Window hinge - best way of removing
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dorothy Bradbury wrote: I've an upper opening window, downstairs, with seized hinges. o Twin 2.5" bare steel hinge, full compliment of screws (typical!) o Hinges seized, flick penetrating oil released the hinge at least The hinge has dropped about 1/8" or so. o The upper-non-moving hinge plate wobbles in the screws ---- so the window has dropped 1/8" - so re-closing is impossible o Slotted-screws seem very tight indeed & refusing to budget ---- no rot, simply the seized hinge has caused the play over decades Q: What's the best way of getting the screws out? ---- heat with micro-torch/torch + penetrating oil + hours of patience? ---- or grind off hinge-pins-ends & knock pin out, or grind off the hinges-pin? Q: Since 2.5" & 3.0" hinges are similar, can I interchange them? ---- reason is that 3.0" come in Stainless Steel :-) The window only opens to 45 degrees, as it's outer lip hits the frame. What works best? If you can push the dropped hinge up - away from the screws - you may be able to clean up the slots with a padsaw (i.e. a short length of hacksaw blade mounted in a handle). You then need a short cranked screwdriver (sort of Z shaped) which will fit in a confined space and give lots of leverage. It's then a 2-person job - because you need one hand to hold the working end of the screwdriver tightly on the screw, and the other hand to apply torque to the other end of the screwdriver - so you need someone else to support the window. If you can get the screws out, replace them with screws with pozidrive heads. However, you may be able to *tighten* them by the above method without removing them. There's no reason why you can't fit slightly bigger hinges (assuming you can get the windows off). If the existing hinges are recessed into the window and/or frame, you'll need to make the recesses bigger with a chisel. The main problem is going to be getting screws in - due to the constraint of only being able to open the window by 45 degrees. I think I would fit them first to the window - out of the frame. Then mark the hinge and screw positions on the frame. Then take the hinges off the window and screw them to the frame. Then put the screws back in which hold the hinges to the window. That way, you'll have better access whilst actually making the screw holes. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
Window hinge - best way of removing
I've an upper opening window, downstairs, with seized hinges.
o Twin 2.5" bare steel hinge, full compliment of screws (typical!) o Hinges seized, flick penetrating oil released the hinge at least The hinge has dropped about 1/8" or so. o The upper-non-moving hinge plate wobbles in the screws ---- so the window has dropped 1/8" - so re-closing is impossible o Slotted-screws seem very tight indeed & refusing to budget ---- no rot, simply the seized hinge has caused the play over decades Q: What's the best way of getting the screws out? ---- heat with micro-torch/torch + penetrating oil + hours of patience? ---- or grind off hinge-pins-ends & knock pin out, or grind off the hinges-pin? Q: Since 2.5" & 3.0" hinges are similar, can I interchange them? ---- reason is that 3.0" come in Stainless Steel :-) The window only opens to 45 degrees, as it's outer lip hits the frame. What works best? -- Dorothy Bradbury |
Window hinge - best way of removing
Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws?
---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out Yes. I have had to do this many times on window hinges. I suggest though that you first scrape off all paint etc from the screw slots and around the screws and hinges. Also I often find that when I have used a hot air gun to soften the paint to do this, the screws come out more easily. Won't work if the screw slots are badly damaged though. |
Window hinge - best way of removing
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury
wrote: Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws? ---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out May be ok for putting screws *in* - but wouldn't guarantee it not to jump out. Probably better with pozidrive screws. Wouldn't expect it to do much good taking screws *out* - 'cos the hammer action will tend to push the screw back in! Having said that, I don't actually own an impact driver - and others may say that they're the best thing since sliced bread. -- Cheers, Set Square |
Window hinge - best way of removing
If you can push the dropped hinge up - away from the screws - you may be
able to clean up the slots with a padsaw (i.e. a short length of hacksaw blade mounted in a handle). You then need a short cranked screwdriver (sort of Z shaped) which will fit in a confined space and give lots of leverage. Noted on that screwdriver - screw heads are ok & will clean up ok (thankfully). Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws? ---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out It's then a 2-person job - because you need one hand to hold the working end of the screwdriver tightly on the screw, and the other hand to apply torque to the other end of the screwdriver - so you need someone else to support the window. The window will hold itself open, and do so just enough to see the "sill" screws. The window-screws are the ones quite impossible to reach. If you can get the screws out, replace them with screws with pozidrive heads. However, you may be able to *tighten* them by the above method without removing them. Will try both. There's not a lot of There's no reason why you can't fit slightly bigger hinges (assuming you can get the windows off). If the existing hinges are recessed into the window and/or frame, you'll need to make the recesses bigger with a chisel. The main problem is going to be getting screws in - due to the constraint of only being able to open the window by 45 degrees. I think I would fit them first to the window - out of the frame. Then mark the hinge and screw positions on the frame. Then take the hinges off the window and screw them to the frame. Then put the screws back in which hold the hinges to the window. That way, you'll have better access whilst actually making the screw holes. Looks like a 3" stainless (non-ball-bearing) is barely bigger and only about 1mm thicker which is pretty minor to countersink in. I have a 2.5" ready as well. "I may be some time". -- Dorothy Bradbury |
Window hinge - best way of removing
Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury wrote: Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws? ---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out May be ok for putting screws *in* - but wouldn't guarantee it not to jump out. Probably better with pozidrive screws. Wouldn't expect it to do much good taking screws *out* - 'cos the hammer action will tend to push the screw back in! Having said that, I don't actually own an impact driver - and others may say that they're the best thing since sliced bread. Impact drivers are generally used for getting screws or bolts out, (depending on what sort of bit you fit), and they can be extremely effective once you get the hang of them. I have used them to good effect when removing very old and stubborn slot screws from old window frames etc., as well as their more usual engineering (eg automotive) applications. The best place to get them is probably Halfords. Rick |
Window hinge - best way of removing
Window now removed :-)
o Sill provided leverage/bracing without much effort o Older flat-blade screwdriver with a nut part way up it That and some heat-cycling with torch & flick easing oil :-) Now the fun - getting screws out of the window itself! o They've seen a bit of surface corrosion ---- perhaps enough to "stick screw & hinge into one" o So more heat & flick easing oil ---- very narrow slots on these screws Going to use the 2.5" hinge - but with stainless screws. That should stop the screw-to-hinge welding at least. Moral: open your windows regularly. -- Dorothy Bradbury |
Window hinge - best way of removing
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury
wrote: The into-window screws with screwdriver/spanner wouldn't budget. I wouldn't expect them to be much good with money! g -- Cheers, Set Square |
Window hinge - best way of removing
The into-window screws with screwdriver/spanner wouldn't budget.
o Heated them, then soaked them with flick easing oil. o Left to cool for 1hr o Came out as if they'd been screwed into cheese - no effort Going with the 3" stainless hinge after all, since the original 2.5" had the holes in different places on the two halves, so can't just replace. Painter's going to love the state I made of his paint tho tomorrow! -- Dorothy Bradbury |
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