I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
..0056J8???? can't read the rest. I'll probably get hammered, but, I'm
not exactly sure what value this means. Also, can I replace this with a
different type cap since I don't want to have to order this specific
component? It is in the power supply of an RCA TV as most of you
probably already know. I am a semi-beginner in TV repair, but often run
across these type things I'm not familiar with. Thanks for your
continued support.

"Golf" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 02:38:16 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
wrote:


"Golf" wrote in message
roups.com...
I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF


and J = +/- 5% tolerance

This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance.
It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this
would be an unusual value). According to this page
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm the '8' might signify a 2000V
rating.

"Ross Herbert" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 02:38:16 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
wrote:


"Golf" wrote in message
groups.com...
I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF


and J = +/- 5% tolerance

This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance.
It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this
would be an unusual value). According to this page
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm the '8' might signify a 2000V
rating.

This is where correct use of terminology comes in. Where exactly in the
receiver, do you mean by " power supply " ? In the area where the line cord
comes in, and the switching power supply for all of the primary rails is, or
are you referring to the area around the flyback, that generates the CRT
final anode voltage, and other sub-rails for the unit ?

I would go along with the value being 0.0056uF ( 5600pF ) and 5% tolerance.
If it is one of the 'boxy' types, then with this value, I would suspect that
it might well be something like flyback tuning, in the horizontal output
stage, rather than the power supply, and is likely to be rated for around
2kV. If this is the case, this capacitor type is chosen carefully for this
application, and should not under any circumstances, be substituted for a
different type. Even the correct types sometimes go up like fireworks, and
do considerable damage to a pcb, so fitting the wrong type could prove
disastrous.

In general, particularly whilst you're in the learning stages, and not
sufficiently experienced to appreciate the subtle differences between
various component specifications, I would strongly recommend that you
replace only like for like, particularly in TV sets, and no matter how
difficult the 'real' component is to obtain. Remember that some components
are also
" designated safety components " and should not under any circumstances be
substituted with other types. Schematics for the item under repair, will
make any such components clear. At the end of the day, you are ultimately
responsible for any repair that you put back out there, so it makes good
sense to repair only to the manufacturers' original standards, and know that
the item is not going to burn down someone's house as a result of a
substitute component that you have fitted.

I hope that hasn't put you off, but I think that it's an important point
that you should grasp the implications of, as early as you can.

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote:
"Ross Herbert" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 02:38:16 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
wrote:
"Golf" wrote in message
groups.com...

I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF

aka 5.6nF

and J = +/- 5% tolerance

This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance.
It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this
would be an unusual value). According to this page
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm the '8' might signify a 2000V
rating.

This is where correct use of terminology comes in. Where exactly in the
receiver, do you mean by " power supply " ? In the area where the line cord
comes in, and the switching power supply for all of the primary rails is, or
are you referring to the area around the flyback, that generates the CRT
final anode voltage, and other sub-rails for the unit ?

I would go along with the value being 0.0056uF ( 5600pF ) and 5% tolerance.
If it is one of the 'boxy' types, then with this value, I would suspect that
it might well be something like flyback tuning, in the horizontal output
stage, rather than the power supply, and is likely to be rated for around
2kV. If this is the case, this capacitor type is chosen carefully for this
application, and should not under any circumstances, be substituted for a
different type. Even the correct types sometimes go up like fireworks, and
do considerable damage to a pcb, so fitting the wrong type could prove
disastrous.

In general, particularly whilst you're in the learning stages, and not
sufficiently experienced to appreciate the subtle differences between
various component specifications, I would strongly recommend that you
replace only like for like, particularly in TV sets, and no matter how
difficult the 'real' component is to obtain. Remember that some components
are also
" designated safety components " and should not under any circumstances be
substituted with other types. Schematics for the item under repair, will
make any such components clear. At the end of the day, you are ultimately
responsible for any repair that you put back out there, so it makes good
sense to repair only to the manufacturers' original standards, and know that
the item is not going to burn down someone's house as a result of a
substitute component that you have fitted.

I hope that hasn't put you off, but I think that it's an important point
that you should grasp the implications of, as early as you can.

Arfa

Well, I'll say different... in 98-99% of cases you can substitute other
types just fine. There are however some cavets:

safety resistors - these are fuses and resistors in one, and should
never be replaced with bog standard Rs.
X and Y rated capacitors - these have characteristics that improve
their safety on L-N or L-E apps, and only X or Y types respectively
should be subbed.
Fuses, use the right type, dont swap std with time delay etc
Small capacitors in tuned stages: excellant stability is important, so
forget poorly specced ones.

It sounds like Arfa and I come at repairs from somewhat different
angles. I've never needed to concern myself with whether something is
as it was originally made, but rather with whether it is effective,
reliable, safe, and looks good. You can do a whole lotta mods and stay
within those requirements.


NT

Arfa Daily wrote:
"Ross Herbert" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 02:38:16 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
wrote:
"Golf" wrote in message
groups.com...

I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF

aka 5.6nF

and J = +/- 5% tolerance

This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance.
It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this
would be an unusual value). According to this page
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm the '8' might signify a 2000V
rating.

