Stud Wall Construction Confusion
 

Hello all

Apologies for war and peace but.....

I'm building a stud wall and I'm confused on a number of points
regarding the door frame. I will try and explain below:

1. The width of the door lining (frame) is 108mm wide and my studs are
100mm. With plasterboard (12.5mm) and skim this will stand proud by a
considerable amount, I'm obviously missing something here anyone care
to give me a lesson? Will the architrave just hide this and it should
be butted up to the edge of the plasterboard?

2. Also is the door head the part that is supplied with the door
lining? I have a bit of wood which has 2 rebates at each end but on the
opposite side to each other and at different spacing from the ends. I'm
asuming here that this is a universal door lining kit which will take 2
sizes of door and the vertical frame slots into this in a tongue and
groove manner??

3. What's the best way to construct the door studs? was thinking as
follows:

run 2 full length studs from the sole plate to the head plate and
attach each one either side of the door opening and then cut 2 studs
the height of the door and attach these to the full length studs. Cut
the door head to length and attach to the top of the door height studs.
This method basically eliminates the requirement to channel a recess
into the door studs.

Does this sound reasonable?

4. One end of the stud wall which will only be a stud wide (2")will
attach to a solid wall and I plan to drill, plug and screw this, I then
plan to attach the door height stud to this, does that sound OK?

Thanks and appreciate your help as usual.

Richard

On 1 Jun 2005 02:20:09 -0700, wrote:

Hello all

Apologies for war and peace but.....

I'm building a stud wall and I'm confused on a number of points
regarding the door frame. I will try and explain below:

1. The width of the door lining (frame) is 108mm wide and my studs are
100mm. With plasterboard (12.5mm) and skim this will stand proud by a
considerable amount, I'm obviously missing something here anyone care
to give me a lesson? Will the architrave just hide this and it should
be butted up to the edge of the plasterboard?
The lining is made for a 75 mm stud partition. Then the arithmetic
works. BUT that doesn't prevent you using it in your case. You will
have to fit one strip, or two, of wood alongside to bring width up to
100+12.5+12.5+8(for skims). Architrave is the decorative moulding
which faces into room, and applied after skims.

2. Also is the door head the part that is supplied with the door
lining? I have a bit of wood which has 2 rebates at each end but on the
opposite side to each other and at different spacing from the ends. I'm
asuming here that this is a universal door lining kit which will take 2
sizes of door and the vertical frame slots into this in a tongue and
groove manner?
Correct! I assume you bought a shrink wrapped pack at B&Q. It is
intended for use on two door widths. Height you cut to your liking,
carpet, vinyl etc. Cut to size. Glue up with bracing pieces, and allow
to set before fitting.

3. What's the best way to construct the door studs? was thinking as
follows:

run 2 full length studs from the sole plate to the head plate and
attach each one either side of the door opening and then cut 2 studs
the height of the door and attach these to the full length studs. Cut
the door head to length and attach to the top of the door height studs.
This method basically eliminates the requirement to channel a recess
into the door studs.

Does this sound reasonable?

Do you mean stud/stud/door lining? Ouch!! That really is heavy and
unnecessary. Stud/door lining is correct. For "first class" work
(heavy use, heavy door) you must rebate stud at door head. For lesser
work(light door) you can screw and glue, through two (vertical) studs
into door head.

4. One end of the stud wall which will only be a stud wide (2")will
attach to a solid wall and I plan to drill, plug and screw this, I then
plan to attach the door height stud to this, does that sound OK?
Yes in theory but possibly not in practice. Wall, ceiling and floor
may not be at right angles. You compensate for this by leaving a 10mm
gap, or more depending on innaccuracy, between final stud and wall.
Before final fixing you make it vertical, and make contact with wall
by using wedges and packing pieces at drill and plug positions.
This may mean you have to rework your design.

Thanks and appreciate your help as usual.

Hey! Only too glad to help. Been there done it.
Richard


--
Olav Marjasoo
Overlooking the Clyde, West Coast of Scotland

Thanks to you all!

Glad to see there are still some very helpful people on this forum

Richard

wrote:

1. The width of the door lining (frame) is 108mm wide and my studs are
100mm. With plasterboard (12.5mm) and skim this will stand proud by a
considerable amount, I'm obviously missing something here anyone care
to give me a lesson? Will the architrave just hide this and it should
be butted up to the edge of the plasterboard?

As the others have said, you have got the lining for a thinner wall....

2. Also is the door head the part that is supplied with the door
lining? I have a bit of wood which has 2 rebates at each end but on the

Yup flip it over to select the width you want...

3. What's the best way to construct the door studs? was thinking as
follows:

run 2 full length studs from the sole plate to the head plate and
attach each one either side of the door opening and then cut 2 studs
the height of the door and attach these to the full length studs. Cut
the door head to length and attach to the top of the door height studs.
This method basically eliminates the requirement to channel a recess
into the door studs.

You could do it without the extra set of studs. The noggin above the
door can be set into a mortice on the studs, although for a light weight
door it would be fine just nailed/screwed in place.

One handy trick I was shown once, was to fit the lining with only three
or four screws each side, in a vertical line down the the centre of the
lining (i.e. under where the door stops will go). Then hang the door.
Now fix the stops. Then on the opening side of the door, cut some small
wedges (say 25mm long by 5mm thick at the fat end) and drive these into
the space between the edge of the wall and the lining. Use these as a
way of adjusting the position of the lining to get a precise even width
gap between it and the edge of the door for the whole hight of the door.
Setting the gap to about the width of a 2p looks good. Since the lining
is fixed in the centre there is enough give in it to allow this
adjustment. Once right, you can cut the ends of the wedges off flush
with the skim, and the ends of them plus any gap will be covered by the
architrave. Otherwise it is very difficult to get the gaps round the
door looking spot on.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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Thanks John appreciate it!

Richard

John Rumm wrote:

wrote:

1. The width of the door lining (frame) is 108mm wide and my studs are
100mm. With plasterboard (12.5mm) and skim this will stand proud by a
considerable amount, I'm obviously missing something here anyone care
to give me a lesson? Will the architrave just hide this and it should
be butted up to the edge of the plasterboard?


As the others have said, you have got the lining for a thinner wall....

2. Also is the door head the part that is supplied with the door
lining? I have a bit of wood which has 2 rebates at each end but on the


Yup flip it over to select the width you want...

3. What's the best way to construct the door studs? was thinking as
follows:

run 2 full length studs from the sole plate to the head plate and
attach each one either side of the door opening and then cut 2 studs
the height of the door and attach these to the full length studs. Cut
the door head to length and attach to the top of the door height studs.
This method basically eliminates the requirement to channel a recess
into the door studs.


You could do it without the extra set of studs. The noggin above the
door can be set into a mortice on the studs, although for a light weight
door it would be fine just nailed/screwed in place.

One handy trick I was shown once, was to fit the lining with only three
or four screws each side, in a vertical line down the the centre of the
lining (i.e. under where the door stops will go). Then hang the door.
Now fix the stops. Then on the opening side of the door, cut some small
wedges (say 25mm long by 5mm thick at the fat end) and drive these into
the space between the edge of the wall and the lining. Use these as a
way of adjusting the position of the lining to get a precise even width
gap between it and the edge of the door for the whole hight of the door.
Setting the gap to about the width of a 2p looks good. Since the lining
is fixed in the centre there is enough give in it to allow this
adjustment. Once right, you can cut the ends of the wedges off flush
with the skim, and the ends of them plus any gap will be covered by the
architrave. Otherwise it is very difficult to get the gaps round the
door looking spot on.



THAT IS VERY SOUND ADVICE.

Bloody caps lock. Sorry.