those rubber strap wrenches, but I'm not sure it could provide enough torque. -- *Keep honking...I'm reloading. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
In article .com,
wrote: wood slips have always worked well for me. But if the wood begins to break through, stop, release pressure, or it'll mark. Obvious nuff really. Hardboard generaly works, ditto formica, thin ply can split. I'd go for aluminium. That's the traditional materiel for soft jaw vices. -- *Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
In article , news@pen-y-
geulan.com says... On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:41:01 +0100, Rob Morley wrote: In article , says... I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Use a spanner a millimetre oversize and wrap a bit of Fairy Liquid bottle around the nut. Or wrap a bit of old leather belt around the nut and use Mole grips or a Stilson wrench. In my expereince the fastest way to mark a nut is using mole grips Mine too - but not if you use it as I said :-) |
Michael Chare wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare Wrap some electrical insulating tape around the spanner. I have used this method with a good success rate on all my rads. HTH Cheers Richard |
On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 08:06:52 GMT,
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?=22Pet_=40_www=2Egymratz=2Eco=2Euk_=3B=AC=29=2 2?= wrote: Suz wrote: Because it's a "*chrome plated* hexagonal nut", I assume on show? All these crazy ideas. If the spanner is the correct size and of suitable quality and the nut is not done up by a ham-fisted gorilla it will not be marked anyway. It's not like it's made of wax or anything. But knowing "designer" fittings it will probably be chrome plated monkey metal and hence, easily marked.. sponix |
"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message ... But knowing "designer" fittings it will probably be chrome plated monkey metal and hence, easily marked.. Monkey metal. Haven't heardthat for ages! Ah, nostalgia isn't what it used to be ... Mary sponix |
Michael Chare wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. -- Michael Chare I've always used a cotton cloth with an adjustable pipe spanner without problems. |
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article , rrh wrote: Surely a ring spanner of the right size will not mark the nut under normal amounts of torque? The force will be distributed more evenly than with an open ended spanner or wrench-plus-material-between-jaws. Difficult to use a ring spanner where pipes are involved... Not if you use ones that can be unlatched - aircon specialists use them a lot. -- |
john wrote:
Heck of a job to get a ring spanner off a pipe fitting once all is connected! Or did he mean a crow foot spanner? A ring spanner with a gap to get it off the pipe, for them as never seen one :-) Dave |
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:26:07 +0100, "Michael Chare"
wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. Ask the missus - I'm sure she'll be an expert at tightening nuts without marking them (:-) Graham |
Chris Bacon wrote:
Apols., I forgot to mention: You have had recommendations to use a soft packing piece between the nut and jaws of the doing-up thing. This is *not* on, as the soft thing *will* go through, then the loading upon the very point of the nut will be *greatly* increased, and the chrome will be shgged. I see your point, ut have to disagree - I've had success using an adjustable spanner with a single layer of insulation tape over the top (on visible pipe fixings). Chris -- Spamtrap in use To email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder dot co dot uk |
On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:26:07 +0100, "Michael Chare"
wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. http://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=559&L=1 http://www.knipex.de/en/pliers-abc/how-does-it-work-animated-graphics/86-03-250-plier-wrench.html Thomas Prufer |
In message , Thomas Prufer
writes On Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:26:07 +0100, "Michael Chare" wrote: I want to tighten a chrome plated hexagonal nut on a central heating radiator valve without marking it in anyway. (Part of a so called designer fitting.) Any suggestions as to the best ways of doing this? I was considering getting a spanner of the right size and if possible using some thin paper between the spanner and the fitting. http://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=559&L=1 http://www.knipex.de/en/pliers-abc/h...ted-graphics/8 6-03-250-plier-wrench.html Cor ... I always wondered how you do nuts up Hi Thomas -- geoff |
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:55:52 GMT, raden wrote:
I always wondered how you do nuts up Expensively! That thing's forty to fifty Euro, depending on size... Nice though. Some folks said they stopped using spanners once they got one. Cheers, Thomas Prufer |
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