Hi all

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along, I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised that it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?

TIAAA
Suzanne

"Suz" wrote in message
...
Hi all

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised that
it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?

TIAAA
Suzanne


If you want glossy black, then give them a coat of Hammerite Enamel Black.
Lasts for years, but looks cheap and cheesy on wrought iron gates, in my
personal opinion. Your gate were more than likely given a matt coat to make
them look rich and antique. Were they?

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised that
it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?

TIAAA
Suzanne


If you want glossy black, then give them a coat of Hammerite Enamel Black.
Lasts for years, but looks cheap and cheesy on wrought iron gates, in my
personal opinion. Your gate were more than likely given a matt coat to
make
them look rich and antique. Were they?


I choose the matt black because the glossy black reminded me too much of the
council's bins - and I agree is a bit cheesy too. But the problem is this
white 'bloom' that gives an extremely dull look and makes them look grey
rather than black. I don't want very shiny, but I would like them as black
as possible. Maybe the glossy finish is more hard wearing?

Would Hammerite stick to powder coating?

And I am ****ed off as the whole point of the powder coating was to avoid
any painting. And it wasn't cheap as we had 7 individual bits to get done.

Suz

"Suz" wrote in message
...

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss,
and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came
along,
I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a
sponge
pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised
that
it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of
grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case,
and
if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?

TIAAA
Suzanne


If you want glossy black, then give them a coat of Hammerite Enamel
Black.
Lasts for years, but looks cheap and cheesy on wrought iron gates, in my
personal opinion. Your gate were more than likely given a matt coat to
make
them look rich and antique. Were they?


I choose the matt black because the glossy black reminded me too much of
the
council's bins - and I agree is a bit cheesy too. But the problem is this
white 'bloom' that gives an extremely dull look and makes them look grey
rather than black. I don't want very shiny, but I would like them as
black
as possible. Maybe the glossy finish is more hard wearing?

Would Hammerite stick to powder coating?

And I am ****ed off as the whole point of the powder coating was to avoid
any painting. And it wasn't cheap as we had 7 individual bits to get
done.

Suz



The powder coating is expensive, but it does look great.

The Hammerite range comes in a matt black as well, so you could use that
instead of shiny gloss.

On Wed, 11 May 2005 17:58:43 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:

If you want glossy black, then give them a coat of Hammerite Enamel Black.

It doesn't last ten minutes on thin steel gates (Hammerite is too
stiff, and doesn't like the bending). Over powder coat you won't even
get five minutes.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 May 2005 17:58:43 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:

If you want glossy black, then give them a coat of Hammerite Enamel Black.

It doesn't last ten minutes on thin steel gates (Hammerite is too
stiff, and doesn't like the bending). Over powder coat you won't even
get five minutes.


Gates are handmade and aren't thin - the metal used is about twice standard
gates - a friend's husband has a forge in his backyard for a hobby, so money
went into the materials.

Any ideas on the dulling?

On Wed, 11 May 2005 23:18:38 +0100, "Suz" wrote:

Gates are handmade and aren't thin

If you can move the weight, they're thin! Hammerite is _rubbish_ stuff,
that has never worked anything like as well as its reputation claimed.
Smoothrite is little better. One particular defect in it is that it's
very stiff and has poor adhesion - so any bending of the substrate
(which is pretty inevitable on a gate) encourages it to crack off.

Any ideas on the dulling?

I hate powder coat - I've never seen it look good when it's more than a
year or two old. This crappy "matt" finish is even worse - it's just not
leaving it in the fuser for long enough. Unless you've done the
ironwork carefully and either broken all the sharp edges or made it from
hot-rolled, you can see problems with splitting along the edges too.
Then you get the usual powder-coat problem, which is rusting underneath.

But you could try silicone oil pervert polish - as used on rubberwear.

In article ,
says...
On Wed, 11 May 2005 23:18:38 +0100, "Suz" wrote:

Gates are handmade and aren't thin

If you can move the weight, they're thin! Hammerite is _rubbish_ stuff,
that has never worked anything like as well as its reputation claimed.
Smoothrite is little better. One particular defect in it is that it's
very stiff and has poor adhesion - so any bending of the substrate
(which is pretty inevitable on a gate) encourages it to crack off.

Any ideas on the dulling?

I hate powder coat - I've never seen it look good when it's more than a
year or two old. This crappy "matt" finish is even worse - it's just not
leaving it in the fuser for long enough. Unless you've done the
ironwork carefully and either broken all the sharp edges or made it from
hot-rolled, you can see problems with splitting along the edges too.
Then you get the usual powder-coat problem, which is rusting underneath.