This is where correct use of terminology comes in. Where exactly in the
receiver, do you mean by " power supply " ? In the area where the line cord
comes in, and the switching power supply for all of the primary rails is, or
are you referring to the area around the flyback, that generates the CRT
final anode voltage, and other sub-rails for the unit ?

I would go along with the value being 0.0056uF ( 5600pF ) and 5% tolerance.
If it is one of the 'boxy' types, then with this value, I would suspect that
it might well be something like flyback tuning, in the horizontal output
stage, rather than the power supply, and is likely to be rated for around
2kV. If this is the case, this capacitor type is chosen carefully for this
application, and should not under any circumstances, be substituted for a
different type. Even the correct types sometimes go up like fireworks, and
do considerable damage to a pcb, so fitting the wrong type could prove
disastrous.

In general, particularly whilst you're in the learning stages, and not
sufficiently experienced to appreciate the subtle differences between
various component specifications, I would strongly recommend that you
replace only like for like, particularly in TV sets, and no matter how
difficult the 'real' component is to obtain. Remember that some components
are also
" designated safety components " and should not under any circumstances be
substituted with other types. Schematics for the item under repair, will
make any such components clear. At the end of the day, you are ultimately
responsible for any repair that you put back out there, so it makes good
sense to repair only to the manufacturers' original standards, and know that
the item is not going to burn down someone's house as a result of a
substitute component that you have fitted.

I hope that hasn't put you off, but I think that it's an important point
that you should grasp the implications of, as early as you can.

Arfa

Well, I'll say different... in 98-99% of cases you can substitute other
types just fine. There are however some cavets:

safety resistors - these are fuses and resistors in one, and should
never be replaced with bog standard Rs.
X and Y rated capacitors - these have characteristics that improve
their safety on L-N or L-E apps, and only X or Y types respectively
should be subbed.
Fuses, use the right type, dont swap std with time delay etc
Small capacitors in tuned stages: excellant stability is important, so
forget poorly specced ones.

It sounds like Arfa and I come at repairs from somewhat different
angles. I've never needed to concern myself with whether something is
as it was originally made, but rather with whether it is effective,
reliable, safe, and looks good. You can do a whole lotta mods and stay
within those requirements.

I forgot diodes, dont replace ultrafast with not fast.


NT

wrote in message
oups.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:
"Ross Herbert" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 02:38:16 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
wrote:
"Golf" wrote in message
groups.com...

I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but
I'm
not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not
sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on
t -
.0056J8???? can't read the rest.

PROBABLY a .0056 uF

aka 5.6nF

and J = +/- 5% tolerance

This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance.
It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this
would be an unusual value). According to this page
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm the '8' might signify a 2000V
rating.

This is where correct use of terminology comes in. Where exactly in the
receiver, do you mean by " power supply " ? In the area where the line
cord
comes in, and the switching power supply for all of the primary rails is,
or
are you referring to the area around the flyback, that generates the CRT
final anode voltage, and other sub-rails for the unit ?

I would go along with the value being 0.0056uF ( 5600pF ) and 5%
tolerance.
If it is one of the 'boxy' types, then with this value, I would suspect
that
it might well be something like flyback tuning, in the horizontal output
stage, rather than the power supply, and is likely to be rated for around
2kV. If this is the case, this capacitor type is chosen carefully for
this
application, and should not under any circumstances, be substituted for a
different type. Even the correct types sometimes go up like fireworks,
and
do considerable damage to a pcb, so fitting the wrong type could prove
disastrous.

In general, particularly whilst you're in the learning stages, and not
sufficiently experienced to appreciate the subtle differences between
various component specifications, I would strongly recommend that you
replace only like for like, particularly in TV sets, and no matter how
difficult the 'real' component is to obtain. Remember that some
components
are also
" designated safety components " and should not under any circumstances
be
substituted with other types. Schematics for the item under repair, will
make any such components clear. At the end of the day, you are ultimately
responsible for any repair that you put back out there, so it makes good
sense to repair only to the manufacturers' original standards, and know
that
the item is not going to burn down someone's house as a result of a
substitute component that you have fitted.

I hope that hasn't put you off, but I think that it's an important point
that you should grasp the implications of, as early as you can.

Arfa

Well, I'll say different... in 98-99% of cases you can substitute other
types just fine. There are however some cavets:

safety resistors - these are fuses and resistors in one, and should
never be replaced with bog standard Rs.
X and Y rated capacitors - these have characteristics that improve
their safety on L-N or L-E apps, and only X or Y types respectively
should be subbed.
Fuses, use the right type, dont swap std with time delay etc
Small capacitors in tuned stages: excellant stability is important, so
forget poorly specced ones.

It sounds like Arfa and I come at repairs from somewhat different
angles. I've never needed to concern myself with whether something is
as it was originally made, but rather with whether it is effective,
reliable, safe, and looks good. You can do a whole lotta mods and stay
within those requirements.

I forgot diodes, dont replace ultrafast with not fast.


