Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week. We went and got $800 worth of 6063
rectangular extrusion from the metal yard, and I'm having an
incredibly tough time TIG welding this stuff.
I don't have a lot of material to spare while fooling around,
either, we bought them out of an odd size, 1 x 1 7/8 x 1/8" wall.
(That's 1 x 1.875" outside dimension.)

I just got in some 3/32 Zirconiated tungstens, a gas lens set for that
size, and some 3/64" 5356 MIG wire for filler. I got a pretty good
fit-up of the edges after a whole bunch of fooling around with my 4x6
hor-vert bandsaw. I tried to weld this with without grinding a vee to
fill, maybe that is part of the problem, although my TIG book suggests
that is possible up to 1/8". I have a Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300 that
as far as I know is working perfectly. I have a Weld-Craft
water-cooled torch with a Miller cooler. I know that MIG wire is
not the perfect thing for TIG, but I'm not even sure I need filler wire.

Does anyone have any advice on what to do, common newbie pitfalls,
etc? Obviously I can't support the back of the weld inside the tube. I
think preheat is going to be needed, I have a Bernzomatic propane torch
and an Oxy-Propylene set (essentially generic Oxy-MAPP) but have no
idea how much pre-heat to use. I did try welding a couple pieces
of tiny scrap, and that went a LITTLE better, I did actually get fusion
along part of the seam. That sort of supports the idea it needs
preheat. I KNOW I'm in way over my head, here.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:
Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week. We went and got $800 worth of 6063
rectangular extrusion from the metal yard, and I'm having an
incredibly tough time TIG welding this stuff.

When the pro's get here they are gonna want to know, among
other things:

1) How many amps are you using? Aluminum requires lots of amps.
(You should have 150 amps available, minimum).
2) AC? DC? Polarity? Aluminum likes AC for cleaning and penetration.
3) What techniques are you using to remove any anodize,
surface oxidation and gunge? TIG needs clean, clean, clean
for the workpiece, filler and tungsten.
4) What problems are you seeing? Cracks? Lack of fusion? Burn through?
5) Equipment -- do you have a color filter to allow you to
see the puddle?
6) Are you welding in position or out of position?
7) Straight argon for shielding gas, right? What flowrate?
8) You are regulating current using a foot pedal, yes?

Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?

--Winston

Winston wrote:


1) How many amps are you using? Aluminum requires lots of amps.
(You should have 150 amps available, minimum).
Yup, that's about where I set the dial.
2) AC? DC? Polarity? Aluminum likes AC for cleaning and
penetration. 3) What techniques are you using to remove any
anodize,
AC, and I've tried a variety of wave balance settings.
surface oxidation and gunge? TIG needs clean, clean, clean for
the workpiece, filler and tungsten.
The metal is quite clean, but I didn't use solvents on it. I did
brush with a stainless wire brush I use only for aluminum. I
haven't been using much filler.
4) What problems are you seeing? Cracks? Lack of fusion? Burn
through?
Much lack of fusion, the sides of the joint pull away (melt back)
leaving a gap.
5) Equipment -- do you have a color filter to allow you to see
the puddle?
I have an auto-dark lens with variable darkness, and I can see the
puddle pretty well.
6) Are you welding in position or out of position?
Not clear what you mean, here. I have the seam laying flat
horizontally. Due to the piece being 12 feet long, there are some
limits, but I could set this up so the surfaces to be welded are
vertical.
7) Straight argon for shielding gas, right? What flowrate?
Straight Argon, and I've tried several settings. Usually I can get
good welds at 5 CFH, but I have turned it up to 10 with no change.
I am using a gas lens in the torch.
8) You are regulating current using a foot pedal, yes?

Yes.
Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?
Yes, but not recently. Maybe I should reread it.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:

(...)

You don't really see a weld 'pool' at all?
I was cruising the web just now and noticed that the accepted
practise is to add ~5 to 7 percent filler to join 6063 in order
to prevent cracking. If there is no pool to dip your filler
into, that is going to be a big show stopper.

We have now exceeded the limit of my tiny knowledge on the
subject so I think you should speak with those that really do know.

Your best bet is to subscribe to sci.engr.joining.welding and ask
the experts. I see that Ernie Leimkuhler was answering questions
in that newsgroup as little as 4 hours ago. Ernie is who God asks.

