In my house, the previous occupant has done all sorts of terrible things with the electrics, the shower (9.5kW) fed with 2.5mm to name just one!

The lates bodge found was behind a wall cabinet. At one time, there used to
be a double mains socket, which has been removed complete with back box and
replaced with a standard round junction box. The hole has been gouged out to
allow it to be sunk. From this, a short spur to a new, lower position.

My requirement is to open the ring at this point and run another couple or
three of sockets. I know that crimps are the way to go, but tell me this:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?

2) Should the earth be connected straight through, or connected to a
replacement back box (removed during this bodge).


--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

In article ,
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
My requirement is to open the ring at this point and run another couple
or three of sockets. I know that crimps are the way to go, but tell me
this:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical
work?

2) Should the earth be connected straight through, or connected to a
replacement back box (removed during this bodge).

If you replace the back box it then becomes 'accessible' so you could use
choc blocks for the connectors and fit a blank plate as a cover. I don't
think it matters that it's behind a cupboard.

I don't like those blue crimpy things. ;-)

--
*It sounds like English, but I can't understand a word you're saying.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

snip
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

Alan.

"Alan" wrote in message
...
snip
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

Alan.
AFAIK there is no difference in contrsuction between the blue/red and yellow
bullets. The only difference is the size of them so I can't see how one
would be for stranded and another solid. Definatly agree that its worth
getting the proper crimpers if you are going to use them

"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...

"Alan" wrote in message
...
snip
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical
work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

Alan.
AFAIK there is no difference in contrsuction between the blue/red and
yellow bullets. The only difference is the size of them so I can't see how
one would be for stranded and another solid. Definatly agree that its
worth getting the proper crimpers if you are going to use them



I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...1073&doy=13m6D

Alan.

"Alan" wrote in message
...

"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...

"Alan" wrote in message
...
snip
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical
work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close
them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

Alan.
AFAIK there is no difference in contrsuction between the blue/red and
yellow bullets. The only difference is the size of them so I can't see
how
one would be for stranded and another solid. Definatly agree that its
worth getting the proper crimpers if you are going to use them



I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...1073&doy=13m6D

Alan.

So did I Alan. :-)

In article ,
Alan wrote:
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical
work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

I can't see any difference between ones bought from Halfords or from TLC.
Neither does RS etc list ones for low voltage stranded and mains solid
core - and they of course would cover both events with their products.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close
them properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

TLC give red 1.5mm
blue 2.5mm
yellow 6.0mm

So for coupling 2.5mm blue is correct.

--
*Succeed, in spite of management *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Alan wrote:
1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical
work?

No - those are for low voltage, multi-strand wire. T&E is not.

I can't see any difference between ones bought from Halfords or from TLC.
Neither does RS etc list ones for low voltage stranded and mains solid
core - and they of course would cover both events with their products.

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close
them properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

TLC give red 1.5mm
blue 2.5mm
yellow 6.0mm

So for coupling 2.5mm blue is correct.


I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...1073&doy=13m6D

Alan.

In article ,
Alan wrote:
I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

I'd sincerely hope not. Dreadful bodges. And they're not crimps but a
crude IPC type.

--
*Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Alan
wrote:


I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

No no no. I said "auto electrics", not firestarters. :-)

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

In article ,
Alan wrote:
I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...1073&doy=13m6D

But it's only rated at 8 amps. Doubt if even Dimm would use one of those
for ring main cable.

--
*I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Alan wrote:
I though the OP was referring to the "Scotch" or "Snap-lock" type blue
connector often used in car wiring mods, like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...1073&doy=13m6D

But it's only rated at 8 amps. Doubt if even Dimm would use one of those
for ring main cable.


I dunno - would probably be ideal for splitting a mains cable to feed 2
combi boilers...

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I can't see any difference between ones bought from Halfords or
from TLC. Neither does RS etc list ones for low voltage stranded
and mains solid core - and they of course would cover both events
with their products.

