Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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  #1   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Default Do I need an oiler/filter/regulator?

It's a filter/regulator. You don't really need an oiler unless you plan
to run air tools nonstop and don't want to bother oiling them manually.
I'd just use what you have.

No, this isn't "just suited for painting". Real painting takes a serious
air dryer, one which refrigerates the air. What you have is just for regular
use. - GWE

Ignoramus10062 wrote:
My compressor has this piece:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../03_Regulator/


It was included in the sale. Please forgive my extreme ignorance in
asking this question, but I am not sure what it does. It seems to be a
pressure regulator and perhaps air cleaner. Has an opening in the
bottom for a drain valve (I put in a ball valve there). Looks like it
is most suited for spray painting, which I won't do a lot of.

What appears to me, is that this piece seems to be better suited for
painting, and what I need is a filter/oiler/pressure regulator. Is
that right?

If so, which one would you recommend? I would like to buy something
nice.

i

  #2   Report Post  
JB
 
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Default

Just put a few drops of air tool oil in via the air hose connection.

Joe..


"Ignoramus10062" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:37:11 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:
It's a filter/regulator. You don't really need an oiler unless you plan
to run air tools nonstop and don't want to bother oiling them manually.
I'd just use what you have.


Hm, thanks. I am a little confused, I have an HF sander and its manual
says to use an oiler. It does not seem to have an oiling port of any
sort. I guess that I will look harder.

i

No, this isn't "just suited for painting". Real painting takes a serious
air dryer, one which refrigerates the air. What you have is just for
regular
use. - GWE

Ignoramus10062 wrote:
My compressor has this piece:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../03_Regulator/


It was included in the sale. Please forgive my extreme ignorance in
asking this question, but I am not sure what it does. It seems to be a
pressure regulator and perhaps air cleaner. Has an opening in the
bottom for a drain valve (I put in a ball valve there). Looks like it
is most suited for spray painting, which I won't do a lot of.

What appears to me, is that this piece seems to be better suited for
painting, and what I need is a filter/oiler/pressure regulator. Is
that right?

If so, which one would you recommend? I would like to buy something
nice.

i



--



  #3   Report Post  
Greg O
 
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Default

You need a regulator, a filter perhaps, but you do not need an oiler! If you
get heavy into air tools a drop or two of oil in the air fitting of the tool
is all you need. Why inject oil into your whole system? You may want to
paint someday but you air lines may be spitting out oil! Not good for
painting!!
Get a regulator and set it at 100 PSI, plenty pressure for general work.
Greg


  #4   Report Post  
Gerald Miller
 
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Default

On 28 Feb 2005 00:48:59 GMT, Ignoramus10062
wrote:


Hm, thanks. I am a little confused, I have an HF sander and its manual
says to use an oiler. It does not seem to have an oiling port of any
sort. I guess that I will look harder.

My $12 die grinder instruction sheet recommends two drops of oil in
the inlet daily rather than use an oiler
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
  #5   Report Post  
Bruce L. Bergman
 
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Default

On 28 Feb 2005 00:48:59 GMT, Ignoramus10062
wrote:

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:37:11 -0800, Grant Erwin wrote:
It's a filter/regulator. You don't really need an oiler unless you plan
to run air tools nonstop and don't want to bother oiling them manually.
I'd just use what you have.


Hm, thanks. I am a little confused, I have an HF sander and its manual
says to use an oiler. It does not seem to have an oiling port of any
sort. I guess that I will look harder.


For air tools without an inline oiler installed, you follow the tool
instructions (Wow, what a concept!) ;-0 to disconnect the air hose at
the tool and put 3 - 4 - 5 drops (whatever they call for) of air tool
oil in the air inlet QD fitting once a day, twice if you're working it
hard. Then reconnect the air line and go to work.

If you hook up a filter/regulator/lubricator in line with an air
outlet, it meters a bit of oil into the airflow past that point, you
adjust it for a drop every 1 - 2 minutes while the tool is running.
(Per the instructions.)

One HUGE problem - now all your hoses used past that lubrication
point now have a film of air tool oil inside them. If you ever try
using those hoses or that air source for blow-gun cleaning something
critical, or spray painting, the oil will carry through (doesn't take
much) and you just made a big fish-eyed mess of that paint.

If you are fastidious about having one set of hoses for air tools
with oil in them, and another set of hoses (a different color) for
painting and blow-guns without oil, that can work. But as a practical
matter it'll never work, because someone who either isn't clued in
about your system or just doesn't care (Pointy-Haired Boss, employees,
interns, SWMBO, kids, parents, neighbors) is going to screw it up.

Myself, I can put a few drops of oil in the tools by hand just as
easily. If I ever install a lubricator at home, it'll either be for a
piece of stationary equipment, or that air outlet and any oiled hoses
will be LOCKED UP between uses.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.


  #6   Report Post  
william_b_noble
 
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Default

a good idea is to either:
1. permanently affix a length of hose to each air tool, so it can get oily
inside and not matter, or
2. use different connectors (quick disconnect) for oil-air and dry clean air
hoses


One HUGE problem - now all your hoses used past that lubrication
point now have a film of air tool oil inside them. If you ever try
using those hoses or that air source for blow-gun cleaning something
critical, or spray painting, the oil will carry through (doesn't take
much) and you just made a big fish-eyed mess of that paint.

