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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Epoxy paint on shop floor---Any good?
I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they? Best |
#2
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I doubt there is any big difference -- industrial products usually have
less voc to meet OSHA and EPA regulations. The most important factor is the prep work. The concrete has to be dry, and you need to acid etch and rinse per the instructions. My shop floor has two coats of the Home Depot Rustoleum epoxy, and it has held up quite well over the past two years. wrote: I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they? Best |
#3
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wrote: I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they? Best Best benefit is increasing light in the shop. If you choose a light or white color, it will seem like the shop is twice as bright. Second benefit is ease of clean-up. When you are looking at sweeping chips and mopping spills, it works great. The negative is that it WILL flake in areas over time. No matter how good the prep, there will be spots of reduced adherence. Generally, I see this in areas where water has leaked onto the floor and sat for a while. I have an auto shop in the adjacent bay and sometimes they use too much water to clean their floors...leaks under the wall on weekends and forms some puddles on my floor (yea, complained to the landlord and such but only superficial improvements). Where you will probably see the most wear. however, is the traffic areas in front of machines. Any chips that get on the floor eventually grind the coating away under your feet. You can probably alleviate some of this as well as fatigue by using rubber horse stall mats or similar directly in front of machines. I'd re-coat the place with white again in a second. It's getting a little scabby after 7 years but it's now too hard to work around the machines to do a proper prep. I might try spotting in the worst areas though. As others have said PREP PREP PREP is everything. Rent a floor buffer with a scratch pad if you need to. Etch WELL. Rinse acid WELL. Dry BEYOND WELL. The floor itself isn't that slippery. However, when sawdust or (especially) plastic chips get under your feet, it changes from no problem to an ice rink. I suppose we should be sweeping before anything piles up anyway but just a warning in case you're the kind who puts off cleaning chores. I used 1 part water based by the way, not the 2 part. I think I'd go with the 2 part in the next go-round. Koz |
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