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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Tiling questions
Hi
I have a really big job coming up in which i am having to tile approx 30sqm of wall. I have some questions mind you!!!! When tiling around a socket how do you get the pro look?? Do you unscrew the socket, tile behind it then rescrew it?? or do you cut around the socket and grout around it?? Also which do you prefer. 1. Making the seal beneath worktop and tile using two strips of masking tape, smoothing with your finger and then removing the tape when the sealant has gone tacky 2. sealing between the worktop and tile and just smoothing with your finger?? 3. When tiling onto boxing, do you treat the wood first to aid adhesive?? Boxing is 6mm marine ply. Col |
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Col wrote:
When tiling around a socket how do you get the pro look?? Do you unscrew the socket, tile behind it then rescrew it?? or do you cut around the socket and grout around it?? You tile behind the socket. Also which do you prefer. 1. Making the seal beneath worktop and tile using two strips of masking tape, smoothing with your finger and then removing the tape when the sealant has gone tacky 2. sealing between the worktop and tile and just smoothing with your finger?? Neither. Use a packing piece such as a strip of "cushionfloor" to keep the tiles off the worktop, and grout down to it. Remove the packing piece to leave a long slot. Apply masking tape along the bottom of the tiles, and along the worktop. Fill slot with silicone sealer. Finish with an appropriately shaped tool, such as a piece of electrical flex cut off cleanly. Remove tape, pulling away from the sealer to keep the finish good. 3. When tiling onto boxing, do you treat the wood first to aid adhesive?? Boxing is 6mm marine ply. Apply a coat or two of 3:1 water:PVA, apply tile adhesive immediately. |
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SO when tiling behind the socket do you grout around the socket or
silicone it? Working from the middle of the wall would you place your batten 1 tile up off the worktop? Bearing in mind the its only covering half the wall so would probably have to have either half tiles at the top of the tiling section or at the bottom (Worktop) When it comes to outward corners would you tile into the eye or out to the eye?? col |
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Col wrote:
SO when tiling behind the socket do you grout around the socket or silicone it? I just leave it as it is! Working from the middle of the wall would you place your batten 1 tile up off the worktop? Bearing in mind the its only covering half the wall so would probably have to have either half tiles at the top of the tiling section or at the bottom (Worktop) If the worktop is straight and level, as it should be, I'd tile straight off it (with spacers), and continue the line of the worktop with a batten. You don't really want to cut tiles on the worktop edge, put the half tiles at the top, or consider moving wall units so you can work whole tiles, or (better) use whole tiles, and hang the wall units over them (no fiddly cutting to do). When it comes to outward corners would you tile into the eye or out to the eye?? Not sure. Use RE if poss., or corner trim. |
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I have a really big job coming up in which i am having to tile approx 30sqm of wall. I have some questions mind you!!!! When tiling around a socket how do you get the pro look?? Do you unscrew the socket, tile behind it then rescrew it?? definitely or do you cut around the socket and grout around it?? looks awful IMO. Not that you can't tile round it neatly with a bit of effort but sunken sockets just look naff. If you're lucky, the bottom of the sockets will be exactly 6" above the worktop and, assuming your tiles are 6" I would jack the units up to this level if you're close. Then you only have to lay the tiles out so that none of the L shaped tiles for the row containing the sockets is too small to be self supporting. It's worth spending time marking all this out because, once the first tile is laid, there's no going back. Also which do you prefer. 1. Making the seal beneath worktop and tile using two strips of masking tape, smoothing with your finger and then removing the tape when the sealant has gone tacky 2. sealing between the worktop and tile and just smoothing with your finger?? I prefer to tile straight on to the worktop, then use method 1 above to get a small triangular seal. 3. When tiling onto boxing, do you treat the wood first to aid adhesive?? Boxing is 6mm marine ply. Ideally, yes, but the adhesive that comes in tubs sticks pretty well to ply/mdf/chip One tip. If the 30 sqm isn't pretty flat, I'd do some plastering first to level it up . Tile adhesive is a very expensive way to level a wall! -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5040 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
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Well lets just say that i have 2 kitchens 2 bathrooms, one shower room
and a lobby to half tile and paper!!! Im lucky in a sense that 1 kitchen, 1 bathroom, 1 shower room and the lobby are all plum stright walls but the other 2 rooms are a nightmare. The plasterer came to do the bathroom, he was as much use as a 10 week old bag of cement that has been left out in the rain. he tickled the walls and did nothing so i threw him out and did the job myself!!!! For an easy solution the plaster in the bathroom has rotted so im just boarding over it and creating a shelf as well, other than that the adehsive will just slide past the dips. Oh and im not paying for the materials so im not fussed!! And if those sockets in the kitchen are 6" above top then i will be a monkeys uncle. Like most things in this house straight means wonky, uneven, falling off!!! IVE NICKNAMED IT THE "MONEY PIT" Much to the annoyance of its owner!!!! |
#7
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On 27 May 2005 06:44:40 -0700, "Col"
