I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the maker.
My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

Karl Vorwerk wrote:

I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before

Regardless of your skill, most plastics loose considerable
strength each cycle of melting and cooling. The best weld
in the world wouldn't be nearly as strong as the original
intact part. Don't feel bad.


and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the maker.
My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

Only a thought........What if you drilled a hole in the gear, cut a little
slot from this hole to the outer edge of the gear where the tooth broke off
and then make up a piece in a O= shape. Surely this would have some
mechanical strength to it.

Best of luck

In article ,
"Skip" wrote:

Only a thought........What if you drilled a hole in the gear, cut a little
slot from this hole to the outer edge of the gear where the tooth broke off
and then make up a piece in a O= shape. Surely this would have some
mechanical strength to it.

Why not just drill a couple of holes where the tooth was and insert a
couple of brass pins, shape to fit. One brass 'tooth' against a steel
gear should work.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 10:55:44 GMT, "Karl Vorwerk"
wrote:

I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the maker.
My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

Somewhat similar problem with a nylon gear mounted on a 7/16 hex
shaft, any loading and the gear would jump a flat. Solution: I took a
cheap stamped hex wrench and trimmed it to fit within the rim of the
gear, then drilled and countersunk the gear and drilled and tapped the
wrench and bolted them together with 8-32 FH bolts well secured with
loctite. Works great now! Everybody thinks I'm cheap.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I would go here and see if I could find a stock gear and modify it as
necessary to replace your broken gear.

http://www.martinsprocket.com/

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"Karl Vorwerk" wrote in message
...
I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some
nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to
a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too
much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken
so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the
maker.
My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

Thanks for the ideas. I'll try some sort of metal insert, pins or something.
There's not enough meat on the gear to just insert pins. Nice to know that
about plastic welding. The gear is on the first shredder bar. It's very
proprietary looking: hex hole, acts as the shaft in the bearing and is
stacked with the gear to drive the second bar. Sorry I don't know what 2
stacked gears molded together are called. It's like a step pulley.
Thanks
Karl

"Karl Vorwerk" wrote in message
...
I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the
maker. My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

In article ,
Karl Vorwerk wrote:
Thanks for the ideas. I'll try some sort of metal insert, pins or something.
There's not enough meat on the gear to just insert pins. Nice to know that
about plastic welding. The gear is on the first shredder bar. It's very
proprietary looking: hex hole, acts as the shaft in the bearing and is
stacked with the gear to drive the second bar. Sorry I don't know what 2
stacked gears molded together are called. It's like a step pulley.

Is there a chance that you can find the diametrical pitch of the
gear and get some gear tooth cutters to fit? You may need to get two,
as each cutter covers a limited range of tooth counts, and unless both
fall within the same range you'll need two.

And -- you'll need a dividing head as well, to index the gear
for tooth milling.

Then -- turn two blanks from brass or aluminum -- one with the
bearing features needed, and a boss on which the other can be made a
shrink fit. After the shrink fit, drill and ream on the joining line
and drive in a dowel pin or tap and run in a screw to keep that shrink
fit from slipping under load.

I think that brass (or even better bronze) would probably be the
better choice of material, though if nylon almost did it, aluminum will
probably hold for a while at least.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I wish I had the hardware to do it. MY main metalworking tools are a drill
press and an angle grinder. The angle grinder is getting more and more
tempting as I try to fix it and fail.
Karl

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Karl Vorwerk wrote:
Thanks for the ideas. I'll try some sort of metal insert, pins or
something.
There's not enough meat on the gear to just insert pins. Nice to know that
about plastic welding. The gear is on the first shredder bar. It's very
proprietary looking: hex hole, acts as the shaft in the bearing and is
stacked with the gear to drive the second bar. Sorry I don't know what 2
stacked gears molded together are called. It's like a step pulley.

Is there a chance that you can find the diametrical pitch of the
gear and get some gear tooth cutters to fit? You may need to get two,
as each cutter covers a limited range of tooth counts, and unless both
fall within the same range you'll need two.

And -- you'll need a dividing head as well, to index the gear
for tooth milling.

Then -- turn two blanks from brass or aluminum -- one with the
bearing features needed, and a boss on which the other can be made a
shrink fit. After the shrink fit, drill and ream on the joining line
and drive in a dowel pin or tap and run in a screw to keep that shrink
fit from slipping under load.

I think that brass (or even better bronze) would probably be the
better choice of material, though if nylon almost did it, aluminum will
probably hold for a while at least.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Karl Vorwerk wrote:

I tried repairing the missing tooth on the nylon gear by welding some nylon
in place and then filed it to shape. It broke at the weld possibly due to a
lack of skill on my part as I've never welded plastic before and used a
piece of metal heated by my mapp gas torch to melt it. I'm considering
making a metal tooth screwed to a backing plate inside the gear rim. The
nylon gear is acting against a steel gear so I doubt it will cause too much
damage if it's a little off. The shredder was free because it was broken so
no great loss if I can't fix it. You can't buy a repair part from the maker.
My friend already tried.
Thanks
Karl

Good luck with that.

At least you have a realistic outlook for the results. Best bet would
be to find a pair of metal gears that you can graft in, in place of the
metal-plastic set.

