I bought a few tool holders to fit the Phase II post last Thursday. They showed up today.

Item Number: 15003
Item Name: Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder BXA
Price Each: $19.00
Quantity: 1
This Total: $19.00

Item Number: 15002
Item Name: Boring, Turning and Facing Tool Holder BXA
Price Each: $10.00
Quantity: 2
This Total: $20.00

Item Number: 15001
Item Name: Turning and Facing Tool Holder BXA
Price Each: $9.00
Quantity: 5
This Total: $45.00

Shipping $15.00

Every one of them fit and the locking angle on the tool post clamping handle was the same
visually. I bought some for AXA a while back and I had one that the handle rotated 20
extra degrees on.

I will, of course, replace the set screws. Been there before.


Wes

On 2010-07-13, Wes wrote:
I bought a few tool holders to fit the Phase II post last Thursday. They showed up today.

Item Number: 15003
Item Name: Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder BXA
Price Each: $19.00
Quantity: 1
This Total: $19.00

Item Number: 15002
Item Name: Boring, Turning and Facing Tool Holder BXA
Price Each: $10.00
Quantity: 2
This Total: $20.00

Item Number: 15001
Item Name: Turning and Facing Tool Holder BXA
Price Each: $9.00
Quantity: 5
This Total: $45.00

Shipping $15.00

Every one of them fit and the locking angle on the tool post clamping handle was the same
visually. I bought some for AXA a while back and I had one that the handle rotated 20
extra degrees on.

Pretty good for the price.

I might have gotten a couple more of the 15002 "Boring, Turning
and Facing" holders, perhaps at the expense of one of the "Turning and
Facing" holders, as the former can normally also be used as the latter.
Aside from small boring bars, I also sometimes use round shanked
internal threading tools which benefit from the 'V'-bottom of the slot.

BTW I believe that you asked about gaps between the wedge and the
dovetail on the Phase-II toolposts. I was down in the shop and
checked and I find very little gap -- even when I force it open by
thumb.

Of course, my Phase-II BXA was bought perhaps ten years ago now,
so the quality may have changed.

I will, of course, replace the set screws. Been there before.

Good.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

BTW I believe that you asked about gaps between the wedge and the
dovetail on the Phase-II toolposts. I was down in the shop and
checked and I find very little gap -- even when I force it open by
thumb.

Of course, my Phase-II BXA was bought perhaps ten years ago now,
so the quality may have changed.

I meant to take a picture. Today was the first time I used the lathe since I put the new
post on. Uncle wanted a .459x dia x 1 1/2" long punch for his luber sizer die. The
current one isn't fitted very closely and allows lube to get under bullet base.

The first one I turned was .003" off on diameter. The second one I snuck up on was right
but at the same graduation on the cross slide as the first try. Something feels notchy in
the cross, I'm going to have to take it a part. I should look into this before summer is
over. Come winter, I'll be wanting to play with my metalworking tools on a daily basis,
it sure beats looking at snow.

I'll try for a picture this weekend.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-07-30, Wes wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

BTW I believe that you asked about gaps between the wedge and the
dovetail on the Phase-II toolposts. I was down in the shop and
checked and I find very little gap -- even when I force it open by
thumb.

Of course, my Phase-II BXA was bought perhaps ten years ago now,
so the quality may have changed.

I meant to take a picture. Today was the first time I used the lathe since I put the new
post on. Uncle wanted a .459x dia x 1 1/2" long punch for his luber sizer die. The
current one isn't fitted very closely and allows lube to get under bullet base.

Well ... once the lever is moved to the locked position, the gap
is closed by the forces of the dovetail and the screw.

The first one I turned was .003" off on diameter. The second one I snuck up on was right
but at the same graduation on the cross slide as the first try.

Depending on the grind (or shape) of the cutting tool, a heavier
cut can be self fed taking up some of the backlash which exists in all
normal leadscrews -- plus give in the lathe itself depending on
rigidity. So getting a different dimension by sneaking up is not that
unusual.

Something feels notchy in
the cross, I'm going to have to take it a part.

How loose are the gibs?

And did chips get into the leadscrew and nut?

And what is the condition of the cross-feed bearing?

I know that my 12x24" Clausing had a badly worn cross-slide
leadscrew and nut -- resulting in 0.070" backlash out of 0.100"/turn
calibration. :-)

I should look into this before summer is
over. Come winter, I'll be wanting to play with my metalworking tools on a daily basis,
it sure beats looking at snow.

I can certainly understand spending less time in the shop in
mid-summer. it is *hot* there (no AC) compared to the rest of the
house. Only a pedestal fan makes it semi-tolerable. (I still was able
to make a pair of specialized punches, a threaded mounting for them, a
pair of 3/8-32 nuts to lock them, and to heat treat them (which was
mostly done sitting outside the garage/shop door and watching the timer
and the temperature readout) prior to making an anvil plate with guide
pins and then punching out several hundred donuts of 1/16" thick hard
felt for an unrelated project. :-) At least the heat treating oven is
just inside the garage style door on a shelf so I did not have to
coexist with it.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-07-30, Wes wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

BTW I believe that you asked about gaps between the wedge and the
dovetail on the Phase-II toolposts. I was down in the shop and
checked and I find very little gap -- even when I force it open by
thumb.

