We had our old lead pipes ripped out last year, and the entire system
replaced with a nice new Combi boiler and CH for the first time... Its
lovely :-)

Now, Im not a complete muppet when it comes to the odd bit of plumbing (even
managed to swage a piece of new copper into an old lead pipe a few months
ago..took a whole day mind, but it doesnt leak...) but a large part of the
new pipework is grey plastic...I believe its Whitworth.

Now, I have to move out the sink unit to hack off all the old 1950's tiles
behind it, and want to hook in a tap to outside. If it was copper, Id just
go out, buy a compression fit T piece and away we go...

But I have no idea how this new fangled plastic stuff works.

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are all
push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so, how?!

Any pointers appreciated..

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

Most modern plastic pipework can accept standard compression joints (22mm or
15mm as appropriate). Just remember to put a special metal strengthening
insert into the end of the pipe first.

Christian.

Hi Spike

But I have no idea how this new fangled plastic stuff works.

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

Simply go and buy a plastic T piece.

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are
all push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so,
how?!

The ones I've used have a ring where the pipe enters the fitting - just push
that back towards the fitting.

Dave

Spike wrote:

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are all
push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so, how?!

On the stuff I've used, there's a collar around the mouth of the fitting
which you push inwards slightly, which makes it lose its grip on the
plastic pipe, which may be withdrawn. Happens very easily; no need to
force it, and if you do, something will break!

I'd recommend you buy whatever new pushfit kit you need to do the job
and have a good play with that before you start trying to dismantle the
existing system - that will be much easier to do once you have a feel
for how the fittings work.

David

Lobster wrote:
Spike wrote:

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors
are all push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart
easily? If so, how?!

On the stuff I've used, there's a collar around the mouth of the
fitting which you push inwards slightly, which makes it lose its grip
on the plastic pipe, which may be withdrawn. Happens very easily; no
need to force it, and if you do, something will break!

I'd recommend you buy whatever new pushfit kit you need to do the job
and have a good play with that before you start trying to dismantle
the existing system - that will be much easier to do once you have a
feel for how the fittings work.

David

Good advice sir... thinl Illbe doing this...

In message , Lobster
writes
Spike wrote:

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors
are all push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily?
If so, how?!

On the stuff I've used, there's a collar around the mouth of the
fitting which you push inwards slightly, which makes it lose its grip
on the plastic pipe, which may be withdrawn. Happens very easily; no
need to force it, and if you do, something will break!

That sound like Speedfit - white stuff. They grey colour the OP mentions
makes me think it is more likely to be Hepworths Hep20. These fitting
are (usually - though they do make fixed fittings as well IIRC) also
dismountable, but in different way.

There is a website with useful info on it:

http://www.hep20.co.uk/

To separate the Hep2O fittings you unscrew the knurled 'ring' and pull
apart. Take care as inside there is a rubber O ring, and maybe a bit of
plastic that may fall out, or stick on the pipe. There is a 'Grab ring'
made of plastic with little stainless steel teeth (green IIRC) that will
stay attached to the pipe. To put back together, push the pipe etc back
in and screw back up.

to make the 'T' I would use a matching plastic fitting, though you can
use standard compression fittings. note that even with the plastic
fittings the pipe should have a support sleeve inserted in the end that
goes into the fitting (Speedfits is plastic I think, Hep2O is Stainless
steel.) I have made joints by mistake without them and all has been
fine, but sods law........

To cut the pipe the best/easiest thing to use is a pair of proper pipe
cutting 'secateurs'. but I have used a ~Stanley knife on occasion as
well, just requires a bit more fiddling about. Main things are to have
the cut square and not to have any rough bits hanging off.

Speedfit is available in the sheds, but I've only ever found Hep2O in
Plumbers Merchants

--
Chris French

chris French wrote:
In message , Lobster
writes

To cut the pipe the best/easiest thing to use is a pair of proper pipe
cutting 'secateurs'. but I have used a ~Stanley knife on occasion as
well, just requires a bit more fiddling about. Main things are to have
the cut square and not to have any rough bits hanging off.

And remember to follow the uk.d-i-y golden rule - *don't* cut it with a
hacksaw...

David

Lobster wrote:
chris French wrote:
In message , Lobster
writes

To cut the pipe the best/easiest thing to use is a pair of proper
pipe cutting 'secateurs'. but I have used a ~Stanley knife on
occasion as well, just requires a bit more fiddling about. Main
things are to have the cut square and not to have any rough bits
hanging off.

