Fixing Aquapanel
 

I know that the normal suggested method of fixing Aquapanel or tile
backer board is to screw it, but has anyone tried fixing it with
plasterboard adhesive?
I'd prefer to glue it if possible because the room is small enough
that using batterns would be an issue...

I don't know what's in the adhesive, but would there be a possible issue
with a plaster/cement reaction?

Lee
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"Lee" wrote in message
...
I know that the normal suggested method of fixing Aquapanel or tile
backer board is to screw it, but has anyone tried fixing it with
plasterboard adhesive?
I'd prefer to glue it if possible because the room is small enough
that using batterns would be an issue...

I don't know what's in the adhesive, but would there be a possible issue
with a plaster/cement reaction?

Lee


No More Nails is also good for this. Are you fixing to the timber studs, or
directly on to plasterbaord? If you're fixing to the surface of
plasterboard, or even plaster itself, then the best way is to drill and
screw the panels on. If you're fixing directly to the timber studs, then
squeezing some No More Nails down the studs and presenting the panels to it
will work. Remember to counter sink the holes so the screw heads are flush
with the surface of the panels, and have good bracing timbers ready to holds
the panels in place while the glue sets.

BigWallop wrote:

Are you fixing to the timber studs, or
directly on to plasterbaord?

Thanks. I should have added that the intention is to try to give a good
flat surface for tiling to a poorly rendered (sand and cement) internal
brick wall.
I suppose I should really get it skimmed, but it would take too long to
dry in the thickess it would need, and it's likely to get splashed so I
didn't fancy plasterboard...

Lee








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Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.

"Lee" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:

Are you fixing to the timber studs, or
directly on to plasterbaord?

Thanks. I should have added that the intention is to try to give a good
flat surface for tiling to a poorly rendered (sand and cement) internal
brick wall.
I suppose I should really get it skimmed, but it would take too long to
dry in the thickess it would need, and it's likely to get splashed so I
didn't fancy plasterboard...

Lee


How thick would the plaster have to be? A layer of 9 mm plasterboard glued
to the bad render, then skimmed over with finish, wouldn't take that long to
dry out enough to tile on top of. It would also give a nice flat surface,
and make the tiling easier to do.

BigWallop wrote:
"Lee" wrote in message
...

Thanks. I should have added that the intention is to try to give a good
flat surface for tiling to a poorly rendered (sand and cement) internal
brick wall.

How thick would the plaster have to be? A layer of 9 mm plasterboard glued
to the bad render, then skimmed over with finish, wouldn't take that long to
dry out enough to tile on top of. It would also give a nice flat surface,
and make the tiling easier to do.


If I knock off the high spots and fill the missing chunks then I could
probably get away with 10mm or so, but the main problem is that the room
cannot be out of use for too long...
Making the tiling easier and looking nice is the main object of course :)

Is tiled plasterboard reasonably water resistant if stuck to a solid
wall? One wall will have a bath/shower against it, so it will get splashed.

Lee
--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.

"Lee" wrote in message
...
I know that the normal suggested method of fixing Aquapanel or tile
backer
board is to screw it, but has anyone tried fixing it with plasterboard
adhesive?
I'd prefer to glue it if possible because the room is small enough that
using batterns would be an issue...

I don't know what's in the adhesive, but would there be a possible issue
with a plaster/cement reaction?

Yeah, I've done that. I was a bit concerned because of the weight of it
but
next morning it was as solid as a rock and hadn't landed on the cat during
the night


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"Lee" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:
"Lee" wrote in message
...

Thanks. I should have added that the intention is to try to give a good
flat surface for tiling to a poorly rendered (sand and cement) internal
brick wall.

How thick would the plaster have to be? A layer of 9 mm plasterboard
glued
to the bad render, then skimmed over with finish, wouldn't take that
long to
dry out enough to tile on top of. It would also give a nice flat
surface,
and make the tiling easier to do.


If I knock off the high spots and fill the missing chunks then I could
probably get away with 10mm or so, but the main problem is that the room
cannot be out of use for too long...
Making the tiling easier and looking nice is the main object of course :)

Is tiled plasterboard reasonably water resistant if stuck to a solid
wall? One wall will have a bath/shower against it, so it will get
splashed.

Lee


Plasterboard is OK, yes, and as long as the bottom edges of the tiles are
fitted with those plastic sealant strips that go under the bottom row of
tiles, then yes, it should be OK for many years.

You should get a good quality grout for a bathroom anyway, and then you will
have no problems at all.

A good method of belt and braces, is to squirt some silicone sealant along
the bottom edge of the plasterboard and the edge of the bath / shower tray.
Then place the plastic sealant strip on top of it while it's still soft.
Then stick your tiles on top of the strip. The rest of the little spaces
can be sealed with the grout and a touch of silicone, if needed, once
everything else is in place.