I have spent time in a dumpster that was literally full of shredders
(and some other stuff, to be truthful) and there was not one shredder
there that was not because of a stripped plastic gear. At that time, it
would have helped if the yobbo's I was working with had not been feeding
the GD shredder pizza boxes and rubber gloves, but that's cause, effect
was the same.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

In article ,
Karl Vorwerk wrote:
I wish I had the hardware to do it. MY main metalworking tools are a drill
press and an angle grinder. The angle grinder is getting more and more
tempting as I try to fix it and fail.

Of course, the traditional answer here is "But that gives you
the excuse to buy the tools. :-)"

The necessary tools *can* be bought cheaply -- but not quickly,
and you have to *want* to be able to do this sort of thing yourself.

I'm interested in what kind of paper shredder would use a Nylon
gear in the first place. I've worked on two (I own one of them), and
both used a heavy-duty chain drive with all metal gears. No use of
Nylon anywere in there. And there are serious amounts of force
involved, especially in a high-security shredder such as the one which I
fixed at work -- not the one which I have. :-) The high-security one
cuts paper to strips about 1/32" wide, and cuts the strips into 1/4"
long segments.

Of course, one of them I was not able to fix without external
supplies. Someone fed it a bundle of papers with a binder clasp on it.
The binder clasp messed up quite a few of the cutters on both (meshing)
cutter bars. (It also made a *lot* of noise when it failed, as the
chain drive snapped at one link. It was powered by about a 3HP 3-phase
motor.

My own came from a surplus sale, and was producing continuous
strips about 1/4" wide. But examination of it showed that the cutter
bars could be re-stacked to produce cuts 1/3 as wide, or about 1/12". I
did that, and one side effect was to reduce the number of pages which
could be cut at once without stalling the motor. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

If only I had the cash and space. It's a Fellowes DM65C. I'm glad I didn't
pay for it. I know what brand I won't be buying too.
Karl


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Karl Vorwerk wrote:
I wish I had the hardware to do it. MY main metalworking tools are a drill
press and an angle grinder. The angle grinder is getting more and more
tempting as I try to fix it and fail.

Of course, the traditional answer here is "But that gives you
the excuse to buy the tools. :-)"

The necessary tools *can* be bought cheaply -- but not quickly,
and you have to *want* to be able to do this sort of thing yourself.

I'm interested in what kind of paper shredder would use a Nylon
gear in the first place. I've worked on two (I own one of them), and
both used a heavy-duty chain drive with all metal gears. No use of
Nylon anywere in there. And there are serious amounts of force
involved, especially in a high-security shredder such as the one which I
fixed at work -- not the one which I have. :-) The high-security one
cuts paper to strips about 1/32" wide, and cuts the strips into 1/4"
long segments.

Of course, one of them I was not able to fix without external
supplies. Someone fed it a bundle of papers with a binder clasp on it.
The binder clasp messed up quite a few of the cutters on both (meshing)
cutter bars. (It also made a *lot* of noise when it failed, as the
chain drive snapped at one link. It was powered by about a 3HP 3-phase
motor.

My own came from a surplus sale, and was producing continuous
strips about 1/4" wide. But examination of it showed that the cutter
bars could be re-stacked to produce cuts 1/3 as wide, or about 1/12". I
did that, and one side effect was to reduce the number of pages which
could be cut at once without stalling the motor. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 12:54:21 GMT, "Karl Vorwerk"
wrote:

If only I had the cash and space. It's a Fellowes DM65C. I'm glad I didn't
pay for it. I know what brand I won't be buying too.
Karl

Are you sure that's not a DM-6C Fellowes?

Mine's chopped up a lot of junk mail into confetti with a rather
satisfying crunching noise and never given me a lick of trouble, save
for the thermal cutout stopping it when I have a very tall pile to
shred. It's only rated for intermittent duty, not the ENRON
accounting offices...

But then again I'm careful not to feed it more than it can chew,
including paperclips or small tree branches. Or as in the warning
pictograms on the top, no left hands or neckties either. ;-)

Anything will break if abused.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 12:54:21 GMT, "Karl Vorwerk"
wrote:

If only I had the cash and space. It's a Fellowes DM65C. I'm glad I didn't
pay for it. I know what brand I won't be buying too.
Karl


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

I'm interested in what kind of paper shredder would use a Nylon
gear in the first place. I've worked on two (I own one of them), and
Mine, with the nylon gear jumping on the hex shaft is a General
Binding 55X. It bogs down on more than a couple sheets of copy paper,
but considering I paid a quarter for it, I'm not too disappointed.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

It's a dm65c. It says so on top. I will say I don't actually know what was
being shoved through it at the time. I think I'll email my friend and ask.
Do you know what it's rated for? My friend said staples, credit cards and 6
or 7 sheets of paper.
Karl

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 12:54:21 GMT, "Karl Vorwerk"
wrote:

If only I had the cash and space. It's a Fellowes DM65C. I'm glad I didn't
pay for it. I know what brand I won't be buying too.
Karl

Are you sure that's not a DM-6C Fellowes?

Mine's chopped up a lot of junk mail into confetti with a rather
satisfying crunching noise and never given me a lick of trouble, save
for the thermal cutout stopping it when I have a very tall pile to
shred. It's only rated for intermittent duty, not the ENRON
accounting offices...

But then again I'm careful not to feed it more than it can chew,
including paperclips or small tree branches. Or as in the warning
pictograms on the top, no left hands or neckties either. ;-)

Anything will break if abused.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.