Painting Front door
 

The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has only
had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small cracks have
appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

yitzak wrote:
The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has
only had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small
cracks have appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

Rub it down with wet&dry to get a nice smooth finish and use a GOOD paint
brush with johnson's exterior gloss paint

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
yitzak wrote:

The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has
only had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small
cracks have appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

It depends on the paint. Some paints *claim* to cover in one coat, without
an undercoat - but if it's subject to rain and sunshine, I think I'd use a
conventional paint which *does* require an undercoat.

Either way, you'll need to sand it to provide a key for the new paint. Your
paint tin will tell you what colour undercoat to use - probably grey rather
than white for black paint.

If at all possible, take the door off and lay it on a couple of tressles to
paint it. You'll get a much better finish - with no runs - when it's
horizontal rather than vertical.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 13:01:46 GMT, ben wrote:

yitzak wrote:
The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has
only had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small
cracks have appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

Rub it down with wet&dry to get a nice smooth finish and use a GOOD paint
brush with johnson's exterior gloss paint

Black paint is more likely, than any other colour, to blister/peel if your
door is subjected to prolonged sunshine. Make sure that the wet and dry
rubdown covers every mm of the surface to get a good key for the paint to
stick. Don't expect the paint to smooth out the small cracks. They will
need filling and smoothing.
--
Jim
Tyneside UK

Jim Scott wrote:
On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 13:01:46 GMT, ben wrote:

yitzak wrote:
The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has
only had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small
cracks have appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly
apply another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

Rub it down with wet&dry to get a nice smooth finish and use a GOOD
paint brush with johnson's exterior gloss paint

Black paint is more likely, than any other colour, to blister/peel if
your door is subjected to prolonged sunshine. Make sure that the wet
and dry rubdown covers every mm of the surface to get a good key for
the paint to stick. Don't expect the paint to smooth out the small
cracks. They will need filling and smoothing.

"Black paint is more likely, than any other colour, to blister/peel if your
door is subjected to prolonged sunshine"

What a load of tosh, the reason the painted probably blistered/cracked was
because it was cheap paint used or spors of sap in the wood was still
evident, or even grease from handling the door was not rubbed down with
white spirit before priming.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
ben wrote:


"Black paint is more likely, than any other colour, to blister/peel
if your door is subjected to prolonged sunshine"

What a load of tosh, the reason the painted probably
blistered/cracked was because it was cheap paint used or spors of sap
in the wood was still evident, or even grease from handling the door
was not rubbed down with white spirit before priming.

Black paint will get *hotter* than lighter colours in strong sunlight -
because it absorbs more solar radiation. Whether that makes it more likely
to crack and blister, I don't know - but I would have thought that it was in
with a chance!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In message , ben
writes
"Black paint is more likely, than any other colour, to blister/peel if your
door is subjected to prolonged sunshine"

What a load of tosh,

It certainly isn't. I had some dark blue paint and some light yellow
paint of the same make on similar substrates facing SW, the blue paint
certainly did fail sooner than the yellow, and Dulux for one recommend
not using dark colours on surfaces exposed to lots of sun.

However....

the reason the painted probably blistered/cracked was
because it was cheap paint used or spors of sap in the wood was still
evident, or even grease from handling the door was not rubbed down with
white spirit before priming.

It's quite possible that this is a reason in this case, but that doesn't
mean repainting with black is necessarily a good idea.
--
Chris French

In message . com,
yitzak writes
The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has only
had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat.

That's not necessarily a bad thing. Dulux recommend 2 coats of their
undercoat and one of top coat of their weathersshield paint IIRC.

A few small cracks have
appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it?

Yes. it's as important as the topoat

If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss?

If you want, but I'd use a dark undercoat as well.

Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

don't spil the ship for a happorth of 'tar...


Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

I've always been happy With Weathersheild. The trade one is bit better
probably, they do claim a longer life.
--
Chris French

Thanks

I'll get some wet and dry paper, probably undercoat. Have just found a
Leyland paint shop locally - so will see what they have in..

yitzak wrote:
Thanks

I'll get some wet and dry paper, probably undercoat. Have just found a
Leyland paint shop locally - so will see what they have in..

Put a squirt of washing up liquid in a bucket of water and use the wet&dry
and you'll be suprised how easy it is to get a smooth sanded finish.
work in a circular movement, then when all the door is done wipe down with
a damp cloth.
Before priming wipe door down with white spirits and let it dry out
naturally.
I'd use a roller to apply the primer and paint brush for gloss.

That should do ya for at least 3 years. :-)

On 19 Aug 2005 05:52:59 -0700, "yitzak"
wrote:

The door is in good condition, was new a few years back and so has only
had one coat of gloss on top of the undercoat. A few small cracks have
appeared. Want to paint it again.

Do I need to undercoat it? If so is it ok to undercoat with a white
undercoat and then paint it with black gloss? Or can I directly apply
another coat of gloss seing as its in good condition

Any recommendations of paint would be appreciated?

Consider using a flexible exterior gloss. It will last longer than
ordinary gloss.

What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to (I
guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a standard
weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?

ben wrote:
yitzak wrote:

Thanks

I'll get some wet and dry paper, probably undercoat. Have just found a
Leyland paint shop locally - so will see what they have in..