And remember to follow the uk.d-i-y golden rule - *don't* cut it with
a hacksaw...

David

Cheers Gents, That website has all I need to know, including instructions on
how to mantle and dismantle the connectors. Sorted!

Doesnt help that I was searching for Whitworth....

In message , Spike
writes
Lobster wrote:
Spike wrote:

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors
are all push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart
easily? If so, how?!

On the stuff I've used, there's a collar around the mouth of the
fitting which you push inwards slightly, which makes it lose its grip
on the plastic pipe, which may be withdrawn. Happens very easily; no
need to force it, and if you do, something will break!

I'd recommend you buy whatever new pushfit kit you need to do the job
and have a good play with that before you start trying to dismantle
the existing system - that will be much easier to do once you have a
feel for how the fittings work.

David

Good advice sir... thinl Illbe doing this...

Sober up first though

--
geoff

On Wed, 13 Jul 2005 15:40:35 +0100, "Spike"
wrote:

Lobster wrote:
chris French wrote:
In message , Lobster
writes

To cut the pipe the best/easiest thing to use is a pair of proper
pipe cutting 'secateurs'. but I have used a ~Stanley knife on
occasion as well, just requires a bit more fiddling about. Main
things are to have the cut square and not to have any rough bits
hanging off.

And remember to follow the uk.d-i-y golden rule - *don't* cut it with
a hacksaw...

David

Cheers Gents, That website has all I need to know, including instructions on
how to mantle and dismantle the connectors. Sorted!

Doesnt help that I was searching for Whitworth....

That would screw you and explain why you lost the thread......



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

"Spike" wrote in message
...
We had our old lead pipes ripped out last year, and the entire system
replaced with a nice new Combi boiler and CH for the first time... Its
lovely :-)

Now, Im not a complete muppet when it comes to the odd bit of plumbing
(even
managed to swage a piece of new copper into an old lead pipe a few months
ago..took a whole day mind, but it doesnt leak...) but a large part of the
new pipework is grey plastic...I believe its Whitworth.

Now, I have to move out the sink unit to hack off all the old 1950's tiles
behind it, and want to hook in a tap to outside. If it was copper, Id
just
go out, buy a compression fit T piece and away we go...

But I have no idea how this new fangled plastic stuff works.

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are
all
push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so,
how?!

Any pointers appreciated..

I thnk you mean Hepworth. By a Hepworth Hwp2O tee. If only doing a few
joinst yopu don't need special tools. A cutter will cost £15 or so, which
is worth buying if you are doing a whole system. Cut the plastic pipe with
a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square A fine file can help here to
sqaure off. Make sure there are no burred edges to the pipe. Here is what
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about cutting
their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools."

Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about
cutting
their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean,
square cut using a variety of tools."

Let's expand this to include the whole quote:

"We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the requirements
for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square without scoring or
scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which could get under the 'O'
ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used.

The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools. "

Note the line "It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used."

Christian.

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
I thnk you mean Hepworth. By a Hepworth Hwp2O tee. If only doing a few
joinst yopu don't need special tools. A cutter will cost £15 or so,
which is worth buying if you are doing a whole system. Cut the plastic
pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square A fine file can
help here to sqaure off. Make sure there are no burred edges to the
pipe.

That's how you had a leak, then?

Here is what Hepworth said here on this groups when the question
was asked about cutting their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean, square cut using a variety of tools."

Inventive being the operative word. But since you're as practical as a
chocolate teapot, best stick to using approved methods.

--
He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about
cutting their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean, square cut using a variety of tools."

Let's expand this to include the whole quote:

"We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the
requirements for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square
without scoring or scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which
could get under the 'O' ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should
not be used.

The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean, square cut using a variety of tools. "

Note the line "It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used."

Just another example of Drivel thinking he knows better than the makers -
apart when it suits him to believe their extravagant claims.

--
*Organized Crime Is Alive And Well; It's Called Auto Insurance. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

--
*Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about
cutting
their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean,
square cut using a variety of tools."

Let's expand this to include the whole quote:

"We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the requirements
for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square without scoring or
scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which could get under the
'O'
ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used.

The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean,
square cut using a variety of tools. "

Note the line "It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used."

If you know anything about pipe craft skills, which yours are obviously
limited, you cut the pipe with a purpose designed pipe cutter - a hacksaw.
then trim off "square without scoring or scratching".

