Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default wanted, 12 or 14" lathe, or some help and ideas

I need a smaller lathe for doing a project. Or I could use some help.

I am trying to turn down some hardwood square stock mounted on a soft
wood dowel. The turning has to be somewhat close, much moreso then on
a wood lathe.

I was told of some guys mounting a trim router up in the tool post of a
larger lathe and he recommended I use a 14" or larger lathe. Then
running the shaft through the through hole, you take the foot down to
the finished dowel diameter (the shaft itself is already at final
dimensions).

I had thought about making a jig for a 12" disc sander (which I would
have to buy also), to take the hole foot down at once. I do have a
4x36" belt sander with a disc attachment and was going to try a
miniture on that.

I could really use some experts help here, this is not a typical wood
working issue as the tolerances need to be fairly close or the arrow
wont be straight or round.

Here is a link to some photo's showing you what I need to turn, how I
am mounting the square stock on the round dowels, and some footed
arrows finished by hand. The pics are on the "foot" link.

http://community.webshots.com/user/lilhunter007

I do have that belts disc sander combo, a 12" band saw, 10" table saw,
a couple routers and the router table pictured, and basic tools from
there.

Again any help, ideas, or if you have a lathe that would be great!
Thanks
Dan
Fairbanks Alaska

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Jim Levie
 
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On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 19:24:30 -0800, dawn-dan wrote:

I need a smaller lathe for doing a project. Or I could use some help.

I am trying to turn down some hardwood square stock mounted on a soft
wood dowel. The turning has to be somewhat close, much moreso then on
a wood lathe.

Using a series of drop fingers mounted on a rod behind the work you should
be able to hold any desired degree of accuracy on a wood lathe. And you
could certainly hold better tolerances that changes in humidity will
produce in the wood. The problem in wood turning is not so much of a
problem of working to close tolerances as it is a matter of knowing when
you are there. With a drop fingers you know that you've reached the
correct diameter when the finger drops.

--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

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Roger Shoaf
 
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It is my understanding that when they make dowels they drive it through a
hole in a metal plate. I think I might try this approach here. Sand the
square material close and then drive it through the dowel plate:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=DP

There is also a link to a wood working article at that site.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


wrote in message
ups.com...
I need a smaller lathe for doing a project. Or I could use some help.

I am trying to turn down some hardwood square stock mounted on a soft
wood dowel. The turning has to be somewhat close, much moreso then on
a wood lathe.

I was told of some guys mounting a trim router up in the tool post of a
larger lathe and he recommended I use a 14" or larger lathe. Then
running the shaft through the through hole, you take the foot down to
the finished dowel diameter (the shaft itself is already at final
dimensions).

I had thought about making a jig for a 12" disc sander (which I would
have to buy also), to take the hole foot down at once. I do have a
4x36" belt sander with a disc attachment and was going to try a
miniture on that.

I could really use some experts help here, this is not a typical wood
working issue as the tolerances need to be fairly close or the arrow
wont be straight or round.

Here is a link to some photo's showing you what I need to turn, how I
am mounting the square stock on the round dowels, and some footed
arrows finished by hand. The pics are on the "foot" link.

http://community.webshots.com/user/lilhunter007

I do have that belts disc sander combo, a 12" band saw, 10" table saw,
a couple routers and the router table pictured, and basic tools from
there.

Again any help, ideas, or if you have a lathe that would be great!
Thanks
Dan
Fairbanks Alaska



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Ken Grunke
 
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wrote:
I need a smaller lathe for doing a project. Or I could use some help.

I am trying to turn down some hardwood square stock mounted on a soft
wood dowel. The turning has to be somewhat close, much moreso then on
a wood lathe.

I was told of some guys mounting a trim router up in the tool post of a
larger lathe and he recommended I use a 14" or larger lathe. Then
running the shaft through the through hole, you take the foot down to
the finished dowel diameter (the shaft itself is already at final
dimensions).

I had thought about making a jig for a 12" disc sander (which I would
have to buy also), to take the hole foot down at once. I do have a
4x36" belt sander with a disc attachment and was going to try a
miniture on that.

I could really use some experts help here, this is not a typical wood
working issue as the tolerances need to be fairly close or the arrow
wont be straight or round.


If you are tooling up for some kind of production, I'd find a small
cheap wood lathe with a spindle thru-hole big enough to take the arrow.

If the arrows are 3/8" or smaller, no problem--a Jet mini lathe would be
a good choice, or even a Harbor Freight cheepie--but you need to make
sure the tailstock is accurately aligned, or you could fabricate a
dedicated tailstock for the job from hardwood.

Then I'd try a trim router mounted on a heavy base that slides across
the lathe bed, guided by the center gap. I say heavy, I mean made up of
solid, beefy chunks of steel for stability--gravity holds it down, and
you manually move it across the bed or rig up a cable drive or lead screw.

Maybe a beading cutter in the trimmer, with a size just a bit bigger
than the shaft size, would be best--with the shaft rotating under the
lathe's power. I wouldn't try this in one pass, the router's base should
have some type of cross-bed adjustment.

The whole idea is to let high speed do the work, and minimize the
cutting forces which would spring the arrow shaft.

Ken Grunke

--
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Tim Miller
 
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you can try azbilliards forum they have a section for cue builders.
I'm sure they would be happy to help.
http://www.azbilliards.com/vbulletin...splay.php?f=22

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Hey Gang,

These are NOT pool cues. The dowels are soft wood, finished diameter
is 23/64ths or 11/32 depending on arrow shafts I am footing.

Thanks for the AZ billiards forum, already tried that move. Every
single one of them recommended a machinist lathe. Cue lathes cost in
the neighborhood of 3k bucks, to much for what I am doing here.

Jim,

I really dont know what drop fingers are, would they be long enough to
come down in sections along a 8" section?

Ken,

I see what you are saying with the tool post on the wood lathe, though
I dont quite see how to get there. A wood lathe with the trim router
would be great if I can get accurate in and out depth adjustments.

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I forgot to add, yes the steel plate will work running your stock
through consecutively smaller holes, for doing dowels. I only need to
turn down the last 8"es or so, the rest is already finished so I have
no way to keep from ruining them using this method. The few good ones
would not off set the man bads.

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Jim Levie
 
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 10:55:38 -0800, dawn-dan wrote:

Jim,

I really dont know what drop fingers are, would they be long enough to
come down in sections along a 8" section?

I'll try to describe what those are... You mount a rod behind the work
that has a series of fingers on it that are free to rotate. Each finger is
of such a length that when the part at that position is the correct
diameter the finger will just clear the work.

You start with all of the fingers above the work. As you turn down the
work each finger will drop as that part of the work reaches finish
diameter.

The other way to do this on a wood lathe would be with a pattern turning
attachment.

--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.

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Jim,

I will definatly keep that an option, the fingers with a pattern jig.
My experience with lathes is nil and most of what I've been digging
into is metal lathes.

The wood lathe would be nice mainly due to cost.

regarding the pattern jigs, do they hook up to all wood lathes? Or
would I need a larger wood lathe for this?



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ttt

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TTT....still keeping my eyes peeled for a used mini lathe. Something
in the 12 or 14" between center range.

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