Levelling up
 

I have two adjoining rooms that are now one. The floor levels need to coincide
but the concrete floor is lower than the wood-on-joists floor by about 50mm.
An option we are considering is to lay a Nicoline hardwood* floor throughout.
What are the options to bring the concrete floor up to the level of the
wood-on-joists floor? What are the problems of laying a floating floor across
the two different types of base?

*Floating floor similar to laminate flooring but T&G solid wood sheets.

--
John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822
Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com
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In article , "John Cartmell"
says...
I have two adjoining rooms that are now one. The floor levels need to coincide
but the concrete floor is lower than the wood-on-joists floor by about 50mm.
An option we are considering is to lay a Nicoline hardwood* floor throughout.
What are the options to bring the concrete floor up to the level of the
wood-on-joists floor?

Fix battens to the concrete like joists, and fit T&G or particle-
board flooring on top?

What are the problems of laying a floating floor across
the two different types of base?

If you do it like I said there won't really be two types of base.

*Floating floor similar to laminate flooring but T&G solid wood sheets.

That will be engineered hardwood then.

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t

Fix battens to the concrete like joists, and fit T&G or particle-
board flooring on top?

What are the problems of laying a floating floor across
the two different types of base?

If you do it like I said there won't really be two types of base.

He said it all. Get extra wide treated battens and you can use 3/4 ply
but if you skimp on the battens you will need to fettle and fart with it
or use pricier thicker boards.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Get some offcuts to try what you need before buying.

If they won't give you some, you are in the wrong place anyway. Go to a
decent supplier. You need an SDS too. They are V cheap these days.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

For 50mm you don't really have the thickness available to batten &
board it.
Cheap solution: lay two thicknesses of 1" chipboard, or screed the
floor.

In article .com,
"Phil" says...
For 50mm you don't really have the thickness available to batten &
board it.

Why ever not? The flooring will be less than an inch thick, which
gives you more than an inch for battens. As long as there's
sufficient thickness to nail down (and as long as you use widish
battens so they're unlikely to split) there won't be a problem.

"The flooring will be less than an inch thick"

Have a look at how thick your floorboards are...

A related question (which is why I'm not starting a new thread):

I want to lay 19mm solid hardwood flooring directly onto a concrete
floor that is almost completely level, and also very dry. I will be
laying a combined damp-proofing membrane and 3mm foam underlay, which
will take care of condensation and any small irregularities.

However, the floor level rises by more like 6mm near the corners and
some of the walls. This is probably less than 5% of the total floor
area, so it doesn't seem appropriate to build up the level in the
remaining 95%. Can this be compensated by shaving the undersides of the
boards to fit, where needed?



--
Ian White

In article .com,
"Phil" says...
"The flooring will be less than an inch thick"

Have a look at how thick your floorboards are...

I already know how thick my floorboards are. How thick do you think
they are? And how thick do you think the flooring (whether chipboard
or softwaood T&G) that you normally buy from a BM is?

Thick enough that your battens will be thin enough to split when nailed
trhough, or give you a bendy floor if you use any thinner flooring.

In article .com,
"Phil" says...
Thick enough that your battens will be thin enough to split when nailed
trhough, or give you a bendy floor if you use any thinner flooring.

I just knocked some 1.5" round wire nails through some 18mm T&G and
18x38mm sawn batten. If you're near the edge or end of the timber
there is a tendency to split (more so with the T&G than the batten),
but if you knock the point off the nail first there is no problem.

Knock the point off a masonry nail? Lol!

In article . com,
"Phil" says...
Knock the point off a masonry nail? Lol!


Why would you want to use masonry nails for fixing two pieces of
timber together?

So they are fixed to the (concrete) floor....

In article . com,
"Phil" says...
So they are fixed to the (concrete) floor....

No More Nails or similar will do fine for fixing the battens to the
floor.

Expensive & smelly....

In article .com,
"Phil" says...
Expensive & smelly....


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