And what they said was right: "The inventive can find many ways of achieving
a perfectly acceptable clean, square cut using a variety of tools". Note
the plural "tools". First the hacksaw to cut the pipe and other tools to
trim off and make square. They stress that the pipe sides must not be
scratched. It is clear that Hepworth mean do not just use only a hacksaw.
If you can make a cut without using expensive cutters, then what else cuts
the frigging pipe - a blowtorch?

Nothing worse than know-it-all DIYers. Get a life.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about
cutting their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean, square cut using a variety of tools."

Let's expand this to include the whole quote:

"We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the
requirements for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square
without scoring or scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which
could get under the 'O' ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should
not be used.

The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean, square cut using a variety of tools. "

Note the line "It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used."

Just another example

Figured out how a thermal stores works yet? How many years since the last
boiler service?. 12, 18?

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
I thnk you mean Hepworth. By a Hepworth Hwp2O tee. If only doing a few
joinst yopu don't need special tools. A cutter will cost £15 or so,
which is worth buying if you are doing a whole system. Cut the plastic
pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square A fine file can
help here to sqaure off. Make sure there are no burred edges to the
pipe.

That's how you had a

Please go back to the clinic? The medication is wearing off.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:

Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square

To the OP:-

To the OP, do what I say. Take care, don't scratch the sides of the pipe
and trim off with fine file. Don't use Speedfit as it is the poorest
quality of all the plastic systems. Hep2O is in the middle.

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Nothing worse than know-it-all DIYers.

The usual answer from one who calls himself a 'pro'. But chooses to ignore
advice direct from the pipe makers on how and how not to cut it - with
disastrous results.

Remind us once again of your qualifications? CORGI registered? Membership
of any recognised professional body? Relevant degree?

Get a life.

I have one and it's real. I don't have to hide behind various aliases and
live out a fantasy.

--
*Drugs may lead to nowhere, but at least it's the scenic route *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397 posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be going to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once job is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

:-)

(allegedly)

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Nothing worse than know-it-all DIYers.

The usual answer from

The senility has really set in.

"Spike" wrote in message
...

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor
Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397
posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be going to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once job
is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

:-)

(allegedly)

Or use a brass compression tee on the plastic. Insert the pipe inserts, put
on nut and olive, wrap olive with PTFE, tighten up.

In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"Spike" wrote in message
...
We had our old lead pipes ripped out last year, and the entire system
replaced with a nice new Combi boiler and CH for the first time... Its
lovely :-)

Now, Im not a complete muppet when it comes to the odd bit of plumbing
(even
managed to swage a piece of new copper into an old lead pipe a few months
ago..took a whole day mind, but it doesnt leak...) but a large part of the
new pipework is grey plastic...I believe its Whitworth.

Now, I have to move out the sink unit to hack off all the old 1950's tiles
behind it, and want to hook in a tap to outside. If it was copper, Id
just
go out, buy a compression fit T piece and away we go...

But I have no idea how this new fangled plastic stuff works.

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are
all
push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so,
how?!

Any pointers appreciated..

I thnk you mean Hepworth. By a Hepworth Hwp2O tee. If only doing a few
joinst yopu don't need special tools. A cutter will cost £15 or so, which
is worth buying if you are doing a whole system. Cut the plastic pipe with
a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square A fine file can help here to
sqaure off. Make sure there are no burred edges to the pipe. Here is what
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about cutting
their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools."

This from the idiot who flooded half of the SE of the country when he
tried doing this
--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"Spike" wrote in message
...
We had our old lead pipes ripped out last year, and the entire system
replaced with a nice new Combi boiler and CH for the first time... Its
lovely :-)

Now, Im not a complete muppet when it comes to the odd bit of plumbing
(even
managed to swage a piece of new copper into an old lead pipe a few
months
ago..took a whole day mind, but it doesnt leak...) but a large part of
the
new pipework is grey plastic...I believe its Whitworth.

Now, I have to move out the sink unit to hack off all the old 1950's
tiles
behind it, and want to hook in a tap to outside. If it was copper, Id
just
go out, buy a compression fit T piece and away we go...

But I have no idea how this new fangled plastic stuff works.

So how would one go about putting a T piece style connector in?

And how do I disconnect the plastic from the mains? The connectors are
all
push fit by the looks of things... do they come apart easily? If so,
how?!

Any pointers appreciated..