I would be cautious about crimps, unless the blurb
actually said the word 'solid'.

For example, I assume that all RS crimps are for
stranded wire, with the only exception being the
range from Solistrand, whose blurb actually does
say "designed for solid, stranded, and irregular
shaped copper conductors".

The Solistrands are uninsualated crimps, of a thicker
gauge copper than usual, with heavy serrations down
the bore, presumably to bite into solid copper wires.

--
Tony Williams.

In article ,
Tony Williams wrote:
I can't see any difference between ones bought from Halfords or
from TLC. Neither does RS etc list ones for low voltage stranded
and mains solid core - and they of course would cover both events
with their products.

I would be cautious about crimps, unless the blurb
actually said the word 'solid'.

The 'standard' red blue and yellow pre-insulated types make no mention of
this anywhere I've seen them on sale.

And I'd expect Halfords to sell them for car use - ie flex, and TLC for
mains cable - ie solid in the smaller sizes. Or at least to state if they
were only for use with flex.

--
*The more I learn about women, the more I love my car

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 13:36:06 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I would be cautious about crimps, unless the blurb
actually said the word 'solid'.

The 'standard' red blue and yellow pre-insulated types make no mention of
this anywhere I've seen them on sale.

Crimps are relatively non-fussy about stranded vs. colid core cable. For
most combinations the same crimp terminal can be used, although the
ideal crimping force is slightly different.

If you're using pre-insulated crimps (ghastly things that they are) then
the vagaries of trying to deliver a controlled force through a squashy
plastic sleeve give rise to far more variation than solid/stranded
cable.

Tony Williams wrote:
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I can't see any difference between ones bought from Halfords or
from TLC. Neither does RS etc list ones for low voltage stranded
and mains solid core - and they of course would cover both events
with their products.

I would be cautious about crimps, unless the blurb
actually said the word 'solid'.

For example, I assume that all RS crimps are for
stranded wire, with the only exception being the
range from Solistrand, whose blurb actually does
say "designed for solid, stranded, and irregular
shaped copper conductors".

The Solistrands are uninsualated crimps, of a thicker
gauge copper than usual, with heavy serrations down
the bore, presumably to bite into solid copper wires.

I don't see how the type of wire affects how well the crimp works
really. The copper in stranded wire can creep (or not) to exactly the
same extent as the copper in non-stranded wire.

My crimps came from my local Electrical Wholesaler so presumably are
designed for use with mains cable, the cataloge certainly implies that
is their intended use.

--
Chris Green

In article , Alan
wrote:

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

I have some proper tools, all I need then is the yellow crimps, CPC? or
Dave's suggestion of chocolate blocks. I am going to make it accessible ish,
so I suppose that's OK.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

In article , "Andy Luckman
(AJL Electronics)" writes
In article , Alan
wrote:

You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

I have some proper tools, all I need then is the yellow crimps, CPC? or
Dave's suggestion of chocolate blocks. I am going to make it accessible ish,
so I suppose that's OK.

I can't see what's wrong with the original round junction box set into
the wall. Why is using choc block better than that?
--
Tim Mitchell

In article , Tim Mitchell
wrote:

I can't see what's wrong with the original round junction box set into
the wall. Why is using choc block better than that?

Because I want to open the ring at that point. There are insufficient
terminals in the box.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:53:21 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:


You'd need crimps designed for the wire size and current - probably the
yellow coupler type ones, and a proper (ratchet) crimp tool to close them
properly - not the el cheapo ones which cannot apply enough force.

I have some proper tools, all I need then is the yellow crimps, CPC? or
Dave's suggestion of chocolate blocks. I am going to make it accessible ish,
so I suppose that's OK.

Either are good, in industry crimps are used to save time.

You can break up the chock-block connectors and push them into the
corners, tape them up with insulation tape if it makes you feel
better. Remember this is a ring circuit, therefore their should not
be any connection between the CPC, Phase or neutrals between each
leg.

This is better explained in the IEE On-Site guide.

