A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

R.H. wrote:
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

618. The infamous Klownhammer! Looks like it'd pulverize ya.
619. ?
620. Doweling jig, helps you drill the hole in the proper position.
621. Fishing Gig, helps you eat. Oh wait. that's too big a tip.
Maybe for a carp?
622. Looks like a pressure valve or something.
623. ?

er
--
email not valid

619. looks like it's used for stretching the webbing for furniture
upholstery. Back end looks like a staple puller.
Karl

"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



Rear axel and leaf springs off of a Ford.

621- weed puller
623- door open button on an elevator

Dave

Hi,

618 looks like something to make round tenons
619 as others suggest is used with upholstery
620 as others suggest looks to be a doweling
jig
? 621 is push down on something ( maybe rope,
cable,
or sheet material) to grab it. The handle
looks a bit homemade. The red color
hints
that it might used where it was hard to
see.

? 622 is either a thermostat or a pressure relief
valve
623 as others suggest is a " Door Open"
button on an elevator

Fun as always
Roger Haar

"R.H." wrote:

A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

Rob

R.H. wrote:
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

618. bush hammer, for stone work

620. doweling jig

John Martin

"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



618 - BIG meat mallet?
619 - Webbing stretcher for upholstery work
620 - Edge drilling jig. Clamp it to a board/beam and set the distance
you want the hole from the edge.
621 - We have one like it at the fire station, Not sure what it
originally was used for but we use it to annoy each other....
622 - Expanding plug. used for many things. That one looks like it is
used to pull pipe or conduit.
623 - Looks like a rocker style direction control for a tape deck.



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On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 09:33:52 GMT, "R.H." wrote:

A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

From RCM

First 622 is the bottom check valve for a rod type well pump. I'm
guessing it is 1 7/8".

and ... 621 is a "grab" to let down in the pipe (attached to a cable
or the end of a string of rods) to retrieve the valve.

The cup leather is missing from the check valve. Spent my youth as a
windmill man.
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

622. Lower check valve for a jack type water pump.
621. Retrieving tool for 622.

Art


"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

R.H. wrote:
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

619. Upholstery tool for tightening webbing and pulling tacks
620. Doweling jig-might be missing a few bushings

RCM
--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

I've been trying to figure it out. The cylinder of a jack pump
would be on the end of a pipe that could be hundreds of feet long.
Wouldn't the check valve be screwed to the bottom of the cylinder?

How would you snatch the check valve below the pump, and how would
you pull it up? It seems to me that the way to retrieve the valve
would be to retrieve the pump by pulling up the pipe.

Wood Butcher wrote:

622. Lower check valve for a jack type water pump.
621. Retrieving tool for 622.

Art

"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob


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The lower cylinder is screwed onto the bottom of the pipe
and the bottom few inches of it are tapered. The bottom check
valve is just dropped into the cylinder and it wedges itself
into the tapered part. The upper check valve is attached to
the rod which is inserted into the pipe and lowered down
into the cylinder. To retrieve the lower check valve you
pull the rod out, remove the upper valve, attach the grabber,
reinsert the rod and grab the bottom valve. This operation
is a lot easier than pulling the entire pipe string which can
weigh upwards of hundreds of pounds. The old timers weren't
stupid.

I have seen 1 case where the grabber was included as part of
the upper check valve. This makes the retrieving operation
even simpler, although one has to be careful not to inadvertently
snag the lower valve when installing the pump.

Art

"Sawney Beane" wrote in message
...
I've been trying to figure it out. The cylinder of a jack pump
would be on the end of a pipe that could be hundreds of feet long.
Wouldn't the check valve be screwed to the bottom of the cylinder?

How would you snatch the check valve below the pump, and how would
you pull it up? It seems to me that the way to retrieve the valve
would be to retrieve the pump by pulling up the pipe.

