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  #1   Report Post  
 
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Default Build it yourself trailers - companies selling kits?

I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?

--
Chris Green - at home
  #2   Report Post  
Mary Fisher
 
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wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?

--
Chris Green - at home


There's a place in Leeds which sells components (rather than kits) but I
guess that's a bit far for you?

Mary


  #3   Report Post  
Christian McArdle
 
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My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.


All the mechanical bits are available easily.

They seem to be cheapest on

www.trailerpartswarehouse.co.uk.

You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard), but they are very useful for ground handling. If your car
isn't huge, you might even need brakes below 750kg.

Twin axle is nice. They make it more stable to drive and more stable to
load. However, it will increase costs as you have twice as much of most of
the mechicanal components, although for the same trailer rating, lower rated
(i.e. cheaper) components can be used as the load is shared.

So, if you're going for a single axle braked, I'd get something like:

BB1300 1300kg braked suspension unit * 2 = 217.04
SW385J6 185x13 6ply 4x5.5"pcd * 2 = 193.64
PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01
Total = 526.69 (rated up to 1300kg, upgradable to 1500kg cheaply if
required)

For twin axle, I'd get
BB750 750kg braked suspension unit * 4 = 412.84
SW150C6 500x10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 146.64
PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01
Total = 675.49 (rated up to 1500kg)
This could cheaply be upgraded to much higher ratings if required.

Single axle unbraked is much cheaper:
TG750 750kg short stub suspension unit * 2 = 57.88
HG505S hub 4x4" pcd 1" dia stub *2 = 30.50
SW150C6 500X10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 73.32
BA254 Al-Ko 50mm coupling 50mm box = 15.05
Total = 175.75 (rated to 750kg)
This ratng can't be increased. There will be no handbrake or vehicle service
braking.

If buying any of these components, check with the supplier that they are
indeed compatible.

The braked versions will also require a number of sundries, such as brake
balance plates, etc. These are not expensive.

Then you just need some angle iron and a welder. I'm sure you can find some
designs with a little searching. You can fit the sides and floor with
plywood or mesh as you see fit. Make sure it is strong enough for your
chosen rating.

The suspension units just bolt onto the chassis near the middle. Ensure that
empty, it weighs down on the coupling. Don't forget the electrics, which are
simple as anything.

Christian.


  #5   Report Post  
Autolycus
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?

Indespension used to do (and may still sell) a "trailer manual" which
included sketch designs and parts list, as well as much useful stuff on
trailers and towing in general. I've always found them expensive for
parts, and the service at my local branch is, shall we say, not always
the most helpful. Abbey Trailers, in Derby, otoh, are extraordinarily
pleasant to deal with. Dunno about a website, mind, I don't think
they've had the electric all that long.

Rubber-in-compression suspension units (Indespension, Avonride, Bradley,
many others) are, to me, appallingly crude pieces of engineering, but
people still buy them. Once they start failing the wheel alignment goes
to pot and they wear tyres out very quickly. Ifor Williams used to use
multi-leaf springs, and now use parabolics, but such axles and
suspension are harder to buy and to design round.

If you decide to buy secondhand, wheel bearings have a hard life, and
often seem minimally-specified. Taper rollers are usually wrongly
adjusted, inadequately maintained, and can fail spectacularly and
rapidly. Brake parts are ludicrously expensive, even simple bits like
shoes. If a trailer has been neglected (most have), the hitch can be
badly worn, both the coupling head and the shaft. Even folk who will
sanctimoniously preach "only the finest" with car tyres seem to fit any
old tyres to trailers, regardless of load rating or condition. Make
sure your chosen tyre size is sensibly available - Ifor Williams are
noted for using sizes like 145R10C 8ply and 185/60R12C, which you won't
find at your average tyre shop. The caravan accessories section of your
local free ads paper will probably have some unused wheels and high
load-rating tyres, but there are many combinations or rim width, offset,
and stud spacing.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***
Car Transport by Tiltbed Trailer - based near Derby




  #6   Report Post  
Baz
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?

