Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Peter Fairbrother
 
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Default turning copper

Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother

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Anthony
 
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Peter Fairbrother wrote in
:

Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed, but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it
dug in, and a negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably
work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as
possible. I'm turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat
it somehow if that would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much
tool pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,




Try a pcd (diamond) insert.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

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tomcas
 
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Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


Use a constant flood of any kind of coolant/lubricant or it will gum up.
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Ken Sterling
 
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Default

Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother

Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.

  #5   Report Post  
Karl Townsend
 
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I turn a fair bit of copper to make electrodes for EDM...

I always use HSS, very sharp, 0 rake angle, mist set so heavy its almost
flood. Hi speed, low feed.

Karl


"Peter Fairbrother" wrote in message
...
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and
a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible.
I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother





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WillR
 
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Default

Ken Sterling wrote:


--=20
Peter Fairbrother

=20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=20
Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
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Proctologically Violated©®
 
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Whole or skim? Seriously--could make a diff!

Didn't someone around here once suggest freezing copper before turning it??
To stave off work hardening? Seemed like a neat idear.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message
...
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high
speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in, and
a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as possible.
I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother

Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.



  #8   Report Post  
 
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Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?

I tried a medium positive rake, very sharp tool, fine feed, and high

speed,
but that broke the tool (and the expensive workpiece) when it dug in,

and a
negative rake doesn't cut, it just rubs (and probably work-hardens

too).

Lathe is about as tight as I can get it, overhangs as short as

possible. I'm
turning the soft state, but I could perhaps heat-treat it somehow if

that
would help.

I can't work-harden the piece first though. Neither can I use much

tool
pressure - it's a diffusion-brazed assembly of thin pieces.


Thanks,


--
Peter Fairbrother


Like the other guy said, 0 degrees rake, basically a flat top tool.
Any positive rake will hog in, as you've found out. I've turned a lot
of commutators and usually take off about .005" at the most with that
interrupted cut. I haven't had to use any coolant. I use HSS and use
a diamond hone on the tool to polish before using it. Feed slowly and
don't get in a hurry and the finish comes out just fine. A round-nose
tool helps, too. Make sure it's dead on center, too high or low is as
bad as having rake.

If you've got bucks and need the finest finish, use a diamond. I saw a
picture of a copper drum that was turned with a diamond for some
special optical purpose, looked like a mirror.

The only heat-treat possible with copper is to anneal it.

Stan

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Ken Sterling
 
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Ken Sterling wrote:


--=20
Peter Fairbrother

=20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=20
Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.

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Ted Edwards
 
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Peter Fairbrother wrote:
Any hints for turning pure copper?


Use d-limonene for cutting fluid. Works a treat for copper and aluminum
alloys. Any of the more concentrated citrus cleaners will work if you
can't find the pure stuff.

I recently turned a commutator using it. I've turned many comutators
over the years and have never had one come out as nice as that one.

Ted


  #12   Report Post  
WillR
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ken Sterling wrote:
Ken Sterling wrote:


--=3D20
Peter Fairbrother


=3D20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=3D20


So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=3D20=


Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=3D20
Will R.

=20
Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.
=20


Did a bit of work on those books. :-)

The software wasn't really up to it when he did the first book -- but it =

got better and so did he.


=2E..another lifetime I guess. His buddy Jack introduced us.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
  #13   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ken Sterling wrote:
Ken Sterling wrote:


--=3D20
Peter Fairbrother


=3D20
Guy Lautard recommended *milk*.... I've tried it, and it works nice.
Ken.
=3D20

So how do you know this Guy Lautard fellow - I have a copy of his=3D20=


Bedside reader here... Is that where you saw it?


--=3D20
Will R.

=20
Yup - one of the bedside readers.....
I've got 'em all and just keep re-reading them over and over -
maybe because I enjoy them or maybe because it just doesn't sink in
:-)
Ken.
=20


Did a bit of work on those books. :-)

The software wasn't really up to it when he did the first book -- but it =

got better and so did he.


=2E..another lifetime I guess. His buddy Jack introduced us.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Great books just to have around for "enjoyment" reading... been
through mine dozens of times and it seems I learn more each time.
Well worth the bucks spent - for entertainment value alone :-)
Ken.

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