You might want to compose your question so that the experts
don't have to work unnecessarily.

Were I you, I would repeat the question you asked here but I would
add the details that you mentioned just now, plus any details you
can add that seem useful. Use of High Frequency and Pre-flow and
post-flow settings for example:


"I'm attempting to TIG weld some 12' long box tube 6063
1 x 1-7/8 x 1/8" wall (1 x 1.875" outside dimension) using 3/64"
dia 5356 Mig wire filler.

Just as I begin to weld, I see the edges of the joint pull away,
forming a gap. I expected them to form a pool but they don't.
What could be the issue here?

Tungsten: 3/32 Zirconiated
Gas Lens: Yes. 5 CFH straight Argon. Tried 10 CFH with no change
Filler: 3/64" 5356 MIG wire
Prep: Stainless Steel brush used only for aluminum,
No solvents, No Vee prep.
Welder: Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300 with foot pedal
Torch: Weld-Craft water cooled with Miller cooler
Position: Flat on the bench, horizontally
Polarity: AC Squarewave. Tried different balance settings.
Helmet: Autodark lens but no Anti Sodium flare lens
High Freq: [You do have that turned on, right?]"


Best of luck and please keep us posted.


--Winston

Jon Anderson wrote:

Jon Elson wrote:

I wrote that as a suggested question format for Jon, Jon.
(I don't wanna put words in people's mouths, all evidence to the
contrary notwithstanding.)

Just as I begin to weld, I see the edges of the joint pull away,
forming a gap. I expected them to form a pool but they don't.
What could be the issue here?


It's been my experience that aluminum often will do this. I'm more of a
'just do what works' type and less of a follow the book welder, what
I've always done is just stab the filler rod right smack in the middle
of the two. Once you have the two sides joined in a common puddle,
you're on your way. On thinner materials, I sometimes melt off a small
blob of rod right on the joint, and melt it into the material as I bring
the heat up.

Jon

Yeah, I do stuff that "just works" and isn't printed anywhere, too.
It's been many years since I've welded aluminum and had forgotten that
characteristic.


--Winston

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 13:18:38 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week. We went and got $800 worth of 6063
rectangular extrusion from the metal yard, and I'm having an
incredibly tough time TIG welding this stuff.
I don't have a lot of material to spare while fooling around,
either, we bought them out of an odd size, 1 x 1 7/8 x 1/8" wall.
(That's 1 x 1.875" outside dimension.)

I just got in some 3/32 Zirconiated tungstens, a gas lens set for that
size, and some 3/64" 5356 MIG wire for filler. I got a pretty good
fit-up of the edges after a whole bunch of fooling around with my 4x6
hor-vert bandsaw. I tried to weld this with without grinding a vee to
fill, maybe that is part of the problem, although my TIG book suggests
that is possible up to 1/8". I have a Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300 that
as far as I know is working perfectly. I have a Weld-Craft
water-cooled torch with a Miller cooler. I know that MIG wire is
not the perfect thing for TIG, but I'm not even sure I need filler wire.

Does anyone have any advice on what to do, common newbie pitfalls,
etc? Obviously I can't support the back of the weld inside the tube. I
think preheat is going to be needed, I have a Bernzomatic propane torch
and an Oxy-Propylene set (essentially generic Oxy-MAPP) but have no
idea how much pre-heat to use. I did try welding a couple pieces
of tiny scrap, and that went a LITTLE better, I did actually get fusion
along part of the seam. That sort of supports the idea it needs
preheat. I KNOW I'm in way over my head, here.

Thanks,

Jon

1/8" wall 6063 should be easy peasy.

Your kit sounds quite sufficient. You should not need any preheat.
Turning up the gas a bit to 20 cfh or so might help. If it doesn't you
can always back off. You do need to be able to establish and control
a puddle. Clean metal is essential.

With zirconiated tungsten (good choice), grind them sharp. They'll
self-form at your current level. If/when you dunk the tung: break it
off, regrind it and start over. Contaminated tungsten doesn't work
well.

You do have your HF on continuous and the welder set to AC, right?

Once you get a puddle going, you might try 1/16" 4043 rod. It might
wet a bit better for you.