--
Chris Green - at home


http://www.indespension.co.uk/

http://www.towsure.com/

My 5 eggs.
Baz


  #7   Report Post  
Rob Morley
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , "Autolycus" nov2004
@mainbeam.co.uk says...
snip
Rubber-in-compression suspension units (Indespension, Avonride, Bradley,
many others) are, to me, appallingly crude pieces of engineering, but
people still buy them.


You could always use the back end of an old car ...
  #8   Report Post  
Rick
 
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Default

On Mon, 23 May 2005 11:25:24 +0100, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.


All the mechanical bits are available easily.

They seem to be cheapest on

www.trailerpartswarehouse.co.uk.

You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard), but they are very useful for ground handling. If your car
isn't huge, you might even need brakes below 750kg.

Twin axle is nice. They make it more stable to drive and more stable to
load. However, it will increase costs as you have twice as much of most of
the mechicanal components, although for the same trailer rating, lower rated
(i.e. cheaper) components can be used as the load is shared.

So, if you're going for a single axle braked, I'd get something like:

BB1300 1300kg braked suspension unit * 2 = 217.04
SW385J6 185x13 6ply 4x5.5"pcd * 2 = 193.64
PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01
Total = 526.69 (rated up to 1300kg, upgradable to 1500kg cheaply if
required)

For twin axle, I'd get
BB750 750kg braked suspension unit * 4 = 412.84
SW150C6 500x10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 146.64
PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01
Total = 675.49 (rated up to 1500kg)
This could cheaply be upgraded to much higher ratings if required.

Single axle unbraked is much cheaper:
TG750 750kg short stub suspension unit * 2 = 57.88
HG505S hub 4x4" pcd 1" dia stub *2 = 30.50
SW150C6 500X10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 73.32
BA254 Al-Ko 50mm coupling 50mm box = 15.05
Total = 175.75 (rated to 750kg)
This ratng can't be increased. There will be no handbrake or vehicle service
braking.

If buying any of these components, check with the supplier that they are
indeed compatible.

The braked versions will also require a number of sundries, such as brake
balance plates, etc. These are not expensive.

Then you just need some angle iron and a welder. I'm sure you can find some
designs with a little searching. You can fit the sides and floor with
plywood or mesh as you see fit. Make sure it is strong enough for your
chosen rating.

The suspension units just bolt onto the chassis near the middle. Ensure that
empty, it weighs down on the coupling. Don't forget the electrics, which are
simple as anything.

Christian.


Twin axle has many advantages, but if you intend man handeling the
thing, the extra tyres make it a real PITA to turn.

Rick

  #9   Report Post  
Christian McArdle
 
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Twin axle has many advantages, but if you intend man handeling the
thing, the extra tyres make it a real PITA to turn.


Odd. I much prefered manhandling the 3500kg MAM twin axle I hired than the
single axle 750kg braked trailer. It could be steered easily by pulling on
the hitch. The fact that all points in contact with the ground had pneumatic
tyres, made it easier to push than the single axle with the solid rubber
jockey wheel with loads of friction.

Note that this would not include pushing at their maximum weights, but
largely empty...

Christian.


  #10   Report Post  
Roger R
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
t...
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard), but they are very useful for ground handling. If your car
isn't huge, you might even need brakes below 750kg.


Your design will need to take account of the restriction implied by the weight
of the towing vehicle. IIRC the maximum weight of trailer and load must not
exceed the weight of the car. So the heavier you make the trailer -extra
wheels, brakes etc, the more you reduce the load that can be carried.

If you have a light car you may be better off with the lightest unbraked trailer
design you can get.

Roger




  #11   Report Post  
Lobster
 
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Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly
be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever
way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming
camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am
naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with
(liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David

  #12   Report Post  
Mike
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?


Check out if you have a local Indespension shop. Years ago they used to do
leaflets describing several designs of trailer.


  #13   Report Post  
Dave Liquorice
 
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Default

On Mon, 23 May 2005 18:04:01 GMT, Lobster wrote:

What's a ball-park figure for the density of rubble? (I suppose it
will be very variable).


