Making custom power connectors -- PART NUMBER
 

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S

I will now look for it.

Found something already at

http://www.aattech.com/numbers/newpa...3199/s3170.htm

It is $40 at


http://www.remelectronics.com/Search...ist=1&sProduct
Code=004&sManufacturerAbbr=BEN

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

i

Should be much cheaper at the links we have provided.. Don't forget that you
want the mating connector...

"Rick" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S

I will now look for it.

Found something already at

http://www.aattech.com/numbers/newpa...3199/s3170.htm

It is $40 at



http://www.remelectronics.com/Search...ist=1&sProduct
Code=004&sManufacturerAbbr=BEN

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

i

Should be much cheaper at the links we have provided.. Don't forget that
you
want the mating connector...


But, after looking, maybe not : )

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

There is a frugal way of dealing with this. Simply obtain some of the gold
pins that fit inside the connector, solder them to your cable, add some small
heat shrink tube, and them manually mate the pins with the proper positions on
the connector. With a little scrounging, you can go one step further and find
an empty shell to act as a strain relief, then nobody will even know that you
don't have the proper connector in place.

If you can't find that stuff on some surplus junk somewhere, I will check
in some old drawers at work, we once used that style connector on traffic signal
controllers.

Vaughn



i

Rick wrote:

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S

I will now look for it.

Found something already at

http://www.aattech.com/numbers/newpa...3199/s3170.htm

It is $40 at


http://www.remelectronics.com/Search...ist=1&sProduct
Code=004&sManufacturerAbbr=BEN

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

i

Should be much cheaper at the links we have provided.. Don't forget that you
want the mating connector...


The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the
Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the
catalog at home.


John

I "think" what you have is an LPA for hooking to a GRT transmitter. The
civil version anyway. Uses a 4cx150 tube? If so I think I still have a
drawer full of the connectors. You threw me off with the 3 pin thing. We
don't use em anymore cause we went solid state LPA. Anyway .. show me a pic
I can compare as the mil part numbers don't always cross over to ours. Same
function different number.
Glenn
"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S

I will now look for it.

Found something already at

http://www.aattech.com/numbers/newpa...3199/s3170.htm

It is $40 at


http://www.remelectronics.com/Search...cturerAbbr=BEN

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

i

Tom Quackenbush wrote:

john wrote:

Ignoramus25901 wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S
snip


The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the
Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the
catalog at home.

97-3106A-28-20S :

http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...KU=91F8379&N=4

R,
Tom Q.
Remove bogusinfo to reply.




http://www.ittcannon.com/media/pdf/catalogs/5015.PDF



http://www.ittcannon.com/products/DataSheet.asp




that should be the connector


John

Nope that is definately a different beastie than I was thinking of. Ours
had a MIL numer that starts with AM something but I never remember those
things :) I think I do have some knobs that will fit it but no shafts. The
knobs fit a 1/4" shaft and look like that anyway. Have 2 small allen head
screws to fasten them on.
Sorry bout the mix up. Those are newer than the ones we replaced with the
motorola amps.
Will be monday before I can look for the knobs.
Glenn

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 20:44:51 -0800, Glenn wrote:
I "think" what you have is an LPA for hooking to a GRT transmitter. The
civil version anyway. Uses a 4cx150 tube? If so I think I still have a
drawer full of the connectors. You threw me off with the 3 pin thing.
We
don't use em anymore cause we went solid state LPA. Anyway .. show me a
pic
I can compare as the mil part numbers don't always cross over to ours.
Same
function different number.

Thanks. If you have a meter selection knob, I will be delighted. I
have one broken one. I could obviously pay for one. That's the knob
under the LCD display. See

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/HarrisAmplifier/

This thing is funny, to power is up, besides hooking up the power
cable, I also need to apply 13.7 volts between connector 1 and 7 of
the serial port connector. See one of the pictures of this unit up and
running.

i

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S

I will now look for it.

Found something already at

http://www.aattech.com/numbers/newpa...3199/s3170.htm

It is $40 at


http://www.remelectronics.com/Search...cturerAbbr=BEN

Thanks to all, so far... Will look some more. Maybe for $40 I can
simply change the connector.

i




--

Ignoramus25901 wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 04:00:18 GMT, Tom Quackenbush wrote:
john wrote:

Ignoramus25901 wrote in message
...

The part number of my connector is

MS3106A28-20S
snip


The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the
Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the
catalog at home.

97-3106A-28-20S :

http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...KU=91F8379&N=4

BEAUTIFUL, THANKS!

I am very happy. Turns out that in fact some of my units already have
connectors and data cables. Some do not, though, so I will need to buy
some. This seems to be a nice website that you mentioned. Thanks a
lot.

One unit has a knob broken, looks like I am in for a major ass reaming
by Harris. It is a multi-selector knob, selects from like 11
positions. I wish there was a way to simply reattach/mend its broken
stem, but it looks difficult as it is thin.

See

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/HarrisAmplifier/

This is obviously a picture of the one that is not broken.

i




You might be able to disassemble another switch ofthe same switch mfgr..
(not harris) and just replace the shaft without resoldering the wafers.

YOu have to match the series of the switch design and get the proper
number of swithc positions.

John

Take a couple pictures, any part numbers, and some basic dimensions into
your local electronics supplier (not Rat Shack, but you might get lucky!)
and get it fixed right. Replace the switch with new and eliminate all worry
about the subject. If not, post the pictures and whatnot and someone will
do a little bit of legwork and point you to a source if you can't find one
on the web, as there's a billion sources for multiposition, multipole,
stacked switches.
You'll expend more effort and resources trying to get it wrong than
getting it right.

"Ignoramus31471" wrote in message
...
| On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 22:51:35 -0500, john wrote:
|
|
| Ignoramus25901 wrote:
|
| On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 04:00:18 GMT, Tom Quackenbush
wrote:
| john wrote:
|
| Ignoramus25901 wrote in message
| ...
|
| The part number of my connector is
|
| MS3106A28-20S
| snip
|
|
| The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the
| Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the
| catalog at home.
|
| 97-3106A-28-20S :
|
|
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...rch/partDetail
..jsp?SKU=91F8379&N=4
|
| BEAUTIFUL, THANKS!
|
| I am very happy. Turns out that in fact some of my units already have
| connectors and data cables. Some do not, though, so I will need to buy
| some. This seems to be a nice website that you mentioned. Thanks a
| lot.
|
| One unit has a knob broken, looks like I am in for a major ass reaming
| by Harris. It is a multi-selector knob, selects from like 11
| positions. I wish there was a way to simply reattach/mend its broken
| stem, but it looks difficult as it is thin.
|
| See
|
| http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/HarrisAmplifier/
|
| This is obviously a picture of the one that is not broken.
|
| i
|
|
|
|
| You might be able to disassemble another switch ofthe same switch mfgr..
| (not harris) and just replace the shaft without resoldering the wafers.
|
| YOu have to match the series of the switch design and get the proper
| number of swithc positions.
|
| John
|
| thjanks for the tip
|
| i
|
| --