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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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When to use sharp sand and when to use "soft" sand?
I've always been unsure about when to use the different types of sand.
Obviously it's sharp sand for screed and builders sand for bricklaying mortar but can someone tell me why? I'm about to bed a shower tray with mortar (per manufacturers instructions) but can't decide whether to use sharp sand or builders sand - ? Dave |
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"Dave" wrote in message ... I've always been unsure about when to use the different types of sand. Obviously it's sharp sand for screed and builders sand for bricklaying mortar but can someone tell me why? I'm about to bed a shower tray with mortar (per manufacturers instructions) but can't decide whether to use sharp sand or builders sand - ? Dave I think it's to do with workability: soft sand has many grades of rounded particles, right down to clay. This makes it handle well and you can adjust bricks easily, the mortar made with soft sand supports the bricks but allows plenty of movement if you need it. Sharp sand has angular grains, less gradation, and I believe makes a stronger mortar, but it won't handle well or have the range of adjustment that soft-sand mortar does. My experience with soft-sand is very limited, but I have a fair bit with sharp sand, and found that if you didn't get the thickness off mortar right first time when bricklaying or laying paving stones on a solid bed of mortar, then if you tap the brick/paving down only a limited amount of adjustment occurs before it locks up solid, then it's take the brick/slab up and start again. It also allegedly doesn't handle well on a trowel. I built a wall using sharp sand as I wanted white mortar, and the local sharp sand is silver, but it wasn't easy. Supposedly mortar can be made to handle better by using a plasticiser, which is either lime, or a proprietary plasticiser, like PVA or Febmix ( or squeezy if you're a cheapo! ). I'm not an expert, but bedding something like a shower tray makes me think a mortar that allows a goodly amount of adjustment is best, so I'd try the soft sand. There is a special cement for bricklaying, masonry cement, that does not need additional plasticiser, but if you're using ordinary Portland cement, I think some lime or plasticiser added to the mix will be beneficial ( e.g. 1:1:6 lime/cement/sand ). PS: I defer to anyone else who's had years of experience in the trade and knows better! Andy. |
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Sharp sand is used for renders and screeds,also used dry for bedding block
paving and slabs. |
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On Fri, 27 May 2005 21:39:19 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote: I've always been unsure about when to use the different types of sand. Obviously it's sharp sand for screed and builders sand for bricklaying mortar but can someone tell me why? I'm about to bed a shower tray with mortar (per manufacturers instructions) but can't decide whether to use sharp sand or builders sand - ? Dave Have you come accross "washed sand" yet ? Rick |
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"Rick" wrote in message ... On Fri, 27 May 2005 21:39:19 +0000 (UTC), Dave wrote: I've always been unsure about when to use the different types of sand. Obviously it's sharp sand for screed and builders sand for bricklaying mortar but can someone tell me why? I'm about to bed a shower tray with mortar (per manufacturers instructions) but can't decide whether to use sharp sand or builders sand - ? Dave Have you come accross "washed sand" yet ? Yeah, I washed some building sand the other day. What stayed suspended in the water was a surprisingly large amount of something called limonite, which is a kind of clay tinted with yellow oxide. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5074 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
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I'm tempted to say that washed sand is what you get when you add a dash
of washing up liguid to the mortar to make it easier to work. Really it means that there is little or no clay and silt mixed in with the sand. This is not neccessarily an advantage. When making mortar with sand and lime, as oposed to Portland cement, a sound mortar can be obtained with less lime if there is some silt and clay in the aggregate. Limonite it not a kind of clay but is a hydrated iron oxide, usually amorphous or cryptocrystalline and often closely combined with colloidal silica, phosphates, clay minerals and organic decomposition products. It's a product of the weathering of iron bearing minerals and is responsible for mush of the yellow/brown colour of sand. There's not much limonite in silver sand! Geological pedant. |
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"Rick" wrote in message ... On 28 May 2005 14:12:45 -0700, wrote: I'm tempted to say that washed sand is what you get when you add a dash of washing up liguid to the mortar to make it easier to work. Never do this. Us proper plasticisers. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
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wrote in message oups.com... I'm tempted to say that washed sand is what you get when you add a dash of washing up liguid to the mortar to make it easier to work. Really it means that there is little or no clay and silt mixed in with the sand. This is not neccessarily an advantage. When making mortar with sand and lime, as oposed to Portland cement, a sound mortar can be obtained with less lime if there is some silt and clay in the aggregate. Limonite it not a kind of clay but is a hydrated iron oxide, usually amorphous or cryptocrystalline and often closely combined with colloidal silica, phosphates, clay minerals and organic decomposition products. It's a product of the weathering of iron bearing minerals and is responsible for mush of the yellow/brown colour of sand. It's the only time I've seen oxides freely suspended in water, which suggests the particles must either be incredibly small, or they are balanced by some or all of the combination products above. If the oxide content of limonite were higher it wouild presumably have a commercial value as an ochre. Geological pedant. Any geologist is better than none. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5096 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
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