Fence building issues... just a couple of things need checking
 

I'm looking to build a featherboard fence (approx 5-6" high) connecting
the end of my house to my garage (approx 4m)... theres a couple of
things I'd like to check with some experienced people... hope you can
help.

I was thinking the best way to put up the end posts would be to
bolt/screw them directly to the house and garage wall. Are there any
issues with doing this that I am unaware of and if not what is the
recommended screw length to make them secure (standard 75mm fence
posts).

The rest of the posts are going to be concreted into the ground using
postmix. 2nd question is how deep should these go down I was thinking
about 2ft would be plenty correct?

wrote:
I'm looking to build a featherboard fence (approx 5-6" high) connecting
the end of my house to my garage (approx 4m)... theres a couple of
things I'd like to check with some experienced people... hope you can
help.

I was thinking the best way to put up the end posts would be to
bolt/screw them directly to the house and garage wall. Are there any
issues with doing this that I am unaware of and if not what is the
recommended screw length to make them secure (standard 75mm fence
posts).

The rest of the posts are going to be concreted into the ground using
postmix. 2nd question is how deep should these go down I was thinking
about 2ft would be plenty correct?


2ft in the ground for a 6ft post is ok, you could go a little deeper if
using 9ft posts.

A couple of tips I would offer:

Put the buried end of the posts inside pvc piping, use 110mm sewage
piping for this, suggest the brown colour. You should find that 3" post
will fit inside the sleeve, you might have to shave the corners
slightly.

Make sure that the pipe sleeve sits about 50mm + above the ground level
at the top end of the sleeve and fill it to the top with a sealer. Also
make sure the bottom end of the pipe is sealed and the post is say 30mm
to 50mm above the bottom of the sleeve.

Then post mix the protected posts in.

Doing this will protect the post from the water content in the soil at
a point where most fence posts will always rot. Its easy to do and your
post will last as long, if you keep treating them.

Ok it adds a little bit more cost but its well worth the expense when
you consider it against taking out rotting posts later on, wood aint
what it used to be. Also if a post goes for some reason you can get it
out much easier.

On the house side, fixing to the wall is ok, but make sure that you
screw, not nail it to the wall. I also put a pvc membrain between the
wall and the post. But you should also make sure that this post is not
in the ground. Sits above the DPC level, about 2 bricks up from the
ground.

Wherever possibe I always use screws on fences as it is always easier
to go back and get things out if ever you need too.

Hope this helps.

Regards

In article .com,
" says...
I'm looking to build a featherboard fence (approx 5-6" high) connecting
the end of my house to my garage (approx 4m)... theres a couple of
things I'd like to check with some experienced people... hope you can
help.

I was thinking the best way to put up the end posts would be to
bolt/screw them directly to the house and garage wall. Are there any
issues with doing this that I am unaware of and if not what is the
recommended screw length to make them secure (standard 75mm fence
posts).

You don't really need posts at the end - you could just attach the
arris rails to the walls with metal brackets, screws and rawlplugs.

The rest of the posts are going to be concreted into the ground using
postmix. 2nd question is how deep should these go down I was thinking
about 2ft would be plenty correct?

2ft should be okay as long as the soil is fairly firm and you dig the
holes with parallel sides and a flat base.

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Excellent... thanks for you help. I think I'll go with the aris rails
directly into the walls. Sounds like it will be easier and won't break
off the corner of the wall... although how far should I be away from
the corner to stop any crumbing issues?

In article .com,
" says...
Excellent... thanks for you help. I think I'll go with the aris rails
directly into the walls. Sounds like it will be easier and won't break
off the corner of the wall... although how far should I be away from
the corner to stop any crumbing issues?


If the walls are in good nick there shouldn't be a problem with small
fixings - rawlbolts can split unsupported masonry when they expand.
Just to be sure you can put the fixings a full brick away from the
corner.