wrote: Hi I have a really big job coming up in which i am having to tile approx 30sqm of wall. I have some questions mind you!!!! When tiling around a socket how do you get the pro look?? Do you unscrew the socket, tile behind it then rescrew it?? or do you cut around the socket and grout around it?? I have just put in a length of worktop and tiled above it with 2 new sockets .I used drywall boxes and tiled on top then fitted the socket faces .That is by far the neatest way to do it .The tiles fit flat on to the tiles .If not using drywall boxes then sink the boxes flush to the wall first then tile then fit the socket faces .You might need longer screws for this . Also which do you prefer. 1. Making the seal beneath worktop and tile using two strips of masking tape, smoothing with your finger and then removing the tape when the sealant has gone tacky 2. sealing between the worktop and tile and just smoothing with your finger?? I tiled above the ( level ) worktop leaving a space by using a tile spacer .Then used masking tape at the foot of the tiles and along the worktop and applied the sealant to the space and smoothed it over using a suitable implement . Stuart Shift THELEVER to reply. |
#8
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I think all your questions have been answered so the best bit of advise I
can give you is Buy an electric tile cutter, it doesn't have to be a posh one, I think mine is a b&q own brand about £25, don't even think about using anything else Regards Jeff |
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On Sat, 28 May 2005 11:22:28 +0100, "Jeff" wrote:
I think all your questions have been answered so the best bit of advise I can give you is Buy an electric tile cutter, it doesn't have to be a posh one, I think mine is a b&q own brand about £25, don't even think about using anything else Regards Jeff I'll second that .Whether it is for straight cuts or odd shapes .They are the bees knees. Can be a bit messsy,especially if you keep the guard up to see what you are doing and doing that uses up more water out of the reservoir as well. Stuart Shift THELEVER to reply. |
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"Stuart" wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 May 2005 11:22:28 +0100, "Jeff" wrote: I think all your questions have been answered so the best bit of advise I can give you is Buy an electric tile cutter, it doesn't have to be a posh one, I think mine is a b&q own brand about £25, don't even think about using anything else You are joking of course. On straight cuts they take forever compared to the score and snap type. The time it would add to a whole room doesn't bear thinking about, not to mention the mess. I don't think you'll see pros using saws for anything other than the odd difficult cut. Even on L shapes you only need saw the short side. However, you do need the type where the snap is done without having to re-position the tile (Rubi and similar). They are an absolute doddle to use and will snap cleanly down to half an inch. The early Plasplugs type where you had to accurately place the tile in the jaws after scoring were a pain and, unfortunately, turned people off snappers altogether. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5074 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
#11
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Stuart Noble wrote:
"Stuart" wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 May 2005 11:22:28 +0100, "Jeff" wrote: I think all your questions have been answered so the best bit of advise I can give you is Buy an electric tile cutter, it doesn't have to be a posh one, I think mine is a b&q own brand about £25, don't even think about using anything else You are joking of course. On straight cuts they take forever compared to the score and snap type. The time it would add to a whole room doesn't bear thinking about, not to mention the mess. I don't think you'll see pros using saws for anything other than the odd difficult cut. Even on L shapes you only need saw the short side. However, you do need the type where the snap is done without having to re-position the tile (Rubi and similar). They are an absolute doddle to use and will snap cleanly down to half an inch. The early Plasplugs type where you had to accurately place the tile in the jaws after scoring were a pain and, unfortunately, turned people off snappers altogether. Although I accept that for professional tiles doing large areas score and snap will work, and is faster... (i) it leaves a sharp edge wich I always sand off anyway. (ii) It can't do corner cuts, and nibbling always breaks more tiles than the tile saw. (iii) it can't do curves, whereas with ingenuity, a tile saw can produce remarkably goood curves to fit round pipes etc. (iv) currently a tile saw is as cheap as a decent score and snap system, and will actually last LONGER than a cheap one. (v) Score and snap will not reliably prooduce tile sections less than about 30mm wide. (vi) For an amateur, a tiles saw will probabkly result in less wastage of expensive tiles. For those reasons I would unhesitatingly recommend tile saws to every single D-I-Yer in preference to a score and snap system. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5074 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
#12
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"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message Although I accept that for professional tiles doing large areas score and snap will work, and is faster... (i) it leaves a sharp edge wich I always sand off anyway. With just a light score you get a perfect edge, which is of course sharp. Normally hidden by grout anyway. (ii) It can't do corner cuts, and nibbling always breaks more tiles than the tile saw. (iii) it can't do curves, whereas with ingenuity, a tile saw can produce remarkably goood curves to fit round pipes etc. (iv) currently a tile saw is as cheap as a decent score and snap system, and will actually last LONGER than a cheap one. (v) Score and snap will not reliably prooduce tile sections less than about 30mm wide .. If you're on your last box of tiles, this is true. If you've got loads left over, it'll snap off 15mm :-) (vi) For an amateur, a tiles saw will probabkly result in less wastage of expensive tiles. Can't disagree with the above, but the proportion of difficult cuts to straight is pretty small. One course of tiles round a bathroom could easily mean 70-80 straight cuts. You really need both tools -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5150 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! |
#13
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Col wrote:
Hi I have a really big job coming up in which i am having to tile approx 30sqm of wall. I have some questions mind you!!!! When tiling around a socket how do you get the pro look?? Do you unscrew the socket, tile behind it then rescrew it?? or do you cut around the socket and grout around it?? I'm surprised nobodies thought of a tiling range, with integrated socket tiles. |
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