Dress the points on the starter plate, clean everything well. rest the
new bearings on light bulbs to heat em up and swell them, work fast
before they shrink.
Put some witness marks between the ends and the center so everything
goes back together the same way.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Dress the points on the starter plate, clean everything well. rest the
new bearings on light bulbs to heat em up and swell them, work fast
before they shrink.

No need to expand the bearings on the Baldor 5HP SF. They press only
lightly into the bells, and slide over the shafts with some clearance.

LLoyd

"Ignoramus6689" wrote in message
...
I think that I will try replacing bearings in a 5 hp single phase
motor. Weight about 100 lbs. My plan is as follows:

0) test the motor first to see if it runs at all.

1) hold the motor vertically by screwing the base to a wooden board
etc. Rotor points up.

2) remove top end bell

3) gently pull out the rotor

The starter switch is in the end opposite the shaft on my motor. Take some
particular care to remove that bell without harming the centrifugal switch
affair. It's delicate, and a little tricky to get all back together if you
futz the disassembly.

I'd do the operation shaft-down, if I were doing it. I'm not sure what
"rotor up" means, anyway, since the rotor is inside the motor and occupies
pretty much the full length. Did you mean "shaft up"? If so, I'd recommend
starting shaft-down.

LLoyd

Witness mark (scratch AND magic marker), tap lightly with hammer, pry
with screwdriver. Should just pop right off.

Ignoramus6689 wrote:
On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 19:36:27 GMT, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Ignoramus6689" wrote in message
...

I think that I will try replacing bearings in a 5 hp single phase
motor. Weight about 100 lbs. My plan is as follows:

0) test the motor first to see if it runs at all.

1) hold the motor vertically by screwing the base to a wooden board
etc. Rotor points up.

2) remove top end bell

3) gently pull out the rotor


The starter switch is in the end opposite the shaft on my motor. Take some
particular care to remove that bell without harming the centrifugal switch
affair. It's delicate, and a little tricky to get all back together if you
futz the disassembly.

I'd do the operation shaft-down, if I were doing it. I'm not sure what
"rotor up" means, anyway, since the rotor is inside the motor and occupies
pretty much the full length. Did you mean "shaft up"? If so, I'd recommend
starting shaft-down.


Yes, I meant shaft down. So, you would suggest to mount it shaft
down,, and to gently remove the back (now opinting upwards) end
bell. Right?

If so, how should Iremove end bell, just pry it with a screwdriver?

i

The points are the electrical contacts in/on the starter plate that
dis-engage the start windings on speed. If the motor has been around
long enough to wear out a set of bearings these usually need to be
cleaned. I pull sone 400grit silicon carbide paper through a few times
followed by some newsprint paper.

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 19:14:55 GMT, Ignoramus6689
wrote:

I think that I will try replacing bearings in a 5 hp single phase
motor. Weight about 100 lbs. My plan is as follows:

0) test the motor first to see if it runs at all.

1) hold the motor vertically by screwing the base to a wooden board
etc. Rotor points up.

2) remove top end bell

and watch bottom end bell, and rotor hit the floor when you remove
the bolts.

3) gently pull out the rotor

Not likely.

4) remove end bells and somehow or other pull bearings.

No problem there.

5) insert new bearings into end bells

6) lay the back end bell on the table

7) out the middle part on

8) insert the rotor gently

9) put the top end bell on, screw everything together


Proper way is

Throw on workbench loose so you can turn it to get to everything.

Put witness marks on each end plate and motor housing.

Mark down, photograph or otherwise memorize the wiring on the power
connector board.

Remove wire connections from top side of board.

Remove bolts which holds end bells (hint the bolts go all the way
through motor).

Use punch, chisel, or best is a beater screw driver to loosen back
end bell (opposite shaft).

Carefully pull end bell off (might need some persuasion with a soft
hammer).

Memorize wiring connections to back of board in some way and remove
the ones needed to get end bell free from field windings.

Either use above method to remove front end bell or alternatively
use a soft hammer to drive rotor and front bell out of field winding
and then remove end bell from rotor in some way.

Replace bearings and reassemble in reverse order.

You might also double check that there are no screws near the
bearing portion of the end bells. It's not likely in a motor that size
but larger motors will often have bearing retainer plates inside the
bells which need to be loosened before removal of rotor or you risk
breaking them.



Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

"Ignoramus6689" wrote in message
...
| I think that I will try replacing bearings in a 5 hp single phase
| motor. Weight about 100 lbs. My plan is as follows:

It's good that you're planning this job way ahead. Having done a few
3phase motors in situ awhile back, I wanted to see if maybe you could save a
step, for reasons I'll explain when we get there. This worked for me for on
3 phase motors, but I can't see if that different for a single phase 5hp
motor.
Mount the motor on something so that the output shaft end is down.
Remove the bolts and carefully lift the end up and away. With your hands or
a hoist, raise the rotor straight up and out using whatever method of
attachment works for you. When you go to replace the lower bearings you may
have to reach in, but for a big motor it's no big deal. When that one is
done, lower the rotor back in carefully. The reason is that for some reason
it's a lot easier to get the shaft slid into the bearing than the end plate
on with the rotor resting in the stator from vertical. Being vertical, as
you imagine, is a little harder, but trying to move it sideways is a whole
lot easier in order to get it to line up. I could never handle holding up
the rotor while sliding in and not hurting my back or something.
Of course, having a cherry picker or forklift doing the heavy lifting
makes things a whole lot easier!

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 19:36:27 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


"Ignoramus6689" wrote in message
...
I think that I will try replacing bearings in a 5 hp single phase
motor. Weight about 100 lbs. My plan is as follows:

0) test the motor first to see if it runs at all.

1) hold the motor vertically by screwing the base to a wooden board
etc. Rotor points up.

2) remove top end bell

3) gently pull out the rotor

The starter switch is in the end opposite the shaft on my motor. Take some
particular care to remove that bell without harming the centrifugal switch
affair. It's delicate, and a little tricky to get all back together if you
futz the disassembly.

I'd do the operation shaft-down, if I were doing it. I'm not sure what
"rotor up" means, anyway, since the rotor is inside the motor and occupies
pretty much the full length. Did you mean "shaft up"? If so, I'd recommend
starting shaft-down.

LLoyd

I drilled a 1" hole in the top of one of my work benches just for
doing motor work. Makes life much less exciting, and now also acts as
a place to place my bench block for driving out roll pins and such.

Gunner

If you are going to use that phrase then you should use
the full phrase of "**** Off and Die and Rot In A Ditch
and Get Eaten By Maggots and ****ed On and **** On By
a Dysenteric Elephant (but not necessarily in that order)."

Crash Street Kidd