If you are fastidious about having one set of hoses for air tools
with oil in them, and another set of hoses (a different color) for
painting and blow-guns without oil, that can work. But as a practical
matter it'll never work, because someone who either isn't clued in
about your system or just doesn't care (Pointy-Haired Boss, employees,
interns, SWMBO, kids, parents, neighbors) is going to screw it up.

Myself, I can put a few drops of oil in the tools by hand just as
easily. If I ever install a lubricator at home, it'll either be for a
piece of stationary equipment, or that air outlet and any oiled hoses
will be LOCKED UP between uses.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.



  #7   Report Post  
Anthony
 
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Default

Ignoramus10062 wrote in news:cvtmmu
:

My compressor has this piece:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../03_Regulator/


It was included in the sale. Please forgive my extreme ignorance in
asking this question, but I am not sure what it does. It seems to be a
pressure regulator and perhaps air cleaner. Has an opening in the
bottom for a drain valve (I put in a ball valve there). Looks like it
is most suited for spray painting, which I won't do a lot of.

What appears to me, is that this piece seems to be better suited for
painting, and what I need is a filter/oiler/pressure regulator. Is
that right?

If so, which one would you recommend? I would like to buy something
nice.

i



Yes, that appears to be a filter for painting. I strongly suggest you
purchase a Parker 070 series FRL (Filter/Regulator/Lubricator) if you
will be using this with air tools. This Parker unit will be modularized,
the oiler can be filled safely without shutting off the compressed air,
and the full kit comes with a lock-out type shut off/pressure dump valve.
Mounts are sold separately, but are not expensive. You should be able to
get the whole set-up for $200 retail. This is a very durable metal bowl
type FRL, not the plastic stuff normally found.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

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  #8   Report Post  
Tim Killian
 
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You can put an oiler at the tool itself:

http://www.jackxchange.com/products/3000.cfm

Just remember to fill it every 3 months or so.

Ignoramus10062 wrote:

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:37:11 -0800, Grant Erwin wrote:

It's a filter/regulator. You don't really need an oiler unless you plan
to run air tools nonstop and don't want to bother oiling them manually.
I'd just use what you have.



Hm, thanks. I am a little confused, I have an HF sander and its manual
says to use an oiler. It does not seem to have an oiling port of any
sort. I guess that I will look harder.

i


No, this isn't "just suited for painting". Real painting takes a serious
air dryer, one which refrigerates the air. What you have is just for regular
use. - GWE

Ignoramus10062 wrote:

My compressor has this piece:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../03_Regulator/


It was included in the sale. Please forgive my extreme ignorance in
asking this question, but I am not sure what it does. It seems to be a
pressure regulator and perhaps air cleaner. Has an opening in the
bottom for a drain valve (I put in a ball valve there). Looks like it
is most suited for spray painting, which I won't do a lot of.

What appears to me, is that this piece seems to be better suited for
painting, and what I need is a filter/oiler/pressure regulator. Is
that right?

If so, which one would you recommend? I would like to buy something
nice.

i





  #9   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Tim Killian wrote:
You can put an oiler at the tool itself:

http://www.jackxchange.com/products/3000.cfm

Just remember to fill it every 3 months or so.

This is the sort I use, I have a male quick connect coupler on one end
and a female on the other. My air tools all have short whip hoses, all
the instructions say not to directly connect fittings right to the
tool. This way I can use the same hose for air tools as for spray
painting with no oil contamination. If I need a little more
flexibility, I can just add oil directly to the tool whip and skip
attaching the oiler. You have to be careful with what oilers you do
buy, some of the sort that HF carries leak, badly. Other brands that
look identical, don't.

Stan

  #10   Report Post  
B.B.
 
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Default

In article ,
Ignoramus12015 wrote:

On 1 Mar 2005 10:04:28 -0800, wrote:

Tim Killian wrote:
You can put an oiler at the tool itself:

http://www.jackxchange.com/products/3000.cfm

Just remember to fill it every 3 months or so.

This is the sort I use, I have a male quick connect coupler on one end
and a female on the other. My air tools all have short whip hoses, all
the instructions say not to directly connect fittings right to the
tool. This way I can use the same hose for air tools as for spray
painting with no oil contamination. If I need a little more
flexibility, I can just add oil directly to the tool whip and skip
attaching the oiler. You have to be careful with what oilers you do
buy, some of the sort that HF carries leak, badly. Other brands that
look identical, don't.


Where do you buy those whip hoses?

i


I've seen 'em at Sears and WalMart. I have one of those in-line
plastic oilers like the link above lying around but never liked it--put
out way too much oil for continuous use.
So, I had an old QC that the balls fell out of (abused badly) and I
mounted the overactive oiler to the wall, stuck on that QC, and when I
needed to oil an air tool I just held the trigger and pushed it into the
broken QC for a couple of seconds. The rush of oily air lubed
everything and blew through any crud that might have gotten in there.
Worked very well.
If you do that, mount the QC either horizontally or even pointed down
a bit so dust doesn't collect in it.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/
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