J

John_ZIZinvalid wrote:

...... Remember this is a ring circuit, therefore there should not
be any connection between the CPC, Phase or neutrals between each
leg.

Come again, chuck? Are you trying to say 'keep it as a ring, don't end
up with a multi-socket spur, you want a 'goes in' and a 'comes back' leg
to your new sockets and they should be separate in the weirdo backbox' -
in which case, yes you're right, and Andy L prolly knows already. If
not, could you explain what you did have in mind?

This extending-for-new-sockets topic came up a couple of weeks ago. One
of the nicest solutions was to use a dual box, to mount two singles side
by side, each with one of the old ring cables and a leg of the new bit
of ring. No chocbloc, room to breathe, and general Goodness all round...

Stefek

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
John_ZIZinvalid wrote:

...... Remember this is a ring circuit, therefore there should not
be any connection between the CPC, Phase or neutrals between each
leg.

Come again, chuck? Are you trying to say 'keep it as a ring, don't end
up with a multi-socket spur, you want a 'goes in' and a 'comes back' leg
to your new sockets and they should be separate in the weirdo backbox' -
in which case, yes you're right, and Andy L prolly knows already. If
not, could you explain what you did have in mind?

This extending-for-new-sockets topic came up a couple of weeks ago. One
of the nicest solutions was to use a dual box, to mount two singles side
by side, each with one of the old ring cables and a leg of the new bit
of ring. No chocbloc, room to breathe, and general Goodness all round...

Stefek

But all this is hidden behind a cabinet or cupboard, which sounds built-in
to the kitchen scheme.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 23:48:25 +0100, Stefek Zaba
wrote:

...... Remember this is a ring circuit, therefore there should not
be any connection between the CPC, Phase or neutrals between each
leg.

Come again, chuck? Are you trying to say 'keep it as a ring, don't end
up with a multi-socket spur, you want a 'goes in' and a 'comes back' leg
to your new sockets and they should be separate in the weirdo backbox' -
in which case, yes you're right, and Andy L prolly knows already. If
not, could you explain what you did have in mind?

Yes. Keep within the ring where possible, and don't cross connect
between both legs, this is better explained in the IEE On-Site guide
with the aid of diagrams.

I don't have a copy of the IEE Regs here with me, so cannot state the
exact IEE regulation rule, but there is a rule which states the amount
of spurs you can have on ring, and that spured sockets should not
exceed the amount of sockets which make up the ring.

You are also limited to the amount of sockets on a spur, and these
should not exceed one double/single, if you want more then you need
to install a fused spur.

This extending-for-new-sockets topic came up a couple of weeks ago. One
of the nicest solutions was to use a dual box, to mount two singles side
by side, each with one of the old ring cables and a leg of the new bit
of ring. No chocbloc, room to breathe, and general Goodness all round...

Your solution of using two single sockets side by side is a good way
of solving the problem, rather than using connectors and one
double/single socket.

J

In article , Stefek Zaba
wrote:

This extending-for-new-sockets topic came up a couple of weeks ago. One
of the nicest solutions was to use a dual box, to mount two singles side
by side, each with one of the old ring cables and a leg of the new bit
of ring. No chocbloc, room to breathe, and general Goodness all round...

That would be a jolly wonderful idea. Depends on the clearance to the back
of the cupboard though.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:02:48 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?

2) Should the earth be connected straight through, or connected to a
replacement back box (removed during this bodge).

As has been said further down this thread, the crimps you'd need to
use would be the blue 'butt splice' ones, using a decent crimp tool.

However, seeing as you're planning to use a new backbox anyway, my
suggestion would be to go with choc block strip connector because it
allows you more control over the connection strength.

The earth should go to the new box at at least one point.



--
"I think computer viruses should count as life. I think it
says something about human nature that the only form of life
we have created so far is purely destructive. We've created
life in our own image." - Stephen Hawking

In article ,
Chipmunk wrote:
However, seeing as you're planning to use a new backbox anyway, my
suggestion would be to go with choc block strip connector because it
allows you more control over the connection strength.

