washing machine drum repair?
 

got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and found a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8 month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??

In message , Paul
writes
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and found a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8 month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??


Http://www.apostrophe.fsnet.co.uk/ ??
--
geoff

"Paul" wrote in message
...
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and found
a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8
month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??


What material is the drum made from? If it's a new nylon drum, then glass
fibre webbing and moulding paste usually does the trick. You don't need
that much of it either. Or the other alternative is Araldite. Which can
take a week or so to cure off properly though, before you can use the
machine again.

raden wrote:
In message , Paul
writes
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there
was an underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up
today and found a small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing.
as the machine is 8 month's old i was going to ring the repair place
but should i decide to repair it myself what would be the best
adhesive for the job. i was thinking of jb-weld, i have used it in
the passed with success. my plan is to glue a small plate of
aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??


Http://www.apostrophe.fsnet.co.uk/ ??

Not really much use in plugging a hole in a washing machine is it?

But I suppose you really should brush up on your question mark usage -
shouldn't you?

Brian G

"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Paul" wrote in message
...
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was
an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and
found
a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8
month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair
it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??


What material is the drum made from? If it's a new nylon drum, then glass
fibre webbing and moulding paste usually does the trick. You don't need
that much of it either. Or the other alternative is Araldite. Which can
take a week or so to cure off properly though, before you can use the
machine again.

Araldite is not the answer as it will soften and fail as soon as a hot wash
(90°C) is performed. A friend tried Araliding a rack thing in a baby bottle
steamer (100°C) but failed after not very long. I've undone Araldire
repairs/bodges before (on ceramic items) by putting in a cold/warm
(100-150°C) oven and usually just fall apart.

how about drilling a bigger hole and then putting a blanking gromet in.
The pump no doubt connects to the drum in a similar fashion.

--
Pete Cross

"Ian_m" wrote in message
...
"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Paul" wrote in message
...
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was
an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and
found
a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8
month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair
it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue
a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??


What material is the drum made from? If it's a new nylon drum, then
glass
fibre webbing and moulding paste usually does the trick. You don't need
that much of it either. Or the other alternative is Araldite. Which
can
take a week or so to cure off properly though, before you can use the
machine again.

Araldite is not the answer as it will soften and fail as soon as a hot
wash
(90°C) is performed. A friend tried Araliding a rack thing in a baby
bottle
steamer (100°C) but failed after not very long. I've undone Araldire
repairs/bodges before (on ceramic items) by putting in a cold/warm
(100-150°C) oven and usually just fall apart.

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:15:50 +0100, "Ian_m" wrote:

Araldite is not the answer as it will soften and fail as soon as a hot wash
(90°C) is performed.

Araldite will survive somewhat higher temperatures than that. _Rapid_
Araldite is the one that fails below boiling point. I'd not trust either
in a washing machine though.

I don't use either of them though. A tenner's worth pack of West System
will last you for ages and can always be thickened if you need it thick.
However Araldite isn't so good and can't be thinned if you needed a thin
epoxy.

Paul wrote:
got in last night to find the kitchen flooded, short story is there was an
underwire sticking through the drum. tipped the machine up today and found a
small hole about 7mm punched in the drum casing. as the machine is 8 month's
old i was going to ring the repair place but should i decide to repair it
myself what would be the best adhesive for the job. i was thinking of
jb-weld, i have used it in the passed with success. my plan is to glue a
small plate of aluminium over the hole. any other suggestion's??

I would either:
Find a suitable bolt and nut, probably stainless.
Drill hole out to circular.
Bolt through hole, tighten nut quite a bit.

Or take a soldering iron, and weld the hole shut, using compatible plastic.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:15:50 +0100, "Ian_m" wrote:

Araldite is not the answer as it will soften and fail as soon as a hot w=
ash
(90=B0C) is performed.

Araldite will survive somewhat higher temperatures than that. _Rapid_
Araldite is the one that fails below boiling point. I'd not trust either
in a washing machine though.

Although it says on the pack it survives much higher temps, the reality
is it goes soft, so as to be fairly useless once it gets to boiling. I
know because I tried it on a steam chamber at about 100C, it was
useless.

Rapid is much worse in more than one respect, and should be avoided for
most use, just used when an inferior but fast set is needed.