But you could try silicone oil pervert polish - as used on rubberwear.

I think you may be confusing powder coating and dipping. Dipping will
show this characteristic de-lamination along arrises etc.

Powder doesn't really differ from ordinary paint with the exception of
the use of an electrostatic charge to assist the particles adhere to the
surface prior to stove enamelling. Its adhesion is generally very good.

I tend to agree with you about Hammerite. It is greatly over-hyped and
ludicrously expensive. The hammered effect is no more than a re-action
similar to that of fish eye found when varnishes are used on a surface
contaminated with silicone (sp?). Its sole advantage to me is its
availability in small tins. Similarily fast drying synthetic enamels are
usually available in trade sized tins only. I've never got a good finish
with it.

To revert to the o.p.s quandary.

I would be inclined to try 'T' cut in a small area before rushing to
overcoat the entire set of gates
--
Paul Mc Cann

Suz wrote:
We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,

I

began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

Black boot polish? T-cut? Clean it up and spray on black cellulose?

"Suz" wrote in message
...
Hi all

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised that
it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?


Might be worth trying some of that Back To Black stuff used for car bumpers

Regards Jeff

In article , Jeff
writes

"Suz" wrote in message
.. .
Hi all

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I
began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot
scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised that
it
has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of grey-green
dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if
so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?


Might be worth trying some of that Back To Black stuff used for car bumpers

I was going to suggest that, but it doesn't last very long. It's mostly
silicone oil which is good for a quick tarting up but would weather off
quickly.

You'd have no chance of painting on top of it either, if you later
wanted to try paint.
--
Tim Mitchell

On Thu, 12 May 2005 07:16:48 +0100, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Powder doesn't really differ from ordinary paint with the exception of
the use of an electrostatic charge to assist the particles adhere to the
surface prior to stove enamelling.

That's electrostatic spraying. You're applying what's basically standard
paint, but the static charge improves coverage especially round the
back, on corners and in shadowed areas. For flat sheet it's no better
than a simple spraygun, but it's a good improvement for complex shapes
(such as gates).

Powder coating is "coating with a powder", pretty much by definition. A
slightly sticky _powder_ is sprayed with an electrostatic gun, then it's
heated in a stove enamelling oven and only then does the powder fuse. If
you limit this fusion time, there's enough fusion to make it stick, but
not enough to make the surface glossy. You're thus a bit at risk of
operator skill here - too little fusion gives a guaranteed matt without
shiny patches, but it can also be porous (usually on the bottom edges of
rails)

Dipping is similar to powder coating, but it's done by dipping in a
fluidised bed of powder (a bucket, with air blown through the bottom).
It's reasonable to describe either as "powder coating", unless specified
in more detail.

The problem with powder coating is similar to that of Hammerite - the
coating itself is far stronger than the adhesion to the substrate. If
you annoy it, it loses the bond and you get the coating peeling off
wholesale. Dipping gives a thicker coat, so it's more prone to this.
However sprayed powder coatings can be thin on edges, so they may be
more susceptible to wear and the first delamination starting.

Personally I'd much rather hot-dip galvanise a gate, then let it weather
on its own.

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 12 May 2005 07:16:48 +0100, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Powder doesn't really differ from ordinary paint with the exception of
the use of an electrostatic charge to assist the particles adhere to the
surface prior to stove enamelling.

That's electrostatic spraying.

Precisely

You're applying what's basically standard
paint, but the static charge improves coverage especially round the
back, on corners and in shadowed areas. For flat sheet it's no better
than a simple spraygun, but it's a good improvement for complex shapes
(such as gates).

I'm afraid you are only confusing yourself again. Powder coating is
applied electrostatically exactly as I said

Powder coating is "coating with a powder", pretty much by definition.

The powder is only a type of paint in a powder form. Its a mixture of
resins and colouring compounds. (i.e.) Paint. It flows out when heated.

slightly sticky _powder_ is sprayed with an electrostatic gun,

as I said originally

then it's
heated in a stove enamelling oven and only then does the powder fuse. If
you limit this fusion time, there's enough fusion to make it stick, but
not enough to make the surface glossy. You're thus a bit at risk of
operator skill here - too little fusion gives a guaranteed matt without
shiny patches, but it can also be porous (usually on the bottom edges of
rails)


Its not rocket science any half trained operator can control the
application. If your local shop can't do it then find one that can.
Personally we use several different commercial sprayers to spray and
stove enamel steel frames, and have used many different shops over the
years. None had any problems in this area.