Put a squirt of washing up liquid in a bucket of water and use the wet&dry
and you'll be suprised how easy it is to get a smooth sanded finish.
work in a circular movement, then when all the door is done wipe down with
a damp cloth.
Before priming wipe door down with white spirits and let it dry out
naturally.
I'd use a roller to apply the primer and paint brush for gloss.

That should do ya for at least 3 years. :-)

Ian Cornish" "icornish at talk21 dot com wrote:
What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to (I
guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a standard
weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?


[snip]

Using wet&dry(carborundum)sand paper is basically for paint on metal and
gives a very smooth finish, with use of the finer wet&dry and a bucket of
water and washing up liquid makes the job much easier to sand the paint
rather than the conventional wood sandpapering.

You just keep dipping the wet&dry in the water and apply to the paint
surface in a circular motion, don't rub too hard as you don't want erase
the paint fully.
Basically what your achieving is getting a mirror like finish on the final
coat of paint.
This technique is used by the old coach builders.

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 19:15:06 GMT, Jim Scott wrote:

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 18:53:35 GMT, ben wrote:

Ian Cornish" "icornish at talk21 dot com wrote:
What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to (I
guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a standard
weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?


[snip]

Using wet&dry(carborundum)sand paper is basically for paint on metal and
gives a very smooth finish, with use of the finer wet&dry and a bucket of
water and washing up liquid makes the job much easier to sand the paint
rather than the conventional wood sandpapering.

You just keep dipping the wet&dry in the water and apply to the paint
surface in a circular motion, don't rub too hard as you don't want erase
the paint fully.
Basically what your achieving is getting a mirror like finish on the final
coat of paint.
This technique is used by the old coach builders.

He will need to know which grade to use?
I'm not sure, but since I would buy my W&D paper from my local car shop I
would expect them to advise me. Mind you there's probably a website. There
usually is.

Like this http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/pai...ng/sanding.htm
--
Jim
Tyneside UK

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 18:53:35 GMT, ben wrote:

Ian Cornish" "icornish at talk21 dot com wrote:
What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to (I
guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a standard
weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?


[snip]

Using wet&dry(carborundum)sand paper is basically for paint on metal and
gives a very smooth finish, with use of the finer wet&dry and a bucket of
water and washing up liquid makes the job much easier to sand the paint
rather than the conventional wood sandpapering.

You just keep dipping the wet&dry in the water and apply to the paint
surface in a circular motion, don't rub too hard as you don't want erase
the paint fully.
Basically what your achieving is getting a mirror like finish on the final
coat of paint.
This technique is used by the old coach builders.

He will need to know which grade to use?
I'm not sure, but since I would buy my W&D paper from my local car shop I
would expect them to advise me. Mind you there's probably a website. There
usually is.
--
Jim
Tyneside UK

Jim Scott wrote:
On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 18:53:35 GMT, ben wrote:

Ian Cornish" "icornish at talk21 dot com wrote:
What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to
(I guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a standard
weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?


[snip]

Using wet&dry(carborundum)sand paper is basically for paint on metal
and gives a very smooth finish, with use of the finer wet&dry and a
bucket of water and washing up liquid makes the job much easier to
sand the paint rather than the conventional wood sandpapering.

You just keep dipping the wet&dry in the water and apply to the paint
surface in a circular motion, don't rub too hard as you don't want
erase the paint fully.
Basically what your achieving is getting a mirror like finish on the
final coat of paint.
This technique is used by the old coach builders.

He will need to know which grade to use?
I'm not sure, but since I would buy my W&D paper from my local car
shop I would expect them to advise me. Mind you there's probably a
website. There usually is.

Grade 180 is quite adequate for this but must be wetted then applied.

Jim Scott wrote:
On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 19:15:06 GMT, Jim Scott wrote:

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 18:53:35 GMT, ben wrote:

Ian Cornish" "icornish at talk21 dot com wrote:
What do you mean by "wet and dry" sanding ?

I'm thinking of doing my front door soon, and was just planning to
(I guess) normal dry sand it smooth, and then paint it in a
standard weathershield paint (it's a metal door).
What would wet and dry sanding do, and how do I do it ?


[snip]

Using wet&dry(carborundum)sand paper is basically for paint on
metal and gives a very smooth finish, with use of the finer wet&dry
and a bucket of water and washing up liquid makes the job much
easier to sand the paint rather than the conventional wood
sandpapering.

You just keep dipping the wet&dry in the water and apply to the
paint surface in a circular motion, don't rub too hard as you don't
want erase the paint fully.
Basically what your achieving is getting a mirror like finish on
the final coat of paint.
This technique is used by the old coach builders.

He will need to know which grade to use?
I'm not sure, but since I would buy my W&D paper from my local car
shop I would expect them to advise me. Mind you there's probably a
website. There usually is.

Like this
http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/pai...ng/sanding.htm

No like this :-)
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/prep.html

While we are on this subject, what would be the best type of paint
system to use on a new hardwood (don't know which wood) door?
I would just use a microporous stain like the current door, but SHMBO
wants a gloss finish this time. (I think Red was discussed...)
At least I managed to persuade her that we really *didn't* want a uPVC
door ;)

Lee
--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.