Wood Butcher wrote:

622. Lower check valve for a jack type water pump.
621. Retrieving tool for 622.

Art

"R.H." wrote in message
. ..
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob


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http://www.SecureIX.com ***

I thought this was a difficult set, but they've all been correctly
identified:




618. Stone worker's bush hammer

619. This was marked "carpet tool", but I think it is for upholstery as
suggested by others here.

620. Stanley No. 59 doweling jig

621. Check valve grabber, thanks to Leon for submitting this one and the
next

622. Check valve

623. Elevator "door open" icon


A few more photos and some links have been posted on the answer page:

http://pzphotosans109rt.blogspot.com/


Rob

"Wood Butcher" wrote in message
...
The lower cylinder is screwed onto the bottom of the pipe
and the bottom few inches of it are tapered. The bottom check
valve is just dropped into the cylinder and it wedges itself
into the tapered part. The upper check valve is attached to
the rod which is inserted into the pipe and lowered down
into the cylinder. To retrieve the lower check valve you
pull the rod out, remove the upper valve, attach the grabber,
reinsert the rod and grab the bottom valve. This operation
is a lot easier than pulling the entire pipe string which can
weigh upwards of hundreds of pounds. The old timers weren't
stupid.

I have seen 1 case where the grabber was included as part of
the upper check valve. This makes the retrieving operation
even simpler, although one has to be careful not to inadvertently
snag the lower valve when installing the pump.


I can't find any similar tools on the web when searching for "valve
retreiver" or "valve grabber", what other term is this tool known by?

Rob

Rob H.:
I thought this was a difficult set, but they've all been correctly
identified:

618. Stone worker's bush hammer ...

Okay, so what's the advantage for stone workers of a hammerhead made up
of many small pieces of metal instead of one big one? You'd think those
big bolts would just be coming undone all the time. And for that matter,
how's the thing used anyway? Do they bring the ends of the small flat
plates down against the stone or what?
--
Mark Brader, Toronto | "True excitement lies in doing
| 'sdb /unix /dev/kmem'" -- Pontus Hedman

Mark Brader wrote:
Rob H.:
I thought this was a difficult set, but they've all been correctly
identified:

618. Stone worker's bush hammer ...

Okay, so what's the advantage for stone workers of a hammerhead made up
of many small pieces of metal instead of one big one? You'd think those
big bolts would just be coming undone all the time. And for that matter,
how's the thing used anyway? Do they bring the ends of the small flat
plates down against the stone or what?

My guess is that the individual plates are less expensive both to make
and replace (they probably wear out from all the stone hammering).

Mark Brader wrote:

Rob H.:
I thought this was a difficult set, but they've all been correctly
identified:

618. Stone worker's bush hammer ...

Okay, so what's the advantage for stone workers of a hammerhead made up
of many small pieces of metal instead of one big one? You'd think those
big bolts would just be coming undone all the time. And for that matter,
how's the thing used anyway? Do they bring the ends of the small flat
plates down against the stone or what?

A bush hammer is used as a rasp might be used on wood. The picture
looks like a good design for maintaining all those chipping edges.
..
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"Mark Brader" wrote in message
...
Rob H.:
I thought this was a difficult set, but they've all been correctly
identified:

618. Stone worker's bush hammer ...

Okay, so what's the advantage for stone workers of a hammerhead made up
of many small pieces of metal instead of one big one? You'd think those
big bolts would just be coming undone all the time. And for that matter,
how's the thing used anyway? Do they bring the ends of the small flat
plates down against the stone or what?


According to the "Dictionary of American Hand Tools":

"Hammer, Bush: A hammer used for breaking stone and for removing
projections to flatten a stone. Weight is 3 to 10.5 pounds. One variety of
bush hammer is made of several leaves that can be disassembled for
sharpening."


Rob

Sawney Beane writes:
A bush hammer is used as a rasp might be used on wood. The picture
looks like a good design for maintaining all those chipping edges.

Ah. Thanks.
--
Mark Brader | "[He] is my nation's leader ... i.e., the piece of
Toronto | clear tape at the beginning of a cassette that you
| can't record anything on...." --R.H. Draney

According to R.H. :
A new set of photos has been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

Well ... I've finally got my newsfeed working again. It appears
that they crashed and rebuilt from backups, resulting in resetting the
article numbers significantly. Since my system believed that I had
already seen the articles by those numbers, I got nothing. :-)

Anyway -- I saved what I posted to the web site, and will now
include it here. I've read some of the replies on the web site since,
and agree with them in place of some of my answers below, but this is
what I said then, so I should post it now. :-)

================================================== ====================
I'm going to have to post this to the web site this time, as it
appears that my news server is experiencing problems. I've been able to
get *nothing* all day. Hopefully, I will be back on line tomorrow.