IIRC a cube yard is ball park a ton. So dependinh on how well packed
the rubble was...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



  #14   Report Post  
Rick Hughes
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.


Indespension .... as well as all the suspension units, they sell all the
bits, including welded up frames ... the Indespension catalogue is a must
have.

Rick


  #15   Report Post  
Rick Hughes
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble?


a tonne per m3




  #16   Report Post  
Rick Hughes
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Autolycus" wrote in message
...

wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.

Any ideas anyone?

Indespension used to do (and may still sell) a "trailer manual" which
included sketch designs and parts list, as well as much useful stuff on
trailers and towing in general. I've always found them expensive for
parts, and the service at my local branch is, shall we say, not always the
most helpful. Abbey Trailers, in Derby, otoh, are extraordinarily
pleasant to deal with. Dunno about a website, mind, I don't think they've
had the electric all that long.

Rubber-in-compression suspension units (Indespension, Avonride, Bradley,
many others) are, to me, appallingly crude pieces of engineering, but
people still buy them. Once they start failing the wheel alignment goes to
pot and they wear tyres out very quickly. Ifor Williams used to use
multi-leaf springs, and now use parabolics, but such axles and suspension
are harder to buy and to design round.

If you decide to buy secondhand, wheel bearings have a hard life, and
often seem minimally-specified. Taper rollers are usually wrongly
adjusted, inadequately maintained, and can fail spectacularly and rapidly.
Brake parts are ludicrously expensive, even simple bits like shoes. If a
trailer has been neglected (most have), the hitch can be badly worn, both
the coupling head and the shaft. Even folk who will sanctimoniously
preach "only the finest" with car tyres seem to fit any old tyres to
trailers, regardless of load rating or condition. Make sure your chosen
tyre size is sensibly available - Ifor Williams are noted for using sizes
like 145R10C 8ply and 185/60R12C, which you won't find at your average
tyre shop. The caravan accessories section of your local free ads paper
will probably have some unused wheels and high load-rating tyres, but
there are many combinations or rim width, offset, and stud spacing.


The latter points are important ... I built a trailer, after a couple of
years one the suspension units failed (constant dunking in salt water) the
replacement bolted on OK ... but the wheels then rubbed against trailer ...
the offset of the wheels required for new suspension units was different.

Rick


  #17   Report Post  
dennis@home
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If
you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble?


a tonne per m3


That sounds a bit on the low side to me.
I thought concrete was 2-3 tonnes per m3 so rubble should be close.


  #18   Report Post  
Lobster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

dennis@home wrote:
"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble?


a tonne per m3



That sounds a bit on the low side to me.
I thought concrete was 2-3 tonnes per m3 so rubble should be close.


Erm... either way: oops!

David
  #19   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Roger R wrote:

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
t...
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard), but they are very useful for ground handling. If your car
isn't huge, you might even need brakes below 750kg.


Your design will need to take account of the restriction implied by the weight
of the towing vehicle. IIRC the maximum weight of trailer and load must not
exceed the weight of the car. So the heavier you make the trailer -extra
wheels, brakes etc, the more you reduce the load that can be carried.

In actual fact there is no legal limit on the weight a private car can
tow. See:-
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/group...ds_506866.hcsp

If you have a light car you may be better off with the lightest unbraked trailer
design you can get.

In reality that of course may well be true.

--
Chris Green
  #20   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Rick Hughes wrote:

wrote in message ...
I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are
there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I
want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it)
and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't
have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be
fine.


Indespension .... as well as all the suspension units, they sell all the
bits, including welded up frames ... the Indespension catalogue is a must
have.

We have a local Indespension but their web site had nothing much
useful that I could see. Maybe I'll visit them.

--
Chris Green


  #21   Report Post  
Rick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 23 May 2005 18:04:01 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly
be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever
way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming
camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am
naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with
(liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David


1 - 2 tonnes a cubic meter for rubble, and unbraked you have to be
less than 1/3 of the weight of the towing car.

