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Peter Fairbrother March 31st 05 10:53 AM

turning copper
 
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother


Anthony March 31st 05 11:22 AM

Peter Fairbrother wrote in
:

Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed, but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it
dug in, and a negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably
work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as
possible. I'm turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat
it somehow if that would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much
tool pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,




Try a pcd (diamond) insert.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

tomcas March 31st 05 12:23 PM

Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


Use a constant flood of any kind of coolant/lubricant or it will gum up.

Ken Sterling March 31st 05 12:48 PM

Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother

Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.


Karl Townsend March 31st 05 01:00 PM

I turn a fair bit of copper to make electrodes for EDM...

I always use HSS, very sharp, 0 rake angle, mist set so heavy its almost
flood. Hi speed, low feed.

Karl


"Peter Fairbrother" wrote in message
...
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and
a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible.
I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother




WillR March 31st 05 03:59 PM

Ken Sterling wrote:


--=20
Peter Fairbrother

=20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=20
Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Proctologically Violated©® March 31st 05 04:38 PM

Whole or skim? Seriously--could make a diff!

Didn't someone around here once suggest freezing copper before turning it??
To stave off work hardening? Seemed like a neat idear.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message
...
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and
a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible.
I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother

Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.




[email protected] March 31st 05 05:09 PM


Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high

speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in,

and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens

too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as

possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if

that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much

tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother


Like the other guy said, 0 degrees rake, basically a flat top tool.
Any positive rake will hog in, as you've found out. I've turned a lot
of commutators and usually take off about .005" at the most with that
interrupted cut. I haven't had to use any coolant. I use HSS and use
a diamond hone on the tool to polish before using it. Feed slowly and
don't get in a hurry and the finish comes out just fine. A round-nose
tool helps, too. Make sure it's dead on center, too high or low is as
bad as having rake.

If you've got bucks and need the finest finish, use a diamond. I saw a
picture of a copper drum that was turned with a diamond for some
special optical purpose, looked like a mirror.

The only heat-treat possible with copper is to anneal it.

Stan


Ken Sterling March 31st 05 11:00 PM

Ken Sterling wrote:


--=20
Peter Fairbrother

=20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=20
Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.


Ted Edwards April 1st 05 12:01 AM

Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?


Use d-limonene for cutting fluid. Works a treat for copper and aluminum
alloys. Any of the more concentrated citrus cleaners will work if you
can't find the pure stuff.

I recently turned a commutator using it. I've turned many comutators
over the years and have never had one come out as nice as that one.

Ted

Peter Fairbrother April 1st 05 11:41 AM

wrote:

Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?


Like the other guy said, 0 degrees rake, basically a flat top tool.
Any positive rake will hog in, as you've found out. I've turned a lot
of commutators and usually take off about .005" at the most with that
interrupted cut. I haven't had to use any coolant. I use HSS and use
a diamond hone on the tool to polish before using it. Feed slowly and
don't get in a hurry and the finish comes out just fine. A round-nose
tool helps, too. Make sure it's dead on center, too high or low is as
bad as having rake.


Yesss!

I used:

sharp tool steel (HSS+) but no diamond honing, zero rake no breaker
(_actually_ a flat top tool, I just polished up a 15 degree clearance blank
on a fine wheel)

dead on center, fast speed, slow feed, small cut

milk (didn't have any d-limonene) fed on a soft paintbrush to limit mess and
smell when it goes off, the prospect of a suds tank full of rancid milk
didn't appeal

and it works great - lovely surface finish, like a mirror, very little force
used ...


.... and no hoggin, so I feel confident to turn the expensive (they aren't
actually expensive, but they have had a lot of work done on them) work
pieces.


Perhaps a little slow for quantity production, but perfect for my purposes.


Thanks very much all.


--
Peter Fairbrother



WillR April 14th 05 03:24 PM

Ken Sterling wrote:
Ken Sterling wrote:


--=3D20
Peter Fairbrother


=3D20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=3D20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=3D20=


Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=3D20
Will R.

=20
Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.
=20


Did a bit of work on those books. :-)

The software wasn't really up to it when he did the first book -- but it =

got better and so did he.


=2E..another lifetime I guess. His buddy Jack introduced us.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Ken Sterling April 15th 05 03:00 AM

Ken Sterling wrote:
Ken Sterling wrote:


--=3D20
Peter Fairbrother


=3D20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=3D20

So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=3D20=


Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=3D20
Will R.

=20
Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.
=20


Did a bit of work on those books. :-)

The software wasn't really up to it when he did the first book -- but it =

got better and so did he.


=2E..another lifetime I guess. His buddy Jack introduced us.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Great books just to have around for "enjoyment" reading... been
through mine dozens of times and it seems I learn more each time.
Well worth the bucks spent - for entertainment value alone :-)
Ken.



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