Dipping is similar to powder coating, but it's done by dipping in a
fluidised bed of powder (a bucket, with air blown through the bottom).
It's reasonable to describe either as "powder coating", unless specified
in more detail.

No. Your confused again. Dipping is mereley dunking in paint. Specially
formatted paint/lacquer given, but essentially just liquid paint. It can
give a very heavy coat, hence its popularity, but improper substrate
preparation can lead to quick deterioration and delamination. Most paint
brush handles are dipped.

The problem with powder coating is similar to that of Hammerite - the
coating itself is far stronger than the adhesion to the substrate.
If you annoy it, it loses the bond and you get the coating peeling off
wholesale. Dipping gives a thicker coat, so it's more prone to this.
However sprayed powder coatings can be thin on edges, so they may be
more susceptible to wear and the first delamination starting.

I really don't know where you are going with this. There is very little
valid comparison to be made between a powder coated stove enamelled
finish and air dryed Hammerite. The adhesive properties of any paint are
primarily down to the proper preparation and etch priming, if necessary,
of the sub strate. The thickness of the coat has little relevance to the
bond strength. Electrostatically applied coatings excel on edges due to
the nature of the application

Personally I'd much rather hot-dip galvanise a gate, then let it weather
on its own.

Its apples and pears. While I would agree that galvanising is a much
better protector of steel than paint its unreal to talk about
galvanising and any of the readily available paint processes in the same
breath.

Back to the o.p. Personally I think a powder coated stove enamelled
finish was the next best thing to galvanising. The dulling/greying of
the paint may be down to the quality of paint used and the actual
colour. Darker colours and reds will show these tendencies quicker than
most.

--
Paul Mc Cann

On Thu, 12 May 2005 20:01:11 +0100, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

The powder is only a type of paint in a powder form. Its a mixture of
resins and colouring compounds. (i.e.) Paint. It flows out when heated.

Paint is generally taken to mean a liquid, with either a resin which
cures on exposure to air, or a solvent which evaporates. If you want to
term a non-flowing, non-curing, non-dissolved powder as "paint" then you
can of course have words mean anything you like. But that's like Alice
talking to Humpty Dumpty.

Its not rocket science any half trained operator can control the
application.

But you need a conscientious operator. Skimping on spray time around the
corners, or fusing it for a bit too short a time to stop glossies, all
improve throughput but they reduce quality.

Personally we use several different commercial sprayers to spray and
stove enamel steel frames,

I'm loath to say that "stove enamel" can't apply to powder coating,
because it's certainly stoved, but the name is usually applied to a wet
paint process that's stoved, not powder.

No. Your confused again. Dipping is mereley dunking in paint.

Of course it is. But we're talking about powder coating, not paint. You
can obviously dip in paint (your paintbrushes), or in liquid rubbers
(plier handles) or in powder. Shouting "You're wrong, I was talking
about Nutella dip, yah boo" is just playground sophistry.

And for that matter, you can powder dip either hot or cold
(electrostatically). Hot dip is the one for the thick coatings,
electrostatic dip is the one that can have problems with sharp edges, if
you're too careless withdrawing from the bath (too roughly, too early).

Electrostatically applied coatings excel on edges due to
the nature of the application

Yes, but the flow afterwards tends to reduce this. Over stove a powder
coat and the edges thin out as surface tension pulls the coating
inwards.

We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised
that it has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of
grey-green dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?

A further point to this: if you scratch a tiny area with your nail, it
looks like there is a shiny surface underneath. the "scratch" mark stays
there, but if you rub it with your thumb is goes and looks evenly dull
again. Whatever this top layer is, is seems to smudge around in a circle
easily.

This has two implications:

1. This layer may be removeable if it is identifiable, but what is it?


2. If it can't be removed, will it cause a problem for painting over?


Any ideas on these specific points please?

Suzanne

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 12 May 2005 20:01:11 +0100, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

The powder is only a type of paint in a powder form. Its a mixture of
resins and colouring compounds. (i.e.) Paint. It flows out when heated.

Paint is generally taken to mean a liquid, with either a resin which
cures on exposure to air, or a solvent which evaporates. If you want to
term a non-flowing, non-curing, non-dissolved powder as "paint" then you
can of course have words mean anything you like. But that's like Alice
talking to Humpty Dumpty.