In the meanwhile, I *would* *have* been reading this and responding
in rec.crafts.metalworking, if the news server were up.


618) Some kind of hammer with replaceable strikers.
Rather heavy, perhaps for breaking up slag, or
chipping off of stone.

619) Another strange tool. The handle end appears to
be set for pulling tacks or small nails. Perhaps this
is a tool to stretch webbing under furniture.

620) This is designed for putting a hole a precise distance
from the edge of something like a door -- probably for
positioning the striker of a lockset. You drill through
the tube, and there is a set of index marks for different
sizes of holes.

621) Spring loaded hooks for catching and pulling something.
Perhaps wire, or an eye hook on the top of something.
You just push the tips down and they snap on whatever
it is, and then pull to lift it.

622) Some kind of pressure relief valve, or perhaps a one-way
valve of some sort. I would guess for water or steam.

623) This looks like a button for reversing a tape being
played -- probably a cassette tape.


================================================== ====================

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Sorry Rob. "Valve grabber" is the only term I knew it by.
I did find a bunch of websites which sell & service jack
pumps but no mention of a grabber or retriever. Perhaps
a phone call to one of them would connect you to someone
who knows.

Art

"R.H." wrote in message
.. .

"Wood Butcher" wrote in message
...
The lower cylinder is screwed onto the bottom of the pipe
and the bottom few inches of it are tapered. The bottom check
valve is just dropped into the cylinder and it wedges itself
into the tapered part. The upper check valve is attached to
the rod which is inserted into the pipe and lowered down
into the cylinder. To retrieve the lower check valve you
pull the rod out, remove the upper valve, attach the grabber,
reinsert the rod and grab the bottom valve. This operation
is a lot easier than pulling the entire pipe string which can
weigh upwards of hundreds of pounds. The old timers weren't
stupid.

I have seen 1 case where the grabber was included as part of
the upper check valve. This makes the retrieving operation
even simpler, although one has to be careful not to inadvertently
snag the lower valve when installing the pump.


I can't find any similar tools on the web when searching for "valve
retreiver" or "valve grabber", what other term is this tool known by?

Rob

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:11:44 -0800, "Wood Butcher"
wrote:

Sorry Rob. "Valve grabber" is the only term I knew it by.
I did find a bunch of websites which sell & service jack
pumps but no mention of a grabber or retriever. Perhaps
a phone call to one of them would connect you to someone
who knows.

When I first saw it I thought how close it was to the bottom check
valve retriever that I made many years ago for my dad (it wasn't till
I scrolled down and saw the check that I knew that was what it was
for). We don't have hand pump wells but rather lots of windmills. The
checks for windmills are a little different. Primarily the main
difference is the absence of the bail on top of that one. Thus I had
to make mine to grab the cage around the ball. The best model I made
had 4 grabbers to catch all four opening.

Anyway what this is adding up to is the fact that I've never seen
another check catcher like mine till I saw that pic. There's lots of
windmills in this area but nobody I know of has any like that other
than the ones I made (or copies of mine). I'd never seen one like it
before I built my first one either.

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 17:50:13 -0600, Wayne Cook
wrote:

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:11:44 -0800, "Wood Butcher"
wrote:

Sorry Rob. "Valve grabber" is the only term I knew it by.
I did find a bunch of websites which sell & service jack
pumps but no mention of a grabber or retriever. Perhaps
a phone call to one of them would connect you to someone
who knows.

When I first saw it I thought how close it was to the bottom check
valve retriever that I made many years ago for my dad (it wasn't till
I scrolled down and saw the check that I knew that was what it was
for). We don't have hand pump wells but rather lots of windmills. The
checks for windmills are a little different. Primarily the main
difference is the absence of the bail on top of that one. Thus I had
to make mine to grab the cage around the ball. The best model I made
had 4 grabbers to catch all four opening.

