I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and
is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they?

Best

wrote in message ...
I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium
sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more
and
is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are
they?

Best


I have no experience with the particular product you bought, but I've used
Pittsburgh epoxy floor paint a few times. Wonderful product, but very
slippery when wet. If your shop/garage is where it's subject to any water,
it's wise to stir in some fine sand before applying the paint to provide
some tooth. I suggest something around 60 mesh. I've used 30 and it's a
bit too coarse--makes it hard to do any cleaning aside from just a broom.

Make sure you have no oil spots on the concrete. If you do, they can be
removed totally by soaking the spots in solvent (Stoddard, or mineral
spirits) and then covering the spot completely with kitty litter (Oil-Dri),
which should then be soaked with solvent. Let the entire mess dry
naturally. The evaporation of the solvent liquefies the oil and draws it
out as the solvent evaporates. You can clean even old, heavily soaked spots
that way, although it may take two attempts. Works great, and no hard work.

Etching with HCL (muriatic acid, or hydrochloric acid) diluted in water is
almost a must if you expect good adhesion. Dry well before
painting------and make sure you concrete has aged long enough that it's not
still quite alkaline. That, too, is a recipe for failure.

The only negative to painting a shop floor is if you weld there. The
spatter burns the painted surface, leaving it rather ugly.

Good luck-

Harold

Provided you prep the floor correctly, and the floor material is at
least 68° during application and cure, it's great. Be prepared to move
out for 2-3 days while it cures.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

wrote:
I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and
is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they?

Best

wrote:
I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more and
is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are they?


DO NOT BUY RUSTOLEUM!!!!! it peeled off my etched floor in minutes


ben moore industrial coatings they make a single and 2 part epoxy. the
single is good, nothing will take it up gas, oil coolant. the 2 part is
bulletproof, can't smash it with a hammer




Best

floor paint a few times. Wonderful product, but very
slippery when wet. If your shop/garage is where it's subject to any water,
it's wise to stir in some fine sand before applying the paint to provide
some tooth. I suggest something around 60 mesh. I've used 30 and it's a
bit too coarse--makes it hard to do any cleaning aside from just a broom.


actually I've read that it is best to sprinkle it on afterward, that way
the paint is stuck to the floor, not the sand

"yourname" wrote in message
...
floor paint a few times. Wonderful product, but very
slippery when wet. If your shop/garage is where it's subject to any
water,
it's wise to stir in some fine sand before applying the paint to provide
some tooth. I suggest something around 60 mesh. I've used 30 and it's
a
bit too coarse--makes it hard to do any cleaning aside from just a
broom.


actually I've read that it is best to sprinkle it on afterward, that way
the paint is stuck to the floor, not the sand

How do you go about sprinkling sand on a large floor without standing on it?
Could prove challenging for a large room, yes? Not only can you not reach
all of it, but if it's epoxy on a warm day, the area first applied may
already be set- so the sand doesn't stick, even if you could apply it.
Nope----what you read sucks.

Paint stuck to the floor, not the sand? You're using WAY too much sand.
It requires very little when done properly.

Putting the sand *in* the paint is simple, and works fine----been
there--done that. Anything less is just creating more work and yielding
poorer results. It may not sound right, but it works, and very well.
You *want* it in the paint, so it stays put. The slight hump it creates is
more than adequate for preventing falls, and makes cleaning the floor
somewhat easier. Too much tooth isn't desirable. It shreds anything you
use to do your cleaning, including your vacuum wand, if you use one.

Harold

Around here in S.E. MI my local retailers carry the Rust-oleum
Epoxy-shield garage floor version and a Epoxy-shield basement floor
version.

I have the prototype version of the Tan Rust-oleum garage Epoxy-coat(I
bought the product at a flea market for $20 a gallon and needed to find
more and was instructed to go to Lowes or H.D and look for the
Rust-oleum brand.) and I have to say that it has stood up well to the
abuse that I have put it through so far! The $50 a gallon price tag was
a little hard to swallow when I needed to get more, but, I'm happy now.
OH, and it didn't go as far as the instructions stated it would. I
needed to apply 3 gallons fairly sparingly to cover an 18'x20' garage
floor. If you want your floor to look some-what smooth without most of
the texture of the concrete you may need more. And, YES, I found out
the hard way that it can be and is slipery when wet! Call a sand blast
supply house for the different types/textures of grits that can be
applied during the installation of your epoxy floor(this is what the
pro's use/do). The Epoxy coating that I bought, had a bag of what
Rust-oleum calles terazzo flakes(dried multi-colored chips of the very
same epoxy that is being applied) that is to help aid with the
slippery-ness when wet, I didn't like the effect and did not apply it,
because I felt that it made the floor to "busy" and if you dropped
anything small(screw, spring) you would have a hard time finding it.