I.M.E. powder coating is invariably termed as a type of paint. It is
applied by electrostatic spray on to a surface, stove enamelled and the
finished product pereforms the same function as and is identical to
liquid paint. It is generally applied by spray painters in what are
generally paint shops.

If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, its a duck

Its not rocket science any half trained operator can control the
application.

But you need a conscientious operator. Skimping on spray time around the
corners, or fusing it for a bit too short a time to stop glossies, all
improve throughput but they reduce quality.

Any operation needs a good operator. Even brush applied finishes require
a good operator. Applying powder coating is no different, nor is it in
any way dificult to attain good finishes which is one of the reasons it
is often preferred. (i.e.) Its harder to make a crigs of the job with
powder coating than it is with liquid paint. While no great hand at
spray painting I easily obtained a good finish with powder coating the
first time I tried it.

Personally we use several different commercial sprayers to spray and
stove enamel steel frames,

I'm loath to say that "stove enamel" can't apply to powder coating,
because it's certainly stoved, but the name is usually applied to a wet
paint process that's stoved, not powder.

Its a stove enamel finish. Its baked in an oven after application. No-
one I know in the paint industry would call it anything else. Why would
they for heavens sake ? Its baked in an oven. What else would they call
it. Its not worth a tinkers curse unless it is stove enamelled. Unlike
wet paints which can be air drying it is always baked as part of the
process. The term stove enamelled most certainly is not applied only to
wet finishes.


No. Your confused again. Dipping is mereley dunking in paint.

Of course it is. But we're talking about powder coating, not paint.


can obviously dip in paint (your paintbrushes), or in liquid rubbers
(plier handles) or in powder. Shouting "You're wrong, I was talking
about Nutella dip, yah boo" is just playground sophistry.

There was no sophism in what I stated, just plain and simple facts. A
'dipping finish' is generally understood to be in a liquid medium. The
problems you were attributing to what you termed as a dipping finish are
those met with when wet dipping.

And for that matter, you can powder dip either hot or cold
(electrostatically). Hot dip is the one for the thick coatings,
electrostatic dip is the one that can have problems with sharp edges, if
you're too careless withdrawing from the bath (too roughly, too early).

Electrostatically applied coatings excel on edges due to
the nature of the application

Yes, but the flow afterwards tends to reduce this.

This is a problem with all paints and is not peculiar to powder coating

Over stove a powder
coat and the edges thin out as surface tension pulls the coating
inwards.

There you go again. The improper use of any finish will degrade it. The
problem lies in the operation not in the product. The fact that we
talking about powder coating here is fairly irrelevant in this context.

Among the various reasons powder coating is preferred by the spray shops
are primarily its ease of application and its ease of obtaining a good
even finish. All this talk about operator error, poor adhesion, pooor
coverage on corners is just that. Talk. No-one I know complains about
powder coating in these terms. Possibly books make reference to these
things but they are not regarded as problems particular to powder
coating by the trade i.m.e. The main complaint I ever hear about powder
is the cost of the raw material.









--
Paul Mc Cann

Oi you 2!
What about a direct answer to my points rather than a discussion on the
vagaries of powder coating and associated terms?
See the last post.

Suz wrote:
We got front gates made about 3 years ago and the finished gates powder
coated in black. The finish was fairly matt rather than high gloss, and
they have been fine up until now. When the brighter evenings came along,
I began to notice they looked very dull and almost grey.

So tonight I went out, armed with a bucket with Flash in it and a sponge
pot scourer thing. I gave them a good wash but as they dried I realised
that it has made very little difference, apart from removing a bit of
grey-green dust from around the bottom.

They almost look like an old car that needs T-Cut. Is this the case, and
if so, would T-Cut for black cars be off any use?


A further point to this: if you scratch a tiny area with your nail, it
looks like there is a shiny surface underneath. the "scratch" mark stays
there, but if you rub it with your thumb is goes and looks evenly dull
again. Whatever this top layer is, is seems to smudge around in a circle
easily.

This has two implications:

1. This layer may be removeable if it is identifiable, but what is it?


2. If it can't be removed, will it cause a problem for painting over?


Any ideas on these specific points please?

Suzanne


How about complaining to the suppliers of the paint finish?

On Fri, 13 May 2005 18:48:05 +0100, "Suz" wrote:


A further point to this: if you scratch a tiny area with your nail, it
looks like there is a shiny surface underneath. the "scratch" mark stays
there, but if you rub it with your thumb is goes and looks evenly dull
again. Whatever this top layer is, is seems to smudge around in a circle
easily.