The earth should go to the new box at at least one point.

Yup - but I'd use a choc block for the main earth connection and just run
a tail to the box terminal.

--
*If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple of payments *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:02:48 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:


In my house, the previous occupant has done all sorts of terrible things with the electrics, the shower (9.5kW) fed with 2.5mm to name just one!

The lates bodge found was behind a wall cabinet. At one time, there used to
be a double mains socket, which has been removed complete with back box and
replaced with a standard round junction box. The hole has been gouged out to
allow it to be sunk. From this, a short spur to a new, lower position.

My requirement is to open the ring at this point and run another couple or
three of sockets. I know that crimps are the way to go, but tell me this:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?

I'd consider using those on solid core to be a bodge, however they're
crimped.

I'd only use ones specifically designed for solid core and crimped in
the recommended way.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:02:48 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:


In my house, the previous occupant has done all sorts of terrible things with the electrics, the shower (9.5kW) fed with 2.5mm to name just one!

The lates bodge found was behind a wall cabinet. At one time, there used to
be a double mains socket, which has been removed complete with back box and
replaced with a standard round junction box. The hole has been gouged out to
allow it to be sunk. From this, a short spur to a new, lower position.

My requirement is to open the ring at this point and run another couple or
three of sockets. I know that crimps are the way to go, but tell me this:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?


I'd consider using those on solid core to be a bodge, however they're
crimped.

I'd only use ones specifically designed for solid core and crimped in
the recommended way.

Ok. I've read enough of this thread to feel nervous. I have crimped
some 1.5T&E with some blue crimps and a ratchet crimping tool. If these
crimps are not correct for the job, can someone point me to some that
are? I have never heard of mains-rated crimps.

Antony

In article ,
antgel wrote:
Ok. I've read enough of this thread to feel nervous. I have crimped
some 1.5T&E with some blue crimps and a ratchet crimping tool. If these
crimps are not correct for the job, can someone point me to some that
are? I have never heard of mains-rated crimps.

Think red is the right size for 1.5mm.

But any crimped joint doesn't really consider the voltage. It's the
current that matters. The insulation must be up to the voltage, though.

--
*Arkansas State Motto: Don't Ask, Don't Tell, Don't Laugh.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

antgel wrote:
Pete C wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:02:48 +0100, "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)"
wrote:



In my house, the previous occupant has done all sorts of terrible things with the electrics, the shower (9.5kW) fed with 2.5mm to name just one!

The lates bodge found was behind a wall cabinet. At one time, there used to
be a double mains socket, which has been removed complete with back box and
replaced with a standard round junction box. The hole has been gouged out to
allow it to be sunk. From this, a short spur to a new, lower position.

My requirement is to open the ring at this point and run another couple or
three of sockets. I know that crimps are the way to go, but tell me this:

1) Are these crimps the same blue ones as I use for auto electrical work?


I'd consider using those on solid core to be a bodge, however they're
crimped.

I'd only use ones specifically designed for solid core and crimped in
the recommended way.


Ok. I've read enough of this thread to feel nervous. I have crimped
some 1.5T&E with some blue crimps and a ratchet crimping tool. If these
crimps are not correct for the job, can someone point me to some that
are? I have never heard of mains-rated crimps.

Antony

Aren't blue crimps meant to be used on 2.5mm T&E. For 1.5mm T&E you're
meant to use red crimps.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ols/index.html

D

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 10:06:09 +0100, antgel
wrote:

Ok. I've read enough of this thread to feel nervous. I have crimped
some 1.5T&E with some blue crimps and a ratchet crimping tool. If these
crimps are not correct for the job, can someone point me to some that
are? I have never heard of mains-rated crimps.

Hi,

I'd not worry about now it unless they're taking a lot of current
and/or near anything flammable, or the wires might get moved or
disturbed or have flammable stuff placed near them.

Often a safe and lasting 'bodge' is very acceptable

Though if I was a tradesperson I'd find another way of joining the
cable or some use crimps designed for solid core.