NT

Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

Of course I substitute sometimes - all engineers do, but the point that I
was making was that you need a lot of years' experience to make the
judgement as to what is an acceptable substitute, and what isn't, so if you
do not have that experience, don't make substitutes at all.

I would absolutely refute that in general, it is safe to substitute cap
types in high voltage and pulse circuits. These devices are prone to
catastrophic failure with fireworks, but because of this, have certified
flame retardant cases, amongst other important characteristics. Also, as you
say, caps used to tune RF stages have particular dielectric types, giving
rise to enhanced electrical, mechanical and thermal stability. Substituting
with an inappropriate type, could lead to a serious degradation in the
performance of a receiver or transmitter.

I don't know whereabouts in the world you are, or whether you are a
professional repairer, but in general, repair shops are responsible for the
safety of any repaired items that they put back out into the public domain,
and I for one, take that responsibility seriously, which is why I gave the
advice that in the case that the OP was asking about, he should only replace
the cap like for like. I accept what you say about being able to carry out
mods and stay within the realms of what would be considered effective and
reliable, but sometimes, it may be difficult to stay within what is safe.
Without detailed knowledge of the designer's thought processes, it might be
difficult to know why a particular component type was used, what the safety
issues were, and more relevant still, what exactly the safety legislation
issues were relating to the choice of a specific component, which is why I
say in general, don't sub component types, unless you really understand what
you are doing.

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote:

Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

Of course I substitute sometimes - all engineers do, but the point that I
was making was that you need a lot of years' experience to make the
judgement as to what is an acceptable substitute, and what isn't, so if you
do not have that experience, don't make substitutes at all.

I would absolutely refute that in general, it is safe to substitute cap
types in high voltage and pulse circuits. These devices are prone to
catastrophic failure with fireworks, but because of this, have certified
flame retardant cases, amongst other important characteristics. Also, as you
say, caps used to tune RF stages have particular dielectric types, giving
rise to enhanced electrical, mechanical and thermal stability. Substituting
with an inappropriate type, could lead to a serious degradation in the
performance of a receiver or transmitter.

I don't know whereabouts in the world you are, or whether you are a
professional repairer, but in general, repair shops are responsible for the
safety of any repaired items that they put back out into the public domain,
and I for one, take that responsibility seriously, which is why I gave the
advice that in the case that the OP was asking about, he should only replace
the cap like for like. I accept what you say about being able to carry out
mods and stay within the realms of what would be considered effective and
reliable, but sometimes, it may be difficult to stay within what is safe.
Without detailed knowledge of the designer's thought processes, it might be
difficult to know why a particular component type was used, what the safety
issues were, and more relevant still, what exactly the safety legislation
issues were relating to the choice of a specific component, which is why I
say in general, don't sub component types, unless you really understand what
you are doing.

Arfa


Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

PJ, gppd sunnbry Brfb.


NT

wrote in message
ups.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:

Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

Of course I substitute sometimes - all engineers do, but the point that I
was making was that you need a lot of years' experience to make the
judgement as to what is an acceptable substitute, and what isn't, so if
you
do not have that experience, don't make substitutes at all.

I would absolutely refute that in general, it is safe to substitute cap
types in high voltage and pulse circuits. These devices are prone to
catastrophic failure with fireworks, but because of this, have certified
flame retardant cases, amongst other important characteristics. Also, as
you
say, caps used to tune RF stages have particular dielectric types, giving
rise to enhanced electrical, mechanical and thermal stability.
Substituting
with an inappropriate type, could lead to a serious degradation in the
performance of a receiver or transmitter.

I don't know whereabouts in the world you are, or whether you are a
professional repairer, but in general, repair shops are responsible for
the
safety of any repaired items that they put back out into the public
domain,
and I for one, take that responsibility seriously, which is why I gave
the
advice that in the case that the OP was asking about, he should only
replace
the cap like for like. I accept what you say about being able to carry
out
mods and stay within the realms of what would be considered effective and
reliable, but sometimes, it may be difficult to stay within what is safe.
Without detailed knowledge of the designer's thought processes, it might
be
difficult to know why a particular component type was used, what the
safety
issues were, and more relevant still, what exactly the safety legislation
issues were relating to the choice of a specific component, which is why
I
say in general, don't sub component types, unless you really understand
what
you are doing.

Arfa


Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

PJ, gppd sunnbry Brfb.


NT

Oh cracker !! I love it !! Took me a couple of minutes, but yes - very
clever ! Don't you just love newsgroups ? Have a good 'un NT.

Arfa

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 22:37:04 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
PJ, gppd sunnbry Brfb.


NT

Oh cracker !! I love it !! Took me a couple of minutes, but yes - very
clever ! Don't you just love newsgroups ? Have a good 'un NT.

Arfa


Is that anything like "Dilligaf"?

Arfa Daily wrote:
wrote in message

Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have
basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's
with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you
should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...

PJ, gppd sunnbry Brfb.

Oh cracker !! I love it !! Took me a couple of minutes, but yes - very
clever ! Don't you just love newsgroups ? Have a good 'un NT.

Arfa