This has two implications:

1. This layer may be removeable if it is identifiable, but what is it?


2. If it can't be removed, will it cause a problem for painting over?


Any ideas on these specific points please?

Suzanne

Hi,

Sounds like the paint is chalking due to UV, is it as faded on the
underside of the gate or not?

Maybe a gentle scrub with T-Cut or something harsher like Ajax or Vim
would remove it.

If so a try on somewhere inconspiciosu would be best, also not
ploshing across the corners of the metalwork.

cheers,
Pete.

In article ,=20
says...
Oi you 2!
What about a direct answer to my points rather than a discussion on the=
=20
vagaries of powder coating and associated terms?
See the last post.=20
=20
=20
=20
In my pemultimate post I suggested you try 'T' cut to restore the=20
finish. Regrettably if it has proved prone to this type of dulling I can=20
think of no long term solution othen than to keep using 'T' cut or re-
coat with an air dried finish. In the latter case the only consolation=20
you have is that at least you should be starting from a good base after=20
you have touched up any bare spots with something like Lowes (Sp.?)=20
primer.

If you are uncertain how to carry this out I'm sure someone else will be=20
along soon to quote re-gurgitated screeds of a.n.o.t.h.e.r.s literature.

A quick look at some of these may be useful. All found via a quick=20
google=20

http://www.fertan.co.uk/index.htm

http://www.ucl.ac.uk/SLAIS/andrew-fl...blications.php =91Combating=20
Rust: a short guide=92

http://www.kzrider.com/rust_removal.shtml

--=20
Paul Mc Cann

'All that glitters is not gold, never lose a sense of humour'

replying to Suz, RB13013 wrote:
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.
I have tried various way to clean them but nothing seems to work.
This Morning I gave the gates a scrub with soapy water and then hosed them off
- no good left the black coating dull with grey streaks.
This afternoon I made a Mixture of used sunflower oil and white spirit. 50/50,
poured into a hand spray, sprayed onto the gates and used a paint brush to
coat the nooks n crannies. - Looks a treat.
I last did this about a year ago but using only sunflower oil.
Hope this helps you.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-177985-.htm

posted on May 11, 2005, 5:41 pm
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"RB13013" m wrote in
message ...
replying to Suz, RB13013 wrote:
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.
I have tried various way to clean them but nothing seems to work.
This Morning I gave the gates a scrub with soapy water and then hosed them
off
- no good left the black coating dull with grey streaks.
This afternoon I made a Mixture of used sunflower oil and white spirit.
50/50,
poured into a hand spray, sprayed onto the gates and used a paint brush to
coat the nooks n crannies. - Looks a treat.
I last did this about a year ago but using only sunflower oil.
Hope this helps you.

--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-177985-.htm

In article , briang1
@blueyonder.co.uk says...
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.


I think your time machine has developed a fault, Brian, or
Home Owners Club has because that post is about something
which, according to you, occurred ten years in the future!

Quote "I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015."

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Wed, 22 May 2019 16:43:46 +0100
Terry Casey wrote:

In article , briang1
@blueyonder.co.uk says...
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.


I think your time machine has developed a fault, Brian, or
Home Owners Club has because that post is about something
which, according to you, occurred ten years in the future!

Quote "I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015."

Which was replying to a post made on May 11, 2005

On 22/05/2019 16:43, Terry Casey wrote:
In article , briang1
@blueyonder.co.uk says...
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.


I think your time machine has developed a fault
There is no fault. The OP posted in 2005.

Was not that what the post was saying, at least I commented on that in a
post on that site. I think its finally lost it. Bit like Hal in 2001.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
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"Rob Morley" wrote in message
news:20190601223729.7705c42f@Mars...
On Wed, 22 May 2019 16:43:46 +0100
Terry Casey wrote:

In article , briang1
@blueyonder.co.uk says...
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.


I think your time machine has developed a fault, Brian, or
Home Owners Club has because that post is about something
which, according to you, occurred ten years in the future!

Quote "I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015."

Which was replying to a post made on May 11, 2005

Yes as I say, most odd.

Maybe its the heat?
Brian

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"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
On 22/05/2019 16:43, Terry Casey wrote:
In article , briang1
@blueyonder.co.uk says...
I had powder coated gates installed in Oct 2015.


I think your time machine has developed a fault
There is no fault. The OP posted in 2005.

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 07:48:22 +0100
"Brian Gaff" wrote:

Was not that what the post was saying, at least I commented on that
in a post on that site. I think its finally lost it. Bit like Hal in
2001. Brian

Daisy, Daisy ...