Jon Elson wrote:

Just as I begin to weld, I see the edges of the joint pull away,
forming a gap. I expected them to form a pool but they don't.
What could be the issue here?

It's been my experience that aluminum often will do this.
I'm more of a 'just do what works' type and less of a follow
the book welder, what I've always done is just stab the
filler rod right smack in the middle of the two. Once you
have the two sides joined in a common puddle, you're on your
way. On thinner materials, I sometimes melt off a small blob
of rod right on the joint, and melt it into the material as
I bring the heat up.

Jon

Winston wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week. We went and got $800 worth of 6063
rectangular extrusion from the metal yard, and I'm having an
incredibly tough time TIG welding this stuff.

When the pro's get here they are gonna want to know, among
other things:

1) How many amps are you using? Aluminum requires lots of amps.
(You should have 150 amps available, minimum).
2) AC? DC? Polarity? Aluminum likes AC for cleaning and penetration.
3) What techniques are you using to remove any anodize,
surface oxidation and gunge? TIG needs clean, clean, clean
for the workpiece, filler and tungsten.
4) What problems are you seeing? Cracks? Lack of fusion? Burn through?
5) Equipment -- do you have a color filter to allow you to
see the puddle?
6) Are you welding in position or out of position?
7) Straight argon for shielding gas, right? What flowrate?
8) You are regulating current using a foot pedal, yes?

Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?

--Winston

Haven't seen any postings by Ernie lately---where can I get a copy of
the FAQ ?? Jerry

On Oct 12, 10:44*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
Winston wrote:

1) How many amps are you using? *Aluminum requires lots of amps.
(You should have 150 amps available, minimum).

Yup, that's about where I set the dial. 2) AC? DC? Polarity? *Aluminum likes AC for cleaning and
penetration. 3) What techniques are you using to remove any
anodize,

AC, and I've tried a variety of wave balance settings. surface oxidation and gunge? *TIG needs clean, clean, clean for
the workpiece, filler and tungsten.

The metal is quite clean, but I didn't use solvents on it. *I did
brush with a stainless wire brush I use only for aluminum. *I
haven't been using much filler. 4) What problems are you seeing? Cracks? Lack of fusion? Burn
through?

Much lack of fusion, the sides of the joint pull away (melt back)
leaving a gap. 5) Equipment *-- do you have a color filter to allow you to see
the puddle?

I have an auto-dark lens with variable darkness, and I can see the
puddle pretty well. 6) Are you welding in position or out of position?

Not clear what you mean, here. *I have the seam laying flat
horizontally. *Due to the piece being 12 feet long, there are some
limits, but I could set this up so the surfaces to be welded are
vertical. 7) Straight argon for shielding gas, right? *What flowrate?

Straight Argon, and I've tried several settings. *Usually I can get
good welds at 5 CFH, but I have turned it up to 10 with no change.
I am using a gas lens in the torch. 8) You are regulating current using a foot pedal, yes?

Yes.
Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?

Yes, but not recently. *Maybe I should reread it.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon,
Don’t know if this will help you, but maybe something here will strike
the right chord:

Describes common problems in aluminum TIG welding:
http://www.artsautomotive.com/HowToWeldAluminum.htm
Preparing aluminum before welding:
http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/solutio...or-Welding.cfm
From CIGWELD. More for MIG welding aluminum, but discusses moisture
problems:
http://www.burnback.com.au/helppdf/alumin.pdf

I’ve read that it’s better to use solvents/cleaners before wire
brushing or sanding to prevent driving in surface contamination. Have
you tried sanding disks or flap disks? Some people prefer these to
wire brushes. I suspect that a cleaner surface may allow you to get
your puddle wet sooner and avoid melting back the metal and use lower
amperage. Have you had any success with tack welds or just running
beads on the material?

On Oct 13, 9:10*am, Jerry Wass wrote:
Winston wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week. *We went and got $800 worth of 6063
rectangular extrusion from the metal yard, and I'm having an
incredibly tough time TIG welding this stuff.

When the pro's get here they are gonna want to know, among
other things:

1) How many amps are you using? *Aluminum requires lots of amps.
* *(You should have 150 amps available, minimum).
2) AC? DC? Polarity? *Aluminum likes AC for cleaning and penetration.
3) What techniques are you using to remove any anodize,
* *surface oxidation and gunge? *TIG needs clean, clean, clean
* *for the workpiece, filler and tungsten.
4) What problems are you seeing? Cracks? Lack of fusion? Burn through?
5) Equipment *-- do you have a color filter to allow you to
* *see the puddle?
6) Are you welding in position or out of position?
7) Straight argon for shielding gas, right? *What flowrate?
8) You are regulating current using a foot pedal, yes?

Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?

--Winston

Haven't seen any postings by Ernie lately---where can I get a copy of
the FAQ ?? *Jerry- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jerry,
I don’t know if a FAQ actually exists. At one time, Mike Graham was
going to write one for sci.engr.joining.welding, (SEJW) but it was a
big undertaking and I believe that he lost interest in the group.

Ernie often hangs out at SEJW and you can learn a lot by reading the
archives:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.e...topics?lnk=srg
and he
http://www.allexperts.com/ep/3487-76...Leimkuhler.htm
Here’s his website with metalworking links: http://www.stagesmith.com/
Previous post on welding 6063: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Welding-3...g-aluminum.htm

Jerry Wass wrote:
Winston wrote:

Jon Elson wrote:

Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames for panels to
protect stained glass windows when a church sanctuary is used for a
gym during the school week.

(...)

Have you reviewed Ernie Leimkuhler's excellent TIG FAQ?

--Winston


Haven't seen any postings by Ernie lately---where can I get a copy of
the FAQ ?? Jerry

I looked all over for it just now and wasn't successful.
That's funny because Ernie used to paste a copy as a
useful guide in many of his responses.

As Denis G mentioned, Ernie is available to answer specific questions:
http://www.allexperts.com/ep/3487-76...Leimkuhler.htm

--Winston

Jon Elson wrote:
snip

I just got in some 3/32 Zirconiated tungstens, a gas lens set for that
size, and some 3/64" 5356 MIG wire for filler. I got a pretty good
fit-up of the edges after a whole bunch of fooling around with my 4x6
hor-vert bandsaw. I tried to weld this with without grinding a vee to
fill, maybe that is part of the problem, although my TIG book suggests
that is possible up to 1/8". I have a Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300 that
as far as I know is working perfectly. I have a Weld-Craft
water-cooled torch with a Miller cooler. I know that MIG wire is
not the perfect thing for TIG, but I'm not even sure I need filler wire.

Hi Jon

3/64" is pretty small for filler at that gauge. Do you find the end
of the filler rod dropping off before you have a puddle? For me, I would
be using 3/32" lanthanated, 3/32" or 1/8" filler. As someone else
mentioned, 4043 would wet a bit better. I'd probably set the current at
about 150A (assuming you have a pedal), and the argon to at least 15
CFH. You will need filler wire, as most aluminum is 'hot short' and will
likely crack if no filler is added to the weld.

Clean the weld zone with a wire brush (stainless of course) or
Scotchbright or similar product. Clean with acetone. Do the same thing
with your filler rod. Setup your parts, and make sure they're well
grounded. Start the arc at about 1/2 pedal and work it back and forth
over one inch or so, and watch the surface carefully. You should be able
to see the aluminum oxide surface erode and expose the unoxidized
aluminum beneath. When you do, give some pedal, and when the surface
goes shiny and wet, add some filler. Be sure to keep the end of the
filler rod in the argon cloud, and carry on laying bead once you've got
it going.

Hope this helps!

Pete

--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Only the guy who isn't rowing has time to rock the boat.

Jean-Paul Sartre (1905-1980)

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 13:18:38 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Hello, all,

I got myself roped into a project making up frames

This should be a very easy weld to make, as aluminum goes. First off,
don't assume aluminum will behave like an easier material, like
stainless. It won't fuse without adding filler, regardless of how
tight you make the fit-up, and oxidizes in a flash if shielding is
inadequate.

Crank up the shielding gas - 25 CFH is not too much, especially on an
outside corner.

You'll be adding much more filler than you would for a similar joint
in ferrous metals. 3/64 filler is much too small, get some 3/32 5356
or 4043 wire.

Again in comparison to SS, you can't just hit the pedal and start
welding. You need to warm the area with the torch first. 1/8 material
won't require much; the effect is more pronounced with heavier
material. Play the torch on the joint at a relatively low heat. Keep
the torch moving a bit and avoid the corner of the tube until you're
ready to start adding filler. There are some visual cues to the right
moment to start adding filler, but without a hands-on demo you'll have
to experiment.

If you see anything more than a light gray oxidation near the edges of
the bead, either clean more thoroughly or turn up the gas. A SS wire
brush should be adequate for cleaning in a non-critical weld like
this. You shouldn't need the solvent.

And most important, practice, practice. Laying down an aluminum bead
is easy. The hard part is getting your set-up right and *starting* the
bead. Post some photos of the problem joints if you're not making
progress.

--
Ned Simmons

Pete Snell wrote:

3/64" is pretty small for filler at that gauge. Do you find the end of
the filler rod dropping off before you have a puddle? For me, I would be
using 3/32" lanthanated, 3/32" or 1/8" filler. As someone else
mentioned, 4043 would wet a bit better. I'd probably set the current at
about 150A (assuming you have a pedal), and the argon to at least 15
CFH. You will need filler wire, as most aluminum is 'hot short' and will
likely crack if no filler is added to the weld.

Clean the weld zone with a wire brush (stainless of course) or
Scotchbright or similar product. Clean with acetone. Do the same thing
with your filler rod. Setup your parts, and make sure they're well
grounded. Start the arc at about 1/2 pedal and work it back and forth
over one inch or so, and watch the surface carefully. You should be able
to see the aluminum oxide surface erode and expose the unoxidized
aluminum beneath. When you do, give some pedal, and when the surface
goes shiny and wet, add some filler. Be sure to keep the end of the
filler rod in the argon cloud, and carry on laying bead once you've got
it going.
Thanks for the hints. I dropped by the welding
store and got a new stainless wire wheel and some
3/32" 4043 filler. I cleaned with acetone (did
the wire wheel, too, as someone suggested). I
ground a vee on the pieces to give me something to
fill up, and it is working a LOT better. I still
need some more practice runs, but I'm starting to
see some success with the 6063 alloy.

Thanks again,

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:
I cleaned with acetone (did the wire wheel, too, as someone suggested).
I ground a vee on the pieces to give me something to fill up, and it is
working a LOT better.
I still need some more practice runs, but I'm starting to see some
success with the 6063 alloy.

You Rock!

--Winston

Winston wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
I cleaned with acetone (did the wire wheel, too, as someone suggested).
I ground a vee on the pieces to give me something to fill up, and it is
working a LOT better.
I still need some more practice runs, but I'm starting to see some
success with the 6063 alloy.

You Rock!
Well, I'm afraid that was a bit premature. When I
get good enough to actually start on the
rectangular tube, then maybe "I'll rock!" Right
now, I'm still messing. I got a weld that looked
real good on one side, but easily broke apart with
bare hands.
So, I got real poor (practically NO) penetration.
I will make the Vee groove deeper, turn up the
current a little, and try some more. I have made
enough progress that I think I WILL get this,
eventually.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:
Winston wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
I cleaned with acetone (did the wire wheel, too, as someone suggested).
I ground a vee on the pieces to give me something to fill up, and
it is
working a LOT better.
I still need some more practice runs, but I'm starting to see some
success with the 6063 alloy.

You Rock!
Well, I'm afraid that was a bit premature. When I get good enough to
actually start on the rectangular tube, then maybe "I'll rock!" Right
now, I'm still messing. I got a weld that looked real good on one side,
but easily broke apart with bare hands.
So, I got real poor (practically NO) penetration. I will make the Vee
groove deeper, turn up the current a little, and try some more. I have
made enough progress that I think I WILL get this, eventually.

Be sure to clean and degrease the filler rod.

Jim Stewart wrote:

Jon Elson wrote:

(...)

I have made enough progress that I think I WILL get this, eventually.

It's cool when you see the possibilities opening up.

Be sure to clean and degrease the filler rod.

Yup. Workpiece, filler and tungsten all must be clean and degreased.

--Winston

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 12:46:59 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Winston wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:
I cleaned with acetone (did the wire wheel, too, as someone suggested).
I ground a vee on the pieces to give me something to fill up, and it is
working a LOT better.
I still need some more practice runs, but I'm starting to see some
success with the 6063 alloy.

You Rock!
Well, I'm afraid that was a bit premature. When I
get good enough to actually start on the
rectangular tube, then maybe "I'll rock!" Right
now, I'm still messing. I got a weld that looked
real good on one side, but easily broke apart with
bare hands.
So, I got real poor (practically NO) penetration.
I will make the Vee groove deeper, turn up the
current a little, and try some more. I have made
enough progress that I think I WILL get this,
eventually.

Jon

You will.

Don't get too focussed on penetration. Focus on wetting. A weld
happens when metal fuses to metal. Penetration is relevant if/when the
puddle must have enough depth to create acceptable weld
cross-section. Ally puddles tend to be shallow. Helium puddles are
deeper than argon puddles. Joint design is highly relevant. With
aluminum, wetting is usually the issue. You need to establish and
maintain a puddle that wets the parts to be joined.

Don Foreman wrote:


Don't get too focussed on penetration. Focus on wetting. A weld
happens when metal fuses to metal. Penetration is relevant if/when the
puddle must have enough depth to create acceptable weld
cross-section. Ally puddles tend to be shallow. Helium puddles are
deeper than argon puddles. Joint design is highly relevant. With
aluminum, wetting is usually the issue. You need to establish and
maintain a puddle that wets the parts to be joined.

The actual project is a 12' by 3' frame made out
of 1 x 1.875" 1/8" wall rectangular tube. So, it
really does need some strength. One of the 12'
vertical pieces will be attached to hinges, and
the whole thing covered with an acoustic-absorbing
wood material. It is supposed to keep basketballs
from breaking the stained glass windows in the
"closed" position, and be an acoustic treatment
when "open".
The thing is going to weigh something like 75 Lbs
when complete, and obviously take some abuse in
the gym mode.

If I can rip the welds apart with my bare hands,
it won't work.

Well, I made a deeper groove and turned up the
current, and I got something that looked HORRIBLE,
but I couldn't break it, even with both hands and
a knee.
(These are small practice pieces, with a 4" seam
on 1/8" material, welding from one side only, like
I will have to do with the rect. tube. This 4"
material appears to be harder to weld than the
actual tube I will be doing, so I may be "good
enough" to try the real material now. This
practice stuff cracked VERY badly when I welded it
without filler, but one piece of tube that I had
some success with didn't crack at all and gave a
very good looking weld where I got it to fuse. (I
had a lot of trouble starting the weld and making
ugly holes in it. I think I'm getting the hang of
starting the fusion with filler and a V groove, now.)

Thanks,

Jon
Jon

On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 00:36:18 -0500, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 12:46:59 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:
So, I got real poor (practically NO) penetration.
I will make the Vee groove deeper, turn up the
current a little, and try some more. I have made
enough progress that I think I WILL get this,
eventually.

You will.

Don't get too focussed on penetration. Focus on wetting.

Hmm, are we still talking about welding here, or has the focus
drifted?

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

Jon Elson wrote:

If I can rip the welds apart with my bare hands, it won't work.

More current, lots of cleaning with acetone, brand
new stainless wire brush, and
just some more practice, and I've got a REAL weld!
It's ugly, oh YES, but it is strong enough.
With 12' lengths of extrusion, the corners don't
have to be all that strong, as those straight
sections will sag under their own weight. It just
needs to be strong enough to survive handling
until the acoustic sheet material is screwed onto
it, and it should hang together.

Oh, yeah, the thicker 4043 filler rod is a LOT
easier to work with than the too-thin 5356 MIG
wire. This 6063 material seems to be easier to
weld that the 6062 scrap that I was practicing on,
which is a TOTAL bear! Maybe it was too old and
dirty or something. But, always good to build up
your skills on something HARDER that the actual
job needs.

Now, I need to set up a mini-factory to cut the
material and fixture the parts. 10 frames = 40
joints to weld. I should be getting pretty good
at by the time I'm done.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:
(...)
Now, I need to set up a mini-factory to cut the material and fixture the
parts. 10 frames = 40 joints to weld. I should be getting pretty good
at by the time I'm done.

As a great philosopher once said: "You Rock!"

--Winston