DIYbanter

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)
-   UK diy (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/)
-   -   Metal RediDrives and Metal Easy-Drivers- What is difference? (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/109077-metal-redidrives-metal-easy-drivers-what-difference.html)

Blair June 5th 05 05:55 PM

Metal RediDrives and Metal Easy-Drivers- What is difference?
 
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?

Blair



Stefek Zaba June 5th 05 08:48 PM

Blair wrote:
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?

Don't think so, just a difference in price and possibly quality. I've
only used the pricier one, the RediDriva, which has always held very
well in the PB walls here. From the photo, the EasiDriva looks as if its
thread doesn't cut quite as far into the PB, so may be suitable for
slightly lighter loads but may be less likely to crack the skim (which
the RediDrivas do when driven just a bit too deep - not far, mind, just
for a few mm around the fixing, based on a sample of exactly one house,
objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear, E&OE, etc. etc. ;-)

Stefek

Blair June 5th 05 09:51 PM


"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
Blair wrote:
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?

Don't think so, just a difference in price and possibly quality. I've
only used the pricier one, the RediDriva, which has always held very
well in the PB walls here. From the photo, the EasiDriva looks as if its
thread doesn't cut quite as far into the PB, so may be suitable for
slightly lighter loads but may be less likely to crack the skim (which
the RediDrivas do when driven just a bit too deep - not far, mind, just
for a few mm around the fixing, based on a sample of exactly one house,
objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear, E&OE, etc. etc. ;-)

Thanks for your help. I am only fixing curtain rails and blinds so the

EasiDrive would probably be adequate.
Blair



Stefek Zaba June 6th 05 12:53 AM

Blair wrote:

Thanks for your help. I am only fixing curtain rails and blinds so the
EasiDrive would probably be adequate.


Your choice, of course. Me, once I'm making up a Screwfix order, I
figure (a) buying a box of 100 from a semi-trade supplier like them is
so much cheaper than buying a plastic-pack of 10 from a shed that I may
as well at least consider a notch up in quality; (b) if I'm going to
have a large (to me) quantity of them lying around for the next 2-5
years, I may as well have the grade that'll let me do more jobs.

But as I say, I don't think there's that much in it!

Cheers, Stefek

David Lang June 6th 05 12:54 AM


Blair asked
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?


Probably just cost per 100. I guess the metal ones are better, but if you
are going to use a lot the nylon ones are cheaper.

Never quite understood trying to save money on consumables. Wood glue is a
good example, Titebond 2 versus PVA. Titebond is double the price, but glue
is about .01% of the cost of a project, so why not buy the best?

Dave



Blair June 6th 05 05:33 AM


"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
Blair wrote:

Thanks for your help. I am only fixing curtain rails and blinds so the
EasiDrive would probably be adequate.


Your choice, of course. Me, once I'm making up a Screwfix order, I
figure (a) buying a box of 100 from a semi-trade supplier like them is
so much cheaper than buying a plastic-pack of 10 from a shed that I may
as well at least consider a notch up in quality; (b) if I'm going to
have a large (to me) quantity of them lying around for the next 2-5
years, I may as well have the grade that'll let me do more jobs.

But as I say, I don't think there's that much in it!

Cheers, Stefek


A friend told me that he bought a pack of 10 metal RediDrive from B&Q but
they cost about £8
Screwfix (owned by B&Q) charge £8.71 for 100 metal RediDrives but charge £6
postage, total cost £14.71
However as I only need 24 items it is still cheaper to buy the 100 which
leaves me with 76 surplus items.
As you say the better quality would enable more jobs to be done in the
future,
Blair



Ian Stirling June 6th 05 02:17 PM

David Lang wrote:

Blair asked
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?


Probably just cost per 100. I guess the metal ones are better, but if you
are going to use a lot the nylon ones are cheaper.

Never quite understood trying to save money on consumables. Wood glue is a
good example, Titebond 2 versus PVA. Titebond is double the price, but glue
is about .01% of the cost of a project, so why not buy the best?


Because in many instances it may make no difference.
Knowing when it might is of course the key.

Paul Mc Cann June 6th 05 10:24 PM

In article ,
says...

Blair asked
Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above
Are there different uses for each?


Probably just cost per 100. I guess the metal ones are better, but if you
are going to use a lot the nylon ones are cheaper.

Never quite understood trying to save money on consumables. Wood glue is a
good example, Titebond 2 versus PVA. Titebond is double the price, but glue
is about .01% of the cost of a project, so why not buy the best?

Dave



There are fundamental differences between Titebond and PVA that could
dictate which is chosen for a particular job.

Vanilla PVA is a fine glue and more than adequate for run-of the mill
interior work.
--
Paul Mc Cann

David Lang June 7th 05 12:13 AM

Hi Paul
There are fundamental differences between Titebond and PVA that could
dictate which is chosen for a particular job.


I know what you mean, but Titebond scores over PVA in every aspect I can
think of; initial bond, clamp time, strength, gap fill, clean up, sanding,
staining, water resistance etc. Why would I bother with another glue?

OK it's twice the price, but how much do you use per job?

Dave



Andy Dingley June 7th 05 12:47 AM

On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 23:13:59 GMT, "David Lang"
wrote:

I know what you mean, but Titebond scores over PVA in every aspect I can
think of;


I've found it to have terrible shelf life. Anyone else found this, or
have I just been unlucky / had old stock ? I'm storing it in the house,
not frozen or overheated in the shed.

I use hide glue (hot or cold) for nearly everything, PVA for MDF and
biscuits.


David Lang June 7th 05 11:15 AM


Hi Andy

I've found it to have terrible shelf life. Anyone else found this, or
have I just been unlucky / had old stock ? I'm storing it in the house,
not frozen or overheated in the shed.


I'm using Titebond 11. Franklin say; Storage life 12 months in tightly
closed containers at 75°F. I've not had a problem, but I use it a lot and
buy the smaller bottles - Axminster are close by so it's easy for me to pop
in.

Dave



Paul Mc Cann June 7th 05 07:39 PM

In article ,
says...
On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 23:13:59 GMT, "David Lang"
wrote:

I know what you mean, but Titebond scores over PVA in every aspect I can
think of;


I've found it to have terrible shelf life. Anyone else found this, or
have I just been unlucky / had old stock ? I'm storing it in the house,
not frozen or overheated in the shed.

I use hide glue (hot or cold) for nearly everything, PVA for MDF and
biscuits.


I've found the same with shelf life.

Also its not much good with biscuits and the fast setting time can make
an already stressful glue-up even more stressful.

PVA is fine for most work. If its going to be exterior then polyurethane
(If only I could remember to ALWAYS put on the disposable gloves first)

If its for marine then two pack
--
Paul Mc Cann


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:55 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter