Different cutter, or change your feed speed or pressure? Make the chips
different size.

I have similar problem with a key cutting machine, that throws brass
slivers. I havn't found out how to change the feed speed or pressure, yet. I
should rig a vacuum cleaner to operate during the cutting.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
news
I suppose others have run into this before-- a month or so ago I
installed a quick change tool post on my 10x22 lathe. It required that
the steel T-nut be machined to fit the lathe, so I milled it off on
three sides to the width and thickness required.

Works great, couldn't be happier (wedge style) and I just picked up a
few extra tool holders.

Problem-- the swarf was all tiny long slivers of steel that seem to
find themselves stuck in my fingers every time I touch anything.
They're very, very thin and sharp, and maybe 1/8" or a bit longer.

How to avoid this? It's very annoying, and the oil I used has made
them stick everywhere, into the T-slots etc.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On Feb 1, 6:52*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Different cutter, or change your feed speed or pressure? Make the chips
different size.

I have similar problem with a key cutting machine, that throws brass
slivers. I havn't found out how to change the feed speed or pressure, yet.. I
should rig a vacuum cleaner to operate during the cutting.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.
Some alloys/tempers of brass are really nasty to work that way. Had
one rod of it that no matter what I did, swarf was little slivers when
i turned it. Nasty stuff to clean up after. Was picking invisible
slivers out of the fingers for several days. Best way was using tape
to do it, just like cactus needles.

Stan

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit with
tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain level) up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stanley Schaefer" wrote in message
...

Some alloys/tempers of brass are really nasty to work that way. Had
one rod of it that no matter what I did, swarf was little slivers when
i turned it. Nasty stuff to clean up after. Was picking invisible
slivers out of the fingers for several days. Best way was using tape
to do it, just like cactus needles.

Stan

On 2/2/2012 3:32 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit with
tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain level) up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Stanley wrote in message
...

Some alloys/tempers of brass are really nasty to work that way. Had
one rod of it that no matter what I did, swarf was little slivers when
i turned it. Nasty stuff to clean up after. Was picking invisible
slivers out of the fingers for several days. Best way was using tape
to do it, just like cactus needles.

Stan



Razor blades work good, so do the machinist surfacing stones (not sure
of the proper terminology). The ones that have the rough and fine side,
rub your finger around in circles on it and it tends to grab those nasty
splinters right out.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit
with tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain
level) up.
Yup, for deep ones with nothing sticking out, a brand new X-acto blade
can be used to pick at the dead skin layer and expose the sliver.
Then, using the sharp side of the blade, you can catch the surface roughness
of the sliver and drag it right out. This only works with an absolutely
new blade, those things are insanely sharp, and the edge of the blade will
catch on the slightest surface roughness.

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)

Jon

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. ...

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)
Jon

It is in my shop, but an Optivisor headband magnifier is more convenient.

Iodine may darken the sliver quickly. It stains wood splinters too.

jsw

On Fri, 3 Feb 2012 19:29:33 -0500, the renowned "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Elson" wrote in message
m...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. ...

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)
Jon

It is in my shop, but an Optivisor headband magnifier is more convenient.

A Leica bino scope makes short work of the ones in fingers and palms,
but the ones that get into a foot are not so easy. Maybe a cheapie USB
microscope would help.

Iodine may darken the sliver quickly. It stains wood splinters too.

jsw


With the microscope I found a couple short ones embedded in thick skin
that had rusted.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 17:43:15 -0600, Jon Elson wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit
with tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain
level) up.
Yup, for deep ones with nothing sticking out, a brand new X-acto blade
can be used to pick at the dead skin layer and expose the sliver.
Then, using the sharp side of the blade, you can catch the surface roughness
of the sliver and drag it right out. This only works with an absolutely
new blade, those things are insanely sharp, and the edge of the blade will
catch on the slightest surface roughness.

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)

Jon

Its not? Ive got 2 of them.

Odd that......scratching head....


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2/3/2012 6:18 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 17:43:15 -0600, Jon wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit
with tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain
level) up.
Yup, for deep ones with nothing sticking out, a brand new X-acto blade
can be used to pick at the dead skin layer and expose the sliver.
Then, using the sharp side of the blade, you can catch the surface roughness
of the sliver and drag it right out. This only works with an absolutely
new blade, those things are insanely sharp, and the edge of the blade will
catch on the slightest surface roughness.

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)

Jon

Its not? Ive got 2 of them.

Odd that......scratching head....

Is there /any/ geeky tool you don't have, McGummer?

On 2012-02-03, Jon Elson wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually, for me the sliver turns dark, and then I can see it. Dig a bit
with tip of exacto knife, or similar. Brings the splinter (and my pain
level) up.
Yup, for deep ones with nothing sticking out, a brand new X-acto blade
can be used to pick at the dead skin layer and expose the sliver.
Then, using the sharp side of the blade, you can catch the surface roughness
of the sliver and drag it right out. This only works with an absolutely
new blade, those things are insanely sharp, and the edge of the blade will
catch on the slightest surface roughness.

Yes, they work nicely, as do new single-edged razor blades, if
you can still find them. :-)

I've used this trick many times, it beats having to dig the whole damn
splinter out. it works a lot better under a stereo zoom microscope
(Not typical gear in the average home shop, I know.)

It's *not*? My home shop must not be typical, then. :-) A nice
old AO stereozoom microscope on a boom stand.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

Yes, they work nicely, as do new single-edged razor blades, if
you can still find them. :-)


Harbor Freight puts a box of 100 on sale for $2.99 fairly often. I
have about three boxes, right now.



--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.