Which basically means you can tow virtually no rubble.

Rick

  #22   Report Post  
Rick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 23 May 2005 20:48:52 GMT, "dennis@home"
wrote:


"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If
you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)

Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble?


a tonne per m3


That sounds a bit on the low side to me.
I thought concrete was 2-3 tonnes per m3 so rubble should be close.


Wet concrete is arround 2.5 tonnes per cube, so rubble will be less
due to the air gaps.

Rick

  #24   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Rick wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2005 18:04:01 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly
be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever
way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming
camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am
naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with
(liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David


1 - 2 tonnes a cubic meter for rubble, and unbraked you have to be
less than 1/3 of the weight of the towing car.

Not true I don't think, see:-
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/group...ds_506866.hcsp

The limit for an unbraked trailer behind a private car is simply 750kg
and that's it.

--
Chris Green
  #25   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote:
Rick wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2005 18:04:01 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)

Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly
be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever
way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming
camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am
naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with
(liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David


1 - 2 tonnes a cubic meter for rubble, and unbraked you have to be
less than 1/3 of the weight of the towing car.

Not true I don't think, see:-
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/group...ds_506866.hcsp

The limit for an unbraked trailer behind a private car is simply 750kg
and that's it.

No, sorry, there *is* a limit on the relative weight of an unbraked
trailer even though there isn't a general limit. I quote from the
above:-
"In use it is not permitted to use an unbraked trailer the laden
weight of which exceeds 50% of the kerbside weight of the towing
vehicle."

--
Chris Green


  #26   Report Post  
The Natural Philosopher
 
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Default

Rick Hughes wrote:
"Lobster" wrote in message
...

Christian McArdle wrote:

You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)


Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble?



a tonne per m3


A bit more if its concrete rather than brick...
  #27   Report Post  
Rick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 24 May 2005 08:23:03 GMT, wrote:

wrote:
Rick wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2005 18:04:01 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

Christian McArdle wrote:
You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're
taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they
required for 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or
plasterboard)

Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden
unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the
density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly
be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever
way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming
camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am
naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with
(liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David

1 - 2 tonnes a cubic meter for rubble, and unbraked you have to be
less than 1/3 of the weight of the towing car.

Not true I don't think, see:-
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/group...ds_506866.hcsp

The limit for an unbraked trailer behind a private car is simply 750kg
and that's it.

No, sorry, there *is* a limit on the relative weight of an unbraked
trailer even though there isn't a general limit. I quote from the
above:-
"In use it is not permitted to use an unbraked trailer the laden
weight of which exceeds 50% of the kerbside weight of the towing
vehicle."


Sorry, I was out with my actual figure, but the point remains true, as
most cars don't weight that much, an unbraked trailer can only take a
small volume of rubble.

Rick

  #28   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Rick wrote:
1 - 2 tonnes a cubic meter for rubble, and unbraked you have to be
less than 1/3 of the weight of the towing car.

Not true I don't think, see:-
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/group...ds_506866.hcsp

The limit for an unbraked trailer behind a private car is simply 750kg
and that's it.

No, sorry, there *is* a limit on the relative weight of an unbraked
trailer even though there isn't a general limit. I quote from the
above:-
"In use it is not permitted to use an unbraked trailer the laden
weight of which exceeds 50% of the kerbside weight of the towing
vehicle."


Sorry, I was out with my actual figure, but the point remains true, as
most cars don't weight that much, an unbraked trailer can only take a
small volume of rubble.

We run two Citroen XMs, both have towbars. If I remember right their
kerb weight is something like 1400kg so we'd be able to take an unbraked
trailer up to nearly its maximum weight. I know the XM is a big car but
modern cars are actually rather heavier than older ones, partly because
we all drive bigger cars than we used to.

There are not so many unbraked trailers that are rated for 750kg
anyway, the typical 'small trailer' seems to be in the 300kg to 500kg
range.

--
Chris Green
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