I thnk you mean Hepworth. By a Hepworth Hwp2O tee. If only doing a few
joinst yopu don't need special tools. A cutter will cost £15 or so,
which
is worth buying if you are doing a whole system. Cut the plastic pipe
with
a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square A fine file can help here
to
sqaure off. Make sure there are no burred edges to the pipe. Here is
what
Hepworth said here on this groups when the question was asked about
cutting
their pipe:

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean,
square cut using a variety of tools."

This from the idiot who flooded half of the SE of the country when he
tried doing this

Maxie, you never? You did a big flood? My God!!! I hope you look it out
on Dim Lin, the Oriental enchantress.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.


The really odd thing is that I've spent quite a bit of time trying, on
purpose, to make a leaky joint, with both Hep and JG, and failed
miserably. This included using very badly cut pipe, not using inserts,
shoving the pipe in at an angle etc.

(I know it sounds odd, but I had a load of fittings left over after
finishing all the plumbing, and I was curious.)



--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The really odd thing is that I've spent quite a bit of time trying, on
purpose, to make a leaky joint, with both Hep and JG, and failed
miserably. This included using very badly cut pipe, not using inserts,
shoving the pipe in at an angle etc.

(I know it sounds odd, but I had a load of fittings left over after
finishing all the plumbing, and I was curious.)


You obviously haven't got the skills....

I've known people who could manage to do amazing (-ly bad) things with the
simplest equipment and materials.

In article ,
Grunff wrote:
When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself half a chance and use the correct tools.


The really odd thing is that I've spent quite a bit of time trying, on
purpose, to make a leaky joint, with both Hep and JG, and failed
miserably. This included using very badly cut pipe, not using inserts,
shoving the pipe in at an angle etc.

(I know it sounds odd, but I had a load of fittings left over after
finishing all the plumbing, and I was curious.)

I'm sure near anyone here could make a fair fist of cutting and jointing
plastic pipe using any tools that were to hand, but Drivel's a special
case. Two left hands comprising all thumbs. With webs between.

--
*Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Spike mrichards@nocannedpig
..freezone.co.uk writes

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397 posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be going to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once job is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

And you'll find the plastic pipe cutter is nowhere near £15 as quoted by
John, its well worth getting the correct tool to do a good job, there is
a time for bodging and this isn't it
--
David

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 23:25:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Grunff wrote:
When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself half a chance and use the correct tools.


The really odd thing is that I've spent quite a bit of time trying, on
purpose, to make a leaky joint, with both Hep and JG, and failed
miserably. This included using very badly cut pipe, not using inserts,
shoving the pipe in at an angle etc.

(I know it sounds odd, but I had a load of fittings left over after
finishing all the plumbing, and I was curious.)

I'm sure near anyone here could make a fair fist of cutting and jointing
plastic pipe using any tools that were to hand, but Drivel's a special
case. Two left hands comprising all thumbs. With webs between.


..... and hairs on the palms....



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"David" wrote in message
...
In article , Spike mrichards@nocannedpig
.freezone.co.uk writes

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is
square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor
Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397
posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be going
to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once job
is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

And you'll find the plastic pipe cutter is nowhere near £15 as quoted by
John, its well worth getting the correct tool to do a good job, there is
a time for bodging and this isn't it

Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw and
finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not to
score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"David" wrote in message
.. .
In article , Spike mrichards@nocannedpig
.freezone.co.uk writes

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is
square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM, Doctor
Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397
posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be going
to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once job
is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

And you'll find the plastic pipe cutter is nowhere near £15 as quoted by
John, its well worth getting the correct tool to do a good job, there is
a time for bodging and this isn't it

Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw and
finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not to
score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

John, the tool is about £7, this is not an excessive amount . How much
does it cost to have to redo it because you haven't done it properly in
the first place? and once you've got it you won't have to risk bodging
the job in the future for the lack of the correct tool, I would strongly
advise you to do this as well, it will pay dividends in the long run

--
David

"David" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw and
finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not
to
score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

John, the tool is about £7, this is not an excessive amount . How much
does it cost to have to redo it because you haven't done it properly in
the first place? and once you've got it you won't have to risk bodging
the job in the future for the lack of the correct tool, I would strongly
advise you to do this as well, it will pay dividends in the long run.

Remember the DIY credo:

"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"

In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw
and finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care
not to score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

Despite the makers telling you *not* to use a hacksaw - and the fact that
you flooded a house when you did, you still tell others to do it.

There must be a reason for this. What does your analyst say?