What do the IEE make of using 'auto' crimps? Maybe this has been
discussed on their forum. I'd expect if everyone started using ones
designed for solid core the prices would come down.

cheers,
Pete.

In article ,
Pete C wrote:
What do the IEE make of using 'auto' crimps? Maybe this has been
discussed on their forum. I'd expect if everyone started using ones
designed for solid core the prices would come down.

As I said, the pre-insulated types sold by TLC and others as presumably
for mains use appear no different from the ones sold by Halfords
presumably for auto use.

--
*I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:53:30 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Pete C wrote:
What do the IEE make of using 'auto' crimps? Maybe this has been
discussed on their forum. I'd expect if everyone started using ones
designed for solid core the prices would come down.

As I said, the pre-insulated types sold by TLC and others as presumably
for mains use appear no different from the ones sold by Halfords
presumably for auto use.

Hi,

They may be fine for mains use but a lot of people assume that
includes solid core T&E, and I expect they're only intended for
stranded mains cable, eg conduit cable.

If you look up some tech info on these on the RS site they all talk
about use with stranded cable and not solid core.

Even so if I was a tradesperson I'd even buy branded ones for use with
stranded mains cable, saving a few pennies by using unbranded ones
isn't worth the risk.

cheers,
Pete.

[Thread resurrection]

I have previously been an advocate of crimping mains cables, both
solid and stranded, provided the correct tool is used. Now I need to
add to that.

Do NOT trust the insulated crimps from unknown manufacturers, as
supplied by many otherwise excellent electrical wholesalers until you
have taken one from the pack, and snipped off the plastic to see that
it is adequate (preferably after purchase g ). I found some today
that had an excessive amount of the metal in the middle section
removed, by my guesstimation, down to maybe 2.0 sq mm, or maybe less,
and very soft squishy copper at that. Being that these crimps are
rated for 12 AWG wire which is around 3.06 sq mm CSA, I consider this
a dangerous defect.

Fortunately I was warned by the fact that my Amp crimp tool just
crimped them as if they were mere plastic, indeed, one broke in the
middle, with the plastic holding the broken parts in place.

A severe potential fire risk there, that would not have been caused by
the usual suspects with crimps [poor crimping] but by what I consider
to be a manufacturing defect.

Suffice to say, strip connector got used instead, thank $DEITY I found
it before energizing the 32 amp circuit they were on.

Hope this forewarns someone and saves someone losing everything.

--
"Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on
*no* account be allowed to do the job."
- The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 22:14:42 GMT, Chip
wrote:

[Thread resurrection]

I have previously been an advocate of crimping mains cables, both
solid and stranded, provided the correct tool is used. Now I need to
add to that.

Do NOT trust the insulated crimps from unknown manufacturers, as
supplied by many otherwise excellent electrical wholesalers until you
have taken one from the pack, and snipped off the plastic to see that
it is adequate (preferably after purchase g ). I found some today
that had an excessive amount of the metal in the middle section
removed, by my guesstimation, down to maybe 2.0 sq mm, or maybe less,
and very soft squishy copper at that. Being that these crimps are
rated for 12 AWG wire which is around 3.06 sq mm CSA, I consider this
a dangerous defect.

Fortunately I was warned by the fact that my Amp crimp tool just
crimped them as if they were mere plastic, indeed, one broke in the
middle, with the plastic holding the broken parts in place.

A severe potential fire risk there, that would not have been caused by
the usual suspects with crimps [poor crimping] but by what I consider
to be a manufacturing defect.

Suffice to say, strip connector got used instead, thank $DEITY I found
it before energizing the 32 amp circuit they were on.

Hope this forewarns someone and saves someone losing everything.

If you're a bit bored/sad it's not too hard to cut through a crimp
with a junior hacksaw and sand the cut surface down with wet&dry to
see how well it's crimped. If there is no air space between cable
strand(s) and crimp it's a good sign.

cheers,
Pete.