I don't use either of them though. A tenner's worth pack of West System
will last you for ages and can always be thickened if you need it thick.

whats that? Building epoxy resin tube?


NT

On 21 Jun 2005 03:08:41 -0700, wrote:

whats that?

West System epoxy. Developed / sold by the Gougeon Brothers,
boatbuilders of some note. They also sell a boatbuilding book under
their name that's an excellent guide to serious use of epoxy.

Their epoxy is sold through boatbuilding and better woodworking
suppliers. They sell it in huge packs with mixing pumps, or a convenient
trial pack that lasts me two years in a busy workshop and costs a
tenner. They also sell a wide range of filler materials - cheap and
worth having around.

If you want a rapid cure with standard Araldite, just put some tinfoil
or a jar lid onto an electric stove at the lowest setting and mix it
hot. Hot enough to make it runny (no more!) and you can get a 5 minute
cure, with practice.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 21 Jun 2005 03:08:41 -0700, wrote:

whats that?

West System epoxy. Developed / sold by the Gougeon Brothers,
boatbuilders of some note. They also sell a boatbuilding book under
their name that's an excellent guide to serious use of epoxy.

Their epoxy is sold through boatbuilding and better woodworking
suppliers. They sell it in huge packs with mixing pumps, or a convenient
trial pack that lasts me two years in a busy workshop and costs a
tenner. They also sell a wide range of filler materials - cheap and
worth having around.

If you want a rapid cure with standard Araldite, just put some tinfoil
or a jar lid onto an electric stove at the lowest setting and mix it
hot. Hot enough to make it runny (no more!) and you can get a 5 minute
cure, with practice.

seems like Im always learning... thanks Andy

NT

In the end i got some stuff called chemical metal thats supposed to glue
everything to everything (so i thought) , i put some fine aluminium mesh
over the hole and put plenty of glue over it, let it dry overnight and
tested it with a hot wash and it leaked a few drops. put some more glue
where it was leaking from and tested it again but it still leaks. not sure
that the glue has enough grab on the plastic drum. options i have now are -
1) add more glue untill it stops leaking hopefully 2) remove as much glue as
possible and try something else?

at the moment option 2 sounds the best but what else can i try?

On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 15:46:57 +0100, "Paul"
wrote:

In the end i got some stuff called chemical metal thats supposed to glue
everything to everything (so i thought) , i put some fine aluminium mesh
over the hole and put plenty of glue over it, let it dry overnight and
tested it with a hot wash and it leaked a few drops. put some more glue
where it was leaking from and tested it again but it still leaks. not sure
that the glue has enough grab on the plastic drum. options i have now are -
1) add more glue untill it stops leaking hopefully 2) remove as much glue as
possible and try something else?

at the moment option 2 sounds the best but what else can i try?

Hi,

For a shorter term repair I'd tape over the hole with a few layers of
aluminium tape, starting with a small piece and overlapping with
bigger pieces.

For a longer term repair I'd use a patch of stainless steel sheet
(maybe cannibalise some kitchenware) secured with small stainless
machine screws, and seal the edges of the patch and under the screw
heads with a sealant like Fernox LS-X or some other high temperature
sealant, maybe a motor parts shop would have a good one (though clean
off surplus well before SWMBO washes her whites ;) )

cheers,
Pete.

Paul wrote:

In the end i got some stuff called chemical metal thats supposed to glue
everything to everything (so i thought) , i put some fine aluminium mesh
over the hole and put plenty of glue over it, let it dry overnight and
tested it with a hot wash and it leaked a few drops. put some more glue
where it was leaking from and tested it again but it still leaks. not sure
that the glue has enough grab on the plastic drum. options i have now are -
1) add more glue untill it stops leaking hopefully 2) remove as much glue as
possible and try something else?

Ive used that on a plastic drum...and its just about possible to get it
to stick but its never the best thing.

Its currently holding te concrete blocks on my plastic drum OK, and has
done for a few years...but that machine is leaking now and I have
suspicions.

In all honesty, fit a new drum. Chemical metal worked great on rusted up
steel drums but the modern plastic ones - no. Not reliabley anyway.




at the moment option 2 sounds the best but what else can i try?