I had a couple of heavily oiled down spots that I had used Castrol
super clean to help to try to disolve the oil spots, I scrubbed my ass
off. So far the Epoxy hasn't peeled or flaked yet over those areas. The
kits that I had bought had an instruction video that was supplied and
had warned me not to pre-etch the floor with a muratic acid type
solution, but I did anyways, and then neutralized it with baking soda,
then applied the supplied formula.
Did you buy a kit type form that includes an etching agent? IF you
wish, I still have the instruction video from the rust-oleum Epoxy coat
floor finish that came with the epoxy that I put down around here, if
you pay for the shipping, I'll mail it to you, I'll even pitch in the
flakes that I didn't use. Tracy


wrote:
I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint.
Rustolium sells
two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint.
I
purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost
more and
is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good
are they?

Best

-

How do you go about sprinkling sand on a large floor without standing on it?
Could prove challenging for a large room, yes? Not only can you not reach
all of it


one would assume you do while painting

I wouldn't bother anyway, unless you have a polished floor

wrote in message ...
| I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium
sells
| two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
| purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more
and
| is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
| sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are
they?
|
| Best

I work in an extremely large building, with one of the largest concrete
floors in the world. There is a sealer of some kind on the concrete, but
nothing more than that. If I could afford it, I'd rather go that route
instead of painting something that I'm likely to tear up with hot slag,
dragging metal, or whatever solvent I spill at the time. Does anyone know
what that stuff might be and what the options are?

I work in an extremely large building, with one of the largest concrete
floors in the world. There is a sealer of some kind on the concrete, but
nothing more than that. If I could afford it, I'd rather go that route
instead of painting something that I'm likely to tear up with hot slag,
dragging metal, or whatever solvent I spill at the time. Does anyone know
what that stuff might be and what the options are?



2 part epoxy is really really hard. unless you are welding full time
nothing will touch it. I TIG weld over single part epoxy and have not
'noticed' any burn marks.

do not confuse any of the epoxies with 'garage floor paint' or any
alklyd[sp?] enamel
I put the single part on my old garage floor, 1987. brake fluid,
gasoline oil, cutting fluid etc etc etc. nothing takes it up. it will
abrade away.

the 2 part is just unreal.

the benjamin moore industrial coatings was IIRC less than 40 a gallon, 2
gallon sets.

Good point in the sealers. You don't get the "color" but it makes
cleaning (sweeping) easy and spills don't stain. Gallons or 5s are
available at any janitorial supply house. Usually, you need a buffer to
get a good finish but it goes on like watered down "elmers" white glue.
Easy to touch up and easy to strip off should one change their mind and
want to go with other coatings.

Koz

carl mciver wrote:

wrote in message ...
| I am going to paint my shop (garage) floor with epoxy paint. Rustolium
sells
| two grades, "Garage floor paint epoxy " and "Industrial epoxy" paint. I
| purchased the "Industrial" quality on the assumption that if it cost more
and
| is more difficult to apply that it must be better. Does anyone have
| sugestions/precautions/advice on applying these products? How good are
they?
|
| Best

I work in an extremely large building, with one of the largest concrete
floors in the world. There is a sealer of some kind on the concrete, but
nothing more than that. If I could afford it, I'd rather go that route
instead of painting something that I'm likely to tear up with hot slag,
dragging metal, or whatever solvent I spill at the time. Does anyone know
what that stuff might be and what the options are?

Harold & Susan Vordos wrote:

Make sure you have no oil spots on the concrete. If you do, they can be
removed totally by soaking the spots in solvent (Stoddard, or mineral
spirits) and then covering the spot completely with kitty litter (Oil-Dri),
which should then be soaked with solvent. Let the entire mess dry
naturally. The evaporation of the solvent liquefies the oil and draws it
out as the solvent evaporates. You can clean even old, heavily soaked spots
that way, although it may take two attempts. Works great, and no hard work.

Works very well but I save the sawdust from my tablesaw and beltsander.
I found that this works as well as kitty litter and is free. :-)

Ted

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 22:03:17 GMT, Ted Edwards wrote:

Works very well but I save the sawdust from my tablesaw and beltsander.
I found that this works as well as kitty litter and is free. :-)

Keep in mind that some sawdust is toxic. Black walnut, for instance,
is bad for critters.

Keep in mind that some sawdust is toxic. Black walnut, for instance,
is bad for critters.

Also a fire hazard when soaked with oil.

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 22:03:17 GMT, Ted Edwards wrote:

Works very well but I save the sawdust from my tablesaw and beltsander.
I found that this works as well as kitty litter and is free. :-)


Keep in mind that some sawdust is toxic. Black walnut, for instance,
is bad for critters.

Walnut will kill horses. It dissolves the hoof for some reason and the end is near.

Caution in giving friends shavings for the horses.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder