I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

Cut enough of the filter can off to expose the nut or threaded area of the
filter. Then try two things.

Using a hammer and chisel at an angle to spin the nut off,

or chisel the nut to expand it's diameter by chiseling directly toward the
center line of the nut in 5 or 6 places, and revert to step one.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

1. what tim said - usually a cold chisel on the rim of the filter where it
is rolled together will spin it off

2. on my 93, there is an o-rin seal on these lines at the radiator end, I
have never pulled the other end

On Jul 25, 11:37*pm, "Bill Noble" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the *block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

1. what tim said - usually a cold chisel on the rim of the filter where it
is rolled together will spin it off

2. on my 93, there is an o-rin seal on these lines at the radiator end, I
have never pulled the other end

I have learned that some models have a different filter housing where
the filter sits vertically instead of horizontally. These do not use
an oil cooler. Will there be any issues if I convert to this and not
use an oil cooler?

On 2009-07-26, stryped wrote:
On Jul 25, 11:37*pm, "Bill Noble" wrote:

[ ... ]

I have learned that some models have a different filter housing where
the filter sits vertically instead of horizontally. These do not use
an oil cooler. Will there be any issues if I convert to this and not
use an oil cooler?

Based on my experience years ago -- converting an MGA's filter
mounting point to one which turned the filter vertically (much easier to
change the filter -- I no longer had to jack the engine up in the motor
mounts to clear the frame), and keeping the oil cooler, I had both flex
oil lines to the oil cooler fail shortly after the conversion -- because
the lines had been cooked into shape over the years and had become
rather brittle.

If you totally remove all the existing oil lines going to the
cooler and don't need to re-route any other flexible lines, you might
get away with it -- but I would suggest replacing the oil lines with new
and keeping the cooler so the engine does not get as hot -- particularly
in the oil pan.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Jul 25, 11:37 pm, "Bill Noble" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

1. what tim said - usually a cold chisel on the rim of the filter where it
is rolled together will spin it off

2. on my 93, there is an o-rin seal on these lines at the radiator end, I
have never pulled the other end

I have learned that some models have a different filter housing where
the filter sits vertically instead of horizontally. These do not use
an oil cooler. Will there be any issues if I convert to this and not
use an oil cooler?



----

The oil cooler is there to cool the oil - if you don't anticipate
situations where the oil will require the additional cooling - for example
you won't be towing anything or operating in high temperatures, then you are
probably OK - you are going from "heavy duty" to "light duty" - personally,
I wouldn't but it's your car

I once had a Chev O/F so tight, after cutting the can off, I had to
use a cutting torch to cut the webs between the holes in the base
plate to remove it. I planned a slow death for whoever installed it,
if I ever found him.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

On Sat, 25 Jul 2009 23:01:55 -0500, "Tim" wrote:


"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have a 96 chevy 350 1500 4x4. The oil filter is almost impossible to
get to. To make a long story short. the filter is a crumpled up mess.
I took the housing that fiton on the block off and still cant get the
reminents of the folter off. I have tried using a screwdriver and
hammer to turn the old filter, did not work. Any ideas?

Also, this truck has two wcrew in lines to this housing that go to a
factory oil cooler. Anyone know if these lines have seals in them? I
appreciate your help!

Cut enough of the filter can off to expose the nut or threaded area of the
filter. Then try two things.

Using a hammer and chisel at an angle to spin the nut off,

or chisel the nut to expand it's diameter by chiseling directly toward the
center line of the nut in 5 or 6 places, and revert to step one.



--------------------------------------------------------------
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If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
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"JR North" wrote in message
...
I once had a Chev O/F so tight, after cutting the can off, I had to
use a cutting torch to cut the webs between the holes in the base
plate to remove it. I planned a slow death for whoever installed it,
if I ever found him.

Fortunately the worst I have encountered could be removed by driving a punch
through them, and using it for a tee handle.

I always use the old standard of wetting the seal with oil, spinning down
until the seal contacts, and adding 1/3 of a turn. I have never had one
leak, and have always been able to remove them by hand. This info used to be
printed on some filters.

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 01:17:23 -0500, "Tim" wrote:


"JR North" wrote in message
.. .
I once had a Chev O/F so tight, after cutting the can off, I had to
use a cutting torch to cut the webs between the holes in the base
plate to remove it. I planned a slow death for whoever installed it,
if I ever found him.

Fortunately the worst I have encountered could be removed by driving a punch
through them, and using it for a tee handle.

I always use the old standard of wetting the seal with oil, spinning down
until the seal contacts, and adding 1/3 of a turn. I have never had one
leak, and have always been able to remove them by hand. This info used to be
printed on some filters.

You have the adapter off? Chuck it into a good vise, tear the can off
and arc-weld a solid steel bar to the base-plate of the filter. The
heat will release the gasket as well as any seizure to the center-post
thread - the bar will give you leverage to remove it.