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thebunuk August 16th 05 09:01 AM

staining pine floorboards
 
Hi there

this is my first post and I wondered if anyone could give me some advice.

I have just finished sanding the floorboards in my Victorian house, and they have come out a beautiful light yellow pine colour.

I have just been experimenting in one corner with various types of varnish - ronseal clear satin outdoor varnish, sadolin clear and danish oil and all are making the wood come out much darker and very orange. I've noticed that even when I just get it a bit wet it goes the same dark orange colour.

Is this just the nature of the wood, or is there any way I can seal it and keep the light colour?

Cheers
vicky

Grumps August 16th 05 04:20 PM

Try one of the water based polyurethanes ie Boni Kemi/Jumkers
Strong/Beckers, Ronseal Quickcure, as they are water based they don't colour
like the spirit based..
Grumps


"thebunuk" wrote in message
...

Hi there

this is my first post and I wondered if anyone could give me some
advice.

I have just finished sanding the floorboards in my Victorian house, and
they have come out a beautiful light yellow pine colour.

I have just been experimenting in one corner with various types of
varnish - ronseal clear satin outdoor varnish, sadolin clear and danish
oil and all are making the wood come out much darker and very orange.
I've noticed that even when I just get it a bit wet it goes the same
dark orange colour.

Is this just the nature of the wood, or is there any way I can seal it
and keep the light colour?

Cheers
vicky


--
thebunuk




Rob Morley August 16th 05 05:40 PM

In article , "thebunuk"
says...

Hi there

this is my first post and I wondered if anyone could give me some
advice.

Yes - don't use diybanter.com :-)

Andy Dingley August 16th 05 09:00 PM

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:01:39 +0100, thebunuk
wrote:

Is this just the nature of the wood, or is there any way I can seal it
and keep the light colour?


A water-based product will be lighter than most other varnishes. Some
darkening is inevitable.

BY FAR the best product to use is Rustin's Floorcoat. It's acid
catalysed (you mix in a little pot of goop before starting) and _stinks_
when using it, but this goes away completely after a few hours. It is
harder, better looking and much longer lasting than the competition. Use
3 coats. Lesser varnishes may want more coats.

Stuart Noble August 17th 05 12:20 PM

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:01:39 +0100, thebunuk
wrote:


Is this just the nature of the wood, or is there any way I can seal it
and keep the light colour?



A water-based product will be lighter than most other varnishes. Some
darkening is inevitable.

BY FAR the best product to use is Rustin's Floorcoat. It's acid
catalysed (you mix in a little pot of goop before starting) and _stinks_
when using it, but this goes away completely after a few hours. It is
harder, better looking and much longer lasting than the competition. Use
3 coats. Lesser varnishes may want more coats.


I'll vouch for that, and it doesn't change the colour at all. I prefer
to apply it with a rag to keep the mellow/just sanded look. Any varnish
starts to look artificial if you allow it to build up on the surface.

[email protected] August 17th 05 12:59 PM

I used a water based varnish in my childrens bedroom to avoid the
smells and it was rubbish. After a couple or years there are great
patches where the varnish has worn through. I am now stuck with
revarnishing with oil based varnish which will look patchey or with
waterbased and hope that it hides the patches and it wont last.

Kevin


Stuart Noble August 17th 05 04:26 PM

wrote:
I used a water based varnish in my childrens bedroom to avoid the
smells and it was rubbish. After a couple or years there are great
patches where the varnish has worn through. I am now stuck with
revarnishing with oil based varnish which will look patchey or with
waterbased and hope that it hides the patches and it wont last.

Kevin


I don't think water borne acrylics have progressed to the point where
where you can get a hard finish at room temperature. The big furniture
manufacturers can do it, but they have a controlled environment.
All the water based varnishes I've seen are soft and plasticky looking,
and your Ronseal solvent based polyurethane isn't too long lasting
either. The acid catalysed system already referred to is the way to go
if you only want to do the job once.

JimP August 17th 05 04:33 PM

Just a note on pine floorboards--don't ever allow anyone to wear those
spikey highhealed shoes. Takes ages to "iron" out the dents.


Michael Mcneil August 17th 05 05:26 PM

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t

don't use diybanter.com


Why not? Doesn't NTL allow you to use it?




--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Rob Morley August 17th 05 07:57 PM

In article 2872f54e66daa1176121117876bdc1db.45219
@mygate.mailgate.org, "Michael Mcneil"
says...
"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t

don't use diybanter.com


Why not? Doesn't NTL allow you to use it?

It messes up the threading and quoting.


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