--
*Sleep with a photographer and watch things develop

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"David" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

"David" wrote in message
.. .
In article , Spike
mrichards@nocannedpig
.freezone.co.uk writes

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Cut the plastic pipe with a hacksaw and and make sure the cut is
square

To the OP:-

Spike, if you want a laugh, do a Google for this group on IMM,
Doctor
Evil
(same person) and hacksaw.

He flooded out a friends house after trying to joint plastic pipe
when
cutting it with a hacksaw.

When working with new to you materials, it's always best to give
yourself
half a chance and use the correct tools.

Goes of Google wards ....Returns

Bwahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That made my day, that did... 397
posts!

Ill be doing what any smart person would in these circs... Ill be
going
to
the tool emporium, purchasing said cutter, and then returning it once
job
is
done due to it "not being the right one after all"..

And you'll find the plastic pipe cutter is nowhere near £15 as quoted
by
John, its well worth getting the correct tool to do a good job, there
is
a time for bodging and this isn't it

Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw and
finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not
to
score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

John, the tool is about £7, this is not an excessive amount . How much
does it cost to have to redo it because you haven't done it properly in
the first place?

Bertie, I don't know because I always do it properly. I suggested using a
compression tee, as these are more forgiving when it comes to the pipe sides
being slightly scratched or the end not fully square, and will have greater
longevity as no O ring is used. I have used plastic in the past for
threading and used compression joints rather than pushfits.

Those cutters I have seen, the makers versions, are about £15. Even so, £7
for one joint then fitting on top is an expensive joint. With one joint,
using a hacksaw and trimming properly will do. Just take more time on the
cutting and trimming. On a whole system you would not want to do that, so a
cutter is necessary.

and once you've got it you won't
have to risk bodging
the job in the future for the lack
of the correct tool,

I would probably lay there for 10 years with most people.

I would strongly advise you to do
this as well, it will pay dividends in the long run

Bertie, I don't need a makers cutter to make a scratch free perfectly
square, trimmed, burr free, pipe end.

"PC Paul" wrote in message
.uk...
"David" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil writes

Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw
and
finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care not
to
score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression joint.

John, the tool is about £7, this is not an excessive amount . How much
does it cost to have to redo it because you haven't done it properly in
the first place? and once you've got it you won't have to risk bodging
the job in the future for the lack of the correct tool, I would strongly
advise you to do this as well, it will pay dividends in the long run.

Remember the DIY credo:

"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"

Who said that? Your local rip-off tool shop?

"Doctor Evil" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"PC Paul" wrote in message

Remember the DIY credo:

"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"

Who said that? Your local rip-off tool shop?


It's called humour, so I'm not surprised it's lost on you.

There is a serious side to it too, which is that someone who understands the
craft of DIY (rather than being an outright bodger) will appreciate their
tools and realise when a specialist, or even just better quality, tool can
be justified.

"PC Paul" wrote in message
o.uk...
"Doctor Evil" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"PC Paul" wrote in message

Remember the DIY credo:

"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"

Who said that? Your local rip-off tool shop?


It's called humour, so I'm not surprised it's lost on you.

There is a serious side to it too, which is that someone who understands
the
craft of DIY (rather than being an outright bodger) will appreciate their
tools and realise when a specialist, or even just better quality, tool can
be justified.

There are also craftsmen who will not pay a fortune for a one-off tool and
can do the job other ways.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Evil wrote:
Bertie, £15 for one joint? Are you nuts? He is best using a hacksaw
and finishing off the pipe trim and square with a fine file, taking care
not to score the outside of the pipe. The use a brass compression
joint.

Despite the makers

cut babbling lies

"Doctor Evil" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"PC Paul" wrote in message
o.uk...
"Doctor Evil" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"PC Paul" wrote in message

Remember the DIY credo:

"No job's worth doing if it doesn't require a new tool"

Who said that? Your local rip-off tool shop?


It's called humour, so I'm not surprised it's lost on you.

There is a serious side to it too, which is that someone who understands
the
craft of DIY (rather than being an outright bodger) will appreciate their
tools and realise when a specialist, or even just better quality, tool
can
be justified.

There are also craftsmen who will not pay a fortune for a one-off tool and
can do the job other ways.


And bodgers who use an unsuitable tool and cause minor environmental
catastrophes. I'd think they'd only lurk in a group like this though, to see
if they could learn stuff. Can't imagine one of them posting lots of duff
advice.

Personally I always use a sharp knife for wire stripping rather than the
specialist tools.. but you need to have 'the touch' especially when you get
to specialist coaxial or very fine wiring. Use the right tool and it makes
it idiot proof.