Of course, my Phase-II BXA was bought perhaps ten years ago now,
so the quality may have changed.

I meant to take a picture. Today was the first time I used the lathe since I put the new
post on. Uncle wanted a .459x dia x 1 1/2" long punch for his luber sizer die. The
current one isn't fitted very closely and allows lube to get under bullet base.

Well ... once the lever is moved to the locked position, the gap
is closed by the forces of the dovetail and the screw.

Here is a picture finally. Don't let where it is sitting on the compound bother you. I
had to part something and the only parting blades I have fit the AXA post that is just out
of view.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/usen...olpost_Gap.jpg


The first one I turned was .003" off on diameter. The second one I snuck up on was right
but at the same graduation on the cross slide as the first try.

Depending on the grind (or shape) of the cutting tool, a heavier
cut can be self fed taking up some of the backlash which exists in all
normal leadscrews -- plus give in the lathe itself depending on
rigidity. So getting a different dimension by sneaking up is not that
unusual.

You can see the tool in the picture. I had just touched it up on my HF tool grinder on a
diamond wheel before using it. It was sharp with relief, something it wasn't when I
recieved it.

Something feels notchy in
the cross, I'm going to have to take it a part.

How loose are the gibs?

Snug but not too snug.

And did chips get into the leadscrew and nut?

I don't think so.

And what is the condition of the cross-feed bearing?

I know that my 12x24" Clausing had a badly worn cross-slide
leadscrew and nut -- resulting in 0.070" backlash out of 0.100"/turn
calibration. :-)

I should look into this before summer is
over. Come winter, I'll be wanting to play with my metalworking tools on a daily basis,
it sure beats looking at snow.

I didn't get around to looking at it today. First rainy day on days off I'll go back at
it. Might be a few weeks for days off though. The economy up here is cratered but my
facility is doing fine.

I can certainly understand spending less time in the shop in
mid-summer. it is *hot* there (no AC) compared to the rest of the
house. Only a pedestal fan makes it semi-tolerable. (I still was able
to make a pair of specialized punches, a threaded mounting for them, a
pair of 3/8-32 nuts to lock them, and to heat treat them (which was
mostly done sitting outside the garage/shop door and watching the timer
and the temperature readout) prior to making an anvil plate with guide
pins and then punching out several hundred donuts of 1/16" thick hard
felt for an unrelated project. :-) At least the heat treating oven is
just inside the garage style door on a shelf so I did not have to
coexist with it.

I have AC in the machine room but it is hard to stay inside when it isn't winter outside.
I did a bit of garage cleaning but once it warmed up out there, I lost interest. It is
hard tossing things out but I'm getting better.

Hard felt. Is that shooting related?

Enjoy,
DoN.

Always,

Wes

--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-08-01, Wes wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-07-30, Wes wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

BTW I believe that you asked about gaps between the wedge and the
dovetail on the Phase-II toolposts. I was down in the shop and
checked and I find very little gap -- even when I force it open by
thumb.

Of course, my Phase-II BXA was bought perhaps ten years ago now,
so the quality may have changed.

I meant to take a picture. Today was the first time I used the lathe since I put the new
post on. Uncle wanted a .459x dia x 1 1/2" long punch for his luber sizer die. The
current one isn't fitted very closely and allows lube to get under bullet base.

Well ... once the lever is moved to the locked position, the gap
is closed by the forces of the dovetail and the screw.

Here is a picture finally. Don't let where it is sitting on the compound bother you. I
had to part something and the only parting blades I have fit the AXA post that is just out
of view.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/usen...olpost_Gap.jpg

O.K. The gap is not where I thought you were talking about.

However -- my Phase-II BXA size has less of a gap, though there
is some when unlocked.

When it is locked on a tool holder the gap closes -- on the
station which has the tool holder -- though the other is still lose, of
course.

I would consider it not something to worry about -- but if you
really care, glue some felt wipers across the top -- but they still
won't do much when the lever is far to the locked position, because the
wedge will be well below the top level. You could put the felt wiper on
the top of the wedge instead -- but that will not do much when the lever
is in the fully unlocked position.

Or -- you might make an aluminum dummy tool holder to go on the
empty station to hold the gap closed if this really bothers you. Make
the dovetail just a little loose, so the other wedge will lock up firmly
on the station actually in use. Or -- make it even looser and glue some
inner tube rubber on one side so the second wedge is held with the gap
closed.

Personally -- I think this is more trouble than it is worth.


The first one I turned was .003" off on diameter. The second one I snuck up on was right
but at the same graduation on the cross slide as the first try.

Depending on the grind (or shape) of the cutting tool, a heavier
cut can be self fed taking up some of the backlash which exists in all
normal leadscrews -- plus give in the lathe itself depending on
rigidity. So getting a different dimension by sneaking up is not that
unusual.

You can see the tool in the picture. I had just touched it up on my HF tool grinder on a
diamond wheel before using it. It was sharp with relief, something it wasn't when I
recieved it.

O.K. A brazed carbide tool, not a HSS one. This means that it
has no rake. Were both the off diameter and the correct diameter after
the sharpening? At least there should have been no self-feed. But the
tool might have been skating on the workpiece surface with really
shallow cuts. And a properly sharpened HSS tool with proper rake might
have cut closer to diameter.

[ ... ]

I know that my 12x24" Clausing had a badly worn cross-slide
leadscrew and nut -- resulting in 0.070" backlash out of 0.100"/turn
calibration. :-)

I should look into this before summer is
over. Come winter, I'll be wanting to play with my metalworking tools on a daily basis,
it sure beats looking at snow.

I didn't get around to looking at it today. First rainy day on days off I'll go back at
it. Might be a few weeks for days off though. The economy up here is cratered but my
facility is doing fine.

O.K. The backlash was easy to check without any measuring
instruments. Just turn the cross-feed counter-clockwise until you feel
resistance, zero the dial, then turn it clockwise until you again feel
resistance and read the backlash from the dial. You will never get zero
backlash on an Acme threaded leadscrew and nut -- but with ball screws
you could come very close. however, ballscrews are a bad idea on a
manual tool -- they need stepper or servo motors to hold the leadscrew
from rotation induced by cutting forces.

I can certainly understand spending less time in the shop in
mid-summer. it is *hot* there (no AC) compared to the rest of the
house. Only a pedestal fan makes it semi-tolerable. (I still was able
to make a pair of specialized punches, a threaded mounting for them, a
pair of 3/8-32 nuts to lock them, and to heat treat them (which was
mostly done sitting outside the garage/shop door and watching the timer
and the temperature readout) prior to making an anvil plate with guide
pins and then punching out several hundred donuts of 1/16" thick hard
felt for an unrelated project. :-) At least the heat treating oven is
just inside the garage style door on a shelf so I did not have to
coexist with it.

I have AC in the machine room but it is hard to stay inside when it isn't winter outside.

:-)

As someone who has lifelong allergies, I find staying indoors
less of a hardship. :-) Add the typical summer heat and humidity and I
like summer indoors.

I did a bit of garage cleaning but once it warmed up out there, I lost interest. It is
hard tossing things out but I'm getting better.

Understood.

Hard felt. Is that shooting related?

Actually -- no. The felt was made for either polishing (with
jeweler's rouge or the like) or for use in way wipers on the lathe
carriage. (Or on your toolpost if you so desire).

However -- my use in this case is as noise prevention cushions
under the bottom of English system concertina buttons.

The button body is 3/16" diameter (or a metric value close to
that, like perhaps 5mm), and it has a concentric projection about 1/16"
diameter and about 6mm long which goes into a guide hole in the platform
on which it is mounted. (The upper end is guided by a velvet bushing,
and the travel is limited by a lever through a transverse hole which
opens the valve for the selected reed.) Anyway -- the donut pads are
1/16" thick hard felt with a 1/16" hole in the center, and a 3/16"
diameter around that. I made up two punches to produce those two
diameters, with the smaller one punching first, then that hole is put
onto a guide pin halfway between the small punch and the large one twice
the center-to-center spacing (since I could not space the two punches
close enough together to make it a reasonable spacing for the two holes
directly adjacent). After the second hole is punched, the ribbon of
felt (1/2" wide) is moved so the first hole is on a pin centered in the
diameter of the larger punch, and the second hole is now on the first
pin, and the punch again cycled. At this point, it punches yet another
small hole, and punches the larger diameters, swallowing the completed
donut in the punch tube. From this point each cycle makes another part,
and they accumulate in the large punch body. At the end of a 12" strip
of felt, I have the body nearly full of parts, (33 of them typically)
and use a small Allen key to hook the topmost ones and tilt the stack so
I can transfer them to a bottle. This gets about 2/3 of the parts, and
then a larger Allen key is used to push the remaining parts out the
bottom.

A concertina typically takes at least 48 of these (assuming you
are doing a full rebuild) -- and some take 64 or even as many as 80.

Anyway -- it does not take log to make an adequate supply to
fully rebuild multiple instruments.

Instruments of a certain age have molded plastic bodies to the
buttons, with a deep-drawn nickel-silver cap pressed over them for the
player to press on. (Older ones of the same brand used turned wood
bodies.) These plastic bodies have gotten very brittle, and because the
button body has a transverse hole for the lever, with a deep countersink
from each size to allow the lever to change its angle as the button is
depressed. (There is also a velvet sleeve around the lever inside the
transverse hole.) Anyway -- with the brittle plastic, a slight bump on
the side of the button cap will frequently break the button in half --
so I have been machining new bodies from Delrin and press-fitting them
into the deep drawn button caps.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---