Anyway what this is adding up to is the fact that I've never seen
another check catcher like mine till I saw that pic. There's lots of
windmills in this area but nobody I know of has any like that other
than the ones I made (or copies of mine). I'd never seen one like it
before I built my first one either.

Wayne, I don't know how old you are but I made my first one in 1963.
Pounded it out on an anvil from a truck axle u-bolt. Welded it to a
5/8" rod coupling. The whole thing was screwed to a 1.5" shaft about
6" long. A 5/16" sand line would reach down the 500 to 700 feet around
here.

If you used a gentle touch, you could let the grab down around the
valve spool and raise it to let the water out of the pipe and then
pull the valve without the weigh of the water.

Modern bottom check valves have inner and outer threads. You can let
the top valve down onto the bottom one and screw onto it and pull both
at the same time. Most of the valves had spools with replaceable
seats. Some had brass balls. They are made totally of brass.

Just as an aside, well pipe is P & R. Plugged and reamed. Ends are
reamed and a plug is pulled through insure a 2" pipe has a 2" opening
top to bottom. Also, the couplings are about twice as long as ordinary
couplings.
--
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According to Andy Asberry :

[ ... ]

Modern bottom check valves have inner and outer threads. You can let
the top valve down onto the bottom one and screw onto it and pull both
at the same time. Most of the valves had spools with replaceable
seats. Some had brass balls. They are made totally of brass.

Are you sure about brass? I would think that bronze would be
the better choice, as brass in contact with water long term is subject
to de-zincification.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 20:55:03 -0600, Andy Asberry
wrote:

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 17:50:13 -0600, Wayne Cook
wrote:

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:11:44 -0800, "Wood Butcher"
wrote:

Sorry Rob. "Valve grabber" is the only term I knew it by.
I did find a bunch of websites which sell & service jack
pumps but no mention of a grabber or retriever. Perhaps
a phone call to one of them would connect you to someone
who knows.

When I first saw it I thought how close it was to the bottom check
valve retriever that I made many years ago for my dad (it wasn't till
I scrolled down and saw the check that I knew that was what it was
for). We don't have hand pump wells but rather lots of windmills. The
checks for windmills are a little different. Primarily the main
difference is the absence of the bail on top of that one. Thus I had
to make mine to grab the cage around the ball. The best model I made
had 4 grabbers to catch all four opening.

Anyway what this is adding up to is the fact that I've never seen
another check catcher like mine till I saw that pic. There's lots of
windmills in this area but nobody I know of has any like that other
than the ones I made (or copies of mine). I'd never seen one like it
before I built my first one either.

Wayne, I don't know how old you are but I made my first one in 1963.
Pounded it out on an anvil from a truck axle u-bolt. Welded it to a
5/8" rod coupling. The whole thing was screwed to a 1.5" shaft about
6" long. A 5/16" sand line would reach down the 500 to 700 feet around
here.

Hmm. That's about a year before I was born. :-)

We just use mine on the end of the sucker rod string. Of course we
don't have any wells deeper than about 80 feet so it's not that much
trouble.

If you used a gentle touch, you could let the grab down around the
valve spool and raise it to let the water out of the pipe and then
pull the valve without the weigh of the water.


Modern bottom check valves have inner and outer threads. You can let
the top valve down onto the bottom one and screw onto it and pull both
at the same time. Most of the valves had spools with replaceable
seats. Some had brass balls. They are made totally of brass.

Yep. Except that the high gypsum content of the water around here
usually makes the threads unusable. I've only seen a couple of the
spool type around here. Balls are the order of the day it seems.

Just as an aside, well pipe is P & R. Plugged and reamed. Ends are
reamed and a plug is pulled through insure a 2" pipe has a 2" opening
top to bottom. Also, the couplings are about twice as long as ordinary
couplings.

Yep and it's high as all get out anymore.

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 03:58:15 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:

According to Andy Asberry :

[ ... ]

Modern bottom check valves have inner and outer threads. You can let
the top valve down onto the bottom one and screw onto it and pull both
at the same time. Most of the valves had spools with replaceable
seats. Some had brass balls. They are made totally of brass.

Are you sure about brass? I would think that bronze would be
the better choice, as brass in contact with water long term is subject
to de-zincification.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Of course, you are correct